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I am also having A/C problems.
Seems like mine is a little different than most that are experiencing.
I turn the A/C on and the A/C compressor fan is not turning on.
I have already checked fuse 10 and 47, both are good
I also noticed that my radiator fan is not turning on? I could be wrong though, since I know the radiator fan on turns on periodically.
Car has never gave me a temp warning light.
The A/C blows air but not cold at all, the system is charged.
any idea what my next step should be? check and replace the relays?
Currently in the same boat. A/C was super cold but would struggle on really hot days. Then it just stopped blowing cold air at all. First step for me was trying to add Freon but as soon as I connected the gauge it shot to red. Lifted the car and did not see the compressor or any fans turning on. Checked fuses 10 and 47, both were good. Unsure of how to check if relays are good so I just moved some around to see if it made a difference but no change. I removed the cap to try and remove shims but I did not see anything in there? Thinking of buying relays and an a/c clutch kit as I really hate taking the car to a/c shops who will most likely tell me to replace the condenser.

64436
 
It's been awhile since I've been on this forum..but I'm getting ready sell my car after DD'ing for the last 12 years. I noticed the AC issue as described in this thread, so I decided to try the fix described here:

1) Jack up the front of the car, remove the panels as you would if you were doing an oil change. Remove the right side panels (USA, Base) as well for easier access..turn the steering wheel all the way to the right.

2) You want to remove this bolt with an impact wrench, 12mm:

Image


3) Then you get this:

Image



4) That "shim" looks like a very thin washer, remove it and toss it...put it back together..

Image




AC's back to "normal" (I don't think the AC's ever been cool enough for me during the summer months...)

Take care everyone!
 
Hey All.

Had the usual problem with the A/C - disengaging on hot days when engine's hot. Mechanic removed a shim for me (for free as he said it was such a small job), and A/C worked great through last summer. He told me that the shim he removed was the last one.

Not yet warm enough here (in UK!) to know for sure, but it's been a bit intermittent when I've been using A/C to clear the windscreen recently, and was a bit dodgy towards end of last summer. So, my question is, if it does turn out to be the same problem when it gets hot again, is there anywhere to go if all the shims have been removed? Or is it a new compressor? Or is it possible to get the clutch assembly without replacing the rest of it?

Not planning on doing it myself, but have moved so don't have that good mechanic anymore, and would like to go in armed with knowledge of what possible solutions are so that I don't pay ÂŁÂŁÂŁs for something that's not needed. Also, worrying range of expertise on the issue here - mentioned A/C clutch and shims to a mechanic the other day, and he literally had no idea what I was talking about...!

Have read through this thread, and can't see any advice on what to do at this point when all shims removed, though might have missed something.
Many thanks in advance for any help you can give!
 
I seem to remember seeing a few threads that stated the Clutch can be replaced without replacing the whole compressor. I am just not sure what to search for to find them. We really need one thread for all of the AC issues.
 
First thing would be to get a set of gauges on it to check the charge level, it could be low. Other than the shim issue that is particular to the CRZ, the most common AC problem is a loss of charge due to a leak or gradual seepage past the seals over time.
So have a trustworthy shop take a look starting with the standard pressure check and maybe that's all it needs. Although the Z is an unusual car in some ways, the AC system isn't really special or different from any typical automotive AC.
 
First thing would be to get a set of gauges on it to check the charge level, it could be low. Other than the shim issue that is particular to the CRZ, the most common AC problem is a loss of charge due to a leak or gradual seepage past the seals over time.
When it does come on, it's very cold indeed, so I think the charge level should be fine? In any case, could get them to check it anyway - I can't imagine they'll bill me just to check!
Thanks for help!
 
I seem to remember seeing a few threads that stated the Clutch can be replaced without replacing the whole compressor. I am just not sure what to search for to find them. We really need one thread for all of the AC issues.
That's good to know - I'll have a look around in the threads and see what I can find on it. Thanks!
 
When it does come on, it's very cold indeed, so I think the charge level should be fine? In any case, could get them to check it anyway - I can't imagine they'll bill me just to check!
Thanks for help!
You may be right, but the only way to know for sure is with a proper set of manifold gauges. Even with a full charge there are other things that can happen in the system that affect the pressures and cooling performance, correct diagnosis requires a trained tech with the right equipment. And yes I'm repeating myself from my earlier post in this thread.
 
Its all good!! :)

I wonder if anyone on this forum has even run into this problem before? Does anyone even have nearly as many miles as me?? (150k?)

So, i found out that the clutch plate itself is the part that wears? I need to take a better look at mine and figure out if I need the entire clutch kit, or if its possible to just shim the thing and be done with it. I'm pretty sure you CAN just shim, but I need to test my coil and such and make sure everything else is working proper.
I’m currently (literally holding the clutch plate in my other hand while typing..) taking the sh out to see if it helps… I have a 2011 @154k miles.
I’m getting 12v readings on all my relays, but only 10v at the compressor, is this normal??
 
From other similar threads, the First thing most people do is remove the shims. If that was done, then make sure the Freon is the correct amount, not under full or over full. Then go looking at the other components. Some have had to replace a pressure switch, some the clutch others the relay etc. but Most dealers go straight to compressor replacement.

I will tell the AC in my example has never really been stunning and if air temp is over 80 (I lived in Texas at the time) it does not work to provide cooling. Even with the AC set to low to lessen the Auto stop.
 
I will tell the AC in my example has never really been stunning and if air temp is over 80 (I lived in Texas at the time) it does not work to provide cooling.
Is it normal for CR-Z if the AC blow 7°C/45°F from the vents? The ambient temperature during test was 32°C/90°F, normal mode, temperature set to LO, blower at full speed, shim removed and pressure sensor replaced.
then make sure the Freon is the correct amount, not under full or over full.
The aircon guy said it could be too much gas in the system and this may prevent the AC from blowing colder air...
 
Had the intermittent blowing hot issue for at least the last year, 130k mi on vehicle now I think.

Pulled clutch plate, found .020" (0.5mm aka the thickest shim) but the clutch plate was pretty warped (wear/scoring isn't even around circumference) and a .025" feeler would pass in most locations. didn't have any shims but did have a hollow punch set and some cut up soda can shims. Cut three .0045 shims for 0.0135" or 0.34mm and it runs like a champ again. TC in the vent shows 40-41°F temps with exterior temps at 82-83 in the hot sun.

A+ thanks for the guidance, yall.
 
Had the intermittent blowing hot issue for at least the last year, 130k mi on vehicle now I think.

Pulled clutch plate, found .020" (0.5mm aka the thickest shim) but the clutch plate was pretty warped (wear/scoring isn't even around circumference) and a .025" feeler would pass in most locations. didn't have any shims but did have a hollow punch set and some cut up soda can shims. Cut three .0045 shims for 0.0135" or 0.34mm and it runs like a champ again. TC in the vent shows 40-41°F temps with exterior temps at 82-83 in the hot sun.

A+ thanks for the guidance, yall.
Very innovative, i like it. Great job getting it working again!
 
Hi everyone.
Long time owner of a 188k miles CR-Z here in the UK that has been rock solid.
Unfortunate, Like most others my AC has failed.

When I press the AC on button, I hear the engine change revs like its trying to do something, but no 'click' that I used to hear.
Will be looking to see if I can get some help in removing a shim to see if that fixes the issue.
Also the radiator fans do not come on, and I can't tell if that part of the same issue of the shims?

The gas has been recharged, as I thought that was the issue at First, but didn't resolve it.

I have tried looking at the relays, but in the UK the 2 relays boxes are in a different place than most of the pictures online, and the amount of relays in the boxes are different?.

Any advice you guys and girls can give will be a massive help and relief...
 
I am also having A/C problems. Seems like mine is a little different than most that are experiencing. I turn the A/C on and the A/C compressor fan is not turning on. I have already checked fuse 10 and 47, both are good I also noticed that my radiator fan is not turning on? I could be wrong though, since I know the radiator fan on turns on periodically. Car has never gave me a temp warning light. The A/C blows air but not cold at all, the system is charged. any idea what my next step should be? check and replace the relays?
Hi there, I have had the same issue for the longest time. Took it to a reputable AC mechanic. All checked out fine. Took it to an auto electrician and they didn't give a clear diagnosis. Just that the AC only comes on with the radiator fan. Radiator fan comes on periodically and then the AC blows cold. Please help! Thank you!
 
Just 2 days ago the compressor stopped working on my 2013, it was fine before and then suddenly I start the car and turn the aircon ON and nothing, compressor simply doesn't start. How do I check the fuses in the engine?
It's been pretty good so far, even with one of the fan being weak, it's 90% of the time cold and it's always on the Low temp', where I live it's like 89 to 94f all year long with 80% humidity, pretty heavy weather. But when you actually sit still in traffic with no movement at 94f then yep, the aircon start to be a little less cold.
 
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