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Discussion Starter #1
Being on lockdown now in the UK, I have loads of time to faff about with my Z so I was wondering where to start with an underside refurbishment, de-rusting, cleaning, protecting for the future.
I do not see any particular areas of concern apart from the tiny gaps between the wheel arch liners and the outer skin of the wings. I do not want to take the liners off unless it is recommended? and then clean and protect the whole underside.
I recently had to drive over a sand/sea water covered causeway to my holiday island and subsequently gave her a good fresh water spray underneath but worry there may be gaps where salt and sand got in.
Any knowledgeable advise gratefully received
Thanks from North East England.
Hope you all survive the virus :)
 

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Rear fender well lip. Someone I know has rust developing about 6-8 inches above the seam of the side sill/rear fender area. Good luck! I would always check that rear fender well lip for packed-up dirt, and flush it out.
 

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Thanks Litz.
Your the man.
Only 2 days in and I'm seriously frustrated! 12 week lockdown possible. Damn those chunks
 

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She'll be cleaned and shined and protected in every nook and cranny. I'd invite you over to do mine too, but not allowed out. :)

I'm working in an "essential business," so I still have work to do, but have to do it from home four days of the week, and go into the plant only on ONE designated day, but...

I got some groceries, some peanut butter
To last a couple of days
But I ain't got no speakers, ain't got no headphones
Ain't got no records to play....
 

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The one place i noticed my cr-z getting rust when parting out was behind the side skirts area, near the rear.. may wanna check that too. Just be careful pulling the skirts out. The clips come out and they slide forward towards the front of the car (i think).
 

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Thanks. I'll have a good look around there. Pleased it is dry over here just now and temperature nearly 60F. Great weather for working on the cars.!!!
 

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Rear fender well lip. Someone I know has rust developing about 6-8 inches above the seam of the side sill/rear fender area. Good luck! I would always check that rear fender well lip for packed-up dirt, and flush it out.
The proverbial Achilles heel of just about any Honda Coupe
 

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I'm going to get the whole underside undercoated with sound deadener undercoating for protection and quieter ride. When I first got the car I had to listen to radio at 15 at 70mph changed the tires and you can listen at 8 now. Tires make a difference.
 

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Another place to watch for rust is the base of the hatch/boot hinges. I cleaned off the surface rust before Winter, and once during, but I just noticed it's back again. This time I sprayed it with IronX and let it soak for five minutes, then scrubbed the seam with a toothbrush. Wiped and rinsed it off, and looks like it removed it all rust and kept the paint. :) I got the IronX last year, and used it on the paint, and it got all of the iron/metal/rusty specs off of my Premium White Pearl too.

60902


60903


60904
 

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Prior to using iron x try just toothbrush with soapy water then take pic that way I know iron x actually does something. I had a body shop manager spit on a rag and wipe the rust stain under my licences plate nuts on my 97 civic and it just wiped away. I was grossed out but it wiped away. I dont suggest finding that specific shop and that specific guy for his spit... I'm just saying, it did wipe away. LoL.
 

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Prior to using iron x try just toothbrush with soapy water then take pic that way I know iron x actually does something. I had a body shop manager spit on a rag and wipe the rust stain under my licences plate nuts on my 97 civic and it just wiped away. I was grossed out but it wiped away. I dont suggest finding that specific shop and that specific guy for his spit... I'm just saying, it did wipe away. LoL.
Haha! I actually got it because of the iron specs on my paint (mostly rear bumper,) that wouldn't come off with soap and water or any other cleaner, for that matter. Didn't think of spitting on it though, however, I did find a new product that I'm sure will tackle the job, according to the promotional video.

 

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I think arm & hammer white toothpaste is what I used along with a toothbrush, on my wife's accord. It just has to be a very low grit polishing agent to remove the iron stains. I never heard of the product you used. There is no arguement it worked for you. Looks good.
 

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Being on lockdown now in the UK, I have loads of time to faff about with my Z so I was wondering where to start with an underside refurbishment, de-rusting, cleaning, protecting for the future.
I do not see any particular areas of concern apart from the tiny gaps between the wheel arch liners and the outer skin of the wings. I do not want to take the liners off unless it is recommended? and then clean and protect the whole underside.
I recently had to drive over a sand/sea water covered causeway to my holiday island and subsequently gave her a good fresh water spray underneath but worry there may be gaps where salt and sand got in.
Any knowledgeable advise gratefully received
Thanks from North East England.
Hope you all survive the virus :)
I looked around my car. Generally there are several areas where it tends to rust. Wheel arches around the edges, area behind the front shock absorbers, rear of the chassis underneath the bumper behind the number plate, also below the latch where the sheet metal is pressed together, you will see it when you take the rubber seal off, probably around the bumper mounts also, rear boot hinges.
Under the car on the chassis behind and above the torsion beam, the beam itself tends to rust along the edges and welds. The exhaust protection plate near the front. I have seen some of them rusted and fall off.
Area around the jacking points under the rocker panels.
On the roof I had some spider web rust spots.
Mines not too bad considering the age of the car. Have used the clear waxoyl on some areas. Looking to put some rust converter on underneath the chassis and coat it with some protection.
 

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Another place to watch for rust is the base of the hatch/boot hinges. I cleaned off the surface rust before Winter, and once during, but I just noticed it's back again. This time I sprayed it with IronX and let it soak for five minutes, then scrubbed the seam with a toothbrush. Wiped and rinsed it off, and looks like it removed it all rust and kept the paint. :) I got the IronX last year, and used it on the paint, and it got all of the iron/metal/rusty specs off of my Premium White Pearl too.

Thanks for your idea. I'm considering the IronX and want to make sure it's good.
 

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One more place I found it in clearly hefty amounts is the bonnet catch loop (open the bonnet and loop up for the painted loop that hooks onto the latch).

I take it these rust converters can't have any side effects, generally speaking. Like the process of treating the rust doesn't in some way weaken the steel etc? Kurust says not to use on painted surfaces but I'm assuming that's just because it dries black/blue - under the bonnet I don't really care, rather this than rust.
 

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One more place I found it in clearly hefty amounts is the bonnet catch loop (open the bonnet and loop up for the painted loop that hooks onto the latch).

I take it these rust converters can't have any side effects, generally speaking. Like the process of treating the rust doesn't in some way weaken the steel etc? Kurust says not to use on painted surfaces but I'm assuming that's just because it dries black/blue - under the bonnet I don't really care, rather this than rust.
Not really noticed the the latch hoop. Last time checked the underside of my bonnet it was relatively clean.
I have used the kurust rust converter for stone chips. Didn't affect the paint. When it drys it leaves like a clear film over the surface that you can pick off. If you leave it longer it dries black/blue.
You can rub it off. It only reacts with the rust and not the metal. You can paint over it when dried.
If it's unpainted metal that has slight rust, I just use the rust remover to clean it up then spray on the clear waxoyl, which will prevent it rusting further.
 

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I'm going to get the whole underside undercoated with sound deadener undercoating for protection and quieter ride. When I first got the car I had to listen to radio at 15 at 70mph changed the tires and you can listen at 8 now. Tires make a difference.

I'd like to know how this works out for you. I'd like for mine to be a bit quieter also. I have to turn the radio pretty loud to listen to it also and I know it is mostly road noise.
 
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