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Lots of blood sweat and tears but... My homies car is running again. Injector harness was wrapped in electrical tape and wire conduit. No more blown fuses finally.
 

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Looks like in your postings after this the real issue was not the dead battery or having to jump start it but wiring issues with the injector harness. I am hoping under all the tape and loom good connections were made.

Rear LEDs unless they are for turn signals do not need anything. LED is Light Emitting Diode. If turn signals you need resistors not additional diodes. None of that should cause VSA or hill start assist lights. Under hood battery or other electrical issues will.

Its all good. Fuse was replaced with the same amperage and size fuse. His dying 12v combined with the constant jumping the car might have been the cause. He also has some rear LED lights that are popping VSA and hill start assist warnings That he needs to address with some diodes.
 

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Rear LEDs unless they are for turn signals do not need anything. LED is Light Emitting Diode. If turn signals you need resistors not additional diodes. None of that should cause VSA or hill start assist lights. Under hood battery or other electrical issues will.
I could be wrong but I'm guessing that he's talking about the LEDs on a pair of Insight(or similar) reflector lights. If you read some of the old postings regarding these types of Lights, a somewhat common issue with the lesser quality light options was throwing VSA errors. The CR-Z electrical system can be a bit sensitive at times.
 

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I could be wrong but I'm guessing that he's talking about the LEDs on a pair of Insight(or similar) reflector lights. If you read some of the old postings regarding these types of Lights, a somewhat common issue with the lesser quality light options was throwing VSA errors. The CR-Z electrical system can be a bit sensitive at times.
I had forgotten about those cheap lights and that issue. Depends which circuit you connect them to.
 

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If you're adding it to an existing circuit, ie splicing those reflector lights into one of the existing taillight wires like the instructions said to when they first came out then you're drawing more than designed and now everything for that circuit is inadequate from the gauge of wire to the fuse. The output is also reduced. Safest way to add lights is on a relay with its own circuit.

So if you want the reflector lights to come on with parking/headlights then splice the relay as close to that wire (the 'signal' or 'trigger') and then draw a separate fused independent 12V for the power for the lights.
 

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Unless of course you are splicing them into a circuit that you already upgraded to LED( from conventional) and the new LEDs will then balance out the circuit and you would need less of a resistor or no resistor. But relay is the safest way and then you do not have to worry about making sure you are not going to melt the wires.
If you're adding it to an existing circuit, ie splicing those reflector lights into one of the existing taillight wires like the instructions said to when they first came out then you're drawing more than designed and now everything for that circuit is inadequate from the gauge of wire to the fuse. The output is also reduced. Safest way to add lights is on a relay with its own circuit.

So if you want the reflector lights to come on with parking/headlights then splice the relay as close to that wire (the 'signal' or 'trigger') and then draw a separate fused independent 12V for the power for the lights.
 

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If you're adding it to an existing circuit, ie splicing those reflector lights into one of the existing taillight wires like the instructions said to when they first came out then you're drawing more than designed and now everything for that circuit is inadequate from the gauge of wire to the fuse. The output is also reduced. Safest way to add lights is on a relay with its own circuit.

So if you want the reflector lights to come on with parking/headlights then splice the relay as close to that wire (the 'signal' or 'trigger') and then draw a separate fused independent 12V for the power for the lights.
On my 2014 I did it the cheap, easy and "wrong" way. But the Insight lights started failing b4 I had any issues with the car side of things. If I were to do it again I'd just wire them up to a 4-way trailer hitch plug and hook in that way. I'd also use something a shelf or 2 above iJDMToy brand.
 

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On my 2014 I did it the cheap, easy and "wrong" way. But the Insight lights started failing b4 I had any issues with the car side of things. If I were to do it again I'd just wire them up to a 4-way trailer hitch plug and hook in that way. I'd also use something a shelf or 2 above iJDMToy brand.
Way back in the day when I first got into cars I did the same. But then I tested it using a camera on all manual settings recording the brightness of the stock output, the brightness of the supplementary lights directly off the 12V battery and then the aftermarket lights with the OEM lights on the same circuit. The output of both the factory lights and aftermarket lights was reduced when spliced into the same circuit. Same thing with aftermarket horns on existing horn circuit vs separate. Aftermarket horns directly off the 12V battery: very loud, but as soon as they're added into the OEM horn harness the output of both is reduced from their independent capabilities. Even if one eliminates the factory horns and uses only aftermarket horns in their place the amperage of third party horns is often higher than stock and so the factory wires (gauge), relay and fuse are insufficient for reliable and safe operation.

And as you mentioned with modern cars the MICU/canbus can detect these current discrepancies and can cause the haywire behavior and errors.

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Changed plugs today as part of some ongoing maintenance with the car at 99K. To my surprise the old plugs were loose, they didn't break free just came out with no effort. New ones are definitely tight now. ;)
Denso 3476, $12 each from RockAuto.
 

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Worked on my son's 15 CRZ. He managed to hit a deer and cracked the front grille and cowling right above the front bumper face. As it turned out, in order to replace the front grille piece, the entire front bumper face plastic part had to come out. It was minor enough damages, he did not want to make an insurance claim. After the deer, in a different incident, he also hit the lower corner of the bumper facepiece and made a big dent but not a crack, so it was a good opportunity to take it off and pop it back out.

The hardest part was removing all the plastic fasteners without breaking them in the process. Luckily, I had a bag of misc fasteners I bought from eBay to replace the broken ones. The OEM replacement parts (grille, garnish piece, and cowling) were incredibly expensive for what they are, but no issue with fitment. Not a professional job, but all in all, it looks better now and I am sure he saved a lot on not having gone through the insurance claim (i.e. deductible and subsequent premium hike).

Edit: added before(top) and after(bottom) photos. The red dots are the parts replaced/repaired.

Plant Vehicle Automotive lighting White Automotive tire
Car Vehicle Grille White Vehicle registration plate


Automotive parking light Car Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle Grille
Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Vehicle Car
 

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Considering the Mileage and the number of heat cool cycles it is very possible they would be loose even if tightened to specification when installed. I still remember a friend of mine with a different Honda who kept having plugs pop out of her car frequently. What is the proper torque for a spark plug? I have never looked it up.

Changed plugs today as part of some ongoing maintenance with the car at 99K. To my surprise the old plugs were loose, they didn't break free just came out with no effort. New ones are definitely tight now. ;)
Denso 3476, $12 each from RockAuto.
 

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Considering the Mileage and the number of heat cool cycles it is very possible they would be loose even if tightened to specification when installed. I still remember a friend of mine with a different Honda who kept having plugs pop out of her car frequently. What is the proper torque for a spark plug? I have never looked it up.
The torque spec on CRZ plugs is 10 ft/lbs.
 
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If it is the only reported accident many insurance companies will give you accident forgiveness and your rates do not go up. My attitude is if you have insurance (collision) and you have a no fault accident like this it makes sense to pay your deductible and have the car repaired properly. I had a hit and run and thought it would be minor but there was a lot of hidden damage and I had to work with my repair shop and the adjuster to get all parts replaced with OEM.

If you have liability only then that is different. So many make that assumption about rates going up but my rates even with no accidents or other claims for many years my rates still go up a little due to the ratings for where I live. All depends on where you are and what insurance you have selected. If you are happy with the results and the car is fully functional then that is all that matters.

Worked on my son's 15 CRZ. He managed to hit a deer and cracked the front grille and cowling right above the front bumper face. As it turned out, in order to replace the front grille piece, the entire front bumper face plastic part had to come out. It was minor enough damages, he did not want to make an insurance claim. After the deer, in a different incident, he also hit the lower corner of the bumper facepiece and made a big dent but not a crack, so it was a good opportunity to take it off and pop it back out.

The hardest part was removing all the plastic fasteners without breaking them in the process. Luckily, I had a bag of misc fasteners I bought from eBay to replace the broken ones. The OEM replacement parts (grille, garnish piece, and cowling) were incredibly expensive for what they are, but no issue with fitment. Not a professional job, but all in all, it looks better now and I am sure he saved a lot on not having gone through the insurance claim (i.e. deductible and subsequent premium hike).
 

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If it is the only reported accident many insurance companies will give you accident forgiveness and your rates do not go up.
Yeah, if he had no prior records, then maybe. But he managed to total his previous car twice in the past 5 years. It was my old HCH and he was still on my insurance then. After the second accident, I had to remove him from my policy and he got his own car (CRZ purchased used at a very reasonable price) and his own insurance (already super high rate). Yep, asked him if he wanted to go through the insurance, but he did not want to risk another major premium hike.
 

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Changed plugs today as part of some ongoing maintenance with the car at 99K. To my surprise the old plugs were loose, they didn't break free just came out with no effort. New ones are definitely tight now. ;)
Denso 3476, $12 each from RockAuto.
Considering the Mileage and the number of heat cool cycles it is very possible they would be loose even if tightened to specification when installed. I still remember a friend of mine with a different Honda who kept having plugs pop out of her car frequently. What is the proper torque for a spark plug? I have never looked it up.
The torque spec on CRZ plugs is 10 ft/lbs.
There are Fit owners reporting the same; loose or backed out spark plugs. I had one back out many many miles after a plug change on the crz. Would smell raw exhaust when idling with outside air fan on so now I crank them a little bit tighter as well.

Could be heat cycling, the plug change interval is much longer than previous generation engines. Use antiseize as instructed and just torque them a bit more.
 

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When installing new plugs they get tightened enough to crush the sealing ring, then a bit more. Once it gets past the crush zone and stops you don't want to keep going as there is a risk of stripping the threads in the head from too much torque and that is a lot worse than a loose plug later on. I used a stubby ratchet because of the limited clearance back there but still had no problem getting them gudntight. Antiseize of course, a must with dissimilar metals and a long service interval.
Maybe after some miles I'll check to make sure they are staying that way.
 

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Bit the bullet on some Wilwood brakes. These are 12.2" rotors vs my stock 10.3" rotors I'm currently running. Should be a noticable upgrade in stopping power and brake fade resistance.
 
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Today I washed my CR-Z, cleaned the air filter and cabin filter, and replaced the floor mats (OEM ones again). During washing the car, I wondered if the front turn signal bulbs can be replaced by clear ones. So clear bulbs that produce amber light, but I don’t want to upgrade to LED. Do halogen turn signal bulbs that produce amber light while being clear when turned off even exist?
 

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Today I washed my CR-Z, cleaned the air filter and cabin filter, and replaced the floor mats (OEM ones again). During washing the car, I wondered if the front turn signal bulbs can be replaced by clear ones. So clear bulbs that produce amber light, but I don’t want to upgrade to LED. Do halogen turn signal bulbs that produce amber light while being clear when turned off even exist?
You can get switchback turn signals that are white when the turn signals are off.
 

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You can get switchback turn signals that are white when the turn signals are off.
I think you mean that switchback turn signals would produce white light too, right?

Sorry that I wasn’t so clear, but sometimes English is hard. ;) I will try to explain it better. The turn signal bulbs of my CR-Z are amber, so the glass of the bulb itself. So when standing in front of the car (car turned off, no lights on), the amber glass of the bulbs reflects in the headlight housing. That got me wondering if there are simple halogen turn signal bulbs available that have clear glass, but still produce amber light.

Hopefully I am a bit more clear now. If not, just ask!
 
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