Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums banner
1 - 20 of 135 Posts

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello there, this is about swapping a k24 or k20 in a Crz. In this swap a k24a2/a3 is being swapped. Purpose to do a K24 swap is that it is a lot cheaper than k20 and has more torque and is at 200 Hp and has very much potential to go up in Hp range very easily, plus is boost friendly as it has 10.5:1 CR.
Until recently ( Nov 18,2017) HAsport only made mounts of K-swap(k20 only) for either Civic Si(k20z3) transmissions or DC5 ones which added to swap cost as they are very expensive. If you were to use a k24 block, you would still need a k20z3 or a K20 DC5/RSX-S transmissions. But now HAsport makes mounts for CRZ which support k24 transmissions (TSX 6 spd, Civic si 2012-2015).So now a complete k24 swap can be done in very less $$$$
Now presenting the video series which contains many new things,covers both k24 & k20 route.Also covers Zf1 & Zf2 aswell as Fit GE(2nd Gen) and Fit GK(3rd Gen).

Complete k swap guide part1
Estimated Project cost will be 4500-5000$.(Can go up depending upon labor of shop). This will be very feasible alternative to SC or Turbo kits available for Crz which cost from 3000-5000$
k24a2/a3 with 6 spd manual transmission 1500$-2000$
Shifter & cables= 150$|Model:Civic&hash=item41d02b4fe4:g:GeEAAOSwYyxZf5NL
HAsport Mounts for k24 (now they make them) 700$ (You have to mention k24 and its transmission type when placing order)
Flashpro/Ktuner: 700$/450$
Axles: 500$(HAsport crz for k24, tell them to ship the k24 ones as the k24 half shaft is longer than k20 )
Or you can buy Insane shaft axles which are rated for 500 hp ,I contacted them and they got data of axles from Hasport (Thanks Brian for sharing data for our sake).So now you can get those in 350$ instead of HAsport 500$ and more strong also than HAsport.
It has come into my information that stock k20z half shaft and axles are bolt ons. This engine comes in Civic Fd1(Malaysia) or you can search which alternate version internationally.
I have tried Insaneshaft axles in my Fit and both axles did't fit. So kindly contact Insaneshafts before buying that if axles dont fit they will return them back and refund you.

K20 idler pulley optional: 40$(If k24 have hydraulic Power Steering pump pulley and you don’t want to use that, just disconnected the hydraulic PS lines but keep the pump and pulley there for belt sake, will save you Idler pulley as well as new serpentine belt cost)).but will require a slight modification in power steering pump so that it doesn’t get jammed running without any oil in it.
Civic Si wiring: 120$
Si ECU+ Ignition key Optional =190$( not needed if you can tow your car to Honda dealership and match the new ECU with your old CRZ keys
Custom 2-2.5” exhaust=??
Headers OEM k24
Civic Si primary O2 sensor(Or you can use CRZ one,Yes it was done in a swap in Zf2 chassis in Malaysia and it worked) =120$
Secondary o2 sensor=Optional.
Radiator OEM (its more than enough, we have three k20,s and two 24 running with OEM crz radiators and are just fine, temperature remains 90-94 C.
Misc=IAT sensor, wiring grips (If you don’t want to use your Crz one’s)=50$,coolant 4L,oil etc
Spark plugs can use the ones that come with engine(k24 or k20,BKR7EIX) but I advise new: 35$
Tune: you can use any base TSX/Si map given in Flashpro calibrations
Honda dealership matching of your new immobilizer key and civic Si ecu=50$ ?
Intake: Can use that comes with new engine or just a short ram with K&N filter =50$
Swap shop labor if you don’t have engine stand=? 400-500$ ??(shops here cost 120$ for whole engine swap)
The purpose of this thread is to do almost all work as D.I.Y and at end if you don’t have engine stand to put the engine in/out than you can go to a shop to put engine in just in few hours.
As labor is not so cheap in some countries and they cost per hour bases, so purpose of this build is to get most work done before going to workshop for final engine swap.

Some of you may know me for my Honda Fit Hybrid k20 swap.
Here it is.
It had same LEA Mf6 engine of a CRZ and the wiring of it was copied from a k20 swap crz but was never documented in detail. To date the wiring of CRZ k20 is difficult but it is about to become real easy.
In Pakistan first k20 Crz wiring was done by electrician M.Anwar in 2013. It took him near 2 months to do so as at that time very little support was there about the swaps in modern OBDII cars, yet a hybrid. The fist CRZ was done using two ecu method. The OEM k20a ecu using kpro and a crz ecu.
2nd crz was done by using single ecu of Civic Si USA(2007-11). This method is superior as it has functional OBDII port and the gauge cluster, ABS etc works. Still no documentation was done.
3rd was my car.
here is the thread about its swap
Although I wanted to document the wiring in detail in that build but I failed to do so because it was really complex and i was a beginner in this field.
At that time I promised to myself that I will document it so that its easy enough to do as D.I.Y and the one doing swap is prepared for what is required and what problems he will/might face, like AC compressor hitting chassis and break booster hitting the engine, Radiator fans hitting the intake manifold etc. If you have an automatic CRZ than don’t worry either because I will document all the method from CVT to a manual conversion and it very easy because even in a manual crz you will have to use the new shifter of civic si/tsx and cables. so only thing remains for a cvt is to add a used clutch paddle from a Honda CRZ/Fit/jazz/City/Civic along with its respective cylinder. Conversion will not cost more than 200-300$.
So with no further delay lets start
In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful

English is not my language so I apologize for any spelling and grammar mistakes.

Special thanks to Mr.Anwar and Ustad Danish who helped me when I needed.
Here is crz I bought recently for the project. Its a 2010 MT.

Here is the k24 engine for swap

This thread will mainly focus on doing all the work prior to engine installation into engine bay. Goal is to swap k20/24 in just few hours.
There are some sensor grips and main wiring grip you need to buy. Its better if you have a junk yard nearby. If you want to use a k24, than you will have to change oil pressure sending unit, Knock sensor grip, Crank sensor grip.(All these can be used of your Crz engine, but if you plan to return your crz to stock in future and don’t want to use any of its parts than you will have to find these from a junkyard or ebay etc). You will need IAT sensor and its grip.(The crz uses MAF sensor which has IAT sensor integrated into it ,so you will have to buy it, I will give its details in sensor wiring section)
As JDM models don’t have Hill assist so at this time we don’t know if it poses any problem in a k20 swap crz which has it.
I will cover each section of build separately but emphasizing most on how to do wiring on your own.

Here are the link to quick navigate to the pages..
Sensors sweap and sensors wiring connectors modification and engine preperation depending upon engine Page 1
The new forum format has changed the page numbering so much.

Break booster,oil pump,HAsport mounts and instructions Page 2
Engine preperation,clutch,flywheel installation etc etc Page 3
Alternator and starter wiring,immoblizer,pinouts etc Page 4
Main wiring,vss wiring,O2 sensor wiring etc etc Page 5
Axles, halfshaft,Shifters and calble, engine swap and fuel lines and their adapter sizes, some wiring Page 6
Exhaust and gearbox modification Page7
Turbo k24 Sidewinder CRZ build Page 7 & 8
Page 9:
Turbo feed,retun,oil pan modification,fuel pump,fuel injecotrs(FIC 1000cc)
Page 10 The Return Fuel setup,FPR and Fuel Lines

I also have updated Dropbox folder regarding all the offline save of this build upto page 7 of this build.I advise download and save a copy of that becasue some time pictures get deleted from hosting sites.
Dropbox folder
Diagrams and pics
Select option 'Download" on top right corner and it will download as a Zip file.extract and open.its 128 mb download uptill now.
For motivation i have made a collection of videos.Enjoy ;)
Now presenting the Complete K-Swap guide in video series.
All the routes,k24 or k20 in a Honda CR-Z Zf1 chassis aswell as Zf2
Honda Fit Hybrid,Honda Fit GE,Fit GK or in modern Honda.
Save the money and labour.Learn to do it with yourself.

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
oil pressure sensor,vtec oil pressure sensors,Crank sensor

So lets prepare the engine 1st by replacing the sensors which are compatible with Civic Si wiring. 1st thing you should buy the engine.When it arrives inspect it for any broken sensors during shipment.So you may need to order those sensors too.
The sensors on backside of engine which need replacing/replacing the grips/re-pin the grip are Oil pressure sending unit,Vtec oil pressure switch,Crank sensor.
Before this all, i advice you buy Civic si wiring,so that installing new Grip/Sensor you will verify that the wiring plugs into it fine.

Oil pressure sending Unit
Located just above oil filter. If you have k20z2/k20A engine than you don’t have to change this unit. But if you are using k24a2,a3 or else you will you will see such unit which your civic si wiring plug won’t plug into.
the sensor being replaced is most common Honda oil pressure sensing unit.found almost on many if not most Honda/Acura cars.I found it from Junk yard.You can use your CRZ engine one also.


But for opening the sensor you will have to remove the exhaust manifold and its schild,because there is no space for the opening wrench to spin.

You will need 24mm wrench for it

If you engine came with an oil cooler,its oil pipe will hinder the new oil sensor location. A slight tapping with a hammer will be all that will be needed to clear the space.

After the sensor is installed.

When installing the new sensors/grip verify by plugging your Si wiring

While you are working at front side of engine its wise to replace the water body jacket which is pointing upward in pic below.This is k24a2/3

The problem of having this is the the radiator hose will have to bend at 180 degree and than come down to the radiator.which i found was hitting my radiator fan and one time radiator fan hit the radiator causung it to leak. Plus it will be difficult to find the hose which will ebdn 180 degree and come down. The easy solution is

The beauty is that you can arrange this in any direction you want.which will be downward toward the radiator.But its 170$
So i have found an alternative from Aliexpress which work equally good.I am using this both in my CRZ(k24) aswell Honda Fit(k20)

Its only 34$ and quality is very good

Plus you can add your Coolant temperature guage sensor it it.

Final pic with it pointing downward

One slight suggstion if you intend to install your coolant guage sensor in this housing.The slight problem is that the guage port which is specific for this is not on right location.i mean if we install it in that port the sensor touched the thermostat valve inside of housing.

I went to machine shop and made them a hole in a screw for my water sensor.The screw used was the common transmission drain bolt on most Honda transmissions.

Finally its not hitting the thermostat valve

Final fittment

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Crank Sensor

This one is slightly tricky to get wire correctly.So many confused posts over the internet.
The rule of thumb is " follow the sensor not the wiring grip or the ecu"
Below is the the crank sensor of a k24. and also of CRZ and Honda Jazz,Honda City.Its very common again.
I took it out for demonstration purpose only.No need to pull out the sensor.Just you need is re-pin its wiring grip.

Numbers written on it are 15130172-3925-RAA but its part number for k24a2 is 37500-RAA-A01.
Notice the difference between the wire location in grip ? The blue wire is signal wire,BRn/Yel is Ground and Yel/blk is its power.Above is k24 and down is k20.

Notice slight difference in the grips also from above

Now you will need to remove the white plastic plastic material inside the grip with a small screw driver or a dental pick etc etc and it will lokk like this.

Now its easy to pul the wire from back and re put them according to k24 wiring diagram.

This is after the re-pinning civic si wiring grip which now looks like the k24 wiring grip which came with my engine.(i bought k24 with its complete wiring so that i might need some wiring grips from it).

So to summerize all this,all three wire sensors sends its signal from a specific wire,light blue in our example(two wire sensors,only ground and power doest matter if you reverse the wires).So the ECu is looking for that signal from that wire.Its up to you to know which sensor is it and which is signal wire.So the wiring grips will follow the output of the k24 sensor not the k20.Although we are using k20 wiring and a k20 ECU.

Knock Sensor.

(Front side of engine behind the intake manifold)

If you have k20a/z3 than you don’t need change anything. If you have k24 than its got different knock sensor but both work the same and are interchangble. Only thing needs changing is the wiring grip. Easy way to do is cut the Crz wiring knock sensor grip and attach it to civic si wiring.
Left k24 knock sensor. Right k20A/z3

as you can see k20 knock sensor is slighly longer,so it will be near the engine and may be more sensitive.both will work.

You will need a 27 mm socket(a deep one) to open the knock sensor.area there is tight so the wrenches will not work.
Grips,Left is common Honda knock sensor CRZ/k24, right is k20a,k20z3,k20a2,dc5

Instead of cutting my crz wiring grip I found a grip from junkyard.
Common Honda grip Left, K20 Right

Tie and solder it to Si wiring,you can cut the grip of your CRz wiring.its same as k24

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
VTEC Oil pressure switch (Optional)

So far we have removed exhasut manifold to adress the oil pressure sending unit and intake manifold to address the knock sensor,water body jacket and starter wiring(i will tell next).
The JDM engines dont use the vtec oil pressure switch but Civic si uses and it has its wiring grip and ECU wont active VTEC if this sensor is not installed.( but if yoy are using Hondata flashpro you can disable it ).Its a very common sensor again found of honda Fit GD or Honda City 2003-08.and many more.(at end i will make list of all sensors which needed,ebay or junkyard).
On backside of engine,is Vtec solenoids

You will need to remove this bolt

and install the sensor in its location

Final fitment

So it all depends uopn the engine you got.may be it will have this sensor already.but most JDm engines dont have this like mine did't.So i had to install it but fiound out later i didt need it.
If you plan to use stock Civic si ECU than you need it otherwise skip this step.
I dont know whether Ktuner has option to disable it

In Short :The JDM ECU does't look for this sensor neither do JDM engines have this. US/EU engines has it and the ECu looks for it. But you can disable it with software and every thing & VTEC works just fine if you dont install it in a US/EU engine swap

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Intake temperature sensor (IAT)

Here is you need to choose a path.Either you will use MAAF based ECu maps in Hopndata Flashpro or ktuner or you will use MAP based(speed density). If you want smoothness and drivebilty you should use hybrid map as does the factory honda ECU uses. If you plan on building the engine or boosting it in future than MAP based is good for you. I use MAp based map in bith my k-swapped cars and they are good.
For hybrid configuration you will have to buy Civic si MAAF sensor.It will have both MAAF and IAT sensor in it.No need to do any wiring for it. But if you want to use MAP bases maps,than you dont need that expensive MAAF (110$) sensor but a tiny IA sensor most common in older Hondas.

You just need to wire the IAT sensor two wires according to this diagram of Civic si

Just wire IAt wire to most right side wires of MAAF sensor grip of your Si wiring.i.e Grn/Blk and Red/Yel

Remember to buy the IAT sensor with its grip also. Honda Part No.: 37880-PLC-004.

And for those who want to use MAAF sensor,here is part number , 109$
Honda Part No.: 37980-RTA-003
Thanks Olliver for above diagram.

With this you have completed the major sensors replacement/Grip re-pin for a k24 engine or any k-series engine to accept Civic Si Wiring plug & play.
I hope this all doest seem difficults.Actually it is Fun.
Next i will cover most other hardware related details like axles,half shafts,break booster,CVT to manual conversion,headers,Ac compressor and O2 sensors and many more

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Intake Manifold touching Alternator Bolt

While you are at front of engine,a very important point to note. As most of us know k-series engines came with verious intake manifolds,some have more low eng torque,some have higher top end HP etc etc.So if you choose to use same manifold which came with your engine than these next steps are not needed.
But if you are changing intakle manifold like i did, inspect carefully that after installing intake manifold the Alternator screw is not hitting with it or else you will short circuit wiring or short your alternator.
If thats the case just grind the screw end and it will solve the problem.But its easyly done when engine is out of car.

The rubber cover over the screw is protecting but with time the screw will tear it and touch the manifold and short circuit.Happened to me and i was saved by blown fuse insead of fire in car.

Blown fuse of alternator/generator.This fuse cannot be replaced.You will have to replace the whole unit. I got it soldered but that not good idea and risky.

To expose the screw remove the plastic cover from alternator by opening three bolts holding it using 8 mm key.

Screw exposed

Removal of covering bolt

Marked for grinding (black ink at end)

After grinding the tip

yaay it was easy but wait.Did you noticce the plastic cover is in such a way that now the alternator wire will touch other screw of left.We want it to face downward to be safer. So we also need to grind lower portion of plastic so that our alternator wire will exit down not on left side

After grinding plastic

Aaaand finally its now safe

I think i should also mention some basic tools you will need for preparing engine and wiring.

i recommend buying whole sets of keys instead buying one or two etc.
torque wrench is optional,if you want to do head work.grinder is also optional but will be handy.
You will note some keys are long,those are to open spark plugs as their sockets are deeep.i think 16mm is needed for spark plugs.
a grill machine also will be very handy. Alen key set and hex key set also if you want to modify VTC gear like i did (details later). i forgot the pic of hammer.and feller guage to do valve adjustments.
For wiring a crimping tool and some heat shrink tubes will be handy,plus paper cutter and a lighter.
So these are all basic and simple tools.

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thanks Abdul for posting this. I'm in the midst of k swap or bigger L15a turbo. I wanted to use RSX Type S because it's cheaper than Type R but most workshops here refuse to take this job.

I did thought of swapping it myself, it's such a fortunate to have you here posting the DIY step by step..
Its very easy now if you have basic knowledge.The mounts,axles already plug and play.Just wiring is the part most people fear. So i have saved the wiring part to the end of this build because it is where i want to go in insane amount of details.with pics and videos.
Ok back to the build.
As k-series came with two type of oil pans, one are type R ones mosty on k20a,RSx,Civic si k20z3.Made from Aluminum.These have large oil capacity of 5L-5.5L But the have less ground clearance and so many times people shatter/crack them when hitting a bumps/obstacles etc
Other are Stailess steel oil pans mostly on k24's. They have slight less oil capacity(4.5-5L) but have more ground clearance and as they are of less rigid metal,they bend instead of crack/shatter.So they are very more durable and a lot of peice of mind they give. So if you have K24 swapping than no need to change anything.
But if you are swapping a k20,and want to use k24 steel oil pan,than you have to bend the oil pickup slightly so that it doest hit the oil pan.
Comparison,left k24 right k20

Cross section of a k20 oil pan with its oil pump.Notice how much less gap is there.imagine fitting a k24 pan over it will touch the oil pump pickup and will restrict oil flow and so oil pressure will be less

Note that for this to do you will have to flip the engine over,so if there is any oil in the oil pan it will spill out of engine and you will not like all the oil spilled on the floor.i learned the hard way( wife was not happy with black oil spilled on the floor :p)
So place the engine over two to three bricks,remove the oil drain nut and drain all the oil from engine.than it save to flip it over

By placing the oil pan over the engine.If the pickup is hitting it,the oil pan will not flushly sit on engine block

So its better to cut some metal from pickup.

After cutting its sits flushed.

And the final result with excellent ground clearance

I have done this to my k20 type R swap and it have zero issues and full oil pressure.

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Break booster dilema

Break Booster

As Hasport is USA based company and there the CRZ/Honda Fit are Left hand drive(LHD) but in Japan and most Asia these are Righ Hand drive(RHD).So for guys swapping a k-engine in LHD this step is not needed as the break booster does't hit the block.
For RHD cars like mine JDm CRZ,the break booster hits the back side of engine.So solution is to change it to a shorter lenght.
Lucky for Honda Fit/JAzz guys, their break boosters are already smaller in lenght,so even in RHD Fit/JAzz there is not need to change the break booster.
HAsport knows about this problem and when I asked about it they told that they cannot further shift the engine to other side, so they advise to use 96-00 civic breakbooster. But what I have found that a better option is to use Honda Fit/Jazz breakbooster as its break lines are almost at same spot as crz. CRZ breakbooster master cylinder is 6.5” long where Fit one is just 4”.
Pic of beak booster and engine block

Honda Fit GE break booster 4 inches.You need to change the whole unit,only cylender cannot be changed.

The Fit/Jazz break booster is almost plug & play.Break lines need minimal bending if at all.

Final clearance of near 1.75" nehind the engine

and ofcourse at end break lines need bleeding and brake fluid changed.So keep some Honda brake or Any good DOT3/4 brake fluid with you if you have RHD CRZ.
The break fluid reservoir aslo shifted to right side and fixed with AC line.

The CRz OEM brake reservoir bottle wont fit.but no worry as the reservoir bottle came with the new brake booster is fine as it is more in lenght it fit near AC line. The CRZ reservoir is more in width wise which wont fit anywhere.

So if you have LHD CRZ,smile and move to next post.You have avoided a big troublesome step :)
for you RHD crz's you will have to order a Honda FIt GE break booster nad some brake fluid plus labor of shop will be increased.Suck for you guys but be happy that there is a solution atleast.
I have not found any brake performace decrease in my CRZ which now has Honda Fit break booster in it

Oil pump mode/Counter shaft removal(optional)

Another mode which can be done here. It is to remove the countershafts/balance shafts from oil pump. The k24 and Civic si and EuroR oil pumps have balance shafts in them to counter extra vibrations from a 4 cylender engine to make car more comfortable. But typeR and Type S oil pumps dont have those. So if you want extra revs and oil pressure its easy mode.Just cut the balance shafts.

I used a reciprocating saw to cut them,without removing them from oil pump.took just 10 mins.

Or you can remove and cut it some other ways

After removal

They are so heavy,i think more than 1 lb per shaft.So that removes rear 3 lb of rotational mass plus lot more oil pressure as pump is so easy to move now.Plus less chance of oil cavitation at high Rpms.

Remeber to block the oil feed hole to the balance shafts

Insert a shaft wood screw in it and pull out

You can use a 10 mm screw with some silicon to block it but some time its not threaded,so you will have to tap it for threads.

The end result

But as you can see in above pics a k24 oil pump is so big than a type S. So if you are using a k24 oil pump you cannot use a screw with head protuding will hit the oil pump and oil pump will not fit. So in that case you will use a head less 10 mm screw.ot use a screw and shave off its head.
By this mode its safe to rev k24 upto 8000 rpms. I accidently reved engine upto 9600 rpms (i put rev limit to 7000 but rev recover to 9600 instead of 6900!, i know a very dump mistake,could have bent the valves or damaged the engine but it held)few times and nothing happened.So this mode is very nice regarding oil pressure and less cavitation.

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mount side bracket

Nice write up, very detailed. Question on the oil pick-up though. Instead of bending it to clear the oil pan, couldn't one just cut it to the needed height, or are there other issues by going that route?
Good idea.may be next time i will try it. I may be had this isea but dropped it in fear of opening the pickup point too much. i think Honda made it narrower for some reason.
Back to Build
If using k20a or k20z3 engine no need to change side mount bracket. If using k24 engine (other than of CR-V) than you will have to buy side bracket for right side HAsport engine mount.(When ever i will talk about righ or left side,i am reffereing to the view when driver is sitting on his seat inside the car)

You can campare the bracket which came with your engine to decide if you need it or not.

Here is HAsport user manual about bracket part

This is what came with my engine(k24a2/30) which was wrong part

This is place where it will mount.I know my engine looks dirty.I know.its a whole other story that the guy sold me engine which was clean on outside but was extremely dirty on inside.

Correct bracket

One thing HAsport mentions to order a bolt,but i ordered it and found that the mentioned bolt is thinner and longer. Instead i used one of the bolts from CRZ transmission.

Here i feel to share HAsport user manual which have very useful info regarding swap and what you will need mostly.I have not found it online anywhere.So i am sharing it.

THe last two pages contain very useful info

As i mentioned earlier that now they make the mounts for k24 transmissions also.So you dont have to buy k20z3 or Dc5 transmission seperately like i did.(1350$) and had to buy half shaft also for it (180$).
Instect your transmission also.Mostly the rubber boot cover is torn. Its very cheap.better to order new one before. i did't know this early so i rapired mine with sewing it and than applying silicon over it.

Honda Part No.: 22841-PPP-000

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Hydraulic steering vs Electronic

As the CRZ and Honda Fit uses electronic power sterring(EPS) but the k-series engines came with either EPS or Hydraulic ones. As my k24 came with hydraulic power steering pump which i didt need.
Diffence between two.LEft is a k24 with hydraulic PS and right is k20 with idler pulley instead

So if i but the new pulley its like 162$ plus i will need a new belt too because the size diffence of two pulleys is huge

and if i do not change it what will happen ? as no oil will coming in and out of steering pump,it will soon jam up when engine is running. So i slightly modified it. Just removed the inner parts and left the shaft intact so that it moves freely without any oil.
Open this part by removing few bolts

After cover is removed,just remove other two circular parts simply pickying with hand,super easy

LAstly put the cover back and block both oil ports with silicon so that dust wont get in and get it jammed

This also is optional step.depends upon what type of steering pump/idler pulley comes with your engine.Also when buying engine prefer the one with idler pulley so you wont have to modify the pump or buy a new pulley

You will notice when using k20 oil pan over a k20 engine a gap is left between transmission and engine block.From here dust can enter the clutch and flywheel compartment.

So to cover it up Honda has a covering plate for it

Part Number: 21351-PNA-000
and is of Near 80$. So make sure your engine/tranny already has it.
Dont now why Honda clalls it 'torque converter case'
The gap is nicely covered by the plate

Please note that above step is totally optional.With HAsport mounts even k20 oil pans have good ground clearance.So you dont need to chnage it to k24 one. I did for my peice of mind because roads here have main holes the size of a crz(kidding) and spead brakers are build crazy high.

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Axles and half shafts

As our engine is nearly complete lets talk about the axles for the swap. Both HAsport and Insane shafts make the axles for this swap. HAsport axles are rated near 300 hp and Insane ones are 500 Hp. But i was not sure Insane axles were compaticle with HAsport mounts. i though Hasport makes the mounts,so they have the data and measurments to where the engine resides in engine bay and what are the exact menasurments of axles. But i wanted 500 hp rated axles as in future i plan to supercharge this swap.
Si i asked Brain @ HAsport that can he make 450-500 hp axles?

In another email he told that now they have Mounts for k24 transmission too and he sharred some useful info too regarding k24 swap

Brain is really a nice person. He sharred his valuable info to his competitor for sake of us,although the Insane shafts guy was sure that Brain wont share such into to his competitors in making axles.

So there you have it.Now you can order Insaneshafts axles 500 hp rated plug& play for our swap.So mention which engine you will be using when contacting them as the half shafts of k24 are longer than k20.
For my Pakistani fellows want to do the swap. The axles can be locally made easy. The axles guy will use the outers of your CRZ axles and inners of K-series. So keep in mind when buying engine,dont just discard the axles which came with that engine.
Update 22-Aug-2020 : It has come into my information that oem axles and halfshaft of civic ex/sedan (Fd2),2007-11 with k20z2 engine(same as k20a3) are direct bolt-ons. so you can get them online easy and no custom modification needed. Its not as FD2 Type R,which i am not sure might fit or not.
Cr-Z width is 1740 mm where as civic is 1753. So it makes sense. Just 1.3 cm difference is no biggy.
As i have tested the Honda Fit/Jazz axles are an inch shorter than crz. And from data on internet.the base RSX(k20a3) has width of 1725mm.So Honda Fit guys can try those out.

And when buying engine do confirm that half shaft is there. My engine half shaft got stollen while transportation to my city. So i had to import one.costed me 180$ :(
Part number is ???? but its Half shaft of Acura RSX type S manual transmission or Ep3. Always found used on ebay.124+103=227$ used.

Or you can buy Insane shafts in 250$

Remebr to order for manual transmission as auto ones are different.way differnt.THe auto one has silver metal body in which there is three screw pattern shown above. the manual ones have cast iron. The three bolt pattern is different in manual vs auto.
Halfshaft also called intermediate shaft.
Note: k24 half shaft is longer than k24 so axles of that side will be different for k24 or k20. This happneded to me as i am using a k20 half shaft in my Fit. I ordered axles from Insaneshafts and one axle was wrong. Luckyly i am using k24 Halfshaft in my crz. So i will swap that halfshaft to Fit and my Fit k20 one to that and it will work. These are located uder manu, 'axles' 'honda' than scroll to 'Insight'. You can order individual or both. Part numbers are
IS-038 and IS-018
Line Font Parallel Screenshot Auto part

Product Font Eyelash Auto part Audio equipment

These will work for An Insight, Fit, CRZ k-Swap using Hasport mounts.
Update: The Insaneshaft axles did not fit in my Fit. One axle is shorter and one is longer. So disappointed.
If your gear has LSD in it than you need to order Honda manual transmission fluid Advanced Protection not the simple Honda MTF.

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hondata Intake maifold gasket

Again an optional but worth it and cheap.The k-series intake manifold gasket is of metal.So all the heat from head transmits to intake which reduces performance. Hondata and other companies have made Phenolic gaskets which reduce intake temps very much,and its only 50$

Remeber the current cant flow from plastic.So you will have to pass a ground wire from any bolt from your intake manifold to chassis.Also recommended by Hondata

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I know you guys want to see the actual swap happening.Dont worry it will come.i have all the pics and videos saved. Near 500 pics.some time very diffiult to search from them what to choose. Swap already has happned three months back. But i want to document every detail so that one is totally prepared bofore going to a workshop.
Just a teaser picture when engine was ready...

A tip, engines are quite heavy.look what it did to the tiles on floor :p wife was not happy again :( So if you want to do it in home,choose some place which is strong enough.

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Block a port

You're truly doing the lords work.
Thanks a lot but i am afraid putting too much details will put fear in people that is is difficult work.infact it isn't. Its quite fun to do actually.
Back to build.
Another optional step.
Honda desinged a port from cylender four to coolant hose which goes inside to heat up car heater. purpose is to get car heater making heat early in very cold temperature. So if you live in sub zero temerature countries,dont block it. But if you live in warmer regions than blocking this port will run coolant a tad cooler and less work for radiator and fans to remove heat from coolant system.

On side of engine you will see heater hoses going into this structure

Remove it by removing four screws.

If you place a screw driver in poer you will see it leading to a hole in exhaust side of cylender 4

Other side of this port is totally blind(empty,leading nowhere)

Block the port with your favourite material. i used scotch brite wool guaze

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Throttle bodies

Meanwhile Original Recaro Seats arrived for The K-RZ( Present)

Back to build (Past)
As CRz is drive by wire throttle(DBW),so prefer the engine who has DBW throttle body like a k24a2/3. For those who dont know the differnce.DBW TB have an enlectronic grip on them

Drive by cable have some spring mechanism on which cable attaches

As you are aiming for performace now instead of economy,its better to upgrade throttle body. If engine did't came with DBW than you can buy RX8 throttle body from ebay,its 75 mm and is very cheap than K-tuned 70 mm Throttle body. Both will require an adapter plate made to fit them onto intake manifold.For those who wondering OEM TSX k24a2 is 64mm,some say 62mm.

These pics are from my Honda Fit k20 swap which is using k20 with Rx8 throttle body.Two wiere in throttle body grip also need re-positioned in thee grip,very easy.

On the k24 crz i am using OEM DBW throttle body for now.later on plan to use RX8 one.I also have by passed the coolant ports of throttle body as i live in a warm country.(Pakistan)
So this again reminds when choosing an engine, have a look at its throttle body and prefer the ones who have DBW throttle body.

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
A detour

Ok guys we are nearing the wiring section of this build.Remebr the three main goals of this thread
1: Budget build
2:Most things to a as D.I.Y to save the labor
3:Do all the wiring on your own
Before we go to main build to like to take you guys to a de-tour. than we will return to main story. There is very important lesson to be learnt in it.
The thing happned to me that i bought the engine online. The engine looked very clean on outside in pics

My mistake that i should have asked the guy to remove valve cover and show me inside pics.So thats the main lesson i want to convey to you people when buying engine. When i opened valve cover to do valve adjustments,look what i saw

Seems that this engine was sitting for years. Upon opening valve cover the oil sludge was so thick and solid on cams and other parts. i tied to clean it with every thing i got and lot of elbow grease but no success. I asked advice from and they all suggested i change the head.
Buy changing head meant i had to remove crank pulley (nighmare to do,see some videos online people trying) ,i had to buy new head gasket, new head bolts(Honda OEm are one time use only becasue they strach when tighten,some advice to measure them for the strech,but i did't want to take risk,so i used new ARp bolts instead).and ofcourse the whole new head i wil have to buy. So my mistake costed me near 700$-800$ plus a lot of worked had to be done,i mean a lot.You will see in the pics.
A simple checking method of inside of engine is to remove oil cap and look inside.This my CRz engine,look how clean the insides are

Yet it is dirty from outside

A more accurate method is to ask seller to remove valve cover and send pics.but again he can send pics of a diffenret clean engine to you.So its a tricky buy and most important in this swap. If you buy a good engine and pay slightly more it will save you many more $$$.

Again the stuff about to be discussed and shown is fairly advanced.Do not freak out,its totally optional as well. Depends upon which engine you buy.
Ok lets start tearing it down

To open cranck pulley,i locked the flywheel with a thick metal plate and two screws. One screw is tight to flywheel,other is free in the hole

With flywheel locked,i used a long breaker bar and an extention bar/cheater bar on crack fulley bolt using 19 mm socket,while two men were holding engine stable.

After the pulley was defeated,crank case opned.Note that all scrrews are not same lenght,Try to label them etc

After removing old head,i cleaned cylender walls with a thin sand paper and wd40

Some times the residue on wall is not visible,so feel with your fingers. and some time there is pigmentation on walls but no residue. again feeling with your fingers tell you. Dont over do the cleaning with sand paper or you will disturb the engine hone

After cleaning cylender wall,i washed the coolant pathways. Pouring water from one side and on exit side i used a pipe and tub to not make a mess on floor(already messed up :p)

time to install the new ARP head studs with ARP lube

1st hand tight them using an allen key,than use a Good torque wrench to tight them in specific pattern listed online.

Placing new head gasket

New engine head cleaned and ready to go

Dont forget to clean under side of it

Head placed over the engine block.

Dont forget these two dowel pins to place here for perfect head allingment

Make sure its well seated from all sides before tighening the bolts to studs

I think this post is getting too long.i will continue in next

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
VTC gear

Again a reminder that above and down posts are Optional.
Head studs tightened according to diagram

All these patterns are easy available online.The cams holders also have removal as well as tightening sequence.

AS you know k24's have 25 degree VTC gear just like our CRZ have.k20's have 50 degree. So why not modify the VTC gear when we are at it.(gains of 25-30 hp)

You will need a hex key set to open it up.only four bolts

k24 dont make power past 45 degree,and piston to wall contact danger is more with full 50 degree.Hondata also recommends to modify k24's to 45 degree. to open it up you will need to detach it from cams. There are thorugh aricles online on this topic.i will just show you some of pics when i modified it.
Opened the inside with hex key set

Dpnt freak out.its not so hard to do,and is optional

Look at the extra metal we need to shave off.Left is k20,right is k24

Hondata recommendation of shaving metal in milimeters.i hope you have vernier calliper and a marker.

You will need to take it to a machine shop to shave of metal or you can use grinder by placing it in a vice to hold it stady.
After all is done,close it

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Do machine shops not do hot-tanking anymore?
Yes they do,but not in my city.Its a small city. Another reason i did most work myself was mechanics and electrictions here dont know about these swaps.i just needed a shop who can just put the engine on stand and drop it in car.
And when i saw such dirty head i was worried about the rest of engine,thats why i went with idea of opening it up and see insides myself and clean them up.
I never seen a dirty head like this before said:
As my plan is to supercharge it so flow of head does't matter much,as blower will positively displace the air into engine.but good suggestion for those who are swapping it for NA power.
Back to build.
Preparing rocker assebmly to be placed on head.So much fun guys.I am glad the head was dirty or i wont have learnt so much.i was just a noob.Thanks to the online stuff on, clubrsx and and many more.

Some people try to hold it togather tighty with their hand to avoid faling off the springs but i used zip ties temporarily to held togather it when lifting from floor and placing it to head

Dont worry if it seperated or fall out,easy to put back

Posting these so that you people dont have to go online and search this stuff.
The head bolts tighened according to torque specs.if i remeber 82 or 92. A good torque wrench is vital.

The head has been build with supertech valvetrain to handle the boost of supercharger

Lubing the place where cams will rotate,any assembly lube or simple engine oil will also work. If you intend to install engine soon than use oil,if engine will be lying for some time,its better to use assmebly lube as it will stay longer where it need to be.All this lubrication to prevent 1st engine startup dry.

Cams placed over rocker assembly and lubed

cam holder have a lable on them,easy to remeber the order which they go in

Torqing the cam holder screws according to pattern

The removal pattern is differnt.
Again bad luck,the torque wrench didt click on one bold and i broken it inside the engine block :(

I searched online,some said one screw broken is ok. If i needed it removed i had to remove whole head,which meant using a new head gasket too.120$ plus it will take 20-30 days to ship to Pakistan. So i took whole engine to local machine shop who have got very talented men. They welded a metal rod with broken screw and extracted it from same hole it broke in :)(Yaaay we got some serious talent in Pakistan ).
Next installing the timing chain and get it proper timed.You can find stuff online how to do.i will quickly show some pics

Meanwhile locking timing chain tensioner with a pin

You will have to struggle here :p

Getting one click out of TCT

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Did you replace the crank bearings?

Btw, please bear with my dumbness, Let's say if I lose the marking on cam pulley against the crank's, how should I align the timing back?
No i didn’t touch the bottom end of engine .crank, pistons, rods etc were ok.
About your question, those markings do help but if you loose them ,no big deal. I lost them too when my timing chain skipped a tooth on crank pulley. but Honda has clear markings over crack pulley as well as cams and timing chain too. Very simple to do. Allign these two on the block and crack

Allign the markings on cams and chain.For k24,the mark of cam should be between the timing chain link as mine below. On k20 the mark shoul be under a link

But easier if two people doing because cams tend to fall out of timing if not held. Its tricky if some one do not want to open crank case and crank pulley. for example of some one only swaps cams. Than some recommend a bungee cord to hold timing chain tight so that it doest slack and jump a teeth at crank pulley. I did try that method but my chain skipped t tooth on crank, so I learned that you need a lot tension in that bungee cord to hold chain tight while you swap cams. Many nice videos on youtube etc etc on this topic of swapping k-series cams.

Looking now at pics,i remember how much i enjoyed working on the engine.
A tip: When you are cleaning engine,be sure to block/cover the head studs holes as that no debrie would enter,otherwise the head bolts will be not properly seated and head will lift and allow coolant and oil to mix.not good. In pic below i have used old head bolts to cover the holes.When engine was cleaned,i removed and used ARP bolts

Some torque specs
K20/24 Torque Specs
* Tire Lug Nuts 80 ft/lbs
* 12mm top nut (1) 33ft/lbs
* 10mm Strut tower Flange Bolts (3) 33 ft/lbs
* 16mm damper pinch bolts (2) 115ft/lbs
* 10mm tie rod nut (1) 32ft/lbs
* brake hose bracket (1) 16ft/lbs
* wheel sensor harness bracket (1) 7.2ft/lbs
* Axle nut 134 ft/lbs

* 10mm top nut 22ft/lbs
* 10mm strut tower top nuts (2) 43ft/lbs
* 12mm damper bottom bolt 45ft/lbs

Rear Camber Arm
* 12mm outer bolt 43ft/lbs
* 12mm inner bolt (2) 43ft/lbs
* 8mm wheel sensor harness bracket 16ft/lbs

Rear Tie Bar
* 12mm inner bolt 43ft/lbs

* 10mm top end link bolt [to bar] 28ft/lbs
* 10mm bottom end link bolt [to car] 29ft/lbs
* 10mm bracket bolt (2) 29ft/lbs

* 10mm top end link bolt [to bar] 28ft/lbs
* 10mm bottom end link bolt [to car] 29ft/lbs
* 8mm bracket bolt (2) 16ft/lbs
*Cylinder head bolts: 39Nm (29ft/lbs), 90 deg + 90 deg. (One extra 90 deg on new bolts.)
10,4,2,6,8 <<<Exhaust>>> 1,7,9,5,3
7,5,1,3,9 <<<Intake>>> 4,6,10,8,2
* Main cap bolts: 29Nm (22ft/lbs) and 56 deg.
* Girdle bolts (M8): 22Nm (16ft/lbs).
* Rod bolts: 29Nm (22ft/lbs) and 90 deg.
* Valve adjustment lock nut: 19Nm (14ft/lbs).
* Valve cover bolts: 12Nm (8.7ft/lbs).
* Chain tensioner bolts: 12Nm (8.7ft/lbs).
* Cam holder bolts: M8 22Nm (16ft/lbs), M6 12Nm (8.7ft/lbs).
* Intake Cam Gear: 112Nm (83ft/lbs).
* Exhaust Cam Gear: 69Nm (51ft/lbs).
* Timing chain cover: M6 12Nm (8.7ft/lbs).
* Crank Pulley: 245Nm (181ft/lbs).
* Flywheel: 118Nm (87ft/lbs).
* Spark plugs:23Nm (17ft/lbs).
* Valve Cover (6) 7ft/lbs
* Valve Lock nut 14ft/lbs
* Spark Plugs (4) 17ft/lbs

* Upper Pass engine mount Flange Nut 40 ft/lbs
* Rear Engine Mount 43 ft/lbs
* Front Engine Mount 47 ft/lbs
* Transmission Engine Mount 40 ft/lbs
* 14mm sub frame bolts (4) 76ft/lbs

* Oil Drain Plug: 29ft/lbs (33 ft/lbs Base models and EP3)
* Oil filter: 8.7ft/lbs
* Oil Pan: 8.7ft/lbs

* Drain plug: 29ft*lbs
* Filler plug: 33ft*lbs
* Flywheel cover: 9ft*lbs
* Flywheel: 90ft*lbs
* Pressure Plat/Clutch: 19ft*lbs

* 10mm Header Bolts/Nuts 33 ft/lbs
* 8mm Header to Down pipe spring nut 16 ft/lbs
* 10mm exhaust manifold bracket bolts 33ft/lbs
* O2 sensors 33ft/lbs
* Cat to mid pipe nut 25 ft/lbs

* Main bolt 90 ft/lbs
* Pressure plate 19 ft/lbs
* Step To Surface OEM Spec's .047in AKA..(47 Thousands Of An Inch)

Half shaft three bolts = 29 ft.lbs
Valve cover 7.2 lb/ft

Torue below 12 lb/ft is rather hand tight. Dont try torque wrench on very low torque specs.It will not click and break the screw

· Registered
K-RZ [email protected], 551 Hp 400 TQ
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
New clucth and flywheel

Now our engine timed,lets clean the Vtec solenoid and vtec pressure switch

Removing vtec solenoid

Vtec pressure switch

Cleaned them with toothbrush and break cleaner.

Those two were totally clogged.Without cleaning those you can imagined my VTEC ever have engaged. These two i recommned cleaning,These are on side of engine.easy to remove and install.
Some time the vtec switch doesn't fully seats,just slight tap with rubber mallet is needed. IF you will tigh the screw without it properly seated,it will break.

Presparing the crank case cover with honda bond.remeber some of its screws are label or mark them before removing

Yaay almost done.Lets install our new Stage 2 clutch and flywheel.:wink2:
The OEm clutch and flywheel was fine but as i intend to supercharge it so i upgraded to Competition Clutch new series stage II clutch with its flywheel

To open up flywheel bolts you will need to hold crank pulley on opposite side with a breaker bar who's other end would be on florr..If you remember we held flywheel when we were removing cranck pulley and also when tighening it.same goes here,just the opposite

Picture below shows no cranck pulley but to show the method to hold it

Dont forget to place pilot bearing in

Acura 22103-PNA-003 Clutch Pilot Bearing 9$ only

Flywheel installed, Bolts tightened to 92lb/ft in zig zag pattern with torque wrench.

You will need star shapped extension key to tighten them.I advice buy a set of these sockets too.

Finally the clutch and pressure plate installed.

1 - 20 of 135 Posts