Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I noticed Sunday morning that I have tire rub coming from the front left tire and that the wheel isn’t centered in the wheel well. My wheel is sitting about a full inch back than it should and rubs when I turn left or break to a full stop. I put bigger tires on the stock rim (I put 215/50r16) but I drove with for at least a month with no issue, I also don’t rub at all on the front ride side) I brought it to mavis on Tuesday hoping they could diagnose the problem and they said everything mechanically seems to be fine to them and they don’t see a problem so they recommended I bring it to a body shop. Today I brought it the Joyce Honda Grecco body shop and they lifted it and could not see any problems, they said they measured (not exactly sure what) and said it has nothing to do with frame/body of the car but they gave me three parts to switch and it should fix the problem, the parts were the knuckle, the lower arm control and the shock assembly. I asked “what if I replace all three said parts and it doesn’t fix the problem?” Which he replied with “it should, I can’t see it not” I later had a friend also look at it and tell me that it could be that it just needs a front alignment, I thought mavis or the body shop would have said that but he assured me the only way to know if I need the alignment would be to put it on the machine and check and that they probably didn’t do that at either shops. So I’m posting here to see if anyone has similar issues with their Crz, or maybe just more knowledge than these guys do cause if I replace all three of those parts with labor I’m looking at $1,500- $1,800 from what I got quoted at Grecco ( I attached both front tires for comparison)
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,620 Posts
A friend told me about the same problem last year while we were at the Dragon. He said (just now,) that he never figured it out, but has been too busy at work all year to worry/think about it, as car has been in storage mostly since then.

One thing to check, is that the subframe is sitting true, but I figured that's what the guys who looked it over did first. [Three bolts on each side, with an "alignment" hole near them that goes through the subframe and the body/frame that it mounts to. You should be able to put a long philips head screwdriver or chop-stick up through both holes, and it should stick out of the frame perpendicularly.]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I’ll make sure to check but I will figure it out one way or another, I decided to do an alignment tomorrow and see if that does anything, if not I’m just gonna piece by piece replace what I need to then get another alignment after, I’ll be sure to let you know what fixes the problem maybe it’ll be the same problem for your friend
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,294 Posts
The picture is impossible to read on my screen - what parts did they say to replace? can't see it being anything besides the Lower control arm, strut, and maybe tie rod...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,294 Posts
Lower control arm, knuckle and shock absorber assembly
Damn. Must have hit something real hard. Probably have a dented rim too.

CVT or 6speed? the only difference is the shock absorber assembly.

If 6sp, This gets you all your parts and a spare part of your choosing for under 400. If you don't care about ride quality and just want something undamaged to put in, you can have my old strut for the cost of shipping. It's got 95k miles on it, and may or may not be leaking. rode pretty harsh when I took it out, but I'd use it again in place of a busted one. That would just leave you needing the spindle/control arm

https://www.redlineautoparts.com/honda-cr-z/2011-2012-honda-crz-front-lower-control-arms-oem-pair-cz006

https://www.redlineautoparts.com/honda-cr-z/2011-2012-honda-crz-front-driver-spindle-front-lower-control-arm-oem-cz003/

https://www.redlineautoparts.com/honda-cr-z/2011-honda-cr-z-crz-factory-driver-front-spindle-hub-shock-assembly-cz001
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I just got it checked again, went in for an alignment hoping for the best and only came out worse, so as far as the front wheel, he says lower control arm or knuckle since caster is messed up and not toe-in or camber so he thinks shock absorber assembly should be fine, but now he noticed that my rear tires have a negative camber and told me that they can’t be adjusted so to fix them I have two options, one being try to get them bent back in to place or two replace the rear suspension beam, the cost to have my car back to normal is starting to add up and I’m debating if it’s even worth the price of the whole car itself
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,294 Posts
Honestly, I'd get that LCA and spindle hub assembly used from redline.

The rear wheels always have a little bit of negative camber. so long as you don't have a huge amount (keep it under 3 deg), it's not a real problem. it might be indicative of some abuse in the past, but I would ignore the rear for now. it's just along for the ride anyway
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I would agree but the mechanic was saying he can’t even do a front alignment on it if the back doesn’t get fixed because to align the front he has to base it off the back, also one thing I noticed personally is that the tires wear really fast now, I’d have to replace back tires every 4-5 months due to the negative camber, I have all the numbers of my alignment for front and back which I’ll post with this but pictures always tend to come out blurry on this website, overall I’d love to replace control arm and spindle and see what happens then as I save more money buy the rear axle, but everyone I seem to talk to gives me the same answer of doing everything all at once which makes me nauseous just thinking about how much money it’s gonna cost that I don’t have, quick question though, I found a used 2012 rear crz axle for $200 opposed to brand new for about $850, do you think it’s worth it to go brand new or should I get the used one? I’m afraid the used will either be bent just like mine or bend quicker than it should, all new parts I order off of hondapartsnow.com and seem to be the cheapest possible oem parts I can find
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,294 Posts
take it to a different shop. There's no reason they shouldn't be able to align the front.

Replace the damaged parts first, save your money for the rear later if you decide you need it.

Regarding the rear, I'd go with the used 2012. If you're going to shell out for new, get a 2016. Slightly wider track will make it a little more stable in the corners.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,566 Posts
I am not the most knowledgeable on the rear setup in our cars but can't the rear be adjusted with Camber bolts? Something does not sound right about all of this I would try a different dedicated suspension shop who knows Honda CR-Zs. If all shops say certain parts are damaged then i would look for replacements for them first. This technician may not know how to do a proper front end alignment or has a strange alignment rack and or is not very skilled on what he has.


I agree with other posters here find another alignment shop.



I would agree but the mechanic was saying he can’t even do a front alignment on it if the back doesn’t get fixed because to align the front he has to base it off the back, also one thing I noticed personally is that the tires wear really fast now, I’d have to replace back tires every 4-5 months due to the negative camber, I have all the numbers of my alignment for front and back which I’ll post with this but pictures always tend to come out blurry on this website, overall I’d love to replace control arm and spindle and see what happens then as I save more money buy the rear axle, but everyone I seem to talk to gives me the same answer of doing everything all at once which makes me nauseous just thinking about how much money it’s gonna cost that I don’t have, quick question though, I found a used 2012 rear crz axle for $200 opposed to brand new for about $850, do you think it’s worth it to go brand new or should I get the used one? I’m afraid the used will either be bent just like mine or bend quicker than it should, all new parts I order off of hondapartsnow.com and seem to be the cheapest possible oem parts I can find
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
It’s just crazy how 3 different places can’t tell me what’s the issue, I’m going to wait on the rear suspension and go to every single mechanic I can find until one can tell me what’s bent in my front wheel well, I’m no where near a mechanic in knowledge of cars, but I bet if I lifted it and started to measure the length and angle of a few parts connecting to the wheel, I’d be able to see what’s bent. Would going to Honda be pointless? I feel like they should be able to tell me what’s wrong, at this point I’m not looking for a place that can fix it just a place to diagnose this problem which seems to be impossible around here
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I thought the same thing but apparently Honda’s don’t have control arms in the back? It’s just one solid suspension and the tires sit one way, on his computer it says in the system that “the manufacturer does not specify rear camber and toe adjustments” which was his was of saying it can’t be adjusted. I also got a rear wheel alignment from mavis about a month ago when I put on my new tires cause I noticed the negative camber in the back, when the tires were put on it almost looked fixed (probably because they weren’t worn down anymore) and thought everything was good, but firestone today told me that there’s nothing in the back to adjust whatsoever, he even had me come into the garage and look for myself, told me that when mavis took my money they practically robbed me.
Also all shops said the same thing, each one said the front lower control arm is possibly bent and/or something else, as far as other parts each shop had their extra few that they named (tire rod, spindle, shock absorber assembly, knuckle) but all said lower control arm was the main culprit to suspect, some even said if one part is bent it pretty much guarantees another part is bent. Another problem I have is when I ask a shop “what about this part could it be messed up? The last shop said it could be a possible issue?” then they gave me a reason as to why it can’t be, all make sense as far as I know, but it just shows either someone’s lying or doesn’t know what they’re talking about.
You would figure there’d be at least one shop who can give me a straight answer but it seems like the mechanics in my area don’t know anything about CR-Zs suspension, or any suspension for that matter
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,566 Posts
Replace just the control arm since that is the most quoted bad part. Ignore all the different parts they all throw on your bill.

As for the rear it seemed odd not adjustable and to have that much camber but if no specifications then it is probably true. A body shop may be able to pull it to make it better but replacement of the beam may cost less in the end.

The shop that said they can’t align front without aligning the unadjustable rear should be avoided. Look for a shop with Hunter alignment equipment and an older certified technician. Ask to see his or her alignment certifications.

You may want to research online or Contact Hunter about what equipment and or certifications are needed to align just the front end of a CR-Z. Then find a shop that has whatever Hunter recommends with a matching skilled technician with the certification on that equipment. ( Yes, I know there are other companies that make alignment equipment but from my experience the Hunter equipped shops have been able to do a better job on cars I had with issues.)


Ultimately you want it as good as it can be. As for high tire wear due to rear situation can you cross rotate or are you staggered? How far different from stock did you go on the tires?( I know you probably said but I don't remember).


Stop going to different shops and spending money on estimates etc. Just get the lower control arm replaced pick the shop that had the least number of other parts listed and who seemed like they cared to fix the problem, has the above mentioned hunter equipment and certifications, and not empty your wallet. Get them to refund the alignment portion if they claim they can't align it after replacing the control arm.

It is time to be practical and fix what can be fixed and ignore everything else. When you have some spare money replace the rear beam with a used one from a CR-Z that had a front end accident. I don't agree with frankensteining with a beam from the last year for a wider track. But your car your money your choice.



I thought the same thing but apparently Honda’s don’t have control arms in the back? It’s just one solid suspension and the tires sit one way, on his computer it says in the system that “the manufacturer does not specify rear camber and toe adjustments” which was his was of saying it can’t be adjusted. I also got a rear wheel alignment from mavis about a month ago when I put on my new tires cause I noticed the negative camber in the back, when the tires were put on it almost looked fixed (probably because they weren’t worn down anymore) and thought everything was good, but firestone today told me that there’s nothing in the back to adjust whatsoever, he even had me come into the garage and look for myself, told me that when mavis took my money they practically robbed me.
Also all shops said the same thing, each one said the front lower control arm is possibly bent and/or something else, as far as other parts each shop had their extra few that they named (tire rod, spindle, shock absorber assembly, knuckle) but all said lower control arm was the main culprit to suspect, some even said if one part is bent it pretty much guarantees another part is bent. Another problem I have is when I ask a shop “what about this part could it be messed up? The last shop said it could be a possible issue?” then they gave me a reason as to why it can’t be, all make sense as far as I know, but it just shows either someone’s lying or doesn’t know what they’re talking about.
You would figure there’d be at least one shop who can give me a straight answer but it seems like the mechanics in my area don’t know anything about CR-Zs suspension, or any suspension for that matter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,294 Posts
Also all shops said the same thing, each one said the front lower control arm is possibly bent and/or something else, as far as other parts each shop had their extra few that they named (tire rod, spindle, shock absorber assembly, knuckle) but all said lower control arm was the main culprit to suspect, some even said if one part is bent it pretty much guarantees another part is bent.
As far as going to a Honda dealer, it would not be pointless, but it would be expensive. Where are you located? Maybe someone local to you can recommend a shop or lend a hand.

your next step before taking it to another shop should be to replace the lower control arm, like spdbump said. Given the parts that are connected to the front suspension, you're probably also looking at a bent strut (shock assembly), and possibly the front sway bar or end link. Your Tie (not tire) rod connects to the knuckle, and should articulate enough to avoid damage if the suspension gets out of whack like this. The spindle and knuckle are the same part, and it's a large cast iron piece, so its not unheard of to bend, but also less likely than other parts.

You should be ready to replace other parts that are damaged, and if the strut is bad, replace the passenger strut as well. You should always replace shocks/struts in pairs.
Replace just the control arm since that is the most quoted bad part. Ignore all the different parts they all throw on your bill.

As for the rear it seemed odd not adjustable and to have that much camber but if no specifications then it is probably true. A body shop may be able to pull it to make it better but replacement of the beam may cost less in the end.

The shop that said they can’t align front without aligning the unadjustable rear should be avoided. Look for a shop with Hunter alignment equipment and an older certified technician. Ask to see his or her alignment certifications.

It is time to be practical and fix what can be fixed and ignore everything else. When you have some spare money replace the rear beam with a used one from a CR-Z that had a front end accident. I don't agree with frankensteining with a beam from the last year for a wider track. But your car your money your choice.
To clarify if there's any remaining uncertainty: The rear is not adjustable. There's no camber bolts or control arms... you get what you get, and you'r SOL if it gets tweaked.

As far as "frankensteining" a 2016 rear axle, it's a direct replacement, just with a wider track, and that was only the advice if he felt like shelling out for new. best use of time/money is to get the used 11-15 axle. Definitely falls into the "modification" category, not the "repair" category though.

Another thing to think about: how long ago did you notice this? the front being tweaked could be causing your rear tires to wear unevenly. front end misalignment can cause "crab-walking" which will destroy rear tires superfast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
So I wanted to just update my status on my car just Incase anyone goes through the same problem hopefully this can help. I’ve brought the car to the 5th mechanic, a very trusted mechanic and well known but does charge a little more then average but at least I know he will not BS me and will find out the exact problem with it. He gave me good news and bad news, good news is he is certain nothing is wrong with frame of the car or any front suspension components, he says a wheel alignment should fix the problem, bad news is to perform front wheel alignment they base it off back tires, and my rear suspension is indeed bent so it must be replaced. I’m replacing it with a brand new 2012 rear beam axle, didn’t want to risk buying used because I have a feeling that these axles bend easier than most would think and I’d rather go with a brand new one and not have to worry about it. My camber is off negatively in the back as you could see from one of the previous posts which it shouldn’t be since nothing is adjustable. He also recommended that I put the recommended tire size back on my car so I’m doing that as well, he said it will be better to align with the recommended tire size and will reduce risk of potentially un-aligning the front again and although many people have told me that it shouldn’t matter, I’m going with the mechanic’s recommendation because I do not want to have to deal with more problems in the future. I wanted to see if we could replace with the 2016 because the wider rear axle does seem tempting but it’s also about $200-$300 more than the 2012 so unfortunately I don’t have the money to splurge on the wider axle.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top