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Discussion Starter #1
Currently, I have a 2011 CR-Z with about 100.000 km (62.000 miles) on it, since about 4-5 months. It has been a great car so far!

However, I rather would have bought the facelifted model (2013+). Unfortunately, the facelifted model is extremely rare in Europe, so I settled for a 2011 model. Now, there is a facelifted 2013 model for sale in my area with just 60.000 km (37.000 miles) on it. It’s also a GT trim (the top level trim in Europe), just like my current CR-Z. All in all, I would have to spend about €2.500 ($3.000) to trade in mine for that newer one. I can easily spend the money, but it’s still a lot of money of course...

So would you say it’s worth it? I am just looking for some opinions on the facelifted vs. pre-facelifted model, since I have never seen/driven the facelifted model.
 

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Very personal choice. See if the numbers make sense and if they do and it checks out why not. @litz bought a CVT but really wanted an MT and he now has both we have had other members that have owned more than one including one member that sold a 2016 but kept his 2011. again personal choices and if the new one has any issues you can walk away and or bargain harder because you have a working car . That gives you the upper hand.
 

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Just sit in it, then test drive it. Compare the differences, and I figure something will tell you that the "upgrade" is worth the price (or not.) The €2.500 extra for the new one may actually be worth it to you, especially if you want to keep the car for a really long time, and this sets back the clock on some maintenance and maybe even some of the rock chips and door dings that the old one has, but the new one doesn't. I figure the upgraded IMA battery is a plus, but if it ever comes time for a replacement IMA battery, your options are limited and a bit more expensive for the Lithium Ion than the NiCad. All in all, just go by the "wow" factor you feel; If you don't get a big enough wow in the facelifted model, keep the old. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies! I will contact the Honda dealership and see what I can arrange. COVID-19 makes it hard...

I just spent almost €1000 ($1200) on my CR-Z to make it future proof by doing a lot of preventive maintenance. So the ‘wow’ has to be big to justify the upgrade, I guess. However, I do have to note that I imported the car from Germany, where car prizes are lower. So I wouldn’t lose any money when selling mine (even including the €1000).

I will let you know what I end up doing. Thanks again for sharing your opinions!
 

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You are right, in Europe the facelift models are extremely rare. I realy want the 2016 CR-Z and i've started to raise money for one, but i could only find some for sale in the USA. I plan to keep a CR-Z for a very long time because i like it and i'm sad because they discontinued the model so thats my reason. The boys are right, see if it's worth it for you. It is for me :D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update: the Honde dealership hasn’t accepted my offer of €2.500 ($3.000) + my current CR-Z. They want €3.500 ($4.200) + my current CR-Z and they don’t want to negotiate. So that makes it an even harder choice...

Furthermore, the car has been wrapped when it was delivered 7 years ago and it’s still on the car. I am not sure what removing this wrap would do to the paint. Does anyone know this?
 

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If they will not negotiate I would lose interest and look elsewhere . Always negotiate the price without trade-in of current car then at the end of the buy transaction negotiate the trade in if they make a good offer then trade in or sell somewhere else

Three totally separate transactions . Third would be financing if you need it.

1 Total Price of car (not what monthly payments will cost)
2 Financing
3 Trade in.

Always in this order ,never any other order.

See my other car buying Postings for more advice to prevent being ripped off.

Update: the Honde dealership hasn’t accepted my offer of €2.500 ($3.000) + my current CR-Z. They want €3.500 ($4.200) + my current CR-Z and they don’t want to negotiate. So that makes it an even harder choice...

Furthermore, the car has been wrapped when it was delivered 7 years ago and it’s still on the car. I am not sure what removing this wrap would do to the paint. Does anyone know this?
 

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The 2016 were not available in EU. If I could swap mine for a 2016 then I would consider this - the interior is much nicer, front bumper is beautiful and the rear bumper... let's forget about it, there's plenty of used rear bumpers from ZF1 available on the market for cheap.
 

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I don't think it'll drive too differently. There's the S+ button which is fun, but it's not like you're missing out on much there. If I were in your shoes, the biggest reason to upgrade would be the lithium battery, updated styling and extra features. the Ni-MH batteries suffer from high self-discharge, so in pre 2013 models, regular driving is a must. Not so much on the lithium based batteries which have very low self discharge.

I much prefer the styling of the 2013+ models. The round fog lights, bigger fog light shroud, shorter grille with the little cut at the bottom of the bumper, and, most importantly for me, the removal of the louver thingies on the grille make a huge difference. As for interior design, I think they changed it a bit, but I'm not sure there.

As for the trim levels, I'm not sure what they offer over there, but I bought the base model in the U.S, and I kinda wish I got the EX model instead. It has better audio, heated mirrors, ambient lighting, a leather steering wheel, and some other stuff I can't remember at the moment.

Plus, it has lower mileage. I think it'd be worth it.
 
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If I were in your shoes, the biggest reason to upgrade would be the lithium battery, updated styling and extra features. the Ni-MH batteries suffer from high self-discharge, so in pre 2013 models, regular driving is a must. Not so much on the lithium based batteries which have very low self discharge.
I disagree the later ones have the same sticker under the hood about driving 30 minutes a month and the same warnings in the owners manual.
 

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I disagree the later ones have the same sticker under the hood about driving 30 minutes a month and the same warnings in the owners manual.
Yeah, I've seen it on my 2014 model too. Thing is, Ni-MH batteries have, as far as I know, the worst self discharge rates of all the common rechargeable batteries. It can be as high as losing 1% charge per day, as well as losing up to 20% charge in the first 24 hours after being recharged. Seeing that the battery in the CR-Z sits between 50-70% charge, losing up to 30% in a month can be a big deal. in 2 months, you could run the battery completely flat if it's not in perfect shape and it more discharged than usual. The IPU and BMS would just add to this drain.

On the other hand, Lithium batteries have some of the lowest self-discharge rates of the common rechargeable batteries. They lose about 5% in the first 24 hours after being recharged, and lose between 1-3% per month, which is up to 10 times less than Ni-MH. Of course, the IPU and BMS still drain some power, which is likely why this warning is there, but in general, self discharge isn't an issue with lithium batteries.

Either way, letting a car sit, Hybrid or not, is not a great idea. But if the car does spend lots of time parked, a lithium battery is far less of a concern than a Ni-MH one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you all for the help! Unfortunately, the dealership didn’t want to lower the price... So I had to pay €3.500 ($4.200) on top of my CR-Z. Furthermore, I would have to spend €850 ($1.000) to let a company remove the wrap, I had to replace the tires, and it was already too late for large maintenance.

I just spent almost €1.000 ($1.200) on preventive maintenance of my CR-Z, and the tires and brakes are still as good as new. So it just doesn’t make sense for the price the dealership wants.
 
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