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I might be mistaken, but you can also use a complete GE8 head on the Z block correct? That would be pricey considering you're going to buy all the parts instead of just the cam, and you would have to do a tune anyway. However, there might be more power to be gained.

someone more knowledgeable speak up haha.
 

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Zf1 with sprintex. Did the cam swap few months ago. Precam swap 128whp, post camswap 150whp. Pros : highers redline limit similar to ge8 honda fit, late activation of vtec . Cons: low rpm fuel consumption increase. Best mod ever. Cheers
Sounds like you found a nice upgrade there. What's your tuning software--or is it still running with the piggyback? Any issues with DTC's?
 

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Just a little suspicious about those dyno readings, keeping in mind that dynos are always subject to immediate atmospheric conditions. I wonder why the stock reading is so jumpy, and why the after-cam's reading doesn't show the torque and horsepower values crossing at 5250 RPM, which is an artifact of the math involved.

Still, another twenty horses is almost like installing a second IMA.
 

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@Zerobyte all you need now is a supercharger or turbo and you would be around the same hp tq as a k swap. Good alternative being it's cheaper and you keep the ima.
 

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Zf1 with sprintex. Did the cam swap few months ago. Precam swap 128whp, post camswap 150whp. Pros : highers redline limit similar to ge8 honda fit, late activation of vtec . Cons: low rpm fuel consumption increase. Best mod ever. Cheers


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Redline and VTEC actuation point are not tied to the camshaft or rocker assembly - this is completely configurable on a CR-Z LEAMF6 head. Fuel consumption may indeed go up with the Spoon/GE8 kit, though, since it's got additional valves open at low RPM (though really it *shouldn't* matter much).
 

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Redline and VTEC actuation point are not tied to the camshaft or rocker assembly - this is completely configurable on a CR-Z LEAMF6 head. Fuel consumption may indeed go up with the Spoon/GE8 kit, though, since it's got additional valves open at low RPM (though really it *shouldn't* matter much).
Many of those words are true, but it's a bit misleading.
You're right that the redline and Vtec point are controlled by software and not the cam, but I believe the point was that the optimum setpoint of both is going to change with a different cam, generally upward.
 

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I don't think there's really such a thing as an optimum vtec actuation RPM - it's entirely up to the driver at which point he wants to switch from "economy" to "full power".

Redline raising is helpful when your power does not plateau by the time you hit redline. As we can see in the above dynometer graph, the added RPM did in fact allow the engine to continue to produce more power. That said, it looks like the same effect would have been had on the stock cam setup.
 

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Found a used L15a7 longblock a couple weeks back for less than $500 shipped, so I went for it. Installed and tuned with Ktuner at King Motorsports.



Didn't raise the redline for fear of damaging the cat. Should be a lot of power left to pick up once I get rid of the first cat and bump up the rpm.

Edit: had a conversation with the guy that did my tuning and he corrected me on a couple things. Damaging the cat isn't the issue, too much backpressure is. It is making the ECU unhappy and causing the sudden drop in power above 6200 rpm. Has something to do with how the high backpressure affects the cast-in exhaust manifold, cylinder cross contamination, and the way the ECU detects knock. The other limiting factor on raising the rpm is that the injectors are very near max duty cycle, so I'll be needing to upgrade those, too.
 

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Found a used L15a7 longblock a couple weeks back for less than $500 shipped, so I went for it. Installed and tuned with Ktuner at King Motorsports.



Didn't raise the redline for fear of damaging the cat. Should be a lot of power left to pick up once I get rid of the first cat and bump up the rpm.
Wait, um what? What happened to your HPD?
 

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Wait, um what? What happened to your HPD?
Oops, my original post wasn't clear at all :(
It's still there, I just took the cam, rockers, etc from the L15 and had them installed in the LEA with the HPD SC. Essentially the same as the spoon high cam kit but for 1/3 the price. Plus gets you the intake manifold and whatever else you want to pull off the Fit engine. After a bit of measuring we decided against switching intake manifolds as there were no measurable differences.

The dyno sheet is baseline HPD vs custom tune+high cam. They took dyno readings with HPD baseline, ktuner HPD basemap, custom ktuner map, and high cam with custom ktuner map. I posted the original HPD baseline vs the high cam custom sheet because it actually showed the least optimistic gains. I'll repost the graph once I have a chance to scan it, that picture is craptastic.
 

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Oops, my original post wasn't clear at all <img src="http://www.crzforum.com/forum/images/smilies2/sad.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Sad" class="inlineimg" />
It's still there, I just took the cam, rockers, etc from the L15 and had them installed in the LEA with the HPD SC. Essentially the same as the spoon high cam kit but for 1/3 the price. Plus gets you the intake manifold and whatever else you want to pull off the Fit engine.
Ah, that makes more sense. You had me worried for a bit. I suppose if I had paid attention to the thread title I might not have been quite as confused. Also, I'd like to pick your brain someday about cars and King and what they might be able to do for me in the future.
 

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Ah, that makes more sense. You had me worried for a bit. I suppose if I had paid attention to the thread title I might not have been quite as confused. Also, I'd like to pick your brain someday about cars and King and what they might be able to do for me in the future.
Can't guaranty there is much in there to pick, but sure.

Updated my previous post with a hopefully better image, also would have helped if I'd taken a picture of the correct graph. The updated image has both custom ktuner maps with and without the new cam. Pretty much just moves the torque curve up in RPM, which is what a larger cam typically does.
 

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so i take it that using these cams or ge8 cams isn't worth putting on for an N/A build? plan was to have i/h/e, bored tb and ge8 intake manifold along with a ge8 head
 

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so i take it that using these cams or ge8 cams isn't worth putting on for an N/A build? plan was to have i/h/e, bored tb and ge8 intake manifold along with a ge8 head
L15A7 is the engine from the USDM ge8, so what I used is a ge8 cam (and rocker arms and other associated bits that make the cam work).

I don't see any reason there wouldn't be some gain on an N/A build. Possibly more than what I got since the supercharger is helping compensate for how poorly the original cam flows at higher RPM. My peak pressure is 8 psi, so I'd imagine worst case would be 1/3 less improvement from what I show at stock redline, but N/A wouldn't have the fuel or backpressure issues I'm having so increasing the redline and having increased gains should be easier.

"Worth it" is a loaded phrase. If you are doing the wrenching yourself and get a salvaged engine, then it's a pretty cheap way to get 10 or more HP, not to mention the manifold and spare TB you mentioned.

I'm not aware of any advantage in swapping the entire head, the main difference between the two is the cam.
 

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L15A7 is the engine from the USDM ge8, so what I used is a ge8 cam (and rocker arms and other associated bits that make the cam work).

I don't see any reason there wouldn't be some gain on an N/A build. Possibly more than what I got since the supercharger is helping compensate for how poorly the original cam flows at higher RPM. My peak pressure is 8 psi, so I'd imagine worst case would be 1/3 less improvement from what I show at stock redline, but N/A wouldn't have the fuel or backpressure issues I'm having so increasing the redline and having increased gains should be easier.

"Worth it" is a loaded phrase. If you are doing the wrenching yourself and get a salvaged engine, then it's a pretty cheap way to get 10 or more HP, not to mention the manifold and spare TB you mentioned.

I'm not aware of any advantage in swapping the entire head, the main difference between the two is the cam.
got it, i eventually wanted to go the s/c route also. probably hpd since jrsc is discontinued. how's mpg looking for you with everything on? (if you've gotten everything running smooth now)
 

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L15A7 is the engine from the USDM ge8, so what I used is a ge8 cam (and rocker arms and other associated bits that make the cam work).

I don't see any reason there wouldn't be some gain on an N/A build. Possibly more than what I got since the supercharger is helping compensate for how poorly the original cam flows at higher RPM. My peak pressure is 8 psi, so I'd imagine worst case would be 1/3 less improvement from what I show at stock redline, but N/A wouldn't have the fuel or backpressure issues I'm having so increasing the redline and having increased gains should be easier.

"Worth it" is a loaded phrase. If you are doing the wrenching yourself and get a salvaged engine, then it's a pretty cheap way to get 10 or more HP, not to mention the manifold and spare TB you mentioned.

I'm not aware of any advantage in swapping the entire head, the main difference between the two is the cam.

How much has this hit your mpg?
 

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got it, i eventually wanted to go the s/c route also. probably hpd since jrsc is discontinued. how's mpg looking for you with everything on? (if you've gotten everything running smooth now)
How much has this hit your mpg?
Haven't had a chance to run a full tank and check indicated vs odometer/pump, but indicated so far is still mid 30s. And that's driving like that jackass who treats every stop light like a drag race, so I'm not expecting a huge drop off in mpg when driving like a responsible person. Kind of like the SC, it opens up the option to burn more fuel but that doesn't mean it couldn't be driven economically.
 
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