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Valve Clearance

10K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  Defiant 
#1 ·
I want to do my own Valve Adjustments but I can't seem to find the specs for clearance range. Can one of you guys with the Service Manual take a pic of the specs and post it in here? :dunno:

I know Koala Yummies made a post with the pic in it but flickr took it down.

Thxs guys/girls
 
#2 ·
Hey dude, sorry the pic went down, I'm not sure why that happened.

But here are the Valve Clearance specs:

Intake: 0.15-0.19 mm (0.006-0.007 in)

Exhaust: 0.26-0.30 mm (0.010-0.011 in)

Torque on the nut is: 14 N-m (1.4 kgf-m, 10 lb-ft)

The camshaft sprocket is labeled: UP (for cyl-1), 2, 3, and 4 for the rest (cyl 1 is closest to passenger side, #4 is driver side).

For those with digital copy of Helm it's on Page 6-8 (listed under engine-cylinder head).

I can get a pic if you want to, it's printed over two pages.
 
#7 ·
Honda used to state that the valve clearance check was a 60,000 mile service interval item. They have since prolonged the service intervals on a number of items and Honda backtracked a bit as they no longer really issue set-mileage intervals and instead rely on the 'maintenance minder' (it's really just a ploy to get more people to service their Hondas at the dealerships).

The valves are stated to be adjusted during services A, B, 1, 2, or 3, 'if they are noisy', but it is definitely time to inspect if you see maintenance sub item #4 (which is what it is listed under in the Helm). I believe it should show up at around 100,000-120,000 miles. The first valve clearance adjustment is also typically the most important, and most out of spec they'll be.

It is certainly worth it to do if the valves are noisy, it is unknown when the last time it was done (and the car has over 100k mi) and obviously if they are not in specifications.
 
#9 ·
Yes, if you don't check the valve clearance you will create problems.

It will start with reduced MPG, efficiency loss and progressively get worse from there. You can miss the signs of a valve stretching or bad valve, the gap/clearance continues to grow as the car continues to be driven, as the clearance grows you risk a bent valve from piston to valve contact, increased wear on the valve seats to the point where the valves might not fully close leading to pressure escape and burned valve/valve seats and eventually full valve failure, which since this is an interference motor will mean likely total engine destruction.
 
#12 ·
Yeah its a preference thing. I was taught valve adjustments by a very experienced mechanic and his preference and as a result my preference is to go on the tighter end.

For one who's never done or only done a handful of adjustments they may not be able to tell much of a difference between a tighter spec vs looser which is perfectly fine but as a result one may overdo it. For example if the feeler gauge technically goes in but is hard to initially get in then its likely too tight even if by fitting its technically in spec. The amount of drag/friction on feeler gauges is very much a learned experience/acquired skill.

As long as you're clearly in the specified range you're ok but try to do them so they all have an equal feel with the feeler gauges, consistency among all the valves is more important than the tight vs loose preference.
 
#13 ·
...as a result one may overdo it. For example if the feeler gauge technically goes in but is hard to initially get in then its likely too tight even if by fitting its technically in spec....
You nailed it, for what I was trying to convey as loose.:wink2:
 
#14 ·
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