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I have always owned trucks that are always dirty and the most i ever did to detail any of them was to run them through the car wash. Could someone help me(and maybe a few others like myself) out by doing a step by step process on how to do a really good quality wash wax and polish job on a car? Pictures would be much appreciated. This is my first brand new vehicle and my first car so i really want to keep it clean and looking good for a long time.
 

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i recently for the first time ever clayed and waxed my z. came out great, and i had no prior experience. i got the mother's kit which came with a quick wax, and it's been offering great protection since i did it.

do this: wash your car with dish soap to get it ready to be clayed. clay each section bit by bit. you spray a spot with the supplied spray, and just vigorously rub the clay over that spot until you've done the whole car. wipe with microfiber as you go too. then, when that's all done, just spray the quick wax section by section and wipe off. took me four total hours, and i was dealing with a lot of built up grime, and clear coat overspray. you should be able to do it much quicker.
 

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Well, your first step is to get the squence right

Step 1 Wash
Step 2 Polish
Step 3 Wax

In washing you should use a product designed for washing cars and not dish soap. Dish soap will strip away any wax on the car. So the only time you want to use dish soap on your car is as an initial start of a wash/polish/wax process. From that point on, never use dish soap unless you are ready to start over.

Polishing is the act of smoothing out the paint on the car to produce the best possible shine. There are a multitude of polishing products designed for this purpose. Clay barring can be a part of the polish process and is very useful in removing contaminants that have settled into the paint. A properly polished car will shine like new, but does not have any protection on it.

Waxing is the process of putting a protective coating on your finely polished paint. You can use polymer based synthetic wax products or Carnuba wax products. Many will argue the virtues of each, but you just choose one or the other and use it exclusively. At least 2 coats initially, 3 if you are having fun!

Wash your car whenever it get dirty and re-wax it every 6 months and you are good to go.

Many products are designed to be cleaner/polish/wax in one product results can be satisfying, but anyone serious about the best looking finish will use a 3 step process.

Personally, I am a big fan of the Zaino system, and there is a whole thread about it on this forum.

Now that is all you have to do to protect you paint, but that is not the same as a fully detailed car which includes sweating the little stuff for your car to look it's very best. This includes treating the plastic parts with a proper product and cleaning every little nook and cranny, waxing your wheels etc.
 

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^agreed.

i recommended dish soap because, while the car is brand new, i still noticed a major difference after i clayed and waxed, and you don't do any of that unless you use dish soap first. so in my opinion, for your very first wash, use dish soap, clay the car off, and then wax it. the mothers kit was only $15 at walmart and has everything you need (except the dish soap). can't beat that.

from there on out, get a wash that is designed for cars and only wash and wax. once a year you can do the clay process.
 

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Same thing I did. I forget if it was the Mothers or Meguiars clay kit, but that's where I started.
after that I got in to the boutique waxes (opti-seal for me), but there's nothing wrong w/ the big commercial name brand products.
Meguiars NXT 'wax'(technically a sealant) gives a great shine for a product you can get about anywhere. You'll probably have to reapply it every couple of months as it's not the longest lasting, but looks great.

If you want to go a little overboard wash it, clay it, then use NXT or some other brand 'sealant', then go for a carnauba wax on top of that (so 4 steps).
But, that depends on the color of your car and what kind of shine you're going for. I didn't like the carnauba wax on my PWP paint, as it was too much like a mirror, and the pearlness didn't really show through. For a black car, though, it looks great.
 

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i recently for the first time ever clayed and waxed my z. came out great, and i had no prior experience. i got the mother's kit which came with a quick wax, and it's been offering great protection since i did it.

do this: wash your car with dish soap to get it ready to be clayed. clay each section bit by bit. you spray a spot with the supplied spray, and just vigorously rub the clay over that spot until you've done the whole car. wipe with microfiber as you go too. then, when that's all done, just spray the quick wax section by section and wipe off. took me four total hours, and i was dealing with a lot of built up grime, and clear coat overspray. you should be able to do it much quicker.
Well, your first step is to get the squence right

Step 1 Wash
Step 2 Polish
Step 3 Wax

In washing you should use a product designed for washing cars and not dish soap. Dish soap will strip away any wax on the car. So the only time you want to use dish soap on your car is as an initial start of a wash/polish/wax process. From that point on, never use dish soap unless you are ready to start over.

Polishing is the act of smoothing out the paint on the car to produce the best possible shine. There are a multitude of polishing products designed for this purpose. Clay barring can be a part of the polish process and is very useful in removing contaminants that have settled into the paint. A properly polished car will shine like new, but does not have any protection on it.

Waxing is the process of putting a protective coating on your finely polished paint. You can use polymer based synthetic wax products or Carnuba wax products. Many will argue the virtues of each, but you just choose one or the other and use it exclusively. At least 2 coats initially, 3 if you are having fun!

Wash your car whenever it get dirty and re-wax it every 6 months and you are good to go.

Many products are designed to be cleaner/polish/wax in one product results can be satisfying, but anyone serious about the best looking finish will use a 3 step process.

Personally, I am a big fan of the Zaino system, and there is a whole thread about it on this forum.

Now that is all you have to do to protect you paint, but that is not the same as a fully detailed car which includes sweating the little stuff for your car to look it's very best. This includes treating the plastic parts with a proper product and cleaning every little nook and cranny, waxing your wheels etc.
first off, tcroly got it right... dish soap should ONLY be used if you plan on detailing your whole car. dish soap is used mainly because it is a good way to strip your car's paint of pretty much everything (i.e. layers of wax and other contaminants). if you're going to just wash the car, please DO NOT use dish washing liquid, and opt for your good old car wash soap instead.

what i've learned from people over the years, if you really want to do a full detail, you would:

- wash car with dish soap
- clay the car
- wash car again with car wash soap
- polish/glaze
- wax

it takes time, but well worth it if you want to keep your car's paint looking pristine. also, when you clay your car, make sure you fold the clay over every now and then so you're not using the same side of the clay for your whole car
 

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dude, that's exactly what i said lol!

the mother's kit didn't recommend a wash after the clay. it left my car smooth to the touch, so i just wiped it down with microfiber and waxed.
 

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yea you really dont need to wash after the clay, but a lot of people i come across do it anyway, so what's another 15-20 mins out of your 6 hour detail job haha

you didn't just seal your car with a simple spray quick wax did you?
 

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i know a guy who does car detailing and the garage where he work charge me 300$$ for a whole job pro clean the car and 3 step compound and wax the car,does the inside too.garanty better than showroom. do you all think it's worth it or is he sreewing me and i should do the car myself with muaguire's nxt.or are there product any better ?????
 

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i know a guy who does car detailing and the garage where he work charge me 300$$ for a whole job pro clean the car and 3 step compound and wax the car,does the inside too.garanty better than showroom. do you all think it's worth it or is he sreewing me and i should do the car myself with muaguire's nxt.or are there product any better ?????
IMO that is a fair price for a complete professional detail of a full size or midsized car. This assumes that he is doing all the details and fully cleaning all the hidden recesses of the car both inside and out.

Something to consider is that a CRZ is a very small car with no back seat area to clean, so I would ot expect a detail of a CRZ to cost as much.
 

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yea you really dont need to wash after the clay, but a lot of people i come across do it anyway, so what's another 15-20 mins out of your 6 hour detail job haha

you didn't just seal your car with a simple spray quick wax did you?
I may have. What should I do? It seems to be holding really well. It's been raining by me a lot lately and the water beads every time, better than when I bought the car new. It also dries without water stains. Seems ok, but i'm open to suggestions. The wax I used was mothers pro wax or something like that.
 

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That is a good starter kit and would be fine for someone getting started taking car of a new car. But if you were preparing a car that has had 6 months or more exposure to the elements, you would want more than just a clay bar to prep the paint for waxing.

So you would want to add something like these two products:

Mothers® California Gold® Pre-Wax Cleaner - Step 1

Mothers® California Gold® Sealer & Glaze - Step 2

The "reflections wax" included in this kit is a one step, cleaner/wax. Purists would not love this product, but it will do a fine job on a new undamaged paint finish like a new CRZ would have.
 

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I may have. What should I do? It seems to be holding really well. It's been raining by me a lot lately and the water beads every time, better than when I bought the car new. It also dries without water stains. Seems ok, but i'm open to suggestions. The wax I used was mothers pro wax or something like that.
yea i mean the quick wax would probably be just enough to hold you over for a little bit, but i suggest doing what tcroly suggested to sirjonsnow. do a pre-wax cleaner, then a sealer/glaze and finish it off with carnauba wax. but if you dont wanna go through all that, a good couple layers of carnauba wax would do perfectly. and you can finish it off with another layer of the quick wax if you wanted to
 

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i always have a question, how do you apply multiple coat of wax?

is it paste the wax, let it sit a while, clean the dry wax, buff it to shine then do it all over again?

Do you need to let the coat settle before apply another coat?
 

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IMO that is a fair price for a complete professional detail of a full size or midsized car. This assumes that he is doing all the details and fully cleaning all the hidden recesses of the car both inside and out.

Something to consider is that a CRZ is a very small car with no back seat area to clean, so I would ot expect a detail of a CRZ to cost as much.
good point!! thanks:hi5:
 
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