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2012 Sport / manual / NSBP
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250 Posts
Let's agree to disagree. You were talking about a capacitor jump starter. I, too, have never heard my back-up starter or had a dead battery (except for the one replacement on this car), but I am prepared for it with a known working solution for the back-up starter (all I have to do is turn the key and the car decides it needs it) and If my battery discharges, I have the jump starter to self rescue and the charger maintainer will probably keep my under hood battery working for longer than the 5 years you were having with your batteries. My current under hood battery is 10 years old.

You really do not know how long this new battery will last. It is a new technology, and what the specifications say and the reality maybe very different. Especially with how the battery is used in this application, I hope it does what you want it to do. There are members here who have had the under hood battery last a very long time, but the average is 5 years and an expected expense.

A charger maintainer may allow the standard battery to last more cycles.

Your new battery will probably outlast the CR-Z.
Yes, I've been talking about supercap jump starter. It's more or less the same thing as your li-ion jump starter, the difference is that with supercap jump starter, you don't have to charge it, ever. It can just lay in your trunk for 50 years and if you need it, you just connect it to 12v battery (even if it's discharged and outputs for example 6V), then it charges from the remainingg few electrons in your 12v battery and outputs high current so you can jump start the car. It is slightly more expensive than li-ion jump starter and works slightly different but ultimately it does the same thing.

For now I do not have this king of jump starter (or any other jump starter, like li-ion). All I said is that I might buy one at some point, but for now I did not and I don't know if I will. Once my 12V battery died and I needed the car this exact day, I started my lawn mower, parked it next to the car and jump started the car with cables out of my lawn mower's battery.

Right now, I only have 12v LiFePo4 battery that can output 30 amp continous (probably slightly more peak). If for example, the car decided at this moment, that it wants to use the backup starter that is built in into the car, it would either crank very slowly or the BMS that is built into the LiFePo4 battery would kill the power momentarily and it would not start at all. At this point, I could connect (if I had one) either li-ion jump starter or supercap jump starter and the car would start normally using the built-in starter motor. I could also connect my lawn mower with cables and it would start normally too.

So, having any backup power source (like your li-ion jump starter, supercap jump starter that I've mentioned, other car / device with 12 battery) would cover 100% of the possible cases.

One last thing - Yes, I don't know how long it will last, but it's not like this kind of battery is something new and untested. It's used in variety of applications for many years. It is more stable and last much longer than standard li-ion battery. Wikipedia for example says that time durability is above 10 years, so basically it should last lifetime of the car.

It is also much safer chemistry than li-ion, it doesn't experience thermal runaway. It can still explode or catch fire, but only in extreme cases, like short circuit, but this is why it has a built in BMS, but in this case a led acid battery can be dangerous too.

One last thing - the cheapest supercap jump starter is not that much more expensive than your 60$ li-ion jump starter. I've seen few for less than 100$. Both types have some advantages and disadvantages. The advantage of supercap is that you don't need to charge it from external source, but it doesn't store that much energy either.

Example: https://allegro.pl/oferta/ideal-ult...26c989b66bdbe96499e13bc806f55bd0c404f69ac7020
 

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91 Posts
Inspired by Rustbucket I've resolved my problem with rubbing in front while turning the wheel
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle


Did a simillar thing in my car on both sides, not perfect but it'll do. I had to cut out a protruding piece of plastic in the inner fenders, then bend a small part of pinch weld, at the end I've rivitted in a plastic piece and sealed it all with silicon.
Tire Wheel Car Motor vehicle Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread


We'll see how long it'll last until it falls of lol
 

· Modified 2016
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1,487 Posts
Replaced my throttle body coolant hoses last night finally. Next up is my upper radiator support as soon as I get it back from painting at the body shop. Also... @96firephoenix has a spare set of shift cables he's got waiting for me. I can cancel my order for the new cables since they are on backorder. Beats paying $400 shipped for a new set of shift cables. Hopefully no more coolant leaks on my car.
 

· Modified 2016
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1,487 Posts
Took some work but I got my radiator support replaced. The old one had tons of rust spots on it and the other captive nut that the intake secured to was about to be on strike.
 
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2,515 Posts
cleaned up a coffee spill, and while I was waiting for things to dry, I cleaned up the center console, including pulling apart the CVT shift knob to clean the insides and lubricate the button.

I also installed the accord hybrid badges on the white car, same as on the red one... looks better on white. Also finalized the vanity plate transfer.

Vehicle registration plate Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle Automotive lighting Grille
 

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189 Posts
cleaned up a coffee spill, and while I was waiting for things to dry, I cleaned up the center console, including pulling apart the CVT shift knob to clean the insides and lubricate the button.

I also installed the accord hybrid badges on the white car, same as on the red one... looks better on white. Also finalized the vanity plate transfer.

View attachment 69209
Those accord badges do look pretty nice on there. What year accord hybrid badges?
 

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189 Posts
Had alignment done after replacing rear torsion beam, rear bearing hubs, new oem springs, tie rods and sway bar end links and a new passenger side cv axle. Rear toe is better but still slightly out. It feels fine so will watch tire wear and call it a wrap for that. The one in green is most recent. I wrote in the numbers in yellow as they printed somewhat smudged. The one in mostly black was previous to replacing the above parts and with tein H tech springs. The springs were too bouncy for my commute and I think I should have trimmed the bump stumps for them as well, which I did not do.

Handwriting Font Material property Parallel Paper

Handwriting Font Rectangle Parallel Number


I should note the tie rods probably only needed the rubber boots done but figured what the hell and changed em. Same with the bearing hubs. The end links definitely felt too loose although probably had a few more miles in them as well. Brand new shiny parts make me happy.
 

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Those accord badges do look pretty nice on there. What year accord hybrid badges?
not sure what year... part number is 75701-TWA-A00. Fits CRZ front and rear slots, but you have to cut the alignment pins off for the front on the crz. rear pops right on, with double sided tape.
 

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9,031 Posts
Did my annual Engine & Cabin filter changes (the new ones look the same as the old but changed them anyway) and replaced all 3 wiper blades took a whole 20 minutes and most of that was taking the stuff out of my glove box and opening the wiper packaging.

Next up is the State Safety and Emissions inspections, oil change (by time as it is at 30%), Tires cross rotation (with a re-torque of all the lug nuts after) and have my AC looked at.

Once I get it home, silicone spray for all the rubber for the openings to prevent sticking for the winter, Lithium grease for the latches and put the snow weapon back in the car. Reset air pressure in tires to the usual 33-35 when cold the next morning.
 

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2011 Honda CR-Z EX (CVT)
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345 Posts
Installed the Seibon VSII style carbon fiber hood that I waited 4 months for, now my Sprintex will get that heat extraction it needs. Next up is to find a way to make a custom vent rain guard for when its pouring rain.
 

· Modified 2016
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1,487 Posts
Installed the Seibon VSII style carbon fiber hood that I waited 4 months for, now my Sprintex will get that heat extraction it needs. Next up is to find a way to make a custom vent rain guard for when its pouring rain.
What intake do you have? I used to have a K&N intake and they sold a dryfilter sock that is water repellant. I've never had an issue with my Takeda because its inside an enclosed box for the most part. That BIG center hood vent was cutting down easily 50%+ of the heat my Sprintex was putting out. @96firephoenix can attest to the fact that mine wasn't quite as hot to the touch as his was after a hard run on the Dragon.
 

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2011 Honda CR-Z EX (CVT)
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345 Posts
What intake do you have? I used to have a K&N intake and they sold a dryfilter sock that is water repellant. I've never had an issue with my Takeda because its inside an enclosed box for the most part. That BIG center hood vent was cutting down easily 50%+ of the heat my Sprintex was putting out. @96firephoenix can attest to the fact that mine wasn't quite as hot to the touch as his was after a hard run on the Dragon.
If you look at my build thread, there is a picture showing I have a giant heat shield covering the top of my K&N typhoon intake, so it should be good from rain, but I'll probably end up buying a K&N dry filter just in case. I'll be using painters tape for covering the vent during heavy rain for now until I can make a custom rain guard.
 

· Modified 2016
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1,487 Posts
I reached out to HR by email to try and get some details on if/when they might be releasing some cables for us 6spd owners. Perhaps we can get a bunch to sign a petition or do a group buy special. Seems like a few of us have broken or bent cables and when I checked with Honda it was gonna be a multi weeks long wait on cables. Well see what response I get from them.
 

· Modified 2016
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1,487 Posts
So... I am swapping out my current header decat combo for an HKS metal catalyzer. Should wake up the car a bit more with the high flow cat. I've also wanted a touch more volume from my exhaust so hopefully this will accomplish that. The Japanese yen is weak now so I was able to get the header pipe combo about $400 cheaper by buying from Japan.
 
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2011 Honda CR-Z EX (CVT)
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345 Posts
Swapped out the Spoon front brake pads and put back in my Hawk Performance front pads due to loud metal noise when slowly braking at 1-4 mph. Maybe the pads needed even more time to break in, but the sound was just too obnoxious, so I had to take them out. The Spoon rear pads however, they don't make any noise which is good.
 

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533 Posts
Oil service @ 1 year/7300 miles/ 30%. Hardly any oil consumed.
Thought I was going to need to swap out a couple of wheels but didn't have to so just did a rotate/balance. The refurb wheels I had bought a while ago can go back in storage.
 

· Modified 2016
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1,487 Posts
Just got a tracking number from LRB Speed for my radiator panel. Should arrive in a few days. Next item il be ordering from them is the aluminum underpanel. It replaces all of the front engine plastics under the engine with aluminum panels and includes an access panel for the oil filter and drain plug.
 
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