[Fediej]

Clean! How diffilcut was the install for the manifold?

It wasn't. Set aside about an hour, follow the instructions, don't rush.

 

[ZuR-Cee]

It wasn't. Set aside about an hour, follow the instructions, don't rush.

Ok! Any extra parts I might need? before I proceed with my purchase.. in case something might break etc. heard the map sensor needs to be rplaced when doing this mod.. would just like some confirmation

 

[Fediej]

I suggest reading this whole thread and make your decisions from there. I personally didn't need anything extra.

 

[ZuR-Cee]

I suggest reading this whole thread and make your decisions from there. I personally didn't need anything extra.

Right on! Thanks!

 

[ZuR-Cee]

whats the small hose thats connected on the back of the manifold chamber? I accidentally broke mine while doing this swap now its a tad bit shorter, does the length matter? its still connects from point A to B though.

 

[Fediej]

whats the small hose thats connected on the back of the manifold chamber? I accidentally broke mine while doing this swap now its a tad bit shorter, does the length matter? its still connects from point A to B though.

Without seeing it just going off memory I believe that's a vacuum line for your brakes. If everything is still connected it should be fine. But if it's super stretched you might want to get a new one just in case.

 

[ZuR-Cee]

Without seeing it just going off memory I believe that's a vacuum line for your brakes. If everything is still connected it should be fine. But if it's super stretched you might want to get a new one just in case.

Thanks for the quick reply! I do have photos if you dont mind checking them out. it connects directly to the back of the intake manifold chamber

Without seeing it just going off memory I believe that's a vacuum line for your brakes. If everything is still connected it should be fine. But if it's super stretched you might want to get a new one just in case.

Without seeing it just going off memory I believe that's a vacuum line for your brakes. If everything is still connected it should be fine. But if it's super stretched you might want to get a new one just in case.

Without seeing it just going off memory I believe that's a vacuum line for your brakes. If everything is still connected it should be fine. But if it's super stretched you might want to get a new one just in case.

Thanks for the quick reply! it connects directly to the back of the plastic intake manifold chamber.. just curious because my install was a fail. :-(

 

[Fediej]

Pretty sure that's a brake vacuum line. If you follow it to the other end you'll see for sure. How did you "break" it and how was the intake chamber swap a "fail"?

 

[ZuR-Cee]

Pretty sure that's a brake vacuum line. If you follow it to the other end you'll see for sure. How did you "break" it and how was the intake chamber swap a "fail"?

It pretty much tore as I was trying to remove it so I ended up just cutting it short. as for the chamber once I had it on when I started the car it started sputtering while in idle mode not to sure what went wrong double checked all the flange bolts and started it up again and still had the same problem.

 

[96firephoenix]

as for the chamber once I had it on when I started the car it started sputtering while in idle mode not to sure what went wrong double checked all the flange bolts and started it up again and still had the same problem.

Did it act like that after you reconnected that vacuum line? the line might have a kink in it.

 

[ZuR-Cee]

Did it act like that after you reconnected that vacuum line? the line might have a kink in it.

not sure because I put everything back the way it was on the old one. the only thing that changed was that vacuum line it got shorter. but the RB1 intake chamber could also be the culprit because its second hand, I really cant see any cracks in it though.

 

[Fediej]

not sure because I put everything back the way it was on the old one. the only thing that changed was that vacuum line it got shorter. but the RB1 intake chamber could also be the culprit because its second hand, I really cant see any cracks in it though.

Check for a plugged port (in particular where that little vacuum line goes) on the GE8 chamber, bugs like to crawl up in there and well, die and turn into stuff that plugs up things.

 

[ZuR-Cee]

Check for a plugged port (in particular where that little vacuum line goes) on the GE8 chamber, bugs like to crawl up in there and well, die and turn into stuff that plugs up things.

Right on! thanks for all the help, I have an air compressor I can blast thru it see if that clears up the problem. I’ll keep you posted, thanks again!

 

[Deityimp]

I'm so happy with the GE8 manifold swap! I felt like it gave a noticible increased to response and acceleration between 3-4k RPM, which was previously kind of a dead zone. The addition of a Civic R18 Throttle Body was a complete game changer tho!! Check out the build - cheaper alternative to spoon throttle body , 55mm civic...

 

[chrisrkooz]

DO. THIS. MOD. I am not experienced whatsoever and yet regardless of the issues I had, I still felt like the difficulty was low. It's harder to mess this up if you just take your time.
Seriously though - if you own a 'z then do this. You will not regret it.

Got my manifold for $37 from a '09 fit at a nearby junkyard. Pardon the dirty engine bay ill clean it up someday.
Perks of this mod:
Acceleration from a stop feels better? Car is definitely more responsive. Gotta drive more to be sure. I did have minor complications due to inexperience but nevertheless I felt confident this was something I could do.

Tips:
Take your time.
Torque all bolts to the correct spec and just read the other posts to find important details.
Don't forget to slide the clamp back on to the line in the back or else you'll feel like an idiot like I did when the car wouldn't stay running.
Expect most of your time to go to getting the MAP sensor off of your old manifold
Don't be afraid to ask questions!

 

[KingAyalThe1st]

Lets keep this short and simple...

1. Remove your stock or cold air intake. (6mm socket and 10mm socket)

2. Unplug anything that is attached to the manifold and sensors.

3. Remove the intake manifold cover. (pull up)

4. Remove the 5 bolts holding the intake manifold to the aluminum manifold. (12mm socket)

5. Remove the throttle body by unbolting the 4 bolts that hold the Throttle body (12mm Socket)

6. Remove the 12mm bolt inbetween the throttle body and the valve cover just in front of the throttle body(12mm socket)

7. Unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the manifold to the mounting bracket.

8. Once the manifold is off peel off the rubber gaskets and put them on the new
manifold.

9. Remove the sensor on the stock manifold and place it on your new manifold (This is the hardest part. The screw is on pretty tight using a phillips screw driver. It actually took me 20 mins but getting that phillips screw took me another 10 mins since it was really on there. I would suggest loosing it up when the car is warm and then working on the manifold after it has already cooled down.

10. Reverse all steps and your finished.

30 mins!

Pictures to come soon... still uploading!

Guys after the cam shaft install is necessary to do a ecu tuning and how to do that plz explain