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Discussion Starter #81
Finally installed the wheels yesterday, really enjoying the new setup with the Koni Oranges and Swift springs.









It's been raining every other day here in VA, so I haven't washed the car yet.

I also found a dime size bubble in the rear passenger tire, so I've ordered a replacement tire which should be here in a day or so.

For people interested in the wheel/tire specs, these are 17x8 +35 running 195/40's all the way around. Lowered on swift springs I haven't encountered any rubbing and can go full lock to lock with no issues. Rear has a 20mm spacer installed to make it more flush with the fender, there were no issues with clearance, I just wanted it to be more in line with the front wheels.

I'm going to run these tires for the time being, but once it's time to replace I'll be going with a larger tire.

Other than that I ordered some switchback LED bulbs for my front blinkers, along with plug n play resistors so they don't hyper flash. I also ordered a sheet of transparent red vinyl. I plan on using it for the taillights blinker section, so they'll end up being all red, except for the square for the reverse lights.
 
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Discussion Starter #82
Replaced the tire with the bubble yesterday, but I was still getting some vibrations from the rear. Took everything apart to inspect it, and noticed that the stock lug bolts were sticking out past the 20mm spacers, about another mm or 2. It was causing the rear wheels to not fully seat on the spacer, causing the vibrations. Luckily I also have a pair of 25mm spacers, put those on the rear and everything cleared and is rolling super smooth now. Also used my buddy's TPMS reader and OBD2 scan tool to program all 4 sensors to the car, that worked without any issues.

I received the throttle body I bought off eBay today, so I placed my order with MaxBore and will be sending it off today after work.

After getting the bored TB back, along with my header, I think that's gonna be it for bolt on power mods, unless y'all know of any others I could add before getting it tuned. Might possibly do an LSD in the future, just gotta find someone I trust to install it.

Also, since installing that one new tire, it made the tread depth and camber wear of the other tires more obvious. Since I also don't know how old the tires on the wheels are, I'm going to order 3 more so they're all new and matching. For $55 a tire I'll be happy if they last me through to the next summer season, wherein I'll buy some better quality and slightly wider tires.

Other than that I'm still waiting on my gauge pod to come back so I can install my gauges. Also contemplating buying one of the JP style front lips off eBay, since there aren't many options for the CRZ, but I'm not committed to it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Received my gauge pod back yesterday. I'm happy with the way it came out, I can still use the storage for something although I need to clean off whatever they got inside it while they were fabricating the pod.









I also finally received tracking information from RZCrewGarage. My header should be here on Wednesday.

I forgot to order a clamp on o2 Sensor adapter when I bought my gauges, so once that comes in I'll be installing them.
 
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Discussion Starter #84
Got a couple things accomplished this weekend.

Installed the SuperCircuit header, took about 2 hours from start to finish. It's definitely louder than it was, but not obnoxiously so, and it doesn't have that tinny sound that usually comes with straight pipe exhausts. I can definitely feel the car pulling harder in the mid range RPM's. Emissions System CEL came on about 5 miles after installation, disabled secondary o2 in FlashPro and haven't had CEL issues since. Just waiting to get my throttle body back from MaxBore, then I'll most likely get an etune depending on the price difference from an in person dyno tune.

I also got all the old tint removed, and new 5% installed all the way around. Looks a lot better in my opinion, especially on a black car.





Also decided to mock up my gauges and gauge pod







I'll be actually installing everything and wiring the gauges this coming Friday. I've collected plenty of resources from the forum on wiring best practices and where to route through the firewall. I'm confident I can get it done in a less than a day.

Other than that I completed my front end LED swap by adding LED's to my fog lights and blinkers, with resistors for each. I went with switchbacks on my turn signals, and the white portion of the LED's are almost as bright as my low beams when they're on. The resistors for the blinkers get extremely hot, so I following some information I found on the forum before. I super glued the resistors to flat metal sections of the chassis, and checked them after a full night of driving and they stayed put and nothing around them was hot, so that's a success.

I also ordered my alarm(Viper 5706v), window module(DEI535T) and iDatalink CANBUS Interfuse. The window module will make both windows 1 touch up/down, allow me to roll the windows up/down from the keyfob as well as automatically roll up the windows when the alarm is armed. The iDatalink Interfuse will allow me to have remote start without sacrificing a key.

I bought a set of OEM window visors which I'll be installing once the tint has cured as well.

I've started having issues with my passenger door handle releasing when pulled, which I know is a common issue with CRZ's. My buddy had the drivers side replaced when he still owned it so hopefully that one will hold up, but I gotta order a new one for the passenger side. Install looks like kind of a PITA, but it's better than getting frustrated at the door when it won't open after numerous attempts.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Completed installing my gauges on Friday, took about 7 hours start to finish.

I used a 28mm water temperature adapter, installed in the upper radiator hose for my water temp reading. For oil pressure I was originally going to use an oil sandwich adapter, but after seeing Litz's build thread where he used a T fitting on the factory oil pressure sensor port, I went that route instead. Shoutout to @litz for confirming what size fitting I needed and giving me a link as well. Installation is a bit of a pain in that location, as you only have enough room for 1/4 - 1/2 a turn, so it takes awhile but is definitely worth it IMO. For my wideband o2 sensor, I used a clamp on bung adapter after drilling a 13/16" hole in my T1R test pipe, just before the factory secondary o2 sensor.

As for wiring everything, I used information from this thread: The Gauge Thread

I coupled up all the same color wires at the gauge pod, then ran single wires down to the fuse box, contained within some plastic conduit. For the sensor wires I ran all of them through the grommet on the passenger side of the firewall. I was able to route everything through the firewall with only removing the rear most cover under the passenger side of the dash. I used a straightened out wire coat hanger and it made everything a lot easier. I also tucked the wideband control module into the passenger side of the front portion of the center console, in case I need to push the calibration button in the future.

I'm really happy with how everything turned out, and the fact that I only had 1 issue during installation. I had to change which fuses I tapped into, as using #19 and #40 from the above mentioned thread didn't work for me. I used the power door lock fuse as the constant power, the radio fuse for switched power, then used the positive wire on the cup holder light for the dimmer function. I didn't really take any pics during installation as it's been covered a couple different times before.

Gauges powered up before the sensors were wired.


After everything was complete, sorry for the blur.


I also installed my OEM window visors, I'll get some better pics of everything soon.
 
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Discussion Starter #86
Haven't had much time for the CR-Z as works been super busy and my chick is out of town so I'm on double dog duty which doesn't leave time for too much else.

I did finally get my alarm and window module installed last weekend. So now both my windows are 1 touch up and down and I have remote start now which is super convenient. I do plan on getting a generic key cut and programmed for the car, as carrying around the alarm fob and the large flip key is pretty bulky.

Snapped a clearer picture of my gauges at night when I went for a drive yesterday. Oil pressure wasn't reading due to the auto stop.


I've also installed a rear window visor and turbulator off eBay. I wasn't sure if I liked the turbulator at first but it's grown on me, I'll post pictures of them when I get time to take some.

In more exciting news, I sent the OEM mirror and camera to my buddy in Texas who loves to do everything auto electronics wise. He's been my auto installer for 10 years and has even went as far as creating numerous custom wiring harnesses from scratch to add power options and accessories to my CRX.

Turns out the first mirror I purchased off eBay was a dud and he couldn't get it to work at all, so he ordered another one off eBay, and sent me this picture last night after bench testing it.



He was able to get everything working with all the OEM hardware and wiring, he should be sending it back to me soon and I'm hoping I get it by next weekend. I'll still need to create a harness for it and run all the necessary wires through the car to the bumper for the camera, but this proves that it's totally possible to add this 2013+ feature to the 2011-2012 CR-Z's.

I've seen a couple different people ask about this mod, so I plan on documenting all the wiring and connectivity while I'm creating the harness so other people can do it as well. I'm gonna order the mirror wiring cover and new clip for the camera, so everything looks as OEM as possible.

Other than that I'm considering ordering the optional body side moldings, side spoilers and rear diffuser, just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
 
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Discussion Starter #88
Got a couple pics while I was out running errands. Front wheels are dirty as I haven't installed my low dust brake pads yet.

I like how the window visors look, and the install was simple. I wasn't sure about the rear visor and turbulator combo initially, but I've grown to like it.













If I end up keeping the turbulator on I'll more than likely get it painted the same time I get my roof painted.

Lastly, my buddy in Texas who figured out the mirror and camera wiring said he got bored today so he made me a complete harness. So the install will now be plug and play outside of 1 power wire, 1 ground wire and 1 backup light wire. Gotta love it when your friends go above and beyond!







 

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Discussion Starter #89
Been awhile since I've posted, nothing really new with the CRZ as it's been snowing on the east coast for a couple weeks. Finally got to take her out a couple times this week.



In my continual search to extract as much power out of the car as I can without a kswap, I've decided to rebuild my motor with some upgraded internals.

I was originally going to buy a long block from Redline Auto Parts to build outside of the car, but that's an extra ~$700 and would leave me with a 180k mile CRZ motor that would be hard to sell.

My plan is to collect everything I'll be needing in the next couple of months, then I'll be driving the car down to Texas for the rebuild. Driving across the country to get your motor rebuilt might seem unnecessary to most, but all my connections, friends and hookups are in Austin as I lived there for 30 years. I know everything will be done right the first time, using my long time mechanic, machine shop, transmission shop, tuner etc. I also plan on doing some chassis bracing upgrades depending on how long it's down there.

I've already decided on the internals I'm going with, as there are limited options for our cars. What I'm trying to figure out at the moment is the GE8 head/valvetrain swap.

I've read the couple different threads on the upgrade here, but I can't find a definitive answer to my primary question. Can I swap the entire head onto the CRZ block and not have any issues with sensors, additional wiring, line routing etc? Or is the general rule to just swap the valvetrain from the GE8 head, into the CRZ head?

I already have FlashPro, so no worries from an ECU/Tuning standpoint, just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start pulling the trigger on parts.

Lastly, I'll be getting an LSD so might aswell rebuild the transmission while I'm in there. I know the MT's are a common failure point when pushing more horsepower, so I've been looking for any upgraded transmission parts for our cars. I can't even find carbon syncros that show compadible. I know we can use LSD's from the RSX/EP3 transmissions, so I'm wondering if there's any other transmission internals we may share with those cars?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
Found a thread I apparently missed.


Swapping the cam and rocker assembly into the CRZ head looks like the way to go.

Just ordered a GE8 head off eBay so that's secured.

Decided to get the pistons and rods at the same time.

Got Wiseco forged pistons which should drop the compression ratio from 10.4:1 to 10:1. Paired with Brian Crower Sportsman billet rods. Pistons were readily available, rods are special order and may take over a month to be manufactured and shipped.

Putting together a list of everything I'll need for the bottom end, before moving onto the head.
 
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Discussion Starter #91
Forgot vanity plates are like $12 in VA. Saw this somewhere before and loved it so I got it.

63461
 
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Discussion Starter #92
Pistons and rods showed up at my buddies shop already. Guess Kami didn't have the rods in stock but BC did, as they were dropped shipped directly from BC.





I've also been in contact with Jeff at CNCWerx, about installing their Cylinder Support System in a CRZ motor. They've never done an LEA motor before, but said they were more than willing to give it a shot.

So I ordered a bare block from RedlineAutoParts that I'll be shipping off to be the first CRZ with CSS :D
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Installed my new shift knob, boot and collar today.

My buddy sold me the car with the DBZ knob.


A year later and I finally upgrade to a Raceseng Slammer. The boot is from Redline Goods on Amazon. The quality is superb and the cut outs are literally exactly as OEM so everything fits perfectly where it should underneath. I went with Black Suede (Alcantara) and Blue Thread.


 
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Discussion Starter #94
I bought the Seibon carbon fiber hood from M33D0 earlier this week since he was local.

Luckily it fit in the back of the CRZ lol





Structurally it's solid, and has no physical damage what so ever. The clear coat is pretty bad in certain areas, but he made that obvious in his post so I knew what I was getting into.

Some portions only have light oxidation, which I've seen be restored to like new condition on previous cars I've owned.




Other portions have severe cracking all throughout the clear coat, not sure if these can be entirely fixed without risking damage to the carbon.




I figured I'd try my best to find someone willing to attempt repairing the clear coat, and if I can't or it ends up getting damaged I can just paint match it to my car.

I sent quote requests to 10 body shops in the NOVA area.
Only 5 actually got back to me.
2 of them directly told me no, they could only paint it for me.
3 of them gave me ballpark quotes that were all within $150-200 of each other.
Took it to the first shop that gave me a quote. They ended up telling me they couldn't do it due to the cracks, but could paint it for me.
Took it to the second shop that quoted me, which was an hour away. They were the cheapest quote I received and were the most willing to help. They were honest about expectations and that they can't guarantee all the cracks will be removed, but they estimated about 70-80% of it to be repairable. They also said they can attempt to fill the larger cracks with clear to see if they will minimize.The place has stellar reviews on Yelp, and when I told the service guy helping me that his answer was "Because we try".

Hood should be done Wed-Thur of next week. I'm excited to see how much of it they can repair, either way it's gonna look a whole lot better when I get it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Through the wide reach of social media, along with word of mouth from people who saw my WTB post, I was able to find a pretty much brand new Golden Eagle intake manifold.

I honestly thought CRZ_SAM was another scam account when he posted on my WTB thread and PM'd me. Turns out numerous people had contacted him on Facebook letting him know someone on the CRZ forum was looking for a GE manifold, so he created a new account to reach out.

Sam helped test and tune the GE manifold back when they were creating it, and happened to have a new condition manifold when he started parting his car out a year ago.

After talking to him for awhile we agreed on a price and he should be shipping it to my buddies shop today.













I also want to give a shout out to @SheepGeeks . I randomly messaged him because I knew he had a GE manifold on his car. He actually got back to me and entertained the notion of removing it, selling it to me and shipping it to the US from Malaysia. Luckily I was able to find one state side, but the fact that he even considered selling me his is a reminder of how awesome the CRZ community is!

In other news, the block arrived at my buddies shop in Texas last week. He wasn't aware that I ordered a completely bare block from RedlineAutoParts. After going over a couple different options we decided it would be best to get a long block so we won't be searching for every piece and part to reassemble the short block and can build the motor outside of the car. I also gotta give a shout out to Ryan at RedlineAutoParts. I called them and explained the situation about me ordering a bare block, but that I now wanted a long block. They allowed me to return the bare block for store credit, and use that towards the purchase of a long block, which they'll be shipping out today. I now know why certain members sing praises for RedlineAutoParts, I'll definitely be going back if I need any other OEM parts for my car.

Once it arrives at my buddies shop he'll be tearing down the motor and sending the block to CNCWerx for the CSS. Then it'll be time to start getting all the parts together to build the head.

I believe the GE intake manifold was the last rare performance part I wanted. I've looked into cams from Bisi and Jun but didn't get a reply from either when I reached out.

If anyone knows of any other performance parts my build may benefit from please let me know! :D
 

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Thanks for the mention there, T.K. I'm happy for you and myself, at least I don't have to get a retune and lowering my power at the meantime. Remember to saw off one of the heatshield bolt flat to provide more clearance for the manifold and engine to rock.

I have been trying to contact Bisi but no reply, after some times they had removed the cams for our CRZ from their web. I believe they'd stop producing that. You may try Catcam's camshaft for L15A7 after you did the GE8 rocker swap.

Apart of that, you should start considering what clutch to be used. My experiences, ORC 309 Metal series starts to slip pass 6,000rpm at my torque range. Those who did 300HP turbocharged in my country did a cross swap clutch by using 350Z's if I'm not mistaken.

Here are my humble advice from a person who struggle and did all the research whether to build the LEA or K-Swap. All the best! Don't forget to post the dyno chart once everything is done.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Thanks for the mention there, T.K. I'm happy for you and myself, at least I don't have to get a retune and lowering my power at the meantime. Remember to saw off one of the heatshield bolt flat to provide more clearance for the manifold and engine to rock.
I'll make sure to check everything around the manifold and trim what's needed to ensure no damage comes to it.

I have been trying to contact Bisi but no reply, after some times they had removed the cams for our CRZ from their web. I believe they'd stop producing that. You may try Catcam's camshaft for L15A7 after you did the GE8 rocker swap.
Yea, I didn't get any response from Bisi or Jun. I haven't heard of Catcam before but I'll look into their camshafts.

Apart of that, you should start considering what clutch to be used. My experiences, ORC 309 Metal series starts to slip pass 6,000rpm at my torque range. Those who did 300HP turbocharged in my country did a cross swap clutch by using 350Z's if I'm not mistaken.
I've been going back and forth about which clutch to use. We already decided to stay with the stock flywheel as I've read of other users having false misfire codes when using a lightweight flywheel.

As of right now I had planned on going with a SPEC stage 3+(SHZ153F), but I've never heard of using different vehicle clutches in the CRZ. I'll have to do some more homework on that one.
 
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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
Redline shipping shows the long block should arrive at my buddies shop tomorrow. Hopefully he can tear it down and ship the block off before the weekend.

CNCWerx estimated 8-10 weeks to install the Cylinder Support System in my LEA. Since this is the first LEA they're doing the turnaround time almost doubles. Hopefully the block is close enough to the L15A that it won't take the full 10 weeks. While the block is sent off we're gonna build the head.

I ordered another batch of parts today:
SuperTech Black Nitrided Intake Valves
SuperTech Inconel Exhaust Valves
SuperTech Valve Spring and Retainer Kit
ARP Head Stud Kit
ARP Main Stud Kit

I contemplated getting the head ported, but I'm not trying to go THAT hard just yet, haha. Will probably just get it gasket matched for now.

SheepGeeks turned me onto CatCams so I took a look at what they offer. They have 2 stages of upgraded L15A7 cams, which should fit right into my rebuilt head with the GE8 rocker assemblies. So I've emailed both CatCams, along with their only US dealer VAC Motorsports, to see which of the 2 stages they recommend for my build, along with if they offer core refunds.

Lastly, I received confirmation today from Mike at Insane Shafts that they're willing to build me a pair of upgraded axles for the CRZ with an LEA motor. Haven't gotten a reply on what exactly the HP rating will be, but that should alleviate any and all axle concerns, so one less thing to worry about.

No word on the hood yet, but I'm not trying to rush them.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Long block showed up at my buddies shop today. It's pretty clean.





I went ahead and paid for the axles from Insane Shafts. They'll be rated for 500whp, which I'll never even get close to lol. I asked for an intermediate shaft as well, but they declined that request.

I also heard back from CatCams this morning. They recommended their less aggressive cam for my build, for reasons I'll explain later. I called VAC Motorsports to check their stock, and unfortunately they don't have any of the cams in stock. So I gave CatCams the go ahead to make one for me, ETA is 8-9 weeks.

I feel like that rounds out the major things I needed/wanted. Now it's the waiting game while things get shipped out and new parts arrive.
 
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Discussion Starter #100
Started looking into fuel system options for my build, reached out to a couple people and companies to get recommendations.

Looks like universal fuel pumps are our only option, and the owner of Xenocron recommended the DeatschWerks DW65c which flows at 265lph. Looks like a nice, compact fuel pump. They don't have an install kit for the CRZ, but they list one for 06-11 Civics. I looked on Google and the pump assembly from the civic looks almost exactly like the CRZ one, so hopefully that install kit will work.

For injectors I reached out to Injector Dynamics for a consult, as I know our cars can share injectors from S2000's, RSX's, Civics etc. Decided to go with the ID1050X injectors, part number 1050.48.14.14.4 to be exact. It's a bit of overkill but better to overshoot than under IMO.

Seems like everyone just stays with the stock fuel rail as well. I'm gonna see if I can find an aftermarket rail that'll work. I know Bisi used a Kinsler rail on his build, but he was also using an IM that didn't pass over the head so there was more space for the rail. We'll see what happens.

Lastly, I finally got a call from the body shop that has my carbon fiber hood today. I talked to the same guy that helped me when I dropped it off. He apologized for the delay, as it was estimated to be done on Wednesday, but the extra time doesn't bother me at all. He said they did an initial sanding and re clear, and while the faded parts looked brand new, the cracks were still very visible. He told me so far they've sanded and cleared the hood about 5 times, and the remaining cracks get smaller and smaller every time they do. They're going to keep working on it to see if they can get 100% of the cracks out, service guy was pretty confident they can get it back to new condition. New ETA is next Wednesday.
 
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