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2012 Sport / manual / NSBP
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Just did a longer test with the amp hidden to check if it's overheating or not. First I did over 200km x2 with music playing at listening levels, then I did another test with around 20 minutes at max volume. Looks like it's working fine, but the amp can definitely push more power than the stock woofer can handle. The amp is set to the lowest gain and almost the lowest fire and still the bass isn't as clear as I'd like it to be when the volume is turned up to the max. It's not a big deal, because I usually don't listen that loud, so I'll leave it as it is for some time, but I might upgrade the driver in the future to something stronger that fits the factory box.

 

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Let the wife drive it to work for the time being... hope my wheels come back in good shape...
Good luck, I already rashes mine more than once T_T. Dead inside.

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Good luck, I already rashes mine more than once T_T. Dead inside.

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I've glanced two wheels on the Z already. I cringe every time I swipe a curb in the Z.
 

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I won't comment on parking "technique" but I will say that more tire and less wheel help to prevent curb rash when distance is miss judged a bit. And I know small wheels don't look as cool as big ones but curbed wheels don't look cool either.
Facts!

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2012 Sport / manual / NSBP
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So, I've started taking my passenger seat apart to install heating mats and noticed this:
61982


Looks like I already have heating mats in my seats, with all the wiring, relays and connectors. The only thing that I'm missing is wiring inside the car to connect them. That makes things easier, but also delays my project by a week - now I have to order OEM connectors, because I don't want to cut the connectors from the seats and replace it with something different:

61983


Also, all the relays are already installed in the seats and they are all working - tested it with power supply

61985


...so basically all I have to do is to connect +12V, ground and the last 2 pins are +12V from switches, one is high and one is low. Looks like they are all connected the same way as I did with my custom relay pack (resistance varies between 3Ohm and 12 Ohm depends on which relay I activate)

61984


which is useless now, wasted money.

So, now I have to sell the heating mats, relays I'll probably keep, might be usefull in some other projects in the future.

I'm reinstalling the seat for now (also checked driver's seat and it does have the same connector and relays), ordering OEM connectors, soldering a new wiring and I'm gonna finish this project next week.
 

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This would mean that European CR-Zs without heated seats have the same seats as the ones with heated seats, right? If so, that’s quite interesting. :)
 

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This would mean that European CR-Zs without heated seats have the same seats as the ones with heated seats, right? If so, that’s quite interesting. :)
Looks like it. Not sure about all the versions, mine are gray cloth seats. I've googled a bit and found photo of underside of the US cloth seats and they were a bit weird, passenger seat had the same connector as we do for heating mats, but it didn't have the relays, while driver seat didn't have connector nor relays.

Anyway, my seat is reinstalled for now.
IMG_20200808_153155.jpg IMG_20200808_153203.jpg IMG_20200808_154616.jpg
 

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I would expect many parts from outside vendors would have things not needed in all variations to keep the part numbers down to a minimum with JIT (Just In Time) manufacturing. Remember CR-Zs are very low production cars so anything they can do to make the economies of scale work I presume they did to lower the cost per unit. The less variation the higher the volume the lower cost per unit. Basic Economics. That is why USDM cars have the tilt for the seat back on the drivers side where it should be on the passenger side to allow access to the rear area but in countries with RHD that lever is on the curb side. Also look at how the seat belt attaches and the differences there.
 

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I would expect many parts from outside vendors would have things not needed in all variations to keep the part numbers down to a minimum with JIT (Just In Time) manufacturing. Remember CR-Zs are very low production cars so anything they can do to make the economies of scale work I presume they did to lower the cost per unit. The less variation the higher the volume the lower cost per unit. Basic Economics. That is why USDM cars have the tilt for the seat back on the drivers side where it should be on the passenger side to allow access to the rear area but in countries with RHD that lever is on the curb side. Also look at how the seat belt attaches and the differences there.
yea, but then you have stupid shit like one-touch window switches on both windows everywhere except North America - ideally would be easier and cheaper to source one window switch 3x on all models instead of having the NA version be different, and need a diff't RH window motor than the rest of the world, a diff't wiring harness than the rest of the world...

Also, the other JDM only features (dip the mirror in reverse, power fold mirrors, etc..) - why do special work for such a relatively small market and then not broaden it to the whole car??
 

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I was trying to get my interior professionally detailed but a lot of shops & mobile details in my area were all booked up today. I decided that it was time to buy one of these Bissell Little Green ProHeat so I don’t have to deal with what I went through earlier. So far I deep cleaned the both seats top down and wiped with the leather with leather wipes. Going to work on the carpet next then I’m using Griots Interior cleaner all around the dash, door panels, plastic pieces around.




Here’s how much dirt came off the seats alone. I’m guilty, I’ve spilled drinks on the driver & passenger side seats smh.



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I use the Bissell Pro Heat 2x carpet cleaner and it works just like that spot cleaner. Just have to make sure it is a day when no rain is expected since it is an indoor device. Uses the same tool you show on a similar hose. I like doing the work myself and I find it Therapy. The cleaner for the upholstery and carpet like substances. Invisible glass for the glass. And i have used Back To Black trim restorer on the dash top. After i did the Upostery the first time I treated with Rustoleum NeverWet for fabrics. I also use the VLR Vinyl and leather cleaner for the seat trim.

I was trying to get my interior professionally detailed but a lot of shops & mobile details in my area were all booked up today. I decided that it was time to buy one of these Bissell Little Green ProHeat so I don’t have to deal with what I went through earlier. So far I deep cleaned the both seats top down and wiped with the leather with leather wipes. Going to work on the carpet next then I’m using Griots Interior cleaner all around the dash, door panels, plastic pieces around.




Here’s how much dirt came off the seats alone. I’m guilty, I’ve spilled drinks on the driver & passenger side seats smh.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2015 Honda CR-Z Base MT PWP
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Just installed the Ultra racing room bar. Just a heads up to anyone that decides to do this, ignore the two rearward holes and just use the existing bolts on the front two holes. No need to drill holes. Info/photo from Ultra racing.

62080
 
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