Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums banner
121 - 140 of 154 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
I would HIGHLY recommend this mod if you have air and exhaust I cannot say without them as they where already done on my car prior to this mod but with this manifold its like a whole new car even with the clutch issues Im having the engine is FAR more responsive and it puts power where it really needs it(3000 - 5000 rpm) I have always felt like the crz had good low end and good top end but crap mid
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,669 Posts
Went with Textured metallic on the manifold itself with some Honda silver and San Marino red to give the "i-vtec" logo more of a badge look. Dark Cherry red metallic on the flange plate. All Duplicolor brand.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,669 Posts
Modifying BasisSportTony's directions slightly:
Note 1: removal of the cowl may make it easier to access the 2 rear most bolts(step 5), but is not necessary at all.

Note 2: Prior to tear down/install, inspect the new manifold for damage (cracks, etc) and/or obstructed ports (vacuum line). *ahem*

Tools: 12mm, 10mm and possibly 6mm sockets with ratchet and extension
Phillips screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver or nut driver for hose clamps
4mm hex key (if you have the K&N Typhoon intake)
Pliers (I used a 90 degree needle nose)
Ok, start from the right and work left:

1. Disconnect the MAF sensor. Remove your stock or cold air intake, just the tube leading to the throttle body may be enough (6mm socket and 10mm socket, screw/nut driver, 4mm hex key).

2. Disconnect the sensors that are attached to the manifold/throttle body. Unbolt the Purge Joint bracket. This will just hang free with the Fit manifold installed unless you come up with something custom.

3. Unbolt the throttle body (12mm Socket 4 bolts).

4. Remove the bolt between the throttle body and the valve cover (12mm socket).

5. Remove the 2 bolts(10mm, iirc) that hold the manifold to the mounting bracket (towards rear of engine).

6. Remove the IMA manifold cover by just pulling up on it. This will NOT be re-installed on Fit manifold.

7. Remove the 5 bolts holding the upper intake manifold to the lower aluminum manifold (12mm socket).

8. Remove the upper manifold/plenum. Push away from you slightly as you pull up to clear the 2 alignment pegs.

9. Before walking too far away disconnect the brake vacuum line from the rear of the manifold. Use the pliers to loosen and move clamp and a strong and steady pull by hand to remove the vacuum hose.

10. Once the manifold is off peel off the rubber gaskets and put them on the new
manifold. Or use the new ones from the kit that you may have previously ordered (recommended, not required).

11. If the Fit manifold didn't come with the MAP sensor, remove that from the CR-Z manifold. This might be the hardest part, the Phillips screw is on pretty tight. Loosening it up when the car is warm and then working on the manifold after it has cooled down might help. Install on your new manifold.

12. To install new manifold, Start at step 9 and work back through to step one.
I suggest snugging up the 2 bolts from step 5 before tightening any of the rest for ease of alignment. Consult the torque spec graphics found elsewhere in this thread.

Double check electrical/sensor connections. *cough*

It really is only 30-45 minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Update

Pretty satisfied with the install; very straight forward
No issues driving;
Noticed a difference on acceleration - Feels smoother
I have the CVT so no noticeable difference other than downshifting with paddles feel more "secure?" "stronger?" can't really describe it;
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,669 Posts
Pretty satisfied with the install; very straight forward
No issues driving;
Noticed a difference on acceleration - Feels smoother
I have the CVT so no noticeable difference other than downshifting with paddles feel more "secure?" "stronger?" can't really describe it;
I like what you did with the color choice on the manifold, but I think you may need another cross brace, the chassis might still be able to flex ever so slightly. :wink2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,669 Posts
What intakes are you guys using with the manifold swap? Will a CRZ intake still fit or do you have to go to a Fit intake or something custom?
You can still use the stock CR-Z air intake if you want but many are using after market. Scroll through the posts and check out the pictures to see all the options. Mugen, Takeda, K&N, etc. The performance benefits over the stock intake are pretty much the same with the after market kits. Pretty much just depends on what look you're going for and what your budget is. And maybe a little on what your future plans for the Z are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
You can still use the stock CR-Z air intake if you want but many are using after market. Scroll through the posts and check out the pictures to see all the options. Mugen, Takeda, K&N, etc. The performance benefits over the stock intake are pretty much the same with the after market kits. Pretty much just depends on what look you're going for and what your budget is. And maybe a little on what your future plans for the Z are.
Cool! I wasn't sure if the new manifold would call for a intake diameter matching the same with the Fit or not. Really more curious than anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,669 Posts
Cool! I wasn't sure if the new manifold would call for a intake diameter matching the same with the Fit or not. Really more curious than anything.
Nope, the outside diameters all stay the same. There are some that have swapped in a bigger throttlebody or sent the stock one to MaxBore to be worked over and rebuilt to be bigger inside. I'll be doing that at some point this year. But even then, the outside diameters and couplings still stay the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
my uk part arrived today,
on initial impressions it looks exactly like the US part.
However I noticed the uk port on the runners were smaller then the US one due to some excess plastic,
I have bored this out now and have the ports pretty much as big as I can go without causing any structural issue.

for the purpose of the global crz community I will install it soon and see if any difference is noted.

doubt I will get any dyno proof..
So I recently became a Honda CR-Z owner and was thinking about doing this mod. Due to me living in Europe, I don't have access to the RB1 part (only RB0), which I can buy extremely cheaply used (converted to USD around 10$ + shipping). Do you have any pictures regarding the porting you did? I'm curious to see, what exactly I have to do, in order to make it work. Also, does anyone else knows other differences between RB0 and RB1?
 
121 - 140 of 154 Posts
Top