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Side window sometimes not reacting (immediately) to switch inputs

1071 Views 27 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  TNThomas
My driver's side window has been working fine, but this morning I noticed that I didn't react (immediately) to the window switch input. It seemed to wait for a slight moment and then started going up. a few tries later, I had to pull the switch a few times before the window reacted.

I should note that if the window reacts, the window operates smoothly. So I don’t expect the motor or mechanics are broken. Also, all other switches on the driver’s side work, except the one for the left side window.

Does anyone know what could be causing this? Should take the switches out and try to clean them with contact cleaning spray?
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Dirty switch or other issue and will maybe get worse. It could be a lot of things others will have better advice up to and including ignore it till it fails.
Dirty switch or other issue and will maybe get worse. It could be a lot of things others will have better advice up to and including ignore it till it fails.
I just changed the text of the original post a bit, because it did get worse during my drive home. The motor and the mechanics seem to operate smoothly (when the switch works). Also, all other switches on the driver’s side work, except the one for the left side window. So I will probably take the switches out and try to clean them with contact cleaning spray.
I've had this problem a couple times. It is the switch yes, not the motor. And yes also the passenger side switch on the driver side door. I had meant to take some photos and do a write up.

I have a spare driver side switch I can show on, hold for photos and descriptions.

Also, in the meantime, do not use any dielectric grease or anything similar. You'll only make it worse and likely ruin the switch assembly.
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I've had this problem a couple times. It is the switch yes, not the motor. And yes also the passenger side switch on the driver side door. I had meant to take some photos and do a write up.

I have a spare driver side switch I can show on, hold for photos and descriptions.

Also, in the meantime, do not use any dielectric grease or anything similar. You'll only make it worse and likely ruin the switch assembly.
I am having the issue with the switch on the driver side for the driver side window. I don’t know if dielectric grease is similar to contact cleaner, but I am happy that I haven’t yet tried to use that to clean the switch contacts.

Thanks in advance for showing how to fix this! Hopefully, it’s an easy DIY. :)

EDIT: I looked it up and dielectric grease functions as an insulator it seems. So indeed not a good idea to use for this issue. However, contact cleaner seems fine, right? My idea was to clean the switch contacts with it, but I will wait for your explanation on the DIY.
I am having the issue with the switch on the driver side for the driver side window. I don’t know if dielectric grease is similar to contact cleaner, but I am happy that I haven’t yet tried to use that to clean the switch contacts.

Thanks in advance for showing how to fix this! Hopefully, it’s an easy DIY. :)

EDIT: I looked it up and dielectric grease functions as an insulator it seems. So indeed not a good idea to use for this issue. However, contact cleaner seems fine, right? My idea was to clean the switch contacts with it, but I will wait for your explanation on the DIY.
Exactly. Many a gearhead think dielectric grease makes better electricity. lol

Ok here we go. Remove switch assembly from door panel, philips, unplug. Then remove the assembly from the door pocket shroud. 4 Philips I believe. Then you're here: reccomended tools from here are tiny thin screwdriver and some toothpicks or similar sharp thin stabbing devices.


To open the switch assembly you need to undo these 8 tabs, four each side.



Slide thin screwdriver in, then slide toothpick in, remove screwdriver and go to each one.


Once you get to about here you can just pull on the grey plastic plug connection and the two halves open


Open sesame


This is the switch part with the little metal rockers inside that make electrical contact.


Carefully bend the LED out of the way


This is the hardest part. There are 3 tabs on each side of this tiny little shit. Be. Patient. Take your damn time. It will still function if you break one but still, take it easy.


Cover off


This little nubbins are just sitting on top, the cover puts the pressure on them. Just pull them out.


Here's the switch rocker spring things that make the electrical connection.


They are also just sitting there. Scoop em out.


Here's one of the two switch sides that makes the contact. See how dirty and burnt/rusty that looks. Clean it. I used a Q-tip with isopropyl alcohol. I'm guessing a little abrasive wouldn't hurt either, like carefully light sanding or a scotch brite/scuff pad or similar to get to fresh metal.


Also clean the metal spring/rocker thing underside. Do this for both the up and down halves of the switch.


If your switches were also sticking, like you pressed it but it's not clicking back on it's own or it gets stuck then find some of the white greasy stuff on the topside of the switch cover (where the LED was sitting) and spread it around as those little nubbin things slide back and forth against the cover.


And some on the nubbins when you put them back in.


I'll come back and proofread this in a bit I gotta go to the bathroom
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THANKS A LOT! This is an amazingly clear explanation. In my case, the driver side is the problem (not sticky, but just not responding). I assume the same way of working applies for that switch, right?

EDIT: Would contact cleaner work as well or should I get isopropyl alcohol?
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THANKS A LOT! This is an amazingly clear explanation. In my case, the driver side is the problem (not sticky, but just not responding). I assume the same way of working applies for that switch, right?

EDIT: Would contact cleaner work as well or should I get isopropyl alcohol?
I don't know what contact cleaner is but if it doesn't leave a residue or cause corrosion then I'd say that should be fine. Like optical cleaner?

I'll pull the driver side switch of too. You're talking about the switch with the auto up/down?

To be crystal clear this assembly is the driver side (master) door switch assembly and the switch that was worked on (black plastic) is for the passenger side window in the driver-side master window/door lock switch. The blue switch next to it is the driver side window switch with the auto up/down. I'll pull it off now and take some more pics.
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Ok the driver side window switch in the driver side door assembly. The blue covered one. This one comes off super easy, just two tabs on either end. Effortless.


It's a more robust switch. I've never had any issues with this one. And mine appears to be loaded up with the white goo. Maybe I should steal some of that and lather up the passenger window switch. Same thing though but these contacts are obviously fine. This is a sliding switch.



When putting the whole assemble back together make sure that the slider for the driver side window is centered so it aligns with the actual button's lever. The other switch doesn't need this but the auto/up down switch is a sliding switch so if you move it from where it was when you opened the assembly then you need to make sure it aligns when snapping the two halves of the assembly back together.
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Thanks again! :)

Contact cleaner is made to clean electric contacts. WD-40 also produces it: WD-40 Contact Cleaner

I am indeed referring to the button with AUTO on it. So the button for the driver side window on the driver side door panel. That’s the one having issues in my CR-Z. Fun fact, my CR-Z has both sides with AUTO on it. So driver and passenger side are automatic.

Nice to know that the AUTO switch is easier to open up. This one doesn’t seem to have the same metal rocker things, like the one for the passenger side window. However, I assume that these smaller rockers can also be easily removed and cleaned.

On Saturday, I will try to fix this. I will report back then.
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Thanks again! :)

Contact cleaner is made to clean electric contacts. WD-40 also produces it: WD-40 Contact Cleaner

I am indeed referring to the button with AUTO on it. So the button for the driver side window on the driver side door panel. That’s the one having issues in my CR-Z. Fun fact, my CR-Z has both sides with AUTO on it. So driver and passenger side are automatic.

Nice to know that the AUTO switch is easier to open up. This one doesn’t seem to have the same metal rocker things, like the one for the passenger side window. However, I assume that these smaller rockers can also be easily removed and cleaned.

On Saturday, I will try to fix this. I will report back then.
Yeah the sliding switches are infinitely easier to open the cover on and clean. No bent spring-like rockers, it just slides back and forth. You can see the contacts for the slider in the first pic with the blue cover off and you're correct on the switch housing it's just flat contacts.

I ended up buying a used switch assembly (sans door shroud) on ebay but cleaning and scuffing the contacts did work. For those that can afford a used assembly I'd go that route to have spare parts and always having one switch in the car but for those who can't as most of the world is god damn suffering right now I wanted to share my experience in dealing with the window switch and a DIY basically free service option.
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Yeah the sliding switches are infinitely easier to open the cover on and clean. No bent spring-like rockers, it just slides back and forth. You can see the contacts for the slider in the first pic with the blue cover off and you're correct on the switch housing it's just flat contacts.

I ended up buying a used switch assembly (sans door shroud) on ebay but cleaning and scuffing the contacts did work. For those that can afford a used assembly I'd go that route to have spare parts and always having one switch in the car but for those who can't as most of the world is god damn suffering right now I wanted to share my experience in dealing with the window switch and a DIY basically free service option.
Thanks for the clarification!

I prefer to fix mine instead of buying a used one that might have/develop the same issue. Moreover, CR-Z parts are quite rare in Europe. Also, I just spent €350 on replacing the IMA fan, so I don’t feel like paying a scrapyard €100-200 for a set of used switches…
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Thanks for the clarification!

I prefer to fix mine instead of buying a used one that might have/develop the same issue. Moreover, CR-Z parts are quite rare in Europe. Also, I just spent €350 on replacing the IMA fan, so I don’t feel like paying a scrapyard €100-200 for a set of used switches…
I felt the same! I was like what if the used one I get is even worse from a super high milage car and they spilled mountain dew and monster energy drinks all over it? But I lucked out and got one that appeared to be in better than mine. Sucks the parts there are so much more expensive, I got the switch for $50. I didn't want to spend that much but I absolutely need the window functionality and it's nice to be able to work on one while the other is in the car.
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Contact cleaner is specific to electrical switches and works better than regular WD-40. There is also another magic product called contact enhancer. I was shown it by a mechanic at the fire department I supported, they used it on the connectors for the airbags in the fire vehicles. I dd not know that WD-40 made a contact cleaning product too.
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I was all prepared to do this fix: bought contact cleaner, freed up time, and read through the explanation of Koala Yummies one more time. Before getting the piece with the switches out of the car, I tested the switches. They worked as they should!

I am so surprised and I don’t know why they work again… Of course, I am prepared if it reoccurs, but I think I will wait with the repair for now. If it works, it works. ;)

I wanted to document my repair with pictures too. Maybe the EU models are slightly different, so it could be handy for some. When the issue comes back and I have to do the repair, I will take pictures and update here.
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Is it possible it is not the switch itself but the connections to it and taking it out and then reconnecting it cleaned off some corrosion?
Is it possible it is not the switch itself but the connections to it and taking it out and then reconnecting it cleaned off some corrosion?
I didn’t even remove the switches from the car. Just tested the switches before removing them and they worked fine. The issue will probably come back though, so then I will do the fix.
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Yeah mine started off intermittently. There'd be a delay from pressing the switch and window moving. But it still worked. Then the delay got worse and worse. Had to press and release then press then it would work. Had to repeatedly press the switch. Then it would just not work until jiggling the switch. Had to hit near the switch and they'd work again. So it starts off like this.
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Yeah mine started off intermittently. There'd be a delay from pressing the switch and window moving. But it still worked. Then the delay got worse and worse. Had to press and release then press then it would work. Had to repeatedly press the switch. Then it would just not work until jiggling the switch. Had to hit near the switch and they'd work again. So it starts off like this.
Let’s see how quickly mine will get worse. I now know how to fix it thanks to you! :)
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As we say in Dutch “niet te vroeg juichen”, which means you shouldn’t celebrate/cheer too early. In other words, the issue is back and I will try to fix it tomorrow…
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