[Nivek]

Oil feed,return,EGT

Although mine is a journal bearing turbo but i still used an oil restrictor. As in our Honda's the oil pressure is much higher especially in VTEc so oil restrictor is must.
Ball bearing turbo’s need less oil so we use more restrictive feed. Garret advises a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section.
For ball bearing its 1.5 mm.

As the return is near the HAsport mount so a 45 or 90 degree bend is needed here. I ordered it from ebay/aliexpress.

The straight nozzle caused the bend in rubber pipe which was no good. so i used a metal bend instead. Its an An10 to barb 90 D
degree fitting.

The feed and drain must be vertical. I mean the feed should be near 90 degree.

Oil drain bung:

Some people use bonjo bolts to do this job but that is dangerous as its on bottom side of oil pan which is not good for oil flow as the oil level is above that. I made a hole in front and top most position of oil pan and welded a bung to it. 1/2 inch

inside it was hitting the oil pump so i grinded it.

Ready and painted

while you are at it install the magnetic oil drain lug as well. It catches quite the metal debris

Also installed my Exhaust Gase Temerature sensor,as in turbo its better to keep an eye on exhaust temperatures aswell.because too much ignition retard and back pressure can cause it to raise dangerously.

Here is oil retuen completed

On backside of oil pan and engine there are too many obstacles in the way of oil return line,axles,downpipe etc etc. so its best on front side.Its also shorter on front side.

 

[Nivek]

Lets start it

So lets get thing going by installing all togahter and starting her up.
Spray the exhaust manifold gasket some copper spray

All went well and it started righ up.but after it warmed up,look what happens to that expentive and 1 month awaited VHT Flame proof Ceramic Coating.

i was so angry and disappointed

I did no mistake in caoting it. i sand papers the manifold and after the caoting i baked it but still. I do not recommend this coating to any one.
Luckyly i had some heat wraps around.

But one thing which came good out of that is that i draw the manifold design on a borad, so that in future if you guys want to take this same route of a sidewinder turbo,you dont have to start from scratch like i did.

Some day when i am free,i will draw and measure all the angles and distancees for you people and post it with pics.

Next i will install turbo blanket,my HKS newly arrived muffler, HKS high flow air filter(on way from JApan).at this time i am using a knock off filter.because i was not sure which filter would fit as the space is so tight.

and it were better if the turbo manifold have been slightly toward the right side.there was space there but i didt know at that time how close the filter will be to the hose

Plus you will have to use a smaller battery. i am using 17 Amps dry battery and it has worked so well even in winters.

Here is start up video i made.enjoy :wink2:

 

[talhasadiq700]

Hey, where did you get this bumper from and how much did it cost u?

Which bumper are you talking about ?
Back ?

Or front ?

Sorry i meant hood haha

 

[Nivek]

Sorry i meant hood haha

Its a hood i impoorted from japan. will cost you near 1200-1400$

 

[Nivek]

Hondata 4 Bar map sensor and IAT sensor,BOV

As stock honda MAP sensor read max 11 psi so if you want to run more than 11 psi boost you should upgrade it.
Here i am using Hondata 4 bar map sensor.

Installation was bolt on except for the grip which was different.For wiring, instead of cutting the grip of old sensor, i de-pinned the old map sensor and inserted the pins in new sensor grip in similar pattern. No change in the order of wires.

Done. Remember to change the map sensor settings in flashpro/ktuner to 4 bar map sensor.

An update : Following part number does not need a wiring or grip change for map sensor.

IAT sensor fitting
Stock IAT sensor is not so firmly fitted in intake.But now as we will be running high boost,chances of it popping out would be great, So i did my setup like this.
Found a 19 mm bolt.its shaft was near 15 mm. the IAT sensor diamter is near 10 mm. I went to machine shop and asked them to drill the bolt with 11 mm drill. Fitted the IAT sensor and filled the space with epoxy.

In pic below you can also see the HKS BOV fitted. The universal intercooler piping does't include the fitting for it.So i had to buy this piece seperate.

Drilled a hole for fitting of our IAT screw.

BUt before fitting of IAT lets do a little mod 1st that will increase the speed of IAT sensor reading much much faster(needed in a boosted application).its done by removeing plastic over the tip of sensor. To attampt this,you should have spare IAT sensor(which are cheap,i got 4 sesnor in 12$ from junk yard).

Take a sharp blade and cut the top plastic.

Once enough orange glass is exposed,reverse the direction of blade to remove extra plastic.

Final product should look like this

One failed sensor .I did mistake of trying heating up the plastic 1st but that removed the glass covering of sensor coil.

Onec i was into it.i modded two more just in case..

Now fill the screw with exposy of your choice(i used JB weld) and cover the tio of sensor when passing it through

Finally i used silicon sealant to seal all around once i tightened the screw into pipe.
Meanwhile HKS muffler is also here.

Next will be fuel return system,fuel pump upgrade abnd injectors

 

[Nivek]

The Fuel Pump and Retun line

The Fuel Pump:
1st of all loosen the fuel cap to relief fuel pressure
The CR-Z fuel pump is located under rear seat. It’s very easy to remove as only two hooks and one 12 mm bolt is holding the rear seat. In picture I already have removed the seat

After removing metal cover the fuel pump assembly is exposed.


I highly recommend cleaning the surrounding are from dust etc. because it will fall in fuel tank once the assembly is removed.
Honda has special tool to open that big plastic nut on fuel assembly but you can use many things and just tap it with a hammer counterclockwise to open.

The CR-Z fuel assembly looks similar to civic. so YouTube videos will also help regarding changing fuel pump of 8th-9th gen civics.
Once that big ring nut is removed, slowly extract the pump out, be careful as the fuel level checking mater is in the bottom. Move pump side to side to clear it out of tank.

Simply unbolt the wiring and the clips

After much wiring removed

In depth details of fuel pump removal cannot be captured because our hands were full and dirty and i avoided use of cell phone near fuel. The pump removal method was similar as for 8th-9th civic.
Here are some useful videos.

,

and

.

The fuel filter was so much clogged wonder how car was able to run before.

We used the filter which came with the new AEM pump.

OEM and AEM pumps side by side. Dimension wise the are identical except AEM one has slightly larger body.

OEM pump close-up view if someone wants to know part number

Top view

AEM fuel pump part number AEM 50-1220

So for CR-Z/Fit we have two direct bolt on options along with bolt on wiring grips.
1:AEM 50-1220
2: DW65c for civic si Part : DW 9-651-1008
Both these have same dimentions

Instead of drilling a new bung in fuel pump assembly and passing a new return line from engine bay to here, i will be using EVAP line as my return fuel line. So its better to change OEM rubber EVAP fumes(i am sure OEM one can be used but for peace of mind) line with PTFE fuel line.

The line is hard and don’t kink it. I used heat gun to heat both ends away from car than quickly installed it. Don’t use heat gun near fuel fumes!!

I used two clamps on each end to make a leak free seal.

Better order some clamps of various sizes. It helped a lot

Last but not least we need to change another piece of rubber line with PTFE line which is underneath the car. As CR-Z Charcoal Canister is behind and above rear axle. Jack the car up. Put on some safety goggles on because the dirt will fall in your eyes.

Other step is easy.

Just un-connect the OEM EVAP cannister feed and return and join the two togather.
Just wear some rubber gloves too, because line will be hot and it wont slip with rubber gloves. You will need some force to slide it over. Don’t forget to pass on the clamps 1st.

The Honda Fit/Jazz has Charcoal Canister in the engine bay so those wont need to do this step under the car.

Note: Honda Fit/JAzz has central fuel tank so the fuel pump is located between the front seats under the handbrake


The inside engine bay fuel system will be posted when i will post installing fuel pressure regulator and return fuel lines.

 

[Nivek]

Injectors 1000cc FIC

Ok lets install those Fuel Injector Clinic 1000cc high Impedance injectors.
K series uses high impedance injectors.

The FIC provides data for each in a detailed sheet about their flow and dead times/latency times/opening times

1st remove the injectors wiring and bring that toward front of car.(away from fuel rail) because we will be soldering/heat sleeving the new clips,so its better that fire is away from fuel rail.although at this point we have not opened fuel rail so no fuel/fumes are there. thats why i recommend installing the clips 1st becuase once you remove fuel rail,fuel will spill.

Remove the plastic cover to expose wiring

The clips differ.so we have to cut the OEM ones and install new ones

Although it does't matter about polarity but its better that you attach +ve wire to +ve wire and vice versa.in K-series the +ve is Yellow/Black wire.which we will attach to red wire of new injector clips.

The other black wire of new clip will attach to the colored wires of injector clips.its easy to figure out.

Do one at time.

All done.

Once done,loosen the fuel cap to releive fuel pressure in system. un hook the fuel rail and intsall new injecotrs.it was pretty staight forward.Use some oil on O rings of injectors to install them easy

I had to struggle when removing old injectors from intake manifold but they will come out after some widdling.

After every thing installed,put new latency times in your ECU and reduce the cranking fuel aswell.i had to substract near 50% cranking fuel.Now it starts better than OEM :wink2:

Reduce the low fuel tables aswell.

Once map is uploaded,turn switch on and see for any fuel leaks. If no than start it up and immediately look at AFR readings and reduce the fuel.I had laptop hooked for live tuning and initially AFR was pig rich.Reduced the fuel and now it idles and runs very smooth.

Next will be fuel lines and retun fuel system.

 

[Nivek]

Recaro seats

Meanwhile Recaro seats were long awaited install.Had to slightly modify by adding metal strips at installation points.

The seat belt clip i removed from OEM set and installed it on Recaro seat.Seat belt light works fine.

 

[Nivek]

Big brakes and rear lights tinting

The rear lights tape was becoming un-even in this warm weather.so i decided to permantly tint them

Visiblity at night is excellent

As we know with big power the brake upgrade can be useful.I got nice deal for some Jdm Espec's big brakes kit

The rotors are huge compared to OEM.i think they are 340 or 380 mm

The work was done 2 weeks ago.not doing anything on car these days s i told earlier the reason.

Barely clears Enkei 17" rims.One reason because Enkei rims have shorter spokes.

And they look cool too..

 

[BeauJanglez]

I just got my long block and trans in, just want to say thanks for this write up! especially the wiring sections... now the fun part of parts collecting!!!! Keep us updated on the progress

 

[Nivek]

The Return Fuel setup,FPR and Fuel Lines

Hello guys,i have been lazy in past few weeks as you know its hot outside and its Ramadan and i am fasting almost 17 hours a day.
Ok lets not delay the promised Fuel system.
You know these days another type of return fuel system is becoming famous because its simple. Its called "No Nonsense fuel return system".
Yes funny name. You can watch these links to understand how it works.
https://www.8thcivic.com/forums/turbocharging/435993-no-nonsense-fuel-return.html
and some nice videos on youtube aswell. In Nutshell,its system where fuel is fed to fuel pressure regulator(FPR) and the retun is through same FPR. But fuel rail is fed from a guage port/or another port from FPR. So theoratically same pressure inside FPR is also inside the fuel rail.(if the distance from fule rail to FPR is not too long,i later found out this fact).This system is simple because you dont have to use after market fuel rail for this.(which is open on both sides).

The lines and fittings should be PTFE braided lines and fittings. The braided lines for oil etc etc won't works and will leak after some time.
Here is what its looks like.I opted for a remote FPR location away from heat.

Make two holes for your FPR.

Once its mounted,lets make some PTFE -6AN lines.Let me briefly go over the fifference between fuel vs oil lines.

The PTFE braided lines can be nylon braided or steel braided.What matters is that they have white plastic like lining.The oil braided lines have black rubber lining.

And there are plenty of videos over net how to make assemble them.All you need is some vice and wrench.

The cutting is important.We dont wants the ends to get frayed. I have used dremel aswell as big wire cutter both with success. But dremel causes heat and you can use it when there is no fuel in system.but once fuel is in system and for some reason you need to cut a line or change a fitting,its better you use big wire cutter.(i am using 430mm diameter wire cutter)

If for some reason you dissemble a fitting,you will need a new olive/ferrula as this thing is crushed once the fitting is made.So better order some extra.they are dirt cheap.

Be sure to order some 90,45 and staight PTFE AN fittings. You dont know what you need.

For return line i used PTFE non braided line and attached it to factory EVAP line.and from my previous posts you can see where that line goes inside the fuel tank.

Instead of -AN style retuen,i opted for barb fitting style as there is not much pressure in return line. You will need a barb to 1/8 fitting for that.i needed a 90 degree one.

On barb fittings you will need some type of clamps to tighly seal and hold it in place.
The type of fitting all depends upon what fuel pressure regulator you will use and what lines.So plan ahead and order.
I forgot to mention the fittings needed where our fuel lines connect to -6AN lines. The k-series fule rail has 5/16(equals -6AN diamter almost) end.So you will need a 5/16 to -6An fitting.

and our CRZ/Fit has 1/4mm(Equals -4AN diamter +-).So to connect those to our -6AN lines you will need 1/4 to -6An fitting.

For fuel pressure guage(digital/analogue) you will need this

Here we are with all system done.

 

[Nivek]

Conventional return fuel system

The above system do works but i was not able to raise fuel pressure beyond 43 psi. I think its because the fuel rail was far from FPR. Other reason may be that the feed line at fuel pump is -4AN.(OEM CRZ/Fit). So one option was i do a new -6AN feed line starting from fuell pump all the way to engine bay.
i thought why not try the old school and famous method which involves feeding from one side of fuel rail,exiting to FPR and than return from FPR.
So i bought a cheap k-series AEM knock off fuel rail.

I also had to import fuel fittings which fit its both ends.took a lot of time searching what kind of fittings will fit.But now i know which ones.took two weeks to arrive.

Or you can use this

Its a debate whether to use Teflon or other selants on fuel fittings. I think teflon tape is a no no becasue it might break and clog the injectors. I used liquid teflon with success.

For peice of mind i also used a 30 micon fuel filter

So here we are with conventional fuel retun system

feed and retun close view with guage port cloed now.You can use guage here but i intend on using guage at fuel rail to know exact pressure at injectors.

Be careful with the cheap ebay manual fuel guages.They will leak eventually.

So with this system i was able to rasie fuel pressure upto 53 psi. no other factors changed.This proves that conventional system is still better method to do.

Last but not least.
Vaccum/Boost Lines
K-series has many vaccum ports on intake manifold. For my boost solenoid and guage i used port form turbo housing.For FPR and BOV i used from inatke manifold near throttle body. Remember that the Turbo waste gate diphragm should not see the vaccum.So if you connect it to any other inatke manifold port(which seas vaccum) instead of turbo compressor housung,it will damage it.

and there is a hidden port which connect the EVAP source.Since i am not using EVAP system any more.so i blocked it off.

I recommend not to use any of the brake vaccum becasue it has check valve in it.

Just posting because some one might also do this mistake.i almost hit some car from behind.So leave this check valve as it is.

All done and tuged nicely.had to cut some plastic to make space for fuel guage.

About time we put on those cowel schield and wipers Atlast after 6 months or so...

Remember to use planty of Golden heat reflective tape near the turbo.

Aaaaaaand now we can close the hood too.Finishing our build .

Next to tuning.initial tuning is done.Idles like stock at 900 rpms. its running upto 1bar boost. I am figuring out the 4 port solenoid settings as to what percentage will control how much boost. As i want to use boost by gear to gain maximum tarction.
So far its 3 psi in 1st gear,9 psi 2nd gear, 14 psi in 3rd. Its near 400 whp(my target final is 500 whp/550hp). Blast to drive. As the turbo is big,so it spools little later.near 4000 RPMs which i want becasue of wheel spin.But the torque is massive due to big k24 engine and big turbo. I will post the video soon.

This concludes this build.I hope you can forgive spelling and grammer mistakes as English is not my mother language.
I will be posting videos of dyno,races etc and i will be glad to help you people with the K-swaps.Pm me or email me for any help.1st page has been updated with all the links.So 1st search that and than if you still need help i will be glad to.

 

[Nivek]

Here is short video during a tuning session.quality is not so good.

 

[96firephoenix]

looks amazing.

 

[Bear_Jew13]

Watching this build for a while now, amazing work!
Genuinely inspiring, it's given me the confidence to attempt it myself, although nothing quite as spectacular as a K24 turbo lol.

Looking forward to the updates!

 

[Nivek]

HKS dryflow filter

Thankyou @ Bear_Jew13.
Long awaited HKS filter from RHDjapan arrived. Time to chnage that cheap filter with quality one.

For people wondering about the filteration quality,i took this picture in direct sun,and you can't see any pores.Its a tripple filteration dry flow filter

For fitment i needed a 4-3" reducer silicon coupler as my turbo intake side is 4"

Initially i ordered Part number : 70019-AK106
HKS Super Power Flow Intake System - Universal 200-100mm(4" filter base) as i though because my turbo inlet side was 4" but figure 200 mm(8") filter mushroom diameter was too big. Wasted 310$
So i ordered Part number : 70019-AK103 which is 150-80mm, which i found to be fit very nicely. no more hitting to anything.

I heard that i sounds awsome,you can look some vidoes on youtube. Cant wait to record its sound and post here.:wink2:
Currently waiting on my bigger fuel pressure regulator to arrive,so i can bump fuel pressure up,currently 1000 cc injectors are maxing out at 14 psi boost.

 

[Nivek]

Since the forum layout has changed the page numbering has changed. Previuosly 10 pagesa re now 5 pages. I tried to edit 1st page regarding it but cannot find edit option.
But i can find it in newer posts after the layout changed. Is it a bug or it will keep this way ?

 

[Nivek]

Hello, atlast the fuel pressure problem has been solved. I tried the new pressure regulator but still the fuel pressure was not raising beyong 53 psi. i searched for days but found very little info as there are less conversions on modern returnless systems.
But found a very useful thread which lead me to solve the problem. The built in FPR in fuel tank was the culprit.

After removing it

Now here you have two options.
One: Weld the stock fpr hole shut and be done.which i did because it simple and fool proof.

Two: Cut it open from opposite side and remove the spring inside.

with this mode,now you will have to cap shut this.and you know there are chances that that can slip and you will loose fuel pressure.

So you can be creative in this method to where you close the stock in tank retun line,but it should remain close.no slips etc etc otherwise fuel pressure will drop and leasd to engine damage especailly in a boosted car.

So i went with the method one,i found a faulty fpr from junkyard and welded it shut. i saved my original fpr.
Another little optional mode i did was i opened the round looking box under evap pipe and removed the inside spring and a thing,they seemed restriction. now mu return line is free flowing.(i blew in it to make sure)

Rest was same.re-assembling back togather and bingo,the fuel pressure uis now where i set it to be with my external FPR. I set it now at 55 psi and it raises with boost with 1:1 ratio.

And my GTX 3580 turbo has arrived too.Its a dual ceramic ball bearing turbo and spools crazy quick.

Turbo fitted. and i also did firewall tape wrapping to protect the heat going in cabin and also cut my old turbo heat blanket and coverted some delicate areas like fuel lines,brake lines,brake boosted lines and coolant heater lines which were near the headers.

When i cut the turbo blanket,the inside foamy material came out,i was worried that it could catch fire,but the thing is fire proof.i tried to burn it with butane torch but it did't catch fire no matter what.so i am not worried at-all now.

Also i re-routed the valve cover breather to the pre-turbo.Because in boost there will be no vaccum in intake manifold and pcv system will not vent.instead the crank case pressure will be releived from here.as at that time this will be in vaccum

Now officially the build is complete.All the modes which i wanted have been done and installed.Only remains is turning.Yesterday i went for a short session and this turbo hits hard and with HKS filter it sounds sweeeeeet
I will post video soon InshaAllah.
Lets go tuning

 

[Nivek]

i know,i know i said this was last mode but one thing was bugging me for long time now. so i thought to some thing about it. As you know turbo is in engine bay now and so are headers so i was worried about under hood temperature rising. You can see i have vented hood but the turbo and headers are far behind the vents

So i did multiple holes in cowel schield with hole saw.

Covered with gold wrap tape

After fittment i tested and here are temperature differences.very noticible.this is after 10 mins of idling.

On opposite side of turbo,header side

So far so good,but the plastic covering schiled has holes in it already but not where turbo is.

So i drilled some area,the amrks were already there so it was easy and accurate.needs some sanding but well

So lets put it to real test now.i went for run,did multiple pulls.Down are the results after hard running the car
The trubo,

When i placed my hand on holes i can litterly feel the heat coming out.
This is where no holes.

Right above the holes

Headers side

So i am very happy this the outcome. and i think this mode helps a lot cooling under hood tempratures who wants to go 'in bay' turbo route with a k-swap.

 

[Nivek]

Drilling the Fuel cap :
just a little more thing i forgot to do,here it is.
Its advised you buy some spare fuel caps.i bought three with 8$ total from local junk yard.

Since i am using EVAP line as return line,so i was concerned regarding rising pressure in fuel tank. Althought when i removed the fuel cap today and opened it up inside i was pleased to know that its a vented fuel cap.There is a spring which is holding a small cap inside which is lifted to releive the excess pressure.

If you press the spring and canter cap with a small screw driver you can blow air from other sides,by which i confirmed its a vented fuel cap.

Its very easy to open it.few plastic clips needed to be pushed to sides with small flat screw driver to remove the plastic cover and it looked like this after

using a small drill bit i drilled a hole in center

but by the amount of air i can blow with this small hole,i wish i had used even a smalled bit. i recommend .6mm. i used 1 mm

Its a tiny hole but i can blow air through it easyly.although this will releif what ever pressure left in tank but will waste some amount of fuel as it will evaporate into air. So i plan on drilling an even smaller hole in spare caps and see the results.i will go with .5mm

So with this mode i dont hear any 'Whooosh" sound when opening fuel cap,i know some of that sound is normal as fuel system is under pressure but now i have piece of mind
Note: i have updated offline save of this whole build uptill today.Here is the link aswell on 1st page of this build. dropbox link
For some one thinking it wont pass the emisions,
Answer is that we dont have any emisions here(perks of living in 3rd world )