Dirty switch or other issue and will maybe get worse. It could be a lot of things others will have better advice up to and including ignore it till it fails.
I just changed the text of the original post a bit, because it did get worse during my drive home. The motor and the mechanics seem to operate smoothly (when the switch works). Also, all other switches on the driver’s side work, except the one for the left side window. So I will probably take the switches out and try to clean them with contact cleaning spray.Dirty switch or other issue and will maybe get worse. It could be a lot of things others will have better advice up to and including ignore it till it fails.
I am having the issue with the switch on the driver side for the driver side window. I don’t know if dielectric grease is similar to contact cleaner, but I am happy that I haven’t yet tried to use that to clean the switch contacts.I've had this problem a couple times. It is the switch yes, not the motor. And yes also the passenger side switch on the driver side door. I had meant to take some photos and do a write up.
I have a spare driver side switch I can show on, hold for photos and descriptions.
Also, in the meantime, do not use any dielectric grease or anything similar. You'll only make it worse and likely ruin the switch assembly.
Exactly. Many a gearhead think dielectric grease makes better electricity. lolI am having the issue with the switch on the driver side for the driver side window. I don’t know if dielectric grease is similar to contact cleaner, but I am happy that I haven’t yet tried to use that to clean the switch contacts.
Thanks in advance for showing how to fix this! Hopefully, it’s an easy DIY.
EDIT: I looked it up and dielectric grease functions as an insulator it seems. So indeed not a good idea to use for this issue. However, contact cleaner seems fine, right? My idea was to clean the switch contacts with it, but I will wait for your explanation on the DIY.
I don't know what contact cleaner is but if it doesn't leave a residue or cause corrosion then I'd say that should be fine. Like optical cleaner?THANKS A LOT! This is an amazingly clear explanation. In my case, the driver side is the problem (not sticky, but just not responding). I assume the same way of working applies for that switch, right?
EDIT: Would contact cleaner work as well or should I get isopropyl alcohol?
Yeah the sliding switches are infinitely easier to open the cover on and clean. No bent spring-like rockers, it just slides back and forth. You can see the contacts for the slider in the first pic with the blue cover off and you're correct on the switch housing it's just flat contacts.Thanks again!
Contact cleaner is made to clean electric contacts. WD-40 also produces it: WD-40 Contact Cleaner
I am indeed referring to the button with AUTO on it. So the button for the driver side window on the driver side door panel. That’s the one having issues in my CR-Z. Fun fact, my CR-Z has both sides with AUTO on it. So driver and passenger side are automatic.
Nice to know that the AUTO switch is easier to open up. This one doesn’t seem to have the same metal rocker things, like the one for the passenger side window. However, I assume that these smaller rockers can also be easily removed and cleaned.
On Saturday, I will try to fix this. I will report back then.
Thanks for the clarification!Yeah the sliding switches are infinitely easier to open the cover on and clean. No bent spring-like rockers, it just slides back and forth. You can see the contacts for the slider in the first pic with the blue cover off and you're correct on the switch housing it's just flat contacts.
I ended up buying a used switch assembly (sans door shroud) on ebay but cleaning and scuffing the contacts did work. For those that can afford a used assembly I'd go that route to have spare parts and always having one switch in the car but for those who can't as most of the world is god damn suffering right now I wanted to share my experience in dealing with the window switch and a DIY basically free service option.
I felt the same! I was like what if the used one I get is even worse from a super high milage car and they spilled mountain dew and monster energy drinks all over it? But I lucked out and got one that appeared to be in better than mine. Sucks the parts there are so much more expensive, I got the switch for $50. I didn't want to spend that much but I absolutely need the window functionality and it's nice to be able to work on one while the other is in the car.Thanks for the clarification!
I prefer to fix mine instead of buying a used one that might have/develop the same issue. Moreover, CR-Z parts are quite rare in Europe. Also, I just spent €350 on replacing the IMA fan, so I don’t feel like paying a scrapyard €100-200 for a set of used switches…
I didn’t even remove the switches from the car. Just tested the switches before removing them and they worked fine. The issue will probably come back though, so then I will do the fix.Is it possible it is not the switch itself but the connections to it and taking it out and then reconnecting it cleaned off some corrosion?
Let’s see how quickly mine will get worse. I now know how to fix it thanks to you!Yeah mine started off intermittently. There'd be a delay from pressing the switch and window moving. But it still worked. Then the delay got worse and worse. Had to press and release then press then it would work. Had to repeatedly press the switch. Then it would just not work until jiggling the switch. Had to hit near the switch and they'd work again. So it starts off like this.