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Shift’s Turbo CRZ

13K views 42 replies 11 participants last post by  Madhatter 
#1 · (Edited)
2013 base model in CBP

-EX leather wrapped steering wheel
-EX Red trimmed floor mats
-2017 Honda CTR shift knob with Acuity shift boot ring kit
-eBay 6000k LED low beams
-Full interior and license plate light swap to cool white LED’s
-K&N drop in air filter
-20mm spacers (rear only)
-Freshly cut/polished with 6 month silica ceramic coating (done 12/9/19)

Turbo kit materials acquired thus far..

-eBay TD04-15g turbo w/ internal wastegate
-Ktuner reflash unit
-eBay RSX intercooler
-eBay 2.5” DIY aluminum piping kit w/ couplers and clamps
-Spectre weld on MAF adapter plate
-OEM Honda catalytic converter gasket to go between turbo and head
-eBay 2.5” DIY stainless steel piping kit for exhaust
-eBay 2.5 inch V band kits
-eBay 2.5” intermediate resonator/muffler
-ebay 2.5” inlet/3” outlet dual tip muffler
-14x1.5 thread to nipple fittings (for turbo coolant hoses)
-Turbo monkey 4AN to 12x1.5 turbo oil feed adapter w/restrictor
-eBay oil feed and drain line kit
-Russell 8AN to 14x1.5 adapter for oil drain hose to oil pan
-eBay HKS SSQV blow off valve kit
-eBay Stainless steel 02 sensor bung
-Miscellaneous piping couplers to go from turbo inlet/outlet/throttle body (different brands)
-1320 cone air filter
TD04 downpipe flange with V-band for Subaru (too big, doesn’t fit, using as reference for new flange)

Still need

-RDX injectors
 

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#3 ·
Good job homie I got the same turbo.
Notice how the turbo flange isn't square

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#4 ·
Good job homie I got the same turbo.
Notice how the turbo flange isn't square

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It’s ideal since there aren’t any “manifolds” available for our cars. Not that I could find anyway. Turbo will bolt directly to the head, I already templated a factory cat gasket to confirm.

Only downside was I also could not find any downpipe flange to fit this turbo, I ordered a TD04 flange and it’s way too big, checked measurements against T3/T4/T25 and they were all a no go. so they used an odd variant, I made a template and am either going to handmake one or have it machined.
 

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#9 ·
Looks like your going the same route I went. Read about my turbo build here, so far so good with my turbo set up, over 2000 miles on it. Let me know if I can help you answer some questions.

Otherwise good luck, by the way getting the oil pan off to aluminum weld the oil return line was tough for me.

 
#11 · (Edited)
Looks like your going the same route I went. Read about my turbo build here, so far so good with my turbo set up, over 2000 miles on it. Let me know if I can help you answer some questions.

Otherwise good luck, by the way getting the oil pan off to aluminum weld the oil return line was tough for me.

Funny you mention that, I was actually looking at your build thread last night. I already dreaded the idea of tapping the pan before I came across your thread, but it definitely solidified that fear lol.
It looked like a real pain in the ass.

I had a S2000 come into the shop with this setup pictured. A 14x1.5 adapter to the drain plug threads.

I’m going to try this method of going right to the oil drain on the pan and see how it fares.

Your build looks good, glad it’s running well and interested to see how you do on the dyno with final tune.
 

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#10 ·
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#12 · (Edited)
something irks me about that manifold. I saw the problems you guys had making it fit and it just made me like it less lol. And I’m also not a fan of how it sits so deep in the bay.
I’ve been asking myself often what’s the point, when you see what Greddy did (pictured) it makes me realize that all they did was make an adapter to go from the head to the turbo.
But the thing with this turbo is that it’s primary flange matches the head perfectly. (pictured)

So I begin to believe with this configuration, this turbo doesn’t need a manifold, the head itself is already designed as the exhaust manifold.

Actually, I’d almost say that no engine configuration that uses the cylinder head as the exhaust manifold, and only has a single exhaust exit port, would need a manifold.

The reason any manifold exists, is to collect from individual exhaust ports and then flow into one path, or pipe.

So, since the engine does that for us, and even in stock configuration the catalytic converter is bolted up right to head... see where I’m going with this?

Now if there is a concern of fitment or a space limitation in a situation like this, then you would want to make a manifold in order to address that.

Now to be clear, any other turbo would likely require something like a adapter or manifold between the head and turbo. Like Formula’s turbo build, since his inlet flange is T4 style I believe? But he even didn’t necessarily need a “manifold” only something to bridge between the turbo and the one exhaust port, if that makes sense.

That’s why I bring up Greddy’s kit again, that cast iron “manifold” they made is not actually that, but an adapter to go from the exhaust port flange on the head to the turbo. Now that brings up a matter of strength, which is why I believe they used cast iron in that application.
There would be a fair amount of stress at that connection due to weight and heat cycles, I am unsure weather a simple stainless part would be up to the task, I think the possibility of cracking welds over time exists there.

But, for you and I Snoop, since this particular funky eBay turbo has a perfectly designed inlet flange to fit to the head, I can’t get think of a good reason why we need to go through all that trouble to fit a manifold.

I’d almost be worries about heat soak, but this turbo we chose is also water cooled, so is it really a concern? Enough clearance from the block for the water line fittings is a concern, but I have a feeling even with nipple style fittings, it will be okay.

I’d be fairly bold and confident to say that you don’t need that manifold.

It would make your general install easier as you’ll have way more clearance for your downpipe. If nipple hose fittings don’t work or clear, the banjo bolt option would certainly fix that issue.

I think we are caught up in, how do I say it, old traditions?
Since every other engine known to has to have a turbo manifold, we gotta have one too? But they need it because they need to connect all those individual cylinders, we don’t.

I’m not sure how the proximity of the inlet to the exhaust port would affect it, or how direct exhaust pulses would hit it vs. if there was a type of manifold in between. If anyone has any information conflicting with my theory here I’d love to get some discussion.
 

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#14 ·
Wow that’s awesome to hear! I know the tune is going to be the most important factor above all else, assuming everything functions properly when I get it running.
How much boost and hp do you make on your setup? It seems that 200hp is the general consensus but I did see “Aceryl” made 230 on his final tune before he sold his Z.
 
#16 ·
So I spent a good part of yesterday cleaning these up and mounting and balancing. God those things were filthy!

got em on and they look awesome! They’re a +32 offset so the fronts are out just a smidge more than I’d prefer but that’s fine. I didn’t like the way the rears sat with the 1” spacers so I took them off. Will probably go with a pair of 10mm’s back there.

As far as the turbo I have not had enough time to test fit it to the car yet. I’m confident clearances are good because I did some rough measurements but I need that final reassurance.

Also still need to get my downpipe flange made up. A lot of my friends and myself have been busy with the holidays so I haven’t had an opportunity to get on that either.

I did however test fit a spare oil pressure sensor to the T fitting for the oil feed, threads perfect and the line seems to be long enough to be properly routed, so that’s good.

as soon as I get time to test fit I’ll be sure to update with more pictures.
 

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#17 ·
Needs moar low! :)
...but really, looks like a full day's work just cleaning them up. Most people hate white wheels because they get dirty, but my take is that they show dirt better, so you clean them more often. Mine get taken off sometimes, just so I can clean/wax the inner hubs. You're looking good now!
 
#18 ·
I appreciate the compliments Litz!

Definitely needs moar low! That is in future works as well!

Yeah I think the white wheels will keep me honest as to how wheel I clean the car compared to if I had another color like black or bronze, and I think white wheels look so good on our Z’s.

I wasn’t expecting to come across these at all honestly since both the Kosei’s and the Buddy Clubs seem to be so rare, I was doing a lot of browsing and settling on a set of bronze Konig Lockouts, but I put some posts out to a couple local wheel trader pages and I jumped on the chance.

The right rear has some especially deteriorated crevices near the spokes, I think before the year is over I’ll look into stripping and re-powder coating the white, along with new decals if I can find them.
 
#19 ·
Back with a small update..
been really busy with work and all that.

did a couple things since, picked up a front lip and finally got around to test fitting.

turbo fits well, all the lines should clear no problem. The real challenge seems to lie in the intake piping design, not a lot of room with how it sits on the passenger side. I think I may try to make up a little jig, take some measurements, and see what I come up with.
 

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#21 ·
You

No offense taken, because I agree. It’s really not difficult to run the intercooler piping in this configuration, but the intake piping and MAF design/placement is something I’m very not happy with

so below is a pictureI came across, which is how I’ll be routing the piping. And that works with how it sits now, but I’m also planning on modifying the flange so I can flip the turbo 180 degrees, which will fix the concern of that intake placement.
I reclocked the compressor housing to see if it will work this way and it should perfectly. I still need to reclock the center cartridge 180 degrees to get the drain port in the right orientation.
 

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#23 ·
Personally, I would use different turbo, maybe a Subaru one, since I don't trust eBay Twisty Boiz, they like to blow quick.
Definitely wanna see end result, and if turbo holds up!
Yeah, I’ve been feeling all kinds of up and down on this eBay turbo as well, I’ve never used one, and it’s always mixed reviews, so I’m feeling it’s a 50/50 chance. I feel like I’ve done too much R&D on this to back out now. But I’ve been eye’ing some Precision models I’ll likely choose to upgrade too in the future.
ive been trying to think of some additional countermeasures to install to the charge piping in case it all turns to shrapnel.
And I’ve also planning carefully to retain all stock components so that it can be quickly reverted to stock if it goes south as well.

I hear you man, honestly the turbo is the sketchiest component in the build, I’m hoping that using a blow off valve and minimizing compressor surge will maximize the life of this unit, until I can get a hold of a precision unit and redesign the system to make it fit.
 
#29 ·
lol I’m hoping so man! Really wanting 200-210hp so fingers crossed. Have you been on they dyno? What are you making?


There is alot of theorizing in this thread. And thats fine..

But when is there going to be more pics and work.

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Lol measure twice, or 3 times, cut once my friend.
But I have been slacking a bit. I haven’t been able to source a reliable welder.
I’m going to the machine shop this week to get the downpipe flange made up, and then I’ll be cutting and mocking the intercooler piping and some of the exhaust here very soon. I work in a auto repair shop 10-11 hours a day, and I kinda love my bed, been hard to get motivated to go rack the car in the shop to get things done. But I think you sent the kick in the ass I need.
 
#28 ·
There is alot of theorizing in this thread. And thats fine..

But when is there going to be more pics and work.

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#31 ·
Update :

Dropped my turbo off with a local machine shop yesterday to get the downpipe flange made, super nice guy, said he’d be able to make it up really nice with a perfect match. Should be done by the end of next week.

also spent some time slotting the holes out in the main flange so I can flip the turbo around and have it fit how I like. With good fasteners the bigger diameter shouldn’t give me a problem but once I get with my welder I’m going to see if he can fill the unneeded space with weld.
Pictures will come as soon as I get the finished flange!
 
#32 ·
Hey guys, another quick update.
I assume the flange is making progress, haven’t received an update call from him though.

but I did order some coilovers, just some Godspeeds, their quality has improved a lot over the the years so I think they’ll work well.


Also received some customer center caps for the buddy clubs, kind of a long story, but I meant to order blank caps, but the seller sent me some with the “RAYS” logo. I talked with him through email and found out he could make any design I want. So he’s already made and sent out some black, smooth finish caps with a white Honda logo. Should be getting them soon, but I have some pics of what I got and the things he can make. I assume he 3D printing them. Really nice guy and they’re good quality.

Let me know if I shouldnt advertise, but I think he deserves some business.
 

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#34 ·
Hello, let me posted from Japan.

Probably the same turbo I installed.
I purchased this on ebay and temporarily attached it to the engine and the angle was still different.
I added a bolt hole to the flange and turned it 180 degrees to optimize the intake direction.
The down pipe was made at home and attached to the car as it was.
No intercooler is installed.
The description of the wastegate actuator is 5 psi, but the display on HONDATA is 10 psi, so it seems that the boost is actually large.
Since the downpipe is as thin as Φ50, there are occasional cases where the exhaust temperature exceeds 900 ° C, so if I can make time, I will try to make it again.

I ran about 1500km now.

This turbine was written as TD04. Is it OK to purchase a rebuild kit from TD04?
I feel the turbine core is similar to garrett's T25.

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#36 ·
Very


Pretty nice setup man, interesting that you retained many of the stock components, make it looks very sleeper-like.
As far as TD04 rebuild kits, I’m unsure, best bet would to buy the cheapest kit you can find just so you can reference it. I know a TD04 downpipe flange doesn’t work, so everything is certainly odd.
You should be able to adjust the arm at the wastegate actuator to change the boost level, I tested adjustments using a vacuum/pressure pump and was able to adjust the arm and modify the pressure required to completely open the wastegate.
 
#35 ·
Good job homie.
We are literally in the same stage. Mine is mounted also.

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#37 ·
Have some updates of my own, received the finished flange, very happy with it. Pictures attached, also received my coilovers yesterday. Hopefully will make it to the shop Friday morning to get those fitted and hopefully make some progress on cutting and mocking these pipes and components.
 

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#38 · (Edited)
The flanges in itself end up being so tricky in the end that's what I found out.. as nothing aligns up.
And we have to make it work.

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#39 ·
Been a while but I have a couple updates.

got the coilovers installed, super happy with them, honestly surprised at the quality considering the low cost, dampers are dialed to about 6 out of 16 and it rides just like stock.

spent some time yesterday working on it to, got the intercooler mounted, and the top support frame removed and notched so I can sent a pipe through.
Removed the grille and hit the bumper beam with some flat paint, digging the look, the rubber/plastic air diverter is something I wanted to keep but the intercooler pushes against it, so will likely remove.
Progress! Slowly but surely! More updates soon!
 

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