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Yeah, 30 Amps over 22 AWG is super-duper bad mojo. 22 AWG is good for 5 amps, maybe.

Just as a point of reference, National Electric Code calls for 10 AWG for wiring with 60C insulation. I don't know the insulation rating of wiring in the car, but it's worth making sure that you size your wires correctly. Otherwise, do what bheinen74 suggests.
 

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Yes, I accidentally discovered that fuse 1 (Back UP) not working is a bad thing. It blew when I plugged a GPS device I was testing into the OBD-II port (it was damaged and in essence shorted anything it plugged into- so I learned the hard way). Losing that fuse killed the IMA, traction control and emissions system, plus the entertainment system, remote locks and a handful of other things stopped working. Thankfully, replacing the fuse fixed the IMA right away and everything else after a few short trips.
Hi I blew the same fuse . . Which one is it as I cant seemed to find any blown fuses. Mines a UK version with right hand drive. Cant find that dang fuse . .
 

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Here is a picture of the USA-Spec interior fuse panel (the one by the driver's left knee). You can see that some of mini-fuse spots are available. Below, I explain whether or not you'll get 12v out of it if you tap into the open spots.


So I went out to look at my fuse box. I doesnt have "H8" on it, it says "J9" instead. Also some other significant differences...

Fuses 18 and 19 have only one contact present, so can't possibly function.
Fuse 50 is labeled blank...but has a 7.5A fuse installed...

Fuse 40 is a 10A and labelled "heated seats" ... But I have no heated seats. 41 is "Day light"

Interesting I thought. I have a 2013 EX with Navi

This has nothing to do with the post immediately above - I was just wondering where best to plug in my new lighting gear. Hmmm...
 
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So I went out to look at my fuse box. I doesnt have "H8" on it, it says "J9" instead. Also some other significant differences...

Fuses 18 and 19 have only one contact present, so can't possibly function.
Fuse 50 is labeled blank...but has a 7.5A fuse installed...

Fuse 40 is a 10A and labelled "heated seats" ... But I have no heated seats. 41 is "Day light"

Interesting I thought. I have a 2013 EX with Navi

This has nothing to do with the post immediately above - I was just wondering where best to plug in my new lighting gear. Hmmm...
You can use the fuse for anything that is on when key is turned to acc. you can use a expandable fuse connector. thats what Im gonna use to power my gauges.
 

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You can use the fuse for anything that is on when key is turned to acc. you can use a expandable fuse connector. thats what Im gonna use to power my gauges.
Yup, got a fuse tap and covered toggle switch in the mail today :D Nearly done with my kit that I need...
 

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Now would it be possible to run some aftermarket lighting to the fuse box to turn on when i unlock my car and also have it running to a switch/button so i can manually turn them on as well? :confused:
 

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#29 Small light runs your under dash lights, also good if you plan on adding any more interior lighting.
Would you happen to know whats the fuse for interior dimming light when doors open and close? like the front and back dome lights/lights on the bottom of the door? I think that would be ideal for door sills. And then #29 for 2 led strips under the driver and passenger chairs.:think:
 

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The OP mentions the "backup" fuse with the dark box around it. I just want to mention that Honda ships the car without that fuse so the battery isn't unnecessarily drained. The thick box just indicates to whomever is doing the PDI where to put the fuse.
 

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I just want to comment on some strange behavior I found when tapping the #18 fuse. I own a 2011 EX, the same as holeydonut.

Yesterday I wrapped up a huge project where I routed a pair of 12 gauge wires through my firewall to power my amateur radio and four dash cams. I ran the positive line through a RL44 relay, which is controlled by the #18 fuse tap. What I discovered after using the radio for a day has me a bit perplexed.

The #18 fuse activates exactly as holeydonut described, but it will actually stay on even if the car is turned off. The fuse will only deactivate if a door is opened after the car is turned off. It will also deactivate immediately if a car door is already open when the car is turned off. I have only tested this with the driver side door, but I assume it behaves this way for all three doors on the vehicle.

I find this interesting. What could Honda have possibly wanted this kind of behavior for?
 

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I just want to comment on some strange behavior I found when tapping the #18 fuse. I own a 2011 EX, the same as holeydonut.

Yesterday I wrapped up a huge project where I routed a pair of 12 gauge wires through my firewall to power my amateur radio and four dash cams. I ran the positive line through a RL44 relay, which is controlled by the #18 fuse tap. What I discovered after using the radio for a day has me a bit perplexed.

The #18 fuse activates exactly as holeydonut described, but it will actually stay on even if the car is turned off. The fuse will only deactivate if a door is opened after the car is turned off. It will also deactivate immediately if a car door is already open when the car is turned off. I have only tested this with the driver side door, but I assume it behaves this way for all three doors on the vehicle.

I find this interesting. What could Honda have possibly wanted this kind of behavior for?
This is only a guess... but could it be used to trigger a timer for the interior lights so they stay on and then go off after a preset time only after a door is opened?
 

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The #18 fuse activates exactly as holeydonut described, but it will actually stay on even if the car is turned off. The fuse will only deactivate if a door is opened after the car is turned off. It will also deactivate immediately if a car door is already open when the car is turned off. I have only tested this with the driver side door, but I assume it behaves this way for all three doors on the vehicle.

I find this interesting. What could Honda have possibly wanted this kind of behavior for?
The power windows already behave this way. They can be operated up to ten minutes after the vehicle is shut off or one of the doors are opened, whichever comes first. HandsFreeLink will maintain a Bluetooth call for up to 30 minutes, but I'm not sure if it is triggered off by the door the same way.

Speaking of doors, where is the third you speak of? Kidding, of course. I just have never understood the term "3-door hatchback."
 

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If i wanted to power an led in the car, and have it turn on when i turn my lights on, at night, where is the best fuse to tap into? Or am i better off finding something to tap into under the dash?
 

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Since you asked what you'd be better off doing, the best way would be to use one of the independent fuse slots in this thread with an add a circuit for power, tap into the actual circuit that you want your new light to come on with and relay the new light in.

On the relay the terminals would be wired like this:
87: To the new light
86: From the existing light circuit
85: Ground
30: Power from the fuse box (one of the fuse slots in this thread)

Then the new light will come on with it's own power (output won't suffer) when you turn on the car lights (assuming you meant headlights), you won't overload the existing circuit and won't throw any error codes.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/basicrelay.jpg
I am wiring the oem start button on my 2011 crz, this is how the wire harness is set up to work.

The button will work fine like this, but it would never illuminate when I turn my headlights on. So I only need to wire in the last part of the button, for my civic I tapped into the VSA button which was directly next to it and it has the same wire set up as the start button, and I put in jumper wires,button to button, to power the +/- led section and it worked like a charm, the button illuminates with my interior light, when I turn my head lights on. I dont have that option with the crz, and I dont think I need a relay to run it. I just need to either tap into the fusebox in a slot that turns on with the interior lights when you turn your head lights on. Any ideas would be awsome, otherwise I may just tap into the acc +, but I think it would be on all the time when i turn the key to press the start button, versus it being on when I turn on my lights from the steering wheel switch. Any info would help. Thanks.
 

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So I'm going to resurrect this thread for some input: What is the advantage of using one of these circuit taps over splicing onto one of these unused circuits and putting a fuse in the box? is it just to save some work?
 

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So I'm going to resurrect this thread for some input: What is the advantage of using one of these circuit taps over splicing onto one of these unused circuits and putting a fuse in the box? is it just to save some work?
It's more obvious (to me, anyway) that you have an aftermarket addition and what the fuse is.

There's no electrical benefit.
 
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