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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Apparently the only company that made an OE style replacement steering wheel was Lecce. They made all sorts of colors and finishes. But I checked their website and it looks like it’s completely wiped from the internet. That really sucks! But it is a reminder that the CR-Z’s days of parts availability are numbered.

I checked Buyee, and I kid you not, one of the first listings for steering wheels had a used D-shaped carbon Lecce wheel! It was just under $200 too, way cheaper than it was new! I snagged that thing immediately. It seems that the guys who listed it didn’t know it was a Lecce wheel and listed it as an OE wheel. Anyhow, I was super lucky!

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
The Mugen rear wing is now installed! Everyone really likes it. Even the bodyshop that installed it said it was impressive. They were especially blown away by the jigs it came with. Normally cheap kits come with paper jigs that they just have to sorta guess with. But this one included plastic jigs that are perfectly formed to the tailgate. They said they’re the best jigs they’ve ever seen.

Unfortunately they lost the caution label in the process. But I’m contacting some sticker companies to have them replicate one and send me some extras.

Lighting wasn’t super great yesterday but here’s what it looks like now:

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Here are the jigs mentioned earlier:

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That’d be a miracle. Basically all we know is that the speed ring is what tells the car how fast those wheels are spinning. That’s where the measurement is taken. When that value is messed with (new final drive ratio) it doesn’t think it’s in gear and cuts regen. Someone in a thread like 4 years ago said they modified a speed ring and got it to work but never provided any specifics and hasn’t been seen since.
Pretty sure this is the final answer.

I'm looking at putting a mechanical LSD, closer ratio gears, and a better clutch into '16 CR-Z that will be kept otherwise bone stock. I'm guessing the IMA won't bother if the FD drive doesn't change. I really don't see how a mechanical LSD would change a damn thing to the computer, but I'm a bit nervous anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Pretty sure this is the final answer.

I'm looking at putting a mechanical LSD, closer ratio gears, and a better clutch into '16 CR-Z that will be kept otherwise bone stock. I'm guessing the IMA won't bother if the FD drive doesn't change. I really don't see how a mechanical LSD would change a damn thing to the computer, but I'm a bit nervous anyway.
An LSD will leave the IMA system intact. HPD offered a diff which would carry over with the warranty so if they can get away with it then you can too. :)
 

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That’s news to me. Got a link to their website?
looks like they are in Poland, not the UK... faulty memory.

 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
looks like they are in Poland, not the UK... faulty memory.

That actually looks very nice. I'd have considered them if I couldn't get my hands on this carbon wheel.

Anywho, the car's gonna get a custom alignment once I can budget for it. I found a local performance shop within walking distance, under three miles away. I stopped by to ask about custom alignments and they said they could do it. Gonna camber the front in with the Largus camber bolts from Japan and toe the rear out with shims. It should be very helpful to counter the understeer on the autocross course and stop the car from rolling over on the tire.
 

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toe the rear out with shims.
no you're not. if you found a place that says they can, they are wrong.

If you want to firm up the suspension, get some urethane bushings, and the Spoon front sway bar


(shipping is a niiiiiiightmare on this)

Ordered some extra parts for other systems from Japan too. Will post when they arrive. It has to do with exterior lighting.
.... well? we're waiting. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
no you're not. if you found a place that says they can, they are wrong.
The shimming process is really straight forward. On the alignment rack the clearances are very easy to see when comes to toe and camber. If the rear axle needs to be adjusted, the machine prints out the specs requires and a template on where to cut the shim to get the desired alignment spec. Pop the hub off the axle, mount shim, remount hub. Not sure where you got the idea that it’s not possible because it is.

Pic relates is what a shim looks like:
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According to previous postings on this forum the rear is not adjustable at all without replacing the rear beam. There are no adjustments and a few members to resolve an issue with the rear ended up replacing the rear beam. Good luck getting what you want but 4 wheel alignment on this car is not possible.

Since you rally maybe what you are attempting makes sense but for normal drivers all that will do (if you can) is wear tires.

Do some reading on Toe and all the other alignment settings and what they do and why.
 

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The shimming process is really straight forward. On the alignment rack the clearances are very easy to see when comes to toe and camber. If the rear axle needs to be adjusted, the machine prints out the specs requires and a template on where to cut the shim to get the desired alignment spec. Pop the hub off the axle, mount shim, remount hub. Not sure where you got the idea that it’s not possible because it is.
I'm well aware of how hub shimming works on cars. (for those unaware, see this video)

I got the idea that the CRZ rear is not shimmable by replacing my rear hubs, and having my rear axle torn apart and out of the car a couple times.

There simply is no place to install a shim on the CRZ's rear axle.

The rear hub is installed on a tapered "axle" stub and held on by the axle nut and tapered bearings. To adjust rear toe independently, you need to bend the axle. You can alter the toe relative to the opposite wheel by loosening the mounting bolts and shimmying it back and forth a little then tightening the bolts again.
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
According to previous postings on this forum the rear is not adjustable at all without replacing the rear beam. There are no adjustments and a few members to resolve an issue with the rear ended up replacing the rear beam. Good luck getting what you want but 4 wheel alignment on this car is not possible.

Since you rally maybe what you are attempting makes sense but for normal drivers all that will do (if you can) is wear tires.

Do some reading on Toe and all the other alignment settings and what they do and why.
I'm well aware of how hub shimming works on cars. (for those unaware, see this video)

I got the idea that the CRZ rear is not shimmable by replacing my rear hubs, and having my rear axle torn apart and out of the car a couple times.

There simply is no place to install a shim on the CRZ's rear axle.

The rear hub is installed on a tapered "axle" stub and held on by the axle nut and tapered bearings. To adjust rear toe independently, you need to bend the axle. You can alter the toe relative to the opposite wheel by loosening the mounting bolts and shimmying it back and forth a little then tightening the bolts again.
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Well… shoot.

However, I’m not giving up yet. I also wanted to add much more negative camber in the front beyond what just Camber bolts do. I found a possible solution from a company in Japan that made a top strut mount for the GE8, which our cars are heavily based on. It has an interesting way of mounting through a “service hole” under the fender or something.


Based on this installation PDF, and the similarities of the ZF1/2 and GE8’s, do you think it’s possible to mount this to a CR-Z?
 

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Simple question why? Hate the look of the heavily cambered /toed ( angled out or in ) wheels and the extra wear that puts on tires but if you have a special reason I would like to know, just to learn more.

Well… shoot.

However, I’m not giving up yet. I also wanted to add much more negative camber in the front beyond what just Camber bolts do. I found a possible solution from a company in Japan that made a top strut mount for the GE8, which our cars are heavily based on. It has an interesting way of mounting through a “service hole” under the fender or something.


Based on this installation PDF, and the similarities of the ZF1/2 and GE8’s, do you think it’s possible to mount this to a CR-Z?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Simple question why? Hate the look of the heavily cambered /toed ( angled out or in ) wheels and the extra wear that puts on tires but if you have a special reason I would like to know, just to learn more.
Because I autocross it, and I’m currently rolling over on the tire so hard I’m understeering off the track. Accelerating out of corners just spins the wheels, despite the 40 treadwear rating. I need more camber than what is available.
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
One of the best things happened to the car today. My dad backed is motorcycle into the fender! It happened to smack right into the crease, and it scratched to the bare metal. Normally I’d be really pissed, but this gives me an excuse to order the FEEL’S fenders. He’s willing to compensate the amount an insurance company would pay to repair just the one side. So if it costs more then I’ll pay the difference. And if all goes well, I could save up for some Yokohama A008P tires and mount the Mugen M7V2 wheels I’ve been keeping in the basement for almost two years. All in all, really convenient progress!

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Well… shoot.

However, I’m not giving up yet. I also wanted to add much more negative camber in the front beyond what just Camber bolts do. I found a possible solution from a company in Japan that made a top strut mount for the GE8, which our cars are heavily based on. It has an interesting way of mounting through a “service hole” under the fender or something.


Based on this installation PDF, and the similarities of the ZF1/2 and GE8’s, do you think it’s possible to mount this to a CR-Z?
I don't see any immediate reasons why it wouldn't fit. best case it works, worst case you've wasted some money and time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
no you're not. if you found a place that says they can, they are wrong.

If you want to firm up the suspension, get some urethane bushings, and the Spoon front sway bar


(shipping is a niiiiiiightmare on this)


.... well? we're waiting. :D
Aaand they’re here! Plus another important piece.

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My lucky score was a pair of RAYBRIG fog lamps from Japan. My importer snagged them from Croooober for me. Listed as a used part but the condition screams new. Even the heat shrink isn’t shrunk down yet! No scuffs, scratches or nicks anywhere on either unit. Only $80! Would’ve loved the Mugen units but they’re $800 for the fog lamps alone, plus $220 for the mounts that are now discontinued.

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Hit up a small business that makes parts for the Honda Fit. They made a rear fog lamp kit meant for the GE8 fit but also said it works for the CR-Z. While I love Mugen I’m also a big supporter of small businesses. Gave them a sale because they could probably use it. I opted for the wiring harness as well. The instructions are hand written in some places. I hope they can keep it up!

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Last but not least, the Laile Beatrush aluminum under panel! I took the car rallycrossing once just for a hoot. Ended up scraping the plastic panel loose enough to droop down, scoop up like 20 pounds of dirt, and stretched out where it likely wouldn’t fit right again. Had one made to order and plan on slapping it on soon.

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Got together with a friend to install the Laile Beatrush panel. It took us a while to figure out how the rear bracket mounted. We found a forum post from like nine years ago of another user who installed it. Turns out the hooks they give you go through the subframe! After we cleared that up we got it on. Ripped out the lower fender liners because they were stretched out, although the instructions tell you to leave them in. In the near future I’m going to pay a local dealer to equip the front fog lights with the OEM fog light parts kit and put new lower fender liners in.

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Got the fog light kit from the dealer along with some new inner fenders and some push pins. Comparing the two is a night and day difference! Both are height adjustable with a screw on the bottom. The only difference here is that the harness clips right into the OEM unit rather than another short harness off the back side of the Raybrig unit. In another two weeks or so I’ll have them put in while I order the next set of fenders. :D

For those interested, the part for the LED lights is the Raybrig LF07. They’re about $240 from Japan and come with the plastic brackets for the CR-Z that match up perfectly with the OEM fog lights.

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