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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We get this question a lot and it gets annoying especially when things can be searched in this forum. It's one thing to ask specific question, but just a blanket statement can be annoying.

Anyway, I'm hoping to start directing people to this link/thread when this question pops in.

Here are the things that went wrong with my first CRZ (2011 EX - CBP - 6MT - owned from 2012-2019 (crashed)) and my second CRX (2012 EX Nav - CBP - 6MT - purchased 2020 and still have it).

2011 CRZ - bought at 22k miles in 2012 and had 106k miles at time of crash 2018
Replaced broken fog lights with 2011 Honda Civic fog lights from eBay - cost about $50
Replaced both door actuators - extended warranty replaced for free
Replaced all 4 TPMS sensors - extended warranty replaced for free
Glove box stopped opening - did not fix or replace
Had replace the under hood battery in 2018

2012 CRZ - bought with 54k miles in 2020 and now has 64k miles
Driver's side door actuator working intermittently - will replace soon

No issues with the IMA battery on both CRZ's.

For CRZ owners, former and current, please add to the list by commenting below.

Thanks!
 

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2012 EX
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Service records other than Oil and filter changes.
Bought my 2012 from orginal owner and is spotless inside and out.
But she only had "easy" things serviced in the 110k she had it.. oil, filter, tires and CVT fluid only once.
I know was the problem with all my brake pistons sticking / siezing.
So suggest looking for or asking the seller about complete maintenance history.
 

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I bought a 2012 Honda CR-Z north shore blue @54,000 miles.
Problems:
1. Driver door handle snapped on a hot day. I bought a handle assembly and replaced myself after searching some YouTube videos.
2. Passenger door handle broke shortly after same process.
3. Got a code for faulty vtec actuator stuck on one mode. Replaced it.
4. Hit a deer. Fixed minor damages through insurance.
Regular maintenance:
1. Oil changes at 25% maintenance status.
2. Transmission flush using Honda oem fluid for manual transmission at 60,000 and again at 75,000 miles.
3. Break pads and disc replacement at 90k (still had life since I downshift to do most of my slowing down)
4. Air filter is k&n drop in filter which I clean each oil change.
 

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Like any used car don't believe anything the seller is telling you. Don't get emotional. All used cars are one of one so analyze it very thoroughly. On the test drive, test everything you possibly can on the car. Take it to a shop that is not associated with the seller and have it looked over for anything odd. Any warning lights at all walk away. Salvage title unless it is very very cheap walk away. Any signs of water damage walk away. Look at what it is not what you think it is. Anything you find, if you still want it is a negotiating point. Remember these cars are all at least 5 years old and can be more than 10. Compare with other cars you can buy that are newer or brand new and think about how long you are planning to keep it. Again be practical not emotional.

The Good news is only two members have had to replace the IMA battery so far but those numbers will get higher as the average age of these cars increases. Many more have had to replace the IMA fan or the DC to DC converter. Even more have had to replace the under hood battery. A known issue is the exterior door handles fail. Budget for this. Anything odd happens like the IMA light, Hill assist, ABS, ETC together or separately just replace the under hood battery first. A less frequent failure is the ABS module. and the Alarm hood switch.

See @PeterPerkins postings for ideas to get more life out of the IMA.

1) Never ever talk monthly payments, if financing it. You want to know total out the door price. Irrelevant if paying cash. Make sure price of vehicle is reasonable based on actual condition compared to KBB and other sources. No used car is perfect look at trade in value (Good, fair or poor and be realistic as to condition) not full retail and add a small profit on top of that. Negotiate the total cost of the vehicle first.
2) Never ever discuss your trade in that is a separate transaction.
3) Never buy a third party warranty, you want a Honda warranty if you even want one and can get one on a used car of this age.

Always be prepared to walk away at any time.

Once you buy it change every fluid and filter on the car, Load test the under hood battery or just replace it, replace wiper blades and if tires are more than 5 years old replace them too. If service History book is not in the car also replace spark plugs, belt and have valves adjusted. Do all maintenance first before thinking of changes you want to make.

All of the above I have repeated every time buying a car comes up
 

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Definitely check the door handles as they stop working after a while due to some faulty design and they are a pain to replace. Paying someone to do it is expensive as well
Summer months a door may be harder to open. I would suggest opening the door from the inside if possible rather than forcing it.
 

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Summer months a door may be harder to open. I would suggest opening the door from the inside if possible rather than forcing it.
Yeah, the heat does seem to affect it as the doors were harder to open if I left it out in the heat versus my air conditioned garage but eventually the doors won't open at all and you have to replace the handle. The poster named speed bump was saying that the newer replacement handles they sell don't have that defect. I just know I replaced mine and I have an extra one just in case this new replacement doesn't work either. Anyways, it was a real pain in the ass to take apart and dealers and other places charge a lot of money so if I was to get another CRZ I would make sure the door handles don't stick at all or have problems the minute I get them because its annoying especially since there's no key on the passenger side. So if your driver side door handle is broken and your battery goes dead that's it you got to get a locksmith, dismantle the door or break the window to get in.
 

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One correction much less of the newer cars have the issue. The later years have reported less of this issue. I have to presume some have failed. It is still an all therm-plastic part and will be affected eventually by the high heat,wear and breakage. The material for the newer cars and for the replacement parts may have changed but I have no confirmation and my 2013 has not had the issue yet but I fully plan to buy the parts and have in stock once I can afford to. It is a known issue but many vehicles have known issues.

I still think with creative use of parts from other domestic markets we should be able to add a key to the other side but no one has confirmed if it is possible.

See Door Handle Parts Thread for all part numbers.


Yeah, the heat does seem to affect it as the doors were harder to open if I left it out in the heat versus my air conditioned garage but eventually the doors won't open at all and you have to replace the handle. The poster named speed bump was saying that the newer replacement handles they sell don't have that defect. I just know I replaced mine and I have an extra one just in case this new replacement doesn't work either. Anyways, it was a real pain in the ass to take apart and dealers and other places charge a lot of money so if I was to get another CRZ I would make sure the door handles don't stick at all or have problems the minute I get them because its annoying especially since there's no key on the passenger side. So if your driver side door handle is broken and your battery goes dead that's it you got to get a locksmith, dismantle the door or break the window to get in.
 

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2011 CR-Z GT-Navi Milano Red
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It is still an all therm-plastic part and will be affected eventually by the high heat,wear and breakage.
Is there any sign that could indicate that the handle is about to break, or will it just happen without warning?
 

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Is there any sign that could indicate that the handle is about to break, or will it just happen without warning?
When I bought mine I looked at it a couple of times and the door opened fine at first time the second time I came back and saw it the door wasn't opening right the guy said "oh I figured it out. you have to push it on the door a little bit and pull" (I think it might have been hot that day is why). So I thought it was just quirky but apparently it was having the problem where it was starting to fail so a month after I got it it failed and no amount of pushing and pulling would open it. the part was like $160 but taking the door apart with the real pain in the ass and if you were to have a shop do it the labor will probably be a lot. Basically if I was to get another one I would make sure the door handle opens opens really fine and there's no problems with it since if its starting to catch it's probably close to failure. Or maybe point out to the guy that the door handle is probably going to have to be replaced and maybe he can take some money off the price
 

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We should probably get back on the general topic of what to look for when buying a CR-Z. There is a whole bunch of separate specific threads on the door handles.
 

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I do not have the time or desire to do so. Maybe one of the other Moderators has the time or desire? Let's just keep this one on topic.

Maybe This Thread should be merged with the many other threads that asked what to look for when buying a CR-Z
 

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When I bought mine I looked at it a couple of times and the door opened fine at first time the second time I came back and saw it the door wasn't opening right the guy said "oh I figured it out. you have to push it on the door a little bit and pull" (I think it might have been hot that day is why). So I thought it was just quirky but apparently it was having the problem where it was starting to fail so a month after I got it it failed and no amount of pushing and pulling would open it. the part was like $160 but taking the door apart with the real pain in the ass and if you were to have a shop do it the labor will probably be a lot. Basically if I was to get another one I would make sure the door handle opens opens really fine and there's no problems with it since if its starting to catch it's probably close to failure. Or maybe point out to the guy that the door handle is probably going to have to be replaced and maybe he can take some money off the price. I got my beauty through this firm as didn't have enough money for the purchase.
Such great threads and such useful posts are one of the reasons of my registering here! Thanks a lot :)
UPD: read dozens of threads about CRZ and found out so much new information... Thanks a lot!
 

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2011 CR-Z GT-Navi Milano Red
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I was texting my colleague who will look at 2010 GT in white on Saturday what to check before purchase so will copy-paste this because somebody may find it useful...

There are a few things to check:

- are chassis legs in engine bay straight

- when spark plugs were replaced (expensive and access is difficult)

- can you hear loud tapping noise from the engine (valve clearance adjusting may be needed)

- ask when 12v battery was replaced (usually don’t last long)

- check rust under car (check from the rear)

- is there exhaust badly corroded?

- condition of drive shafts (you know why 😁)

- check door handles are there opening smoothly (especially when hot outside) - they like to break (expensive fix)

- condition of tyres (good 17” may be expensive)

- condition of brake pads and discs

- are xenon lights and headlight washers working fine

- are fog lights working and are there cracked (it happen very often and it’s difficult to replace)

- are there any faults on the dash

- are all driving modes engaging

- is air con working

- how clutch engaging

- does the clutch make noise when moving from standstill

- is there a load cover in the boot (used may cost up to £120)
 

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Hi all. I'm considering buying a CR-Z and have several basic questions...

What are the pros/cons of owning one? Should I stay away or dive in?

Any common issues or faults that I should look out for when checking out a used CR-Z?

Main differences between the various trim options/packages?

Differences/improvements between model years?

How long do those old hybrid batteries last for?

I heard, the 2012? 2013? CR-Z's introduced an improved battery pack? Is this true? I'll be looking at JDM models, so I guess a USDM 2013 would be a JDM 2012??

Anything else you wish you knew before buying one?

Thanks!
 
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