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My biggest advice for the longevity of your sprintex is to KEEP IT COOL. Get a ventilated hood, or rig up some sort of chiller setup for it.
The things I should have known before going into this, but there goes another $1500 I'll have to spend for a vented hood plus Koyorad aluminum radiator... 🤦‍♂️

I just hope I purchased the correct transmission fluid cooler, I purchased this one here Amazon.com: Mishimoto Universal Transmission Fluid Cooler, 12" x 7.5" x 0.75" : Automotive .

But should I have purchased the largest one to mount on the Koyorad? I went with the smallest and was not sure what I needed.
 

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The things I should have known before going into this, but there goes another $1500 I'll have to spend for a vented hood plus Koyorad aluminum radiator... 🤦‍♂️

I just hope I purchased the correct transmission fluid cooler, I purchased this one here Amazon.com: Mishimoto Universal Transmission Fluid Cooler, 12" x 7.5" x 0.75" : Automotive .

But should I have purchased the largest one to mount on the Koyorad? I went with the smallest and was not sure what I needed.
the gift that keeps on giving.

If you get that koyorad for AT cars, it would be a good bet. Best route would be trans->external heat exchanger->internal exchanger in the radiator->filter->trans. this will dump all of the heat out of the trans, and then condition it back to operating temp. keeps engine and trans temps more stable if you're really pushing it.

I would put the mishimoto heat exchanger on a dedicated mount rather than use the weird zip-tie things, just based on previous experience with those stupid things. They will eventually wear out
 

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Just so Y'all know.. Ive been running @96firephoenix vent kit for a few weeks and have just now noticed some SC oil seepage around the filter area of the vent. @96firephoenix recommended putting some steel wool in to help reduce the oil seepage from the vent. Ive been keeping a close eye on my SC oil levels and haven't seen a drastic drop in the level. SC sounds fine and I'm not noticing and abnormal bearing noise. For those that do the vent mod you might want to put some steel wool in the vent at the same time.
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Just so Y'all know.. Ive been running @96firephoenix vent kit for a few weeks and have just now noticed some SC oil seepage around the filter area of the vent. @96firephoenix recommended putting some steel wool in to help reduce the oil seepage from the vent. Ive been keeping a close eye on my SC oil levels and haven't seen a drastic drop in the level. SC sounds fine and I'm not noticing and abnormal bearing noise. For those that do the vent mod you might want to put some steel wool in the vent at the same time.
Really important to note: STAINLESS STEEL not regular steel wool. regular steel wool will rust and turn to mush.

Most catch-can baffles are just this stuff:

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the gift that keeps on giving.

If you get that koyorad for AT cars, it would be a good bet. Best route would be trans->external heat exchanger->internal exchanger in the radiator->filter->trans. this will dump all of the heat out of the trans, and then condition it back to operating temp. keeps engine and trans temps more stable if you're really pushing it.

I would put the mishimoto heat exchanger on a dedicated mount rather than use the weird zip-tie things, just based on previous experience with those stupid things. They will eventually wear out
Or I could save some money and just buy a generic aluminum radiator with the cooler transmission inlet/outlet port holes so that I don't have to use the external cooler. Amazon.com: DNA Motoring RA-HCRZ-2 2-Row Full Aluminum Radiator : Automotive

EDIT: Just going to buy the aluminum radiator on Amazon with the inlet/outlet ports to save a few hundred dollars, it should work just fine. But I'll still need to purchase a vented hood. I was looking at the C-West hood C-West FRP Hood Honda CR-Z 11-12 | CZF101A-ABFR (vividracing.com) , but I don't know if the Sprintex will clear it. Maybe someone here has tried that vented hood before?
 

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I actually was hoping someone would point that out.
Make sure you get it attached real tight. I was a goomba and didn't check my vent kit and found it loose which was the cause of an oil leak from the SC.
 

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Ah, so it was user error and not the @96firephoenix oil vent ideas fault. I'll be sure to also get the STAINLESS steel wool anyway just in case.
Yep. After I tightened up the vent kit no more oil leak. I put an extra 10ml of oil in the SC and 2 weeks later it's still on the full mark.
 

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so, I've finally gotten around to tearing into mine to find the source of the noises. Both bearings in the drive snout where done for.

fortunately I caught it before any real damage was dealt. Used the drill to spin the cassette on the bench...no noise from the parts that count. $140 later for all the bearings and seals that were bad, and I'll have the blower back up and running
 

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so, I've finally gotten around to tearing into mine to find the source of the noises. Both bearings in the drive snout where done for.

fortunately I caught it before any real damage was dealt. Used the drill to spin the cassette on the bench...no noise from the parts that count. $140 later for all the bearings and seals that were bad, and I'll have the blower back up and running
Should I be prepared and purchase the JB performance rebuild kit in advance, or are these rebuild parts obtainable elsewhere?
 

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Should I be prepared and purchase the JB performance rebuild kit in advance, or are these rebuild parts obtainable elsewhere?
His rebuild kit is more expensive than what @96firephoenix spent on parts to rebuild his SC. I'm sure he will chime in soon with a list of parts and prices for everything he bought.
 

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Should I be prepared and purchase the JB performance rebuild kit in advance, or are these rebuild parts obtainable elsewhere?
depends on how much you value your time and how much you want to stand on principle. I'm very certain that they neglectfully killed @litz 's unit and quite frankly refuse to support them. It took me about 30-45 minutes to track down the right parts, and the price difference against JBP was negligible against their drive snout rebuild components (which are only available as part of the complete rebuild kit).

If you don't have the skillset to find parts on your own, then feel free to go with the JBP kit - it is a comprehensive one-stop-shop for all the components you need. I ordered from 4 different places to get all the components I need, and only the components I need.

@HiepSTA are you the same Hiep on facebook that has a unit currently at JBP because it re-failed after like 40 miles?
 

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The gift that keeps on giving.
Hijacking the thread a little, but are the Sprintexes that bad?

A guy here in the UK ran one and I didn't hear of issues. I love the sound it gave off being the different type of SC from the HKS unit etc (not sure of the technicalities yet as I'm a n00b engine wise).

I get this sense that the HKS stuff is better engineered but my reasoning is I've seen the logo a million times across Gran Turismo games and I like that they are developed in Japan - so it's basically based on nothing haha!

Anyway, back to the thread...
 

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Hijacking the thread a little, but are the Sprintexes that bad?

A guy here in the UK ran one and I didn't hear of issues. I love the sound it gave off being the different type of SC from the HKS unit etc (not sure of the technicalities yet as I'm a n00b engine wise).

I get this sense that the HKS stuff is better engineered but my reasoning is I've seen the logo a million times across Gran Turismo games and I like that they are developed in Japan - so it's basically based on nothing haha!

Anyway, back to the thread...
I mean... it's the sprintex thread, its still on topic. My take on the sprintex is that they are perfectly reliable units if you treat them right. The design is flawed in that they made it too easy to treat them wrong. to treat it right, you have to keep it cool via airflow over the unit, vent the gearcase to atmosphere, and not drive it if you notice any unusual noises.
 

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The design is flawed in that they made it too easy to treat them wrong. to treat it right, you have to keep it cool via airflow over the unit, vent the gearcase to atmosphere, and not drive it if you notice any unusual noises.
Any recommendations for vented hoods? I've seen what some others have used, but my main concern is making sure the hood has a rain guard. So far, I like the Seibon and C-West hoods.
 

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@tikeybun 's center vent hood has amazing heat extraction, and he daily drives his car in all weather. most of the stuff under the hood is rated to get exposed to the weather, just not pressure washed. They do have rain gutters for some of the vented hoods, but that does diminish the venting a little.
 

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depends on how much you value your time and how much you want to stand on principle. I'm very certain that they neglectfully killed @litz 's unit and quite frankly refuse to support them. It took me about 30-45 minutes to track down the right parts, and the price difference against JBP was negligible against their drive snout rebuild components (which are only available as part of the complete rebuild kit).

If you don't have the skillset to find parts on your own, then feel free to go with the JBP kit - it is a comprehensive one-stop-shop for all the components you need. I ordered from 4 different places to get all the components I need, and only the components I need.

@HiepSTA are you the same Hiep on facebook that has a unit currently at JBP because it re-failed after like 40 miles?
Hiep has the "good" parts of my old Sprintex, but JBP left the oil consumption kit in the same "bad" location for his rebuild (with the same results.) I'm glad to see you made a breather for the oil check location--much better than the experimental placement JBP did on mine. I do miss that Sprintex whine, though. :)
 
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