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2012 Honda CR-Z GT Takeda momentum+fit ge8 intakemanifold,custom exhaust,eibach pro kit 25mm
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3 Posts
110tkm service=ge8 intakemanifold, new denso iridium+ valve chek. Diy 2nd cat delete😄
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2014 CR-Z, Base, CVT
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462 Posts
Had my Aliexpress special installed today. Looks awesome, and works great, nice having the backup cam.

One problem is the Hazard Button, doesn't fit correctly, and hence didn't work, installer mocked up there for now.
I've read somethings about this potentially being an issue.
Seems like might have to get the Japanese red button, if someone knows off the top, please let me know, thanks!!!


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Have the same stereo with the same issue with the hazard switch. I just hot glued it in place.

I literally just remembered that @Spdbump asked why I didn't replace the button with the correct one. From what I've read, the red JDM button is the one I need, but it is quite desirable and not so easy to find, nor too cheap. I didn't think it was worth the hassle and extra cost. To be honest, I haven't really looked into it though. As for the airbag panel, I like the little CR-Z one I made. I may re-make it with better settings on my 3d printer, or I may just cut off the little mounting tabs off the spare one I got a few weeks ago and glue it in, or something. I have more important plans for the car, though, so these are pretty far down the list.
 
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Have the same stereo with the same issue with the hazard switch. I just hot glued it in place.

I literally just remembered that @Spdbump asked why I didn't replace the button with the correct one. From what I've read, the red JDM button is the one I need, but it is quite desirable and not so easy to find, nor too cheap. I didn't think it was worth the hassle and extra cost. To be honest, I haven't really looked into it though. As for the airbag panel, I like the little CR-Z one I made. I may re-make it with better settings on my 3d printer, or I may just cut off the little mounting tabs off the spare one I got a few weeks ago and glue it in, or something. I have more important plans for the car, though, so these are pretty far down the list.
Cool


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2014 CR-Z, Base, CVT
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I had to move my car, and since its dark I decided to adjust my headlights because they're aiming too high. I shut off the engine, and after about a minute one of the lights flickered and then turned off. I thought it was a bad connection and as I was fiddling with it I noticed the other light turned off as well, and the LED strip I installed was extremely dim. Turned off the lights, started the car, and lights were back to normal. Yep, 12v battery is very, VERY dead, never seen one this bad. Yesterday I drove the car and had no issues whatsoever, so I'm guessing the 12v batt has to be extremely damaged for all the weirdness some have experienced to occur. It's 5 months out of warranty and is prorated, so hopefully I get a decent discount on a new one.
 

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You do not have to order the red one. You just need the part number for navigation as opposed to non navigation and I bought mine as part of my project when I ordered other parts from same vendor. The one I ordered happens to be the red non navigation one as I did not upgrade the radio. I ordered mine from

The information below was based on searching for 2013. I doubt the part numbers changed in different years except maybe 2016. Neither of these is the other domestic market red ones. These are the USDM part numbers.
Navigation Hazard Switch part number
35510-SZT-A21 Switch Assy., Hazard $32.77

Non Navigation Part number
35510-SZT-A01 Switch Assy., Hazard Discontinued

I did not look or was able to find the part numbers for the passenger side light. Another thread mentioned that this may fit both or can be trimmed and still not need glue.

You maybe able to search for these part numbers online and find them less expensive.


@MrFastFox666 There was no reason to mention me in this post at all. Making the replacement must have cost you something. Your time has a cost too. Making something 3D printed has a cost too. Some of us do not have that kind of cash and have to order what exists and is easy to get.



Have the same stereo with the same issue with the hazard switch. I just hot glued it in place.

I literally just remembered that @Spdbump asked why I didn't replace the button with the correct one. From what I've read, the red JDM button is the one I need, but it is quite desirable and not so easy to find, nor too cheap. I didn't think it was worth the hassle and extra cost. To be honest, I haven't really looked into it though. As for the airbag panel, I like the little CR-Z one I made. I may re-make it with better settings on my 3d printer, or I may just cut off the little mounting tabs off the spare one I got a few weeks ago and glue it in, or something. I have more important plans for the car, though, so these are pretty far down the list.
 

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2011 CR-Z
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You posted pictures of a bunch of keys, and said you were going to give this a try. Give what a try? Or was it just trying to post pictures?
Get the flip key to work. In previous threads, people mentioned the blank key being to wide to fit the milling machine or really tight to fit the ignition. That and others mentioning the circuit board being too far and needing to be modified. FYI, this isn't OEM, just a key I got off eBay.
 

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Get the flip key to work. In previous threads, people mentioned the blank key being to wide to fit the milling machine or really tight to fit the ignition. That and others mentioning the circuit board being too far and needing to be modified. FYI, this isn't OEM, just a key I got off eBay.
I did the same.
I assume you were successful?
 

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Doesn't each key have a coded permanent chip which is not changeable and that code has to be entered ino the car to allow car to start when key in ignition??

Infinite as long as they're all coded the same. Like TPMS sensors.
 

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2012 EX
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24 Posts
Went and stared angrily at the new rusty front calipers only about 2 months old via O'Reilly and pondering my change options.
And now studying up the wireless backup cam that was Christmas gift.
 

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2 weeks ago I obtained 4 Amp Fully Automatic Microprocessor Controlled Battery Charger/Maintainer for $27 and installed the ring connector cable Semi-permanently on The Speed Bump. I attached it to the wall in my rental garage with 2 wall board screws, 2 cable clamps, 4 Cable ties and 3 hook and loop Cable ties. I have been hooking it up and plugging it in every time I have parked the car since then and noticed my Scan Gauge II more frequently shows over 14 Volts when being driven ( Still drops as low as 12.5 once in while and lower when car is not running). It takes 5 minutes when I park to pop the hood and undo the hook and loop ties and plug it into the extension cord I ran from the ceiling outlet near the garage door opener. Since car is being driven less and less I thought this was a good idea for the health of the under hood battery. Attached is pictures of the battery end and the device on the wall. When I first plugged it in it indicated red for a while now every time I go to the car it indicates from 12.5 to 13 volts after charge. For the price of the device and a few items from my supplies I think it was a worthwhile investment. The manual for it is attached but for the life of me I can't figure out the winter mode! Manual is very minimal. Hope this information helps others.
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In the past, on another car I had the calipers removed and had a professional clean all the rust off and then paint with High temperature caliper paint in black and they stayed decent looking till I sold the car. Others on this forum have done the job themselves. Some of the after market calipers come powder coated not sure if you can powder coat our calipers but I do not see why not? I am very happy with the coated brake rotors I had put on in February they are not flash rusting at all when it is wet out.

Went and stared angrily at the new rusty front calipers only about 2 months old via O'Reilly and pondering my change options.
And now studying up the wireless backup cam that was Christmas gift.
 

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2012 EX
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Thanks sir Bump. So far not a fan of the reman calipers. On the 2nd set as first ones kept weeping around the bleeder screws. One was even leaking and dripping from the piston seal, so swapped them out. Those also rusted in just 3-4 weeks. To the point of getting a used set and re sealing them myself. Had many Hondas since the mide 80's and after literally well over a million miles of road use, never had any calipers rust on the surface as these reman units have. Suppose it is due to how they supposedly "tumble " cleaned and refinihsed them. Not a vain man, but the rusty calipers are just unsettling to me.
 
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