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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lets keep this short and simple...

1. Remove your stock or cold air intake. (6mm socket and 10mm socket)

2. Unplug anything that is attached to the manifold and sensors.

3. Remove the intake manifold cover. (pull up)

4. Remove the 5 bolts holding the intake manifold to the aluminum manifold. (12mm socket)

5. Remove the throttle body by unbolting the 4 bolts that hold the Throttle body (12mm Socket)

6. Remove the 12mm bolt inbetween the throttle body and the valve cover just in front of the throttle body(12mm socket)

7. Unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the manifold to the mounting bracket.

8. Once the manifold is off peel off the rubber gaskets and put them on the new
manifold.

9. Remove the sensor on the stock manifold and place it on your new manifold (This is the hardest part. The screw is on pretty tight using a phillips screw driver. It actually took me 20 mins but getting that phillips screw took me another 10 mins since it was really on there. I would suggest loosing it up when the car is warm and then working on the manifold after it has already cooled down.

10. Reverse all steps and your finished.

30 mins!

Pictures to come soon... still uploading!
 

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Is there any difference between the basis fit manifold, and the actual manifold from the fit? I know it's been discussed, I just can't remember.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nobody has dyno'd this as a whole since we all have other supporting mods. This by it self would be a larger gain then just a bored throttle body at a 1/4 of the cost. I've noticed a huge difference just bolting this on along with my intake exhaust spark plugs and downpipe. Adding this along with it made a big difference to the response of the car.
 

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Nobody has dyno'd this as a whole since we all have other supporting mods. This by it self would be a larger gain then just a bored throttle body at a 1/4 of the cost. I've noticed a huge difference just bolting this on along with my intake exhaust spark plugs and downpipe. Adding this along with it made a big difference to the response of the car.
Does it still get a little unstable in the higher RPMs?


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As a fact, Honda Uses the exact oil filter from the 1970's to present for all its Acura and Honda Models. Also, the switch-gear (turn signal lever, base model clock radio, etc.) appear interchangeable thru the Civic, Fit, Insight and CR-Z models. Why would Honda make a one-of-a kind intake manifold chamber for the CR-Z, while it had a supposedly better intake manifold chamber design existing in its mega-mass-produced Honda Fit being sold in huge numbers from Europe to Thailand to Brazil to the United States? I believe that Honda has a very rigid design philosopy of not 're-inventing the wheel' if not required.
 
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