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Discussion starter · #121 · (Edited)
Just want to say “Thank you” great work!
I have read your complete post.. several times. I own a 2013 CRZ Premium “Canadian Version”
Seems like the first stage in doing a kswap is choosing the correct ECU and wiring harness?
Considering I own a 2013 you suggest to go with a 2012-2015 Canadian civic si ECU and wiring harness?
If I decide I would like to run a K20z3 or a K24a2 will I still run the 9th gen (2012-2015si) harness and ECU
Lastly can you explain the differences between the 06-11si harness and ECU versus the 2012-2015si Harness and ECU.
THe main thing is to see if your car chassis is Zf1 or Zf2. for Zf1 2007-11 si ecu and harness will be used. For zf2 2013-15 will be used. but i have seen 2013 zf1 modles too. So the simplest way is to see if your CR-Z has S+ button or not. IF it has, use 2013-15 ECU and wiring. If not use 2007-11
 
ITHe main thing is to see if your car chassis is Zf1 or Zf2. for Zf1 2007-11 si ecua nd harness will be used. For zf2 2013-15 will be used. but i have seen 2013 zf1 modles too. So the simplest way is to see if your CR-Z has S+ button or not. IF it has, use 2013-15 ECU and wiring. If not use 2007-11
Also Zf2 has a 49 pin connector at the ecu.


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Discussion starter · #123 · (Edited)
Also Zf2 has a 49 pin connector at the ecu.


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Yes thats also a nice point. Actually i am covering Zf2 k-swap in another build,there i have put this info.Its better if you read that and ask quaries there so that people of Zf2 build may benefit
 
Discussion starter · #126 ·
Thanks for the inspiration Nivek :) Car looks great! Your posts, pics, videos, etc are greatly appreciated!
Thanks a lot for appreciation. :)
Once the K-Swap video series guide is complete,i plan on building a k20 from bottom up and making near 700 hp K-RZ.
I can't decide should i make seperate post for that or post here
 
Discussion starter · #129 ·
Hi there. long time since i updated this build. Now i am back with detailed 'How to turbo a K-Swapped CRZ/Fit' In this i will go in details about designing manifolds, Intercooler pipings, Fueling, PCV system,water cooling for turbo etc etc
1st episode is already out. i plan on positing one episode per week
 
Discussion starter · #130 ·
Detailed wiring diagrams & ECU pinouts video is below. A lot people ask me regularly in Dms about these. So i thought why not make a video. You can zoom in too.
 
Wiring Grip A Of CRZ

The wait is over guys.Lets start the main wiring.
1st we will modify the CRZ ECU wiring A grip according to Civic Si Grip A diagram.Make sense right? Because now the ECU being used will be Civic Si,so all wiring need to according to Si and not the CRZ ECU.
Down is the easy table for making changes in CRZ ECU-A plug wiring. The one with 'X' wire are not needed any more and you can remove them. The other need to change the location within this plug.
Do note that CRZ ZF2 and Fit GE and GK have 49 pin ecu plugs not 44. So in those you will use 2013+ Si wiring and ECU.

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Now lets learn how to pin and de-pin.
I am holding the ECU-A white plug in my hand.1st you will need to unlock it by pushing a plastic tap.
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Now you will need a sharp tool to insert into pin location to lift the pin holding cap. You can use a dental pick, or a safety pin. I took a small flat head screw driver and grinded its tip to make it pointed,
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Or
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Lift the lock and pull the same pin from opposite side gently.
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Yaaaay you have completed plug-A conversion. Now lets modify the B and C plugs..
Just kidding.We dont need to change anything to B and C plugs :smile2: as they are already of Si wiring.
Abdul, you said here that, "Civic Si ecu. ECU part : 37820-RRB-A12 A14 is for auto.dont order that nor the A05.". This is a mistake. I know the 37820-RBB-A14 is from a 2011 Civic Si K20Z3 with 6M/T. This is what I used, and all from same donor car, engine was also complete with wiring harness. -A14 is okay, It is not for an automatic transmission. Search eBay and Internet and see this is so. Merle.
 
Abdul, You wrote in above post: "Civic Si ecu. ECU part : 37820-RRB-A12 A14 is for auto.dont order that nor the A05." This is a mistake if you are saying to don't order A14. I used A14 with my swap from donor car, a 2011 Civic 2dr Si K20Z3 6M/T with Navigation. It came with full engine harness still on engine, and the A14 ECU. Looking up at Hondapartsnow.com, the 37820-RRB-A14 replaces the 37820-RRB-A13 and 37820-RRB-A12 ECUs. The A14 ECU is definitely the correct one for manual transmission. I don't know about the A05 you mentioned. -Merle Schnick
 
The height

As IMA battery is removed which is near 80Lb(36kg,yes i have weighted) so the rear is lifted and looks ugly.Almost 2 inch increase in rear height and half inch decrease in front height.
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So use some lowering springs in rear or coilovers.
I had my Fit Tanabe Coform-R coilovers laying around so i used those. As the height is different so instead of shocks bottoming out i used spacers.
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And here the K-RZ is ready
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Do remember to do a clucth pedal adjustment.as its new engine and transmission now,so the engaging point might have changed. Also do remeber to do valve adjustments after 1st 1000 km
What size wheels/tires? Original CR-Z are 195/55R16 with 16" x 6" rims with 55mm offset, 5 (lug) x 114.3mm with 64.1mm center bore.
I want to use 225/45R17 with 17" x 7.5 to 8" rims with 35mm to 30mm offset and not staggered.
 
Discussion starter · #135 ·
What size wheels/tires? Original CR-Z are 195/55R16 with 16" x 6" rims with 55mm offset, 5 (lug) x 114.3mm with 64.1mm center bore.
I want to use 225/45R17 with 17" x 7.5 to 8" rims with 35mm to 30mm offset and not staggered.
You will be fine. The tyres of CRZ in pics are 225/45 R17 x 7.5J with 38 mm offset. CRZ can fit even 255 with ease and not rub
 
Hi Nivek, I'm just curious how the engine can withstand 500hp without internal parts changed such as pistons and conrods etc? And I'm seeking your advice how to achieve 350++ hp on NA routes. Of course the cost saving way possibly. And in case of the turbo way, what's the safety boost level for both stock zf1 manual and k24a3 6speed for long terms heavy footer use? What's the injector capacity needed if using stock zf1 fuel pump for going turbo. I can still keep using zf1's fuel pump even I k-swapped a k24 and turboed it? I know it's alot of questions but you are the only one I wish to get the answers from. I'm owning a zf1 manual and planning to swap a cl9 k24 6 speed manual in it. And if you don't mind I hope can have your WhatsApp number because I might have many advises needed from you. I'm not going to diy the conversion as I don't have time for it. I can't also fully trusted the mechanics words as many of them are not that sincere. So I ends up here seeking for your advice.
 
Discussion starter · #137 ·
Hi Nivek, I'm just curious how the engine can withstand 500hp without internal parts changed such as pistons and conrods etc? And I'm seeking your advice how to achieve 350++ hp on NA routes. Of course the cost saving way possibly. And in case of the turbo way, what's the safety boost level for both stock zf1 manual and k24a3 6speed for long terms heavy footer use? What's the injector capacity needed if using stock zf1 fuel pump for going turbo. I can still keep using zf1's fuel pump even I k-swapped a k24 and turboed it? I know it's alot of questions but you are the only one I wish to get the answers from. I'm owning a zf1 manual and planning to swap a cl9 k24 6 speed manual in it. And if you don't mind I hope can have your WhatsApp number because I might have many advises needed from you. I'm not going to diy the conversion as I don't have time for it. I can't also fully trusted the mechanics words as many of them are not that sincere. So I ends up here seeking for your advice.
K24a2a3 and k20 typre Rs can withstand 500 hp. thats near 440 WHP. BUT if the engine is relatively new, the piston rig gaps are not worn out yet so high boost can kill the rings. So if you buying a very old used engine than 500 hp is safe and if newer less used one than stick to 380-420 range and you will be fine.
Stock Zf1 fuel pump can support upto 320 hp.
350+ NA is very expensive and with higher lift cams the power will only come after 6000 rpm and to 8200 rpms. So not worth in a k24. Turbo is lot cheaper.
and with boost cut settings and using smaller spring in wastegate, turbo is also very safe.
i blown my built 300 hp NA k24 just by doing a mis-shift from 3-1 instead of 3-4 gear. So in NA setup you always have tpo rev higher and shift gears becoz power is only up there in top rpms. but in turbo power starts from 3500 rpm and all the way to top. I dont even have to hit vtec anymore at 5500 rpm becoz so much power even in low rpms for daily fun drive. after VTEC its an animal, safety hazard for pedisrtians( LOl trafic is not good in Pakistan, lot of pedistrians, bikers, rikshaws coming/going wrong ways).
So my advice use a small turbo like GTX 3071R with internal wastegate to make things simple.
about your question of stock zf1 engine limits, its near 200 hp. over that you will break the rods. been there done that also LOL
 
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