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Discussion Starter #21
Finally, before installing the manifold, I smoothed the inside of the runners with the same flap wheel - Dremel setup:

IMG_1041.JPG IMG_1043.JPG

I washed the inside of the manifold thoroughly and let it dry before installing it on the car.

Now for some of the finer points of the install:

The brake booster barb is 14mm minor, 15mm major diameter, rather than the 10mm minor on the OEM/GE8 manifolds, thus a 14-10mm adapter is needed along with the corresponding hose. Assembled, it looks like this:

IMG_1099.JPG

You will also need an M6, 1.0 pitch bolt 15-20mm long for the MAP sensor instead of OEM M5 Phillips head. No modification to the sensor hole is necessary.

The plugs and ports in the back Of the manifold are NOT NPT and tread straight through into the manifold without a taper. This is not an issue for the four smaller plugs because they have a flanged head, but the center one is larger (M14 I believe) and only comes with a set screw to plug it. This means you’ll need a flange bolt cut short (to about 14mm threaded length) in order to plug it properly. I am still in the process of doing this part, the set screw works okay, but the idea of it falling into or out of the manifold is not pleasant.

Pictures of the install:

IMG_1101.JPG IMG_1109.JPG IMG_1113.JPG

The brake booster barb is uncomfortably close to the wiper cowl and can cause the 14mm section of the hose to kink. I experimented with various lengths of 14mm hose and found the shortest possible one to work best. That being said I will look for another way to keep such a strong break angle from occurring on the hose.

The throttle body moves up a couple centimeters and gets rotated forward slightly. This doesn’t seem to put tension on anything, but it could be an issue depending on the intake you are running. For the Mugen intake, it means that only the engine side mounting bolt can be used as the transmission side one is displaced too far to get a bolt to line up.

Also, there is some interference with the rocker cover on the PCV port during install. Once it is in position, it largely goes away.

And one last note, the captive nut carrier on the intake runners does NOT fit between the runners on the VRI manifold. This means that individual nuts are required to fix it to the OEM runners. It is very tricky to get the bottom two nuts in place without dropping them into the engine bay.

Overall, not a very pleasant process to install, but I have about 150mi on it now without issue.

I will not be able to afford dyno testing for some time, and I have yet to drive the car hard, but no real difference can be told yet.
 
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