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I honestly don’t remember what I said that the dealership said 😆 I am guessing that the updates available were already on my car. But I do recall that my ECU’s calibration ID did not match the crz ECU calibration ID that Hondata was using. I don’t know/remember if the fact that my ECU was under a Hondata tune is what caused them to not be able to update.

If for some reason even after flashing to stock their HDS still can’t update, you may need to get a whole different ECU. Can find used ones for a couple hundred. Put it in your car, have HDS reprogram the car to it and make all updates. Then after all that put your sprintex
Tune back on.
I really hope that won't be necessary, as my CR-Z is my only vehicle. This was supposed to be an easy Sprintex install then with a Hondata flash with no issue, boy was I wrong. Tomorrow is the day I'll find out if my nightmare continues 😅.
 

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Got the CR-Z back with the update on the module software, don't know what exactly they did because I was not told details, but it cleared the TCM issue I had. I flashed the car with the Sprintex tune with Hondata and then I had a check engine light but no dash error which was weird. I saw no error codes from flashpro manager after datalogging, so I plugged in my OBD2 reader to clear the codes. The codes went away, and I started driving on the highway with no issue besides engine knock at very low stop and go revs from the beginning. But after driving it around more, I feel like the knocking went away, maybe because the car needs to relearn driving habits after all these software updates.

I forgot to mention that the belt tension level is on the upper level, I don't know if this is bad since I read you want it to settle in the middle line, but please let me know if it needs some adjustment. I also noticed some small amount of oil leaking from the vent plug base, or maybe it is from the dipstick, not sure. I'll be putting in an order for a vented hood since the Texas heat is getting very hot lately. I'll keep you guys updated on any other issues I may come across after installing the Sprintex.

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Light Automotive design
Hood Automotive tire Light Blue Motor vehicle
Tire Wheel Leg Automotive tire Synthetic rubber
 

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did you go back and fill in that coupler with stainless steel wool? @tikeybun and I had some oil ejection before going back and filling that little bit with the stainless steel stuff.
Ah I forgot about that, I'll have to add that once I get some. But as for the belt tension level where mine is, will it be a problem over time, do I need a slightly thinner spacer for the bracket?
 

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Ah I forgot about that, I'll have to add that once I get some. But as for the belt tension level where mine is, will it be a problem over time, do I need a slightly thinner spacer for the bracket?
Also, did you install 2 of the breathers on that Y? josh and I only did one breather, and put the fill plug on the short leg of the Y

I think mine was usually on the middle tick. What matters more is the gap from the tensioner to the idler. Anything less than 1/4inch will bind under full throttle. Also, the belt will stretch over time, so keep that in mind as well.
 

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How's the clearance on the A/C hose/line. You can get some large zip ties and anchor/cinch it down/over to the hard lines that run along the body in front of the motor mount.
 

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How's the clearance on the A/C hose/line. You can get some large zip ties and anchor/cinch it down/over to the hard lines that run along the body in front of the motor mount.
Its good, there is enough clearance. But I do believe I'll have to get @tikeybun provided tune a revision, I don't know what engine knock actually sounds like, but I believe I hear it when I'm at a complete stop and then try to accelerate slowly but goes away once I pick up enough speed. This happens randomly and not all the time, but it still does not sound too good, or maybe it has to do with the belt tension? Anyway, I'm trying to contact a tuner about scheduling a dyno tune appointment.
 

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What was the appropriate gap size for the Sprintex recommended spark plugs? I forgot this detail and ended up just using stock gap size when I added the new plugs and injectors.
 

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they should be pre-gapped... so far as I know the stock gap is appropriate.
Besides the stock 0.050" gap, it should be in the range of 0.034"-0.038" gap for supercharged applications, correct? I'm going to make an adjustment based on past comments, @MartinT had said his was set at 0.034" when his was tuned.
 

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Besides the stock 0.050" gap, it should be in the range of 0.034"-0.038" gap for supercharged applications, correct? I'm going to make an adjustment based on past comments, @MartinT had said his was set at 0.034" when his was tuned.
just pulled up the sprintex manual "NGK IZFR6K13 Spark plugs (gap set at factory)" and that gap is 1.3mm which comes out to a little over 0.051
 

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did you go back and fill in that coupler with stainless steel wool? @tikeybun and I had some oil ejection before going back and filling that little bit with the stainless steel stuff.
I didnt even have to use steel wool. I just tightened the fittings better. Some goomba forgot to tighten then down after the long trip home. I havent had any more leaking since.
 
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Besides the stock 0.050" gap, it should be in the range of 0.034"-0.038" gap for supercharged applications, correct? I'm going to make an adjustment based on past comments, @MartinT had said his was set at 0.034" when his was tuned.
Yes, I had my gap at 0.038" to 0.040", as suggested by my tuner guy.
 

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Shows what I know
At least you knew about the vent plug, and I still don't know where you sourced out cheaper alternatives for the parts that would eventually need replacing.
 

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I thought I was being proactive on preventing belt squeaking by replacing my belt but.... My belt squeak has gotten so bad that even after a few minutes of driving it doesnt go away. Has anyone else had to replace their auto tensioner before. Ive takin it off the CRZ before when removing and replacing the Sprintex idler pulley but ive never experienced a failed tensioner before. part of me is inclined to go offbrand but ive seen some of the offbrand ones dont have the marks on them to let you know how tight the belt is on the car.
 

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I thought I was being proactive on preventing belt squeaking by replacing my belt but.... My belt squeak has gotten so bad that even after a few minutes of driving it doesnt go away. Has anyone else had to replace their auto tensioner before. Ive takin it off the CRZ before when removing and replacing the Sprintex idler pulley but ive never experienced a failed tensioner before. part of me is inclined to go offbrand but ive seen some of the offbrand ones dont have the marks on them to let you know how tight the belt is on the car.
I read somewhere that @HondaHolly had changed both the auto tensioner which was worn out and a new green belt which fixed the issue, but for how long I'm not sure.

I'm currently going to add more of a spacer to get the tension line in the middle. I don't have any issues yet with the new 4pk 1680 that came with the kit, but I do have the green belt on standby.
 

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My belt was definitely stretched quite a bit. Changed out my gates green belt for a bando ace rib and it's much tighter and should be squeak free.
 
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