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I'd also like to point out that I've learned that there are different numbers when comparing wheel horsepower, crank horsepower, and brake horsepower. I was very confused when I saw the dyno chart thinking the sprintex did not really make any extra power compared to the listed stock CR-Z "122 HP" at 6k, but it in fact was. The dyno read WHP instead of just plain HP or CHP. So having it at 135-140 WHP was a realistic number as the tuner was trying to explain to me.

So, there are online calculator conversions for WHP to HP, apparently front wheel drivetrain 135WHP with the sprintex is equal to 150 engine HP. I do feel kind of dumb for not knowing these differences.

I'm guessing that if I were to have dynoed the CR-Z in stock form, it would have shown up with a max WHP at 110ish? I guess that's also taking the hybrid battery into account, it would be lower if it was not.
Yeah. With most auto trans setups, youll see about a 30% powertrain loss from the transmission having to convert engine power to wheel power. Manual transisions see less power loss because they have no torque converter.
 
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'm guessing that if I were to have dynoed the CR-Z in stock form, it would have shown up with a max WHP at 110ish? I guess that's also taking the hybrid battery into account, it would be lower if it was not.
yes, stock baseline is right around 110 at the wheels. probably closer to 120 on the 13-16 cars with the Li-Ion pack.

Dyno chart is at the 105 mark, this is a 6mt car.
Yeah. With most auto trans setups, youll see about a 30% powertrain loss from the transmission having to convert engine power to wheel power. Manual transisions see less power loss because they have no torque converter.
The CVT has no torque converter. Only wet clutches, so the driveline loss is going to be closer to a 6mt car.
 

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Hard to believe it but I've put right about 20k miles on the SC. Had the car for a little over a year and so far no issues. I've done one fluid change since buying the car and have not had to top off the SC oil. I check periodically to make sure there's still plenty of oil in the SC and have yet to see much of any consumption. So far this car has treated me right.
 
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I've got another 3 months for that carbon fiber hood to be delivered, my Sprintex has been getting some good heat soak from the 100+ degree Texas weather this summer, it really is terrible timing I installed the SC. I also see that your Sprintex is coated with some type of black paint? I guess it helps with heat as well.
 

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I've got another 3 months for that carbon fiber hood to be delivered, my Sprintex has been getting some good heat soak from the 100+ degree Texas weather this summer, it really is terrible timing I installed the SC. I also see that your Sprintex is coated with some type of black paint? I guess it helps with heat as well.
I doubt the black paint is doing the SC any favors. If anything its absorbing more heat which should cause the SC to heatsoak easier. However, the vent kit and the vented CF hood are reducing the SC temps enough to keep everything running cool.
 

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Welp I got the P2097 code, and now appears to be persistent every other drive. I am using the piggyback. I used all new gaskets for every part that seals on the SC and manifold, torqued to spec. 93 octane fuel, piggyback is being kept cool out of the way and seems fine (wiring is soldered and sheathed correctly). My AFR from my wideband sensor is Stoich for anything under 2300rpm, then its between 11.5 to 13.5 when I'm on it at various points... 12.5-ish cruising at 60. I'm guessing this is my indicator to start messing with the piggyback's tune more closely as some of the historical posts in this thread have indicated?
 

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Welp I got the P2097 code, and now appears to be persistent every other drive. I am using the piggyback. I used all new gaskets for every part that seals on the SC and manifold, torqued to spec. 93 octane fuel, piggyback is being kept cool out of the way and seems fine (wiring is soldered and sheathed correctly). My AFR from my wideband sensor is Stoich for anything under 2300rpm, then its between 11.5 to 13.5 when I'm on it at various points... 12.5-ish cruising at 60. I'm guessing this is my indicator to start messing with the piggyback's tune more closely as some of the historical posts in this thread have indicated?
The easiest fix is get some 270cc Accord V6 injectors and tune with Hondata or Ktuner depending on your year model. I've never had a check engine code on my 16 tuned on Ktuner. That piggyback system has been known to be very problematic for many people.
 

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Yep 96firephoenix also mentioned that intially. It may be time to just go for that. I do already have ktuner and the injectors.
Id make a trip out to Innovative Motorworks and they can get you squared away on the tune. @litz had his CVT tuned there on Ktuner and Derrik is very knowledgeable with Ktuner. I might hit them up when I do my fit cam and smaller pulley to get a retune.
 
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Has anyone here with a Sprintex had noise issues with the auto tensioner randomly hitting the internal stopping plate when accelerating from a stop at low rpms? It happens briefly and goes away once accelerating to higher rpms from 1000rpm. I asked the tuner about it, and he told me he believed it was because the belt is a little loose causing a lot of movement which is causing the auto tensioner to start hitting its limit at the low rpm range.

I have not tried to use the Gates green industrial belt yet. I'm just using the belt that the Sprintex kit provided, but I did add some spacers on the arm 3/4".
 

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Has anyone here with a Sprintex had noise issues with the auto tensioner randomly hitting the internal stopping plate when accelerating from a stop at low rpms? It happens briefly and goes away once accelerating to higher rpms from 1000rpm. I asked the tuner about it, and he told me he believed it was because the belt is a little loose causing a lot of movement which is causing the auto tensioner to start hitting its limit at the low rpm range.

I have not tried to use the Gates green industrial belt yet. I'm just using the belt that the Sprintex kit provided, but I did add some spacers on the arm 3/4".
I would say you might have a bad tensioner if that is the case. I put a spacer on my idler bracket and ran the stock Sprintex size belt and don't have any odd noises at low RPM. Last time I ran the green belt it stretched in less then 6 months and required replacement. I replaced my auto tensioner at the same time. So far everything seems fine with the belt and the tensioner is sitting right at the middle mark at low RPM idle. The tensioner is an easy part to change out and I did it with the scissor jack in the trunk and some basic hand tools.
 

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Has anyone here with a Sprintex had noise issues with the auto tensioner randomly hitting the internal stopping plate when accelerating from a stop at low rpms? It happens briefly and goes away once accelerating to higher rpms from 1000rpm. I asked the tuner about it, and he told me he believed it was because the belt is a little loose causing a lot of movement which is causing the auto tensioner to start hitting its limit at the low rpm range.

I have not tried to use the Gates green industrial belt yet. I'm just using the belt that the Sprintex kit provided, but I did add some spacers on the arm 3/4".
I forget the exact part number on the belt I'm running right now but it's a Bando Rib-Ace belt. Ill find it when I get home.
 

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I would say you might have a bad tensioner if that is the case. I put a spacer on my idler bracket and ran the stock Sprintex size belt and don't have any odd noises at low RPM. Last time I ran the green belt it stretched in less then 6 months and required replacement. I replaced my auto tensioner at the same time. So far everything seems fine with the belt and the tensioner is sitting right at the middle mark at low RPM idle. The tensioner is an easy part to change out and I did it with the scissor jack in the trunk and some basic hand tools.
Well, there was no tapping noise coming for the auto tensioner at low rpm before installing the Sprintex and the provided serpentine belt, and I am very close to the middle line currently. I did notice that when I previously had only a bottom washer as a spacer which set it perfectly in the middle line, the noise was almost gone. I also know that having it on eco mode will decrease the tapping noise, but if I am in sport mode, the noise will increase from the stop and go low rpm.

I'll try the belt replacement first, maybe mess with the spacers a bit, and also eventually try a replacement auto tensioner.
 

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Well, there was no tapping noise coming for the auto tensioner at low rpm before installing the Sprintex and the provided serpentine belt, and I am very close to the middle line currently. I did notice that when I previously had only a bottom washer as a spacer which set it perfectly in the middle line, the noise was almost gone. I also know that having it on eco mode will decrease the tapping noise, but if I am in sport mode, the noise will increase from the stop and go low rpm.

I'll try the belt replacement first, maybe mess with the spacers a bit, and also eventually try a replacement auto tensioner.
See if you can have a shop make a single spacer instead of using washers. I got a piece of aluminum or steel from Home Depot and cut it to fit.
 

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See if you can have a shop make a single spacer instead of using washers. I got a piece of aluminum or steel from Home Depot and cut it to fit.
I currently have two aluminium spacers on the arm which both combined make 3/4", I had previously just the washer and was describing the difference I noticed.
 

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3/4" ?!?!?! jeeeez that's a lot of spacer. I had like 3/16" of spacing on my sprintex.
I think I made the same size spacer as @litz , even so, the gap between where the belt could touch looks to be an inch or so.
 

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I think I made the same size spacer as @litz , even so, the gap between where the belt could touch looks to be an inch or so.
Mine was closer to 1/4"; no more than 3/8". That belt must have had some major stretch to it. :) Just make sure to have the "resting" auto tensioner hitting in the middle of the three tic marks. :)
 

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I second Litz. I previously had a green belt that would get periodic squeak. Then one day 5 months later boom! The squeak was beyond terrible. New Sprintex factory size belt and auto tensioner fixed the squeak. My squeak was soooo loud I might as well have gotten a ticket for excessive belt squeak :ROFLMAO:
 

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I second Litz. I previously had a green belt that would get periodic squeak. Then one day 5 months later boom! The squeak was beyond terrible. New Sprintex factory size belt and auto tensioner fixed the squeak. My squeak was soooo loud I might as well have gotten a ticket for excessive belt squeak :ROFLMAO:
Speaking of the squeak noise people here have described, I actually heard it when I tried to add a little bit more spacer (using 2 small washers) in between the two aluminum pieces. I took them out as soon as I started to hear what sounded like bird noises, then the noise went away. But the auto tensioner noise tapping on the stopping plate is an entirely different noise.

Let me know what the Bando part number is for the belt you currently have.
 
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