[NShoreBlue]

So, 800$ later and I get my Z back. I had to replace the rear driver caliper (seized pins) both rear rotors and pads to pass PA state inspection. I also had the rear tires replaced to match the fronts and put the fronts on the rear. One of the old rear tires was losing 10psi a night on these cold nights. I also bought a new brake fluid reservoir cap and diaphragm to have installed after the entire brake system got new fluid put in. The old cap didn't lock on like it should. My mechanic advised me to start treating the rust to slow any issues in the future. This isn't my only car and I do not intend to drive it on salted roads.

 

[AC/DCRZ]

Your mechanic has given you very sound advice bud, rustproofing on these cars is absolutely essential if you plan on keeping it for the long term.

 

[litz]

I wonder if the PA winter salt/brine has already gotten into the nooks and crannies.... Check the front/top part of the rear fender wells first, then remove the bumpers, if you can, and check for rust behind there too. Good luck, and keep 'er solid and running.

 

[Johnski]

Does anyone know of a good rust stopper? If there is such a thing. I live in Cali and I found rust starting in the hatchback area next to the roof. Basically where the roof bends down to create the pocket for the hatchback. I assume the previous owner let water sit there for a long time, unless that is a know rust area for these cars.

 

[Spdbump]

Does anyone know of a good rust stopper? If there is such a thing. I live in Cali and I found rust starting in the hatchback area next to the roof. Basically where the roof bends down to create the pocket for the hatchback. I assume the previous owner let water sit there for a long time, unless that is a know rust area for these cars.

I used Permatex rust converter for my hatch hinges.

 

[Johnski]

I used Permatex rust converter for my hatch hinges.

Nice, I will check that one out.