I CAN HELP!! I just did this mod with a bigger bore throttle body so I have some answers.

1- I disconnected the battery (negative side) and installed the parts over a couple weeks, so my car sat without it all put back together for some time. I started it up and let it run...no engine codes or anything, so that was a good sign. it should be the same for yours.

2- no long term damage that I have heard of. I believe its just a matter of getting the computer to recognize the larger amount of air flow, that's how you get the most out of it as you said, but there is no harm in just parts addition without a tune. I have still not been to a shop for a tune and it runs great without throwing any codes back at me or making any funny noises.

3- I am in the US so I have zero idea on that one, but a Honda specialty shop should be able to get it done for you.

Even with the throttle body mod I did I have had no trouble with the change in parts, although a tune is in the future I'm happy with the result. Deeper sound and more pep when under acceleration in 2-4th gear. I haven't taken it on the highway yet as I drive a work truck most of the time, but all in all worth it even without the tune so far.

Hope this helps.

 

In addition to what 11-Z said, the only tuner I know of in the UK that has tuned the CR-Z with KTuner is TDI. I don't know their location, but Martin had his tuned there (and he had a 2013 with KTuner plus the Sprintex supercharger,) and he was quite pleased with the tune.

http://www.crzforum.com/forum/cr-z-build-threads/57554-martint-s-cr-z-build-blog-22.html#post1266937

...or Dynodaze, LTD.:
http://www.crzforum.com/forum/aftermarket-crowd/48586-sprintex-thread-101.html#post1021122

 

That's Great 11-Z and Litz, thank you. Hoping to get these under way soon so will keep you posted how I get on with it all.
Anyone know where the model number number may be for the Manifold. When I purchased the car it had already a few mods done and I keep finding little things done to it. Was wondering if maybe the manifold may have already been done as it came with a K&N drop in filter in the air box and already seems to breath quite freely.

 

I'd have to look on my OEM Z Intake chamber to see where there might be a stamp with a part number. I think there is a thread for a DIY install somewhere here on the forums you can search that would give you the number. If your engine cover that says "IMA" on it is still on the car, the GE8 mod has not been done. Because of the extra chamber on the GE8 manifold, that cover will not fit anymore.

It will be an easy install for sure. Mine just took a little longer than I had hoped because I replaced the throttle body as well and had to remove all the vacuum lines (which are a pain), and I work long hours on an infrastructure project that may or may not be losing money, so I get home most of the time right around dark...and I work Saturdays. Sundays are for golf.

Word to the wise, be careful with the MAP sensor screw that mounts it to the GE8 manifold. I had trouble lining it up so I took the sensor out for just a second....and plop went the screw down into the manifold. You may want to purchase a .3" diameter (8mm) magnet before hand. I learned the hard way.

 

Part number is PA6-GF30 and it is stamped on the manifold, but it is stamped on the underside of the flange where it meets the intake runners and not visible when installed.

i'd follow 11-Z's method: if there is a "Honda i-VTEC" cast into the manifold itself it is from the Fit, the Z manifold has no lettering cast into it as it was printed on the clip-on manifold cover.

 

So here’s a strange one. Having now managed to get hold of the Takeda intake this week and discovering that the previous owner did the air box resonator delete and speaking to a fellow member on here about it, I just thought I would ask the question to the manufacturer to see if there may be a way round it.. For example, running a new shaped section of flexi pipe down to where the box may locate or even just fitting a blanking plate over the bottom hole when it connects to the resonator.
The answer I got back was “the stock resonator box is not used and the connection is not required once you install the Takeda intake”.
I have written back to them saying its written differently in the fitting instructions (page 8 step 13) and I’m waiting to hear back. In the mean time has anyone else fitting there’s without connecting the resonator?

 

No--when I had my Takeda installed, I used the resonator with it and recommend using it, since it helps with smoothing out the air flow into the intake by giving any back pressure a place to settle (and not collide with incoming air. Just me, maybe, but they did spend some time and energy designing and locating it, so keep it activated if you can.

 

Exactly, why spend all that money doing R+D to then just go, nah! dont bother. It makes me laugh as I heard back again from them saying that blanking off the bottom hole would be sufficient.
I think I'm just going to try and source a resonator box and re-instate. No point waiting this long to get hold the Takeda and then not get the best out of it.

 

Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't air come into the filter from the lower air dam that way? If you block that off won't you be limiting your Air Supply to just what's coming from the upper opening/grill area. (Cue the 70's power ballad...)

 

So I finally sourced a resonator box and got the intake fitted and have now been running it for a couple of weeks and done a few hundred miles. Ummm, not sure if its what I was expecting based on what I had read up on it. The car seems very hesitate at low revs, particularly when pulling away and seems very laggy until above 3,500 rpm. I've check all connections and all ok. Is this normal for the intake or could the car still be adjusting the change over?

 

Have you only done the Takeda so far? I didn't notice any major gains or losses or other issues when I installed the K&N Typhoon other than the improved sound but after swapping in the Fit manifold there are definitely gains throughout the Rev range. Makes a great combo.

 

Have you only done the Takeda so far? I didn't notice any major gains or losses or other issues when I installed the K&N Typhoon other than the improved sound but after I added the Fit manifold there were noticeable gains throughout the Rev range. Makes a great combo.

Yep only Takeda so far. I do already have a custom exhaust on it with the first cat (muffler) removed. The Fit Manifold is next on my list, but they are so expensive to get hold of in the UK - about $260!! Any other suggestions for the intake?!?

 

I have the K&N Intake and Fit Intake Manifold enroute to me as I type

 

Have you found the torque specs for the bolts that you will be taking off for the intake manifold yet ? I kinda want to collect all the info and tips before getting or changing mine

 

 

Never mind, someone had beat me to posting those diagrams lol

 

To be fair, Fadiej beat me to it.

 

Fediej /forum/images/CRZForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_wink.png

 

I have the Takeda intake and the HPD exhaust. The car runs a lot smoother and I can say this combo definitely added horse power. Now I use less throttle to achieve the same speed at the same place before the installation. I don’t know how the fit intake manifold would benefit or shift the power band......


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I found a little more oomph from my car with just the Fit Intake Manifold.
I have this little run I do that goes from where I turn on the road to a sign that is slightly uphill for maybe a quarter mile.
Before intake manifold I got up to 65mph after I got up to 70mph, this is nowhere close to scientific as there are a slew of factors that could affect it but it does seem to have improved something lol.

 

Well I'm thinking something is not right then, as I'm finding I'm needing to use a bit more throttle than I would normally. Like you, I have a hill that I use for grounds for comparison. I'm now thinking it mat be something to do with the vacuum hose and a possible back pressure issue. Would anyone one know if the length of the vacuum hose would have any effect on the acceleration / performance?

 

Reading more through some of the threads related to Takeda/other brands of intake kits it's been noted by SOME members that the torque/power bands shift after install. Giving up a little in one Rev range while gaining it back and then some in others. Might be what you're experiencing though it sounds from what you describe more like your car may not be running quite "right".

 

Yep, I do notice torque takes a dive until pass 3500-4000rpm +. But that’s just the nature of the car. Check out this Takeda dyno graph. There’s a dead zone around for the torque curve.

https://afepower.com/media/pdp-files/TM-1016B-1-dyno.pdf

 

Not verified via actual dyno but I did notice that the power/torque band did shift up thanks to the dual plenum design that the L1A7 upper plenum has. Which to me, is a good change since if I recall correctly the IMA does the bulk of its work 'efficiently' from 1k to 4k RPMs (Don't hold me to it, still learning about the CR-Z while on this forum. ).

One thing I would highly recommend doing AFTER install is to make sure you do the idle relearn procedure. It doesn't matter if stock PCM, Flash Pro, KTuner, etc... Do it, it only takes MAYBE 15 to 20 minutes of your time. It will help ensure that you have a smooth idle as well as helps the PCM when it starts relearning and adjusting its various maps for short & long term fuel trims, ignition trims, 'shift' points, etc.

To do the idle relearn...

Disconnect battery for approximately 20 to 60 seconds (more time doesn't hurt of course) then reconnect. Turn off ALL loads in the vehicle (radio, A/C, lights, etc) then start vehicle and allow vehicle to idle until either A) Engine oil temp reaches 194 degrees F or B) Until the engine cooling fans kick on 2 or 3 times then allow the vehicle to continue idling for another 5 to 10 minutes. Once that time passes, turn off the engine THEN restart and idle for another 3 to 5 minutes. After that is done, you should be set to drive and allow the vehicle to finish doing its relearn process as well as perform most of its emissions monitor tests during that time period.

 

I was going to suggest the same thing @Hootie -- I have the detailed steps of the relearn procedure in a post on my build thread.
─ click here for Idle Control Learn & CKP Pattern learn procedure

 

Thanks Guys, I will certainly give this a go and keep you posted. I Think I will take it all off again and re-do the install at the same time.

 

So, I'm getting ever closer to hitting the buy button on a Manifold and have now been wondering about the throttle body. I can get hold of second hand throttle body and have also found a company local to me who can bore them out. Is this worth doing and would it be advisable to get the manifold inlet section bored out to marry up with new size of the bored out TB.

 

Got the manifold now sorted which has been bought by my other half as an Xmas gift............ Roll on Christmas Day!
Can anyone tell me if I need to think about the throttle body at this stage, or just leave it as a standard bore for the time being?

 

Drive it. If you like the way it feels, then leave it as is. If you still think you need more responsiveness, then you have your answer.