Abdul's k24 or k20 Swap build/Guide with Complete Wiring diagrams

Gear box cover and exhaust

As i told earlier that its best to use CRZ shifter mechanism coupled with accord v6 manual tranny shifter cables.thats easiest and best route. but as i used type R shifter so i had to modify(a lot) gearbox plastic cover too. Leason learnt the hard way

After many trial and errors.removing the hitting parts


Important Note:
For k series 6 speed lSD trannies like k20z3 or DC5(y2m3) or NPR3 this type of shifter is needed where the main cable is attached to top of gear lever. i .e. by moving shifter in forward direction the shifter cable also goes forward.



But for non lSD or 5 speed transmission(W2M5 or RPD-6)or base rsx, what i found is that the shifter required must have the link cable under the shifter.so that when the shifter is moved forward the cable turns backward.i.e it moves 180 degree opposite. You can understand with the pics.



So this is important when you are ordering/buying your transmission,buy the shifter and its respective cables accordingly.Now you can recognize from pics on ebay what will you require on your tranmission.

No matter what i tried the cup holders kept hitting the shifter cables.



Atlast i cut them off with sharp knife0


To fill up the space i used a cardboard piece

Pinted it up.One peice is needed. I cut another one just in case..

The end result


Exhaust:

I already have discussed much about header.Lets quickly cover rest of exhaust and the touching areas where you should look.
The main area is sway bar. Universal K-headers do not have the clearance for it in CRZ.
I have a custom made bad heaer which hits the sway bar. Here the exhaust shops are horrible.The dont have facility to bend pipes beyond 2 inches.


Note:If you mount engine to lower hole of HAsport mounts,the chances of headers hitting sway bar increase.in above picture the header had good clearnace when engine was on upper hole of mounts.after i did my oil pump/pan mode i mounted engine to lower position and the header start hitting sway bar.(not fault of exhaust shop as they made the size when engine was on top position).

Here is what bend is needed.Thanks Olliver/Rustbucket for next few pics.I have taken from his build.




I already have discussed the difference of RHD and LHD




Rest of exhaust is same in RHD and LHD.


Something else arrived (present):wink2:

Jhin said:

nice build, out of curious, so what you do with the leftover parts?

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Ha Ha. The left over parts are not much.The CRZ engine with mounts,ecu and wiring. and IMA battery and cable. All laying around in home. Wife has given me deadline of one month to clear them. So lets see 0 I have sold IMA battery to someone for free.
The engine no one wants because its too complex to swap it into a non hybrid etc etc.
Other parts if some one wants,just Pm me. Intake,wiring,ecu,axles etc etc

Meanwhile the headlights project completed







The are RGB but i like red.I will try other combinations when i get some time. The camera doesn't grap the whole look of them when they are lit at night.I reality they look very nice.

Evaporative system(EVAP) and Fuel level Indicator Fix
(Read Update at end,3jan,2020)

As we know EVAP system regulates the pressure inside fuel tank and so the fuel level indicator on the dashboard work accurate. As now the fuel tanks are made of plastic so if for some reason the fuel tank is shrunken the fuel level will rise and the indicator in the dahsborad will show more fuel than actually is in the fuel tank. This situation can happen if the EVAP not not working properly and the fuel pump keeps pumping fuel creating a vacuum which caused the tank to shrink.
The opposite will also happen if excessive pressure builds if EVAP purge system is not working.So the fuel tank will expand and the fuel gauge will read less than actual fuel.

For the K-swap,the OEM CRZ EVAP purge valve directly bolts on to Cvic si wiring. So what the problem ?
Problem lies in flashpro.When the ECU is flashed with a 'race callibrations'(Map based,which we will use mostly on a swapped k-series engine) than the fuel level indicator on dash will not work accurately. There are several complaints over the net
I am linking some here,here,here,here here

but Hondata has refused to solve them by saying its a minor issue and people should not use race callibrations on street car(what a lame reason)
Here is some pic showing what it looks like.




The K-series came with lot differnt evap valves. Just use your OEM CRZ one.


Here is how i setup mine.Just mount the vlave somewhere suitable and connect the hoses.


CRz EVAp cannister is shown down below which is under the car. In my Honda Fit its big one inside engine compartment.Below is picture of my Honda Fit k20 EVAP system.Look how big the EVAp canister is.




So for normal k-swap users your work is done here. For users who still want to use Flashpro and its 'race callibrations' read the solutions below.

Solutions:
1: Aftermarket gas caps that hold pressure but allow inward air still suck the tank in, but will release once the vacuum over comes the caps vent check valve.


2: Use AFM or hybrid callibrations: drivability is a lot smoother in AFM/Hybrid callibration.So if ypu dont want to boost your engine in future stick with these. So if you choose this route, you will need MAAF sensor. So order one i have linked already and wire it as shown in wiring section.

3:Ktuner: Its cheap and has almost all functions.

5: Vent to atmosphere under hood. Some time smell of fuel comes in cabin and also not solves the problem completely (may not be legal also)

6: Return fuel line. solves the problem but expensive and overkill until you want to boost upto 500 hp

My recommendations are K-tuner route or flashpro AFM/hybrid callibration.


Found another solution(Jan 2020)
there is a manual evap pressure controlled device mounted on EVAP cannister.
Just unclip this hose and put some filter on it.This is located under fuel cap side of car.behind the rear axle and Tyre.

This pic shows some ghetto method and a custom foam filter


If you suck air,it allows from one end,but if you blow out,it let go after some pressure. Remove it by unbolting two screws,it has labeled on it as to which pipe will connect to fuel tank.the other pipe you need to vent under hood or under car etc where ever you want. i mounted it near brake reservoir and attach a filter too so that it will not suck dirty air into fuel tank.



Or this type of filter which comes with a boost solenoid.


So now fuel tank gauge works normal. what ever you use,ktuner or hondata flashpro.
So this covers almost all the technical details one will face in a k-swap crz or a Fit or a modern Honda.
A Tip: To burb coolant system of extra air i have found this very useful. When putting coolant in radiator remove this hose,as the coolant goes in the system the air escapes from here.keep adding coolant till it comes from here.


If not done by this method the air inside the system will circulate once engine is started,than engine should be shutdown and waited for coolant to slightly cool down,than open radiator cap carefully with a towel on it. Lets the extra air escape. Than again add more coolant.repeat the cycle again. So it takes few cycles of this. But with above hose removed,it takes just one.
I will update 1st page with total cost and the links to the pages for easier navigation.
As we know the online picture with time get deleted. So for ones who want to k-swap in future,you may save this thread offline. I have saved uptill now and have placed it in my dropbox shared folder.(for some reason firefox/chrome are not saving the pics but Internet explorer does nice job)
Dropbox

Google drive

Wiring
Next i may post the other stuff like exhaust, wheels,supercharger etc etc
Note: If you want to install coolant temperature sensor in upper radiator hose,its adapter size would be 32mm(TSX upper hose)(CRZ OEM upper hose has 28mm adapter size)

The height

As IMA battery is removed which is near 80Lb(36kg,yes i have weighted) so the rear is lifted and looks ugly.Almost 2 inch increase in rear height and half inch decrease in front height.


So use some lowering springs in rear or coilovers.
I had my Fit Tanabe Coform-R coilovers laying around so i used those. As the height is different so instead of shocks bottoming out i used spacers.










And here the K-RZ is ready




Do remember to do a clucth pedal adjustment.as its new engine and transmission now,so the engaging point might have changed. Also do remeber to do valve adjustments after 1st 1000 km

Lets do some "looks" shall we ?

Been busy with the "Looks" now. Rear Bumper cut and Guaze fitted.


Been trying deiffernt combinations


and now the paint job. Battleship grey mate color






Rear lights blacked out with paper and done


Next i will install those black cut plastic on the rear mesh guazes.

k24Turbo sidwinder built

Been busy lately with the turbo sidewinder manifold customization.Atlast its complete.


Original plan was to supercharge but due to the recent increase in $ rate that will cost near 7400$. So i am choosing turbo route.
The turbo is big one T04E. and the clearance is excellent.Just need to tug by wiring


Pure SS manifold and whole exhaust system






I am waiting for intercooler,injectors and some minor parts. I will convert to return fuel system. I will share that build too.

Intercooler and piping

I know its been while i updated my build its because i am waiting for my cermatic coating header paint to arrive from USa,it takes 1.5 month to reach here.
meanwhile regarding the intercooler piping there is no space from engine belt side to pass a pipe so i had to import an intercooler who has same side In and Out. Now the pipes will pass under the headlight.


But CRZ has plenty space behind front bumper,you can fit two intercoolers and still fit the bumper easy.

2nd reason for delay is i was busy with my Honda Fit build.Its also going turbo but the space is too tight behind the bumper.So i converted from a full size radiator and AC condensor to half ones.So far its works nice but we will see in summers how half radiator and a small Ac condensor works.(now AC condensor has a fan so i hope it will work ok).


AC condensor has slim fan as the space behind is tight. Radiator has a full shroud fan behind.Its a two row radiator.
Now i have much space for intertercoolar.(remeber this is Fit,not the CRZ in this pic)

Clearance of Ac fan.(i have similar fan on CRZ becasue space behind that is also tight)


Planty space behind radiator fan on transmission side.its a full size fan.Both CRZ and Fit has planty clearance here.


I i hope my ceramic paint arrives this weak. i am so keen on starting the CRZ.turbo feed has been installed in oil sandwitch adapter.


Meanwhile the garage looks like a mess.


I also have updated Dropbox folder regarding all the offline save of this build upto page 7 of this build.I advise download and save a copy of that becasue some time pictures get deleted from hosting sites.
Dropbox folder
Select option 'Download" on top right corner and it will download as a Zip file.extract and open.its 128 mb download uptill now.

5 speed RSX/Ep3 transmission also works

SheepGeeks said:

Thanks for the files!!

Btw, do you know which hasport mount suitable for K20Z2 on CRZ? I'm thinking to go budget K-series and frank the head with k20a3 or 4piston head.

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It does not depend upon the engine you use.its more dependant on transmission you use as two HAsport mounts bolt to the transmission.On using k20's engine blocks you may not need the side CR-V side mount bracket. but using any other or a k24 block may need use of that side bracket.i already mentioned in initial posts.Rest k24 blocks are 1.5" taller than k20. No other difference in sides.

Now i remember i installed k20a3 ep3 5 speed tranny (base RSX aslo same) and it was also bolt on.
So now we have another budget option. Instead of using expensive LSD tranny of k20z3 or k20R trannies which cost bnear 3000$ , you can use base rsx 5 speed tranny in only 800$. and more beauty about that is it will work with CR-Z oem shifter and cables.
For 6 speed lSD one you need type R shifter and cable or a 6 speed Accord v6 engine manual tranny cables.So it also saves all those costs as well plus the labour.
Only thing we had to mdoify was just trim a metal peice as one cr-z shifter cable was an inch shorter.
This also applies to Ge8 Honda Fit aswell as Gp4 Fit hybrid.
another thing we found that Cr-Z shifter is a bolt on on Ge8 Fit (even though the Fit was CVT to begin with :smile2
we are using RPD-6 5 speed trasnmission which by internet is equivalant to base rsx/ep3 5 speed manual transmission. It has longer gears and also longer final drive.so its much smooth. i love it.
i installed it because with turbo i will need longer gears.

After trimming the metal


we had to custom make a small metal bracket to lock the clip holding it.


Another view


So here you have it,another couple thousands saved in k-swaping the CR-Z/Fit:wink2:
i think now its doable in even 4000$ or even less..

SheepGeeks said:

Nice info there.. I never know the 5speed gearbox on CSX & JDM FD base have the same shifter and shifter cable as OEM crz.

In that case, the hybrid racing's short shifter for crz should work on the 5 speed k swap probably.

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The Type R and Civic Si shifters are different becuase their gear lever works dirrently when going in 6th and in reverse gear. we only changed the 5 speed tranny first and hoped that the already installed Type R shifter and cables will work but the 6th and reverse were opposite and other gears were also shifting in lelf-right manner rather than front and back. We did not had any other thing laying around and finding a compatible 5 speed shifter would have taken days because we dont have this car/engine here.
So as a last option we tried and installed the CRZ shifter and calbles and every thing works like charm.
Although the CRZ shifter is a 6 speed but it works just fine,but has no 6th gear now. So dont worry that how the 6 speed CRZ shifter will work with the 5 speed transmission 0

So now if we want to use CR-Z own shifter we do not have to use Accord V6 manual 6 spd transmission. We now have cheaper alternative.

Ceramic painting headers and downpipe

Hello guys,its been a while i updated. Was waiting the ceramic coating to arrive and now its here.without further delay


I am using VHT flameproof.
and downpipe also


In a turbo setup you cannot over do heat insulation.the more the better.so i coated them outside aswell as inside.


Dried with dheat gun and now curing under sun.but real cure will be when the car starts and they warm up enough


Meanwhile the carbon hood arrived from Japan.




Plan is to install the trubo and all exhaust piping and start it.check for any leaks etc etc. after that install the intercooler piping and oil catch can,all the vaccumm pipes etc.
So i hope to start her in a day or two InshaAllah

Intercooler fitting and piping

Hello, i have been busy with intercooler and the piping. I used universal piping.

You will need a cutter and a grinder if you want to do this D.I.Y


It took all my sunday from 12 pm to 12 am. i also installed Hondata 4 port boost solenoid




Trial and error

had to take in mind the bumper fittment and head light clearance


The pipe whihc is cut doest have beaded end any more.so the coupler may slip.so i used a pliar and modifies it to make the beads over the cut ends. Here is a youtube link to a useful video.

One 90 degree bend was used a s such. Other i had to cut a U bend to half. and some staight pipe part.
with same In/Out intercooler there is lot less piping needed which will help lot reduce turbo lag


here is final product


I used a thick metal plate and drilled two holes in it and bolted the intercooler with front bar.very solid


had to shave off some metal


When ever you cut/shave metal,to avoid rust, paint it. i use this clear coating from Rustolium.


Now the piping is so short as you can see




Hood clearance is also excellent


Also clears my self made rain guard


Some of you may have noted the welded SS pipes.


Its to further reduce the number of silicon couplers.as silicon coupler flex and expand (at high boost).
So when i got all the sizes,i made SS steel piping of same and welded togather.now there are only three coupler cold size and three on hot side of piping.

Hondata 4 port solenoid and PCV catch can

The bumper clearance is also excellent. You could fit a cat in front of intercooler and it wont tough the front grille.




The cahrge pipes also have planty space between the bumper


Hondata 4 port boost control solenoid:
Since i aim of near 550 hp so traction will be issue in 1st gears. thats why i installed hondata 4 port solenoid,so i can control how much boost i want to each gear.

Its light weight,so i used a cable tie and bouble sticky taoe behind to fix it




Oil catch can on PCV
Since it boosted now so the crank case pressure will be more and there would be no vacuum in the intake manifold.so turbo seals would blow the oil out and fail.thats why its now must to vent it to atmosphere or into exhaust with venturi device but i opted for simple approach.



its a simple device i ordered from aliexpress/ebay

talhasadiq700 said:

Hey, where did you get this bumper from and how much did it cost u?

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Which bumper are you talking about ?
Back ?


Or front ?