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Brake jorb, the other day. Cleaned/lubed slide pins, new pads, rotors, fluid.







Also considering switching to the older Saga made studs cause getting pretty sick of this crap, Honda.



No more UGGA DUGGA tire change shops for you, time to go hand tool only.
 

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Also considering switching to the older Saga made studs cause getting pretty sick of this crap, Honda.
I've had a few studs do that, every time it was after a tire shop did something. I just got $2 studs from advance auto. It takes like 20 minutes to replace them.
 

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Are there any Grade 8 or other hardened steel Studs available? The issue is the misuse of impact wrenchs and improper torque settings on them or misuse of Torque sticks. Unless you can always use your own hand tools and torque wrench eventually you will need to replace all 20 studs and nuts. :(
 

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jeebus. all of my studs are fine... but then again I'm the only one that really ever works on my cars. FOR THIS EXACT REASON.

For what it's worth, Costco Tire center only uses hand tools to install.
 

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Mine are fine so far but considering some of the monkeys that do tire work on cars I fully expect damaged studs eventually. When I can and my car is being worked on as I have mentioned before I stand where I can watch the "technicians" work on my car and while doing that I have caught a few "technicians' doing damage. One went in a circle replacing the lug nuts others have have used the impact wrench on the key and one shop damaged the holes in the wheels, etc. (That shop had my wheels refinished at their expense. That was when my under hood battery died while it was up on jack stands in their shop.)

I always hand the shop my padded socket with my key and have the shop order marked with a note to hand torque only. Then when work is done I use my breaker bar and torque wrench and re-torque all the lug nuts in the parking lot when the service is complete then re-torque a few weeks later.

Most reputable shops are careful but many are not and due to the way they are set up speed is more important than care.
 

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No more UGGA DUGGA tire change shops for you, time to go hand tool only.
I've had a few studs do that, every time it was after a tire shop did something. I just got $2 studs from advance auto. It takes like 20 minutes to replace them.
Except that I do all my own work and it is in fact all by hand. All genuine OEM Honda only, breaker bar for removal and a $400 Snap On torque wrench for tightening. I'm saying Honda must have had a batch of bad studs. The Japanese made studs have never done this.

Last time I needed to use impact was on a B-series crank pulley bolt.
 

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Are there any Grade 8 or other hardened steel Studs available? The issue is the misuse of impact wrenchs and improper torque settings on them or misuse of Torque sticks. Unless you can always use your own hand tools and torque wrench eventually you will need to replace all 20 studs and nuts. :(
In fairness, the tire shop did use a torque wrench to torque the lug nuts. I was perched like a bird outside watching them work on my car.
 

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But did they use an Air wrench to remove and possibly to reinstall and then do final torque with a torque wrench? I have seen many when removing or reinstalling not thread the lug nuts by hand and just spin them on with the air wrench and if the lug lut is not perfectly straight it will go on but chew up the studs.

I watch like a hawk too and put the note on the work order and explain my concerns when I bring the car in but i still have seen issues as I described the damaged wheels was the worst.

In fairness, the tire shop did use a torque wrench to torque the lug nuts. I was perched like a bird outside watching them work on my car.
 

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Got my Spoon swaybar in the mail today. Excited to put it on. Just need to get some front subframe collars to go with it.
 

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But did they use an Air wrench to remove and possibly to reinstall and then do final torque with a torque wrench? I have seen many when removing or reinstalling not thread the lug nuts by hand and just spin them on with the air wrench and if the lug lut is not perfectly straight it will go on but chew up the studs.

I watch like a hawk too and put the note on the work order and explain my concerns when I bring the car in but i still have seen issues as I described the damaged wheels was the worst.
they used an electric impact to install them. I didn't notice if the started them by hand or if the started them with the impact. I also used an impact myself to remove them
 

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To each their own. I use hand tools and am very careful I have as I said had my wheels damaged and do not trust the torque settings for the Impact tools. The more times they are over torqued the more chance of stretching the studs, Damaging them or breaking them, or not being able to remove a wheel without the impact gun.
they used an electric impact to install them. I didn't notice if the started them by hand or if the started them with the impact. I also used an impact myself to remove them
 

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they used an electric impact to install them. I didn't notice if the started them by hand or if the started them with the impact. I also used an impact myself to remove them
I use my electric impact to seat them but only because I'm lazy and it's old and worn out and so long as you don't hold it down for more than one or two ugga duggas, it can't go past 70lbft
 

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I use my electric impact to seat them but only because I'm lazy and it's old and worn out and so long as you don't hold it down for more than one or two ugga duggas, it can't go past 70lbft
Yeah that's what I do, I just set my impact to the low setting so I can properly seat the wheel, and then let the car down and use a proper torque wrench. I do start all the nuts by hand too.
 

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I replaced the front hubs a while ago while doing wheel bearings and they came with studs installed, those studs have not had a single issue and they're a noticeably different stud than the individual replacement part listed for the CR-Z you'd get under the Honda parts list. It appears to be those USA "assembled" studs you'd get as replacements listed under the CR-Z and only a particular batch of them at that.

Always hand threaded, tightened by hand and then torqued to spec. OEM Honda wheels, Honda lugs, properly torqued in cross-sequence 'star' pattern.

The point was there seems to have been a mediocre batch of Honda lug studs or the quality of the CR-Z part is lacking in general. Been doing this for 16 years across numerous different Hondas from the early '90s to late 2010 models, many of them pre-owned cars that certainly had impact used on them, but not a single issue. Used to swap wheels/tires dozens of times a year, way more than most vehicle owners, for HPDE/track events and back to daily driving wheels and never had a problem but have snapped or stripped an unusual number of that specific CR-Z listed stud part. It was just a heads up to others if they experience this and thinking about trying other Honda studs.
 

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Copped a Cusco performance bar from someone that lives an hour away from me for $70. Easy install. Installs in the same place the beatrush front performance bar installs to. Should be an easy install for me.
 
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