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Would any aftermarket 8" subs work better in the factory enclosure or is it pretty much custom box or bust?
There are a few out there that will work with the amount of airspace we have, but more of a concern is whether the factory amp would move an aftermarket sub, imo.

Edit: With that in mind, anyone know the RMS power going to the sub and the Resistance ?
 

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I am fairly sure that the factory system is 4ohm. I tested the resistance on the leads and that is what I came up with. The actual use of air space..... well a custom box will always sound better.

As far as the sub magnet size, I was actually more talking about the door speakers and such. I will take a picture of one of those for you if it is still in my trash. The sub has a decent size magnet on it, but nothing like what is found on a good aftermarket sub. The 9in sub I have has about a 10in round magnet and about 2in thick and weighs 35oz It is huge for a shallow mount sub.

 

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I realize this is pulled apart, but the magnet was just a tiny tiny larger around than the voice coil, and only as deep. But this is a factory door speaker from an EX:



I can't find any pictures of the back of the Memphis PR component I put in, but I know my tweeters for the components had a .75in x .75in magnet on it (as large as the tweeter) and the magnet in the mid woofer weighs 10oz where the one on the factory speaker is about 1oz.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_18773_Pioneer_Premier_TS-SW841D.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison

For your sub, this Pioneer Premier TS-SW841D seems like it may work out well. It only requires .15cubic feet of air space. I can not however tell the exact mounting depth, but is is very small. I would assume around 2in or so. It may work in the box, better if you stuff with polyfill. However, it is going to take at min, 100 watts RMS, more likely a 200+ watt amp to sound good. Our stock stereo is 360W total, and I think that is a peek number. If you split that up over 7 speakers it would be about 51W per speaker.... more than likely the front mid woofers and tweeters share the same power source, so just figure a total of 5 units getting power makes it about 72W going to each unit, if they where smart figure they put the majority of the power to the rear sub, I figure it is 160W going to that, and 50W per channel up front, similar to what most aftermarket head units do peek power.

So that equates to about 33W RMS tops.... 66% of peek power. That means the sub would have at most about 100W RMS going to it. So if my calculations are correct, the 8in sub I mentioned above should have JUST enough power, assuming the factory radio provides as efficient of power as an aftermarket stereo. But you are on the way low end and I do not believe that it would be much louder than the factory unit with out upping the output of the amp. Best bet would be replacing the factory amp with a more powerful 5 channel amp and replacing all of your speakers while you are at it. My factory fronts blew up on the stock radio.
 

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I agree, there is not way you could fit a 10" in there! And I definitely will need to pick up a separate amp with a new Sub. Thanks for the opinion.

The magnet is more than 1" though...
Did you measure the mounting depth on there? Or happen to take any pictures of the unit apart? I forgot to when I ripped mine apart, figured if you had the info I may be able to design something that will work for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I did not measure the mounting depth; sorry. (should have :pat:)

All the other pictures I took I posted on the DIY of it. I can say though, if you need MORE mounting depth than that you definitely can't use the OEM box.

Those door magnets are crazy small. Can't wait to replace my speakers!
 

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How much of a difference did Polyfill make? I was thinking about just doing that and a bit of dynamat for the moment as i have it laying around
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I found the polyfill I used in a pillow believe it or not; can't imagine it was a comfortable pillow. :pP:

Because I put a little whole in it with the drill :wallbash: I've left mine unplugged for now, till the silicone stuff I used to patch it is cured. SS2CRZ did his- same pillow, same day and says it's not a NEW SUB difference but it helps. Notes hit a little deeper, not harder at all really he says.
 

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Yeah polyfill basically dampens some of the air in the box making it act like a larger box and giving it the ability to hit lower tones, some times louder tones as well. Don't over pack it because the sub still needs to vent, but some fill in there helps.

As far as where to get it.... Walmart in the craft's section about $4 for a huge bag of it!
 

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^ Ah, a little bit of hooliganizm there.. But probably not a good idea if you want to get some later... 4 dollars at Walmart is probably a wiser decision...
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I just got back from my trip and the polyfill makes a very noticeable difference in my opinion.
 

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This seems to be an old forum and i dunno if anyone is still around, but i just bought a 2013 Honda CRZ Hybrid. It has a base stereo system which i am upgrading and NO base unit. Can i purchase a used one and add it, replace the sub with aftermarket sub, and use an amp? or will the OEM sub box even fit in my CRZ? thanks in advance!
 

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This seems to be an old forum and i dunno if anyone is still around, but i just bought a 2013 Honda CRZ Hybrid. It has a base stereo system which i am upgrading and NO base unit. Can i purchase a used one and add it, replace the sub with aftermarket sub, and use an amp? or will the OEM sub box even fit in my CRZ? thanks in advance!
I did the same thing on my base model. In order to fit the OEM sub, you will need the whole left rear interior trim that has a cutout for the oem sub. The issue I encounter was that only one bolt goes onto the chassis and I had to secure the sub with some metal zip ties. I also used some foam pieces to make the sub snug in place. I was lucky enough to find the sub and the interior panel for really cheap. You could replace the oem sub with aftermarket sub and there’s a post for that mod.... someone please post or you could search for it.

The way I Power the oem sub is with an aftermarket amp and I tune it carefully so I don’t overdrive it. The OEM sub is kinda weak but it’s definitely better than nothing.....
 

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I did the same thing on my base model. In order to fit the OEM sub, you will need the whole left rear interior trim that has a cutout for the oem sub. The issue I encounter was that only one bolt goes onto the chassis and I had to secure the sub with some metal zip ties. I also used some foam pieces to make the sub snug in place. I was lucky enough to find the sub and the interior panel for really cheap. You could replace the oem sub with aftermarket sub and there’s a post for that mod.... someone please post or you could search for it.

The way I Power the oem sub is with an aftermarket amp and I tune it carefully so I don’t overdrive it. The OEM sub is kinda weak but it’s definitely better than nothing.....
I’ve found the OEM Sub for as cheap as $45. I’ll have to google the interior trim panel to try and find it. I wasnt sure if it’s be worth my time or should I try and build something custom possibly in the flip up hide-away area. If I could fit an 8” sub/box on one side and the amp on the other or possibly 2 8” subs that would be great. I’m not as talented as one post I saw where the guy built a really nice custom setup like I was describing for 10’s. Just want some bass without it sacrificing what little space is available.
 
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