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Discussion Starter #1
MODS feel free to move if wrong forum.

There is a CRZ that was in a roll-over accident. (Thank God the kid walked away with only a scratch)

What parts can or
should I swap into the base model?

So far, I did the seats.

It's a bring your own tools kinda deal.

So next up are the
door panels which are nicer and the passenger flip down vanity mirror.

(This is were I realized all the little things that are skimpped out on in the base model)

Is there anything else like this I can swap out?

Under the hood?

Like the hands free blue tooth? Or the audio components.

It's basically a donor EX model.

I'm a newb, so if anyone is more well versed in the differences between the two models and have recommendations . I'd appreciate it.

Already gone:
Steering wheel
Cargo cover
Rims
 

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2014 CR-Z, Base, CVT
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does it have the illuminated door sill?
Also, the subwoofer in the trunk area can be swapped. Not sure how to wire it up using the OEM amplifier, which is behind the glove box, I think.
 

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Base radio will need to be swapped with the EX radio(may need some custom wiring) as the base does not have the amplifier you are talking about( which is in compartment under radio in console). If you can get the parts of the EX headlights and harness that would be cool. Steering wheel is nicer on EX too. A lot of the interior trim you want the EX trim. Can't think of anything else right now you may have to look at Honda parts now and compare models and parts. Illuminate sills were always a dealer installed options but there are foot well lights an EX has the Base does not

does it have the illuminated door sill?
Also, the subwoofer in the trunk area can be swapped. Not sure how to wire it up using the OEM amplifier, which is behind the glove box, I think.
 

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2014 CR-Z, Base, CVT
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Base radio will need to be swapped with the EX radio(may need some custom wiring) as the base does not have the amplifier you are talking about( which is in compartment under radio in console). If you can get the parts of the EX headlights and harness that would be cool. Steering wheel is nicer on EX too. A lot of the interior trim you want the EX trim. Can't think of anything else right now you may have to look at Honda parts now and compare models and parts. Illuminate sills were always a dealer installed options but there are foot well lights an EX has the Base does not
Oh yeah, I forgot about the headlights. The cool headlights are only on 2013 and newer models, at least in North America.

If I were in this position, I'd take the subwoofer and hook it up using an aftermarket amplifier.

Also, I recently found what I believe to be an EX at a junkyard (it had a sub, the radio with navigation and a leather wheel) and it didn't have the footwell lighting. Someone had already removed a bunch of parts and had made a mess, but it didn't look like they removed anything from the footwell. The lights were not there, though, the little slot where they go was empty.
 

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EX is still HID instead of Halogen for low beam Why not get the OEM amplifier just have to do a little rewiring and if you get matching head unit it is an easy wiring job.
 

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You might want to get the glove box and right/left door handles, just for the sake of having the extra parts on hand as those latches will/may eventually break on your original car.
 

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You don't have external amplifier in base model, so the radio doesn't output raw sound signal, but already amplified. You could tap directly into motherboard to get to the raw signal, average electronic would be able to do it. Aftermarker monoblock amps usually have a crossover filter so it would be possible to connect full-range signal to the amp and filter it to power the subwoofer with some bass.
For this you need:
  • the subwoofer with casing
  • trunk side plastic cover
  • trunk floor
  • piece of metal sheet with 2 holes (you will be missing 2 mounting points in the car's body and only one will have a threads, so I've added 1 more mounting point and screwed it with 3 bolts - look at the photo below)
  • some screws
61611
61613



Another easy upgrade is heated seats. The best option is to buy OEM panel with switches and standard aftermarket kit with mats and use OEM switches instead of the provided with kit. For this upgrade you will have to disassemble seats to install mats.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow thanks for all the input guys!

The amp and sub are gone unfortunately.

Are the other EX speakers any better than then base?

The "internals" of the driver side handle is gone. But the handle is still there.

Good idea on the glove box.

TheDoor sills I dont believe are illuminated.

I will look for foot well lights next time I am there.

There's glass everywhere, so it's difficult to poke around the car without knowing beforehand where components are...
 

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The rest of the radio and speakers is the same I believe but we have not been able to confirm the output of the factory radios in both the Base and the EX. You could always get all the parts for the radio from Used CRZ Parts | Honda | 2011-2016 | Redline Auto Parts it will require a little bit of wiring skill to add the missing connections to your base. In the long run might be better to go aftermarket for radio upgrade as that would provide a plug in experience.
 

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The rest of the radio and speakers is the same I believe but we have not been able to confirm the output of the factory radios in both the Base and the EX. You could always get all the parts for the radio from Used CRZ Parts | Honda | 2011-2016 | Redline Auto Parts it will require a little bit of wiring skill to add the missing connections to your base. In the long run might be better to go aftermarket for radio upgrade as that would provide a plug in experience.
I think that I know how it works. I was helping someone to install aftermarket head unit in CRZ with amplifier. I was talking with him online and we figured out how to connect the head unit.

In base radio, without amp, the output from the radio is connected directly to speakers, but the radio itself can output either amplified or not amplified signal. There's a signal on pin 22 (look at the schematics below) that tells the radio that an amplifier exists to output not amplified signal.
1594024563392.png

Then the radio tells the amplifier to turn on on pin 21. Both should probably have 12V (I wasn't there with a multimeter to measure it, but it's mostly like this in cars). If the radio detects 12V on pin 22, it outputs raw signal that you can connect to amplifier (either OEM or any other external amp).

So, if you want to install subwoofer to factory radio, you can buy a factory amp (or aftermarket amp, just make sure to not get anything stronger than 20A, because that would require complete audio overhaul, probably also installing an alternator).

I don't know whether or not there are plugs to connect factory amp already in the car, but what I'm sure you can do:
  • cut pins 5, 6, 9, 10, 15, 16, 19, 20
  • connect pins 5 and 6 from the radio to amplifier RL audio input
  • connect pins 9 and 10 from the radio to amplifier RR audio input
  • connect pins 15 and 16 from the radio to amplifier FL audio input
  • connect pins 19 and 20 from the radio to amplifier FR audio input
If you are using factory amp, skip steps below:
- if you are using an aftermarket amp and it requires a separate subwoofer input then you need to mix outputs from FL and FR, there are devices called signal merger, like this one: US $39.9 |Stereo linii poziomu izolacji sumator Stereo do Mono linia konwertera poziom mikser Audio z isolaion L/R do Mono wyjście|Akcesoria do projektora| - AliExpress
You can probably find a chaper one, just pasted first link.
  • Connect pins 15 and 16 from the radio to signal merger input 1
  • Connect pins 19 and 20 from the radio to signal merger input 2
  • Connect signal merger output to amplifier subwoofer input
// end of skip

  • Connect pins 5 and 6 in the car to amplifier RL audio output
  • Connect pins 9 and 10 in the car to amplifier RR audio output
  • Connect pins 15 and 16 in the car to amplifier FL audio output
  • Connect pins 19 and 20 in the car to amplifier FR audio output
  • drag a new 2 core cable from the amplifier to the subwoofer, connect it to amplifier SUB output
  • drag a new 2 core cable from the fuse box to the amplifier
  • connect + from the fuse box position 25 (AUDIO AMP) to the amplifier's positive terminal, make sure to add 20A fuse at the fuse box, not only at the amp.
61690

  • connect AMP's negative terminal to the car's body
  • short pins 21 and 24 in the plug that goes into the radio
  • connect pin 22 from the radio to AMP's REMOTE terminal
And done, the subwoofer should work with the factory radio as long as you use a 5 channel amp.
 
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