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Tell us if it fixed wheel hop when spinning wheels with VSA off.
I just put new tires on... I didn't have any wheel hop, but i have no idea if the bushings or tires are the cause.

I suppose i could put the wheels with the older set on and try to get some wheel hop... For scientific purposes of course.

 

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2012 Sport / manual / NSBP
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I just put new tires on... I didn't have any wheel hop, but i have no idea if the bushings or tires are the cause.

I suppose i could put the wheels with the older set on and try to get some wheel hop... For scientific purposes of course.

Are your wheels loosing traction? My CRZ is manual and in first gear with VSA turned off, if I press the accelerator pedal to the floor the wheels loose traction. My tires are pretty new too.
So, when I floor it on first gear, the wheels bounce instead of spinning in place. I've been reading about it and there are some articles saying that this effect can happen if the suspension have too much play in axis that is parallel to the car. Instead of spinning in place, the wheel traction is greater than the strength of the bushings so it can move a bit on the bushings, then it looses traction and slips back a bit and then it gains traction again, so it bounces front to back. Stiffer bushings should help in theory. I can spin the wheels on slightly more slippery surface, like cobblestone pavement, without the wheel hop, but on asphalt it's terrible :(
 

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Are your wheels loosing traction? My CRZ is manual and in first gear with VSA turned off, if I press the accelerator pedal to the floor the wheels loose traction. My tires are pretty new too.
So, when I floor it on first gear, the wheels bounce instead of spinning in place. I've been reading about it and there are some articles saying that this effect can happen if the suspension have too much play in axis that is parallel to the car. Instead of spinning in place, the wheel traction is greater than the strength of the bushings so it can move a bit on the bushings, then it looses traction and slips back a bit and then it gains traction again, so it bounces front to back. Stiffer bushings should help in theory. I can spin the wheels on slightly more slippery surface, like cobblestone pavement, without the wheel hop, but on asphalt it's terrible :(
I'm aware of what wheel hop is and how much of a nuisance it is on these cars. I am actually gonna put my old worn put wheels on tonight and see if they hop at the same spots where they were hopping before the new tires.
 

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I'm aware of what wheel hop is and how much of a nuisance it is on these cars. I am actually gonna put my old worn put wheels on tonight and see if they hop at the same spots where they were hopping before the new tires.
It's the main reason I'm considering poly bushings for quite some time already, probably gonna get them next year while doing other serious mods and I hope it helps. More precise steering is also an added value.
If you have time to swap the wheels then thanks in advance, but it's not neccessary to swap it just to check it, maybe just test it if you will be going to swap them anyway for other reason.
 

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It's the main reason I'm considering poly bushings for quite some time already, probably gonna get them next year while doing other serious mods and I hope it helps. More precise steering is also an added value.
If you have time to swap the wheels then thanks in advance, but it's not neccessary to swap it just to check it, maybe just test it if you will be going to swap them anyway for other reason.
I wad bored. I put the previous set of wheels/tires on the front and did some science experiments.

For anyone else wondering: wheel hop is about 80% gone under hard driving. I had to clutch dump on gravel to get any wheel hop in a straight line, and it was a lot less noticable than it was previously.

Most of my wheel hop incidents were on left turns. Got almost none until i absolutely floored it turning left.

Under normal driving though: no wheel hop in situations where i had wheel hop previously.
 

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2012 Sport / manual / NSBP
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Replaced the handle, took me less than an hour - I'm becoming expert in disassembling doors.


Also fished out a bolt that I've lost last time when reinstalling the old handle in total darkness after temporary fix. On top of that, I did a small mod, slided a nut as a spacer on the bent rod that pushes on the lock so the handle unlocks it earlier, with less travel and force required. I hope it will help a bit with the longevity of this stuff.

It looks something like this (mspaint drawing, not pretty):
62375

Blue is the spacer, black is the lock, red is the pushrod that connects the handle with the lock.
 

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2014 CR-Z, Base, CVT
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I spent most of last week doing some 'paint correction' on my car, and I say that in quotes because I don't really know what I'm doing. Considering that my training consists entirely of watching a few YouTube videos, and I have nearly no experience whatsoever, I think this turned out great.

After
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Before.
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As usual, the camera doesn't really do it justice. The car now has a nice glossy finish, and the reflection is almost as clear as it is on any glass surface. Before, the reflection was kinda dull and not clear, and the car didn't have such a nice, shiny finish. I also properly sanded and polished the headlights which thankfully got rid of almost all of the yellowing, which made a huge difference to the overall look of the car.

I started by completely degreasing the car with dish soap. Then I used clay bar to decontaminate the paint. Then I wet-sanded the whole car (except for the bumpers, rear hatch roof and rear hatch panel under rear glass) until most of the orange peel was gone and the car was mostly matte. Then I used some Meguiars Ultimate compound on a medium cut foam pad with a dual action polisher to remove the sanding marks and bring back the shine, then I used Meguiars Swirl Remover 2.0 with an ultra fine finishing foam pad on the polisher to give the paint a bit of a deeper shine, then I degreased again with dish soap, and finally I applied Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax to seal the paint.

Interestingly enough, I noticed that any plastic parts don't get nearly the same shine as metal parts do, hence why I didn't sand and polish the bumpers. I tried wet-sanding an area of the bumper beforehand, and even though there was improvement, it was nowhere near as good as the rest of the car, and not worth the effort. I got rear ended at about 2 mph, so another section of the rear bumper was repainted by someone who knows what they're doing, and this section also has less shine than the rest of the car. Same with the gas cap. I treated it no different than the rest of the car, but it's not as shiny. Still, I'm super happy and proud with the results.
 

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2015 Honda CR-Z Base MT PWP
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Looks great! I was actually planning to do a lot of the same steps as you (clay, meguiars ultimate compound, 205 polish, hybrid solutions ceramic coating) so I'm encouraged to see good results. Did you use any sealant or ppf on your headlights after sanding and polishing?

I picked up some solution finish black plastic restorer to use on the black plastic bits since I figured that was about the best I could do with the plastic trim pieces.
 

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2014 CR-Z, Base, CVT
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Looks great! I was actually planning to do a lot of the same steps as you (clay, meguiars ultimate compound, 205 polish, hybrid solutions ceramic coating) so I'm encouraged to see good results. Did you use any sealant or ppf on your headlights after sanding and polishing?

I picked up some solution finish black plastic restorer to use on the black plastic bits since I figured that was about the best I could do with the plastic trim pieces.
On the lights I used the hybrid ceramic as well.

On the black plastics, I found that Meguiars Ultimate Tire Shine (the purple gel. Can't remember the exact name) works great. I apply a very tiny bit on a microfiber towel and work it in. It gives the plastics a very nice deep black color without making them look wet or oily. It seems to last a good time too, about a month, at least.

On one of the panels, I did everything I listed above except sanding. There was a slight improvement, but not much. The paint didn't look too bad, originally, the main issue was all the orange-peel. On the rear hatch roof, the paint was very dull and oxidized, and it did turn out great without any sanding. It looks about 95% as good as the rest of the roof, but I suspect that it's mainly because you always look at it from an extreme angle and not head-on.
 
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Picked up this rear diffuser today off Craigslist for $50. No you don’t need to remove your bumper to remove the rear diffuser. Just need to remove 6 clips but the 2 clips you have to worry about is the 1st clip on the left and 6th clip on the right cause you could easily destroy the tab or the clip. Here’s how the rear diffuser looks like.






Night shot



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Nice score on the rear diffuser. That looks awesome.

I have been watching my Craigslist for a front bumper. Mine has a tear in it that keeps growing.....
 

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Installed a new CVT shifter in the car today. It gives a sportier look.
Looks great, I am going to look that part up on eBay.
Nice find.

IMG_3132.jpg

IMG_3131.jpg

IMG_3130.jpg

Found it on eBay, which do you think looks better? I like the Red!
 
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