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Sprintex Problem

3K views 8 replies 2 participants last post by  litz 
#1 ·
Hi guys, I bought a CRZ with a sprintex on it and am having some issues now. Drove the car a good 10k miles before any issues. Ktuner is also on it. After driving for 10-15 minutes it starts detonating pretty bad. Throws codes for MAP sensor and both o2 sensors. I’ve replaced both o2 sensors and have a primary cat on the way. The MAP sensor is not the stock CRZ one and is located on the boost side. I’ve tried to replace that but can’t find the right replacement. Does anybody know what MAP sensor I should be using? Or any other advice on fixing this issue?
 
#2 ·
...I’ve tried to replace that but can’t find the right replacement. Does anybody know what MAP sensor I should be using? Or any other advice on fixing this issue?
I am using the OEM MAP sensor, mounted to the Sprintex. No problems at all. If I remember correctly, the hole is a slightly different size--can't remember which, larger/smaller--but I found an O-ring from the local hardware store that fit. (I'm thinking the one that worked, had the same inner diameter as the OEM, but slightly larger outer diameter--and it fit really snug, plus I had to drill the mounting screw hole of the sensor to a slight oval, to get the screw perpendicular so it wouldn't cross-thread....) There may be a post on my build thread about it, but I also might just have an extra O-ring of that particular size that I can mail to you, if needed.
 
#4 ·
KTuner now, though I ran the piggyback for a couple of years with no problems, other than the occasional P0400 (?) DTC popping up throughout the year. What is the major DTC that's showing with your problem? The only problem, when first getting it tuned by DMV (an authorized KTuner Dealer,) it presented a P2227 DTC, and KTuner fixed it with an update to the software.
 
#7 ·
...P0141 and p1129 are today’s codes ...
Replaced the cat, replaced the MAP sensor. Still getting the same codes but haven’t noticed anymore detonation. I’m at a loss here. Any help?
I'm sorry I didn't notice the significance of the post of six days ago with the P0141 DTC, or else I would have replied then. That's associated with the secondary oxygen sensor, which should be disabled with your tuner--do you have KTuner or Hondata? (Once you have that disabled through the software, you can remove the sensor and/or wiring with no problem.)

The P1129 DTC, associated with the MAP, is similar to, if not, the exact problem I had after getting tuned on the dyno when changing the tune base from the piggyback to KTuner. The solution was to have KTuner update the software to disable the "Sensor signal Higher than expected..." warning, since the MAP was placed on the boost side of the intake, but you must/should check the boost with a gauge to insure that it's not actually going over, say, 9psi to be safe.

If you're using the piggyback system (I don't think you are, right?) then the problem is in the jumper wiring to trick the ECU into thinking that it's okay to be running boost/higher psi in the manifold.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the tips Litz. After a couple more trips to the tuner, the car is running much better. However, there’s a new issue. It’s only happened a couple times. After a 75% throttle run through 2-3 the CEL light starts flashing and power drops by 80%. The car won’t even pull its own weight. Throws MAF code and misfire in all cylinders. It feels like an issue with the battery drive system but I dunno. Any insight here?
 
#9 ·
Not sure what that would be off hand, but at least you're not getting a code about a problem with the MAP. A MAF, without knowing the specific code, I'd check the air filter and clean the MAF sensor, and make sure the gasket at the base of the sensor is good and not sucking air in at the sensor's mounting point. You should check condition of spark plugs too, but also check with the tuner--maybe he knows exactly what to tweak to solve the problem (since it happens at the same throttle response, but make sure air filter/MAF sensor are good, ruling out hardware problems before taking it to the tuner for a software fix.) ...oh, and if you're using an oiled-type air filter, you may be getting a film over your sensor, if the filter was too saturated with oil when you cleaned/oiled it.

Can you clear the codes and get it back to normal--I'm assuming that "the car won't even pull its own weight" means that it went into limp mode to save the engine. Best thing to do, is to run a log with your tuning software and take a run to get it to repeat the same errors, and e-mail the log to the tuner, so he can check out what's happening at the time it drops into limp mode.
 
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