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Side window sometimes not reacting (immediately) to switch inputs

1061 Views 27 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  TNThomas
My driver's side window has been working fine, but this morning I noticed that I didn't react (immediately) to the window switch input. It seemed to wait for a slight moment and then started going up. a few tries later, I had to pull the switch a few times before the window reacted.

I should note that if the window reacts, the window operates smoothly. So I don’t expect the motor or mechanics are broken. Also, all other switches on the driver’s side work, except the one for the left side window.

Does anyone know what could be causing this? Should take the switches out and try to clean them with contact cleaning spray?
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Let’s see how quickly mine will get worse. I now know how to fix it thanks to you! :)
Hopefully you got no more problems. Could've just been a little corrosion build up from condensation and the use of the switch wiped it away.
As we say in Dutch “niet te vroeg juichen”, which means you shouldn’t celebrate/cheer to early. In other words, the issue is back and I will try to fix it tomorrow…
That's a great saying. Like our opera lady proverb but better.
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Koala Yummies, I am trying to fix this at the moment. However, I am stuck at the point where I have to lift the green board (yellow in mine) from the black housing. The window lock/unlcock button prevents the green board from coming loose/out. Did you notice that too? If so, how did you get it out?

EDIT: I finally got it out, but mine looks different from yours, so let’s see… I will update later.
So I just finished the fix and the switch works again. However, I can report after a few weeks if it hasn’t reoccurred.

The guide of Koala Yummies was of great value! So if anyone faces this issue in the future, please use his DIY on the previous page. If you open it up and see a yellow board instead of a green one (possible EU vs. US model), the I can share a few tips as an addition to Koala’s guide.

Below pictures show how the board in my CR-Z looks like. You can see the two grey boxes for the switch mechanics. In red, you see the part that gave me some trouble. On this black ‘stick’, the lock/unlock button for the windows is attached. You have to pull this button off before removing the board from the black plastic housing.

Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Computer hardware Microcontroller

Next up, you can push and pull on the small black taps marked in red. On mine, the driver side one was way easier to move than the passenger side one. The driver sides one was the one causing issues in mine. So easier to slide means less friction, which means less contact, as will be seen later.

Circuit component Passive circuit component Electronic instrument Electronic engineering Audio equipment

Now you have to open up the small grey box on the side that is causing issues on yours. You have to first push the LED a bit to the sight. Then you can open it by releasing the tabs on each side, marked in red. Please note that you can't fully take the top off! On one side (not shown on the picture), it has metal pins along the side. So you can open it and bend the pins a bit to provide access to the slider inside.

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Now get the slider out. This slider has three metal pins on the top and on the bottom. These six pins slide along metal strips in the grey box. I carefully bent these metal pins, as pictured below (sorry for the blurry picture). When putting everything back together, you can now feel that there is more friction when sliding the black tap on the side of the small grey box, thus making better/more contact.

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For now, the issue is fixed. So hopefully it’s permanently fixed. If the issue reoccurs, I will post it here.
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Aside from the mechanicals I would also inspect the solder connections while it's apart, especially the large ones on the connector pins.
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Aside from the mechanicals I would also inspect the solder connections while it's apart, especially the large ones on the connector pins.
I checked the complete unit and everything seemed fine. So hopefully I fixed the issue and it won’t come back. :)
Brief update for people reading this in the future: the issue hasn’t reoccurred (so far). I drove the car for about 3000 kilometers since I fixed it.
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Just did this process on my 2011 EU CRZ - thanks a lot for writing this up. This should be stickied (if not already) as I suspect more and more cars will start to have this issue with use.
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Glad to hear it helped! Mine is still working perfectly since the fix, by the way.
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