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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2013 base model in CBP

-EX leather wrapped steering wheel
-EX Red trimmed floor mats
-2017 Honda CTR shift knob with Acuity shift boot ring kit
-eBay 6000k LED low beams
-Full interior and license plate light swap to cool white LED’s
-K&N drop in air filter
-20mm spacers (rear only)
-Freshly cut/polished with 6 month silica ceramic coating (done 12/9/19)

Turbo kit materials acquired thus far..

-eBay TD04-15g turbo w/ internal wastegate
-Ktuner reflash unit
-eBay RSX intercooler
-eBay 2.5” DIY aluminum piping kit w/ couplers and clamps
-Spectre weld on MAF adapter plate
-OEM Honda catalytic converter gasket to go between turbo and head
-eBay 2.5” DIY stainless steel piping kit for exhaust
-eBay 2.5 inch V band kits
-eBay 2.5” intermediate resonator/muffler
-ebay 2.5” inlet/3” outlet dual tip muffler
-14x1.5 thread to nipple fittings (for turbo coolant hoses)
-Turbo monkey 4AN to 12x1.5 turbo oil feed adapter w/restrictor
-eBay oil feed and drain line kit
-Russell 8AN to 14x1.5 adapter for oil drain hose to oil pan
-eBay HKS SSQV blow off valve kit
-eBay Stainless steel 02 sensor bung
-Miscellaneous piping couplers to go from turbo inlet/outlet/throttle body (different brands)
-1320 cone air filter
TD04 downpipe flange with V-band for Subaru (too big, doesn’t fit, using as reference for new flange)

Still need

-RDX injectors
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I have a couple more pictures but this is the jist of it.

It’s late but I’ll came back with more
 

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Good job homie I got the same turbo.
Notice how the turbo flange isn't square

Sent from Samsung S10+
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good job homie I got the same turbo.
Notice how the turbo flange isn't square

Sent from Samsung S10+
It’s ideal since there aren’t any “manifolds” available for our cars. Not that I could find anyway. Turbo will bolt directly to the head, I already templated a factory cat gasket to confirm.

Only downside was I also could not find any downpipe flange to fit this turbo, I ordered a TD04 flange and it’s way too big, checked measurements against T3/T4/T25 and they were all a no go. so they used an odd variant, I made a template and am either going to handmake one or have it machined.
 

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It’s ideal since there aren’t any “manifolds” available for our cars. Not that I could find anyway. Turbo will bolt directly to the head, I already templated a factory cat gasket to confirm.

Only downside was I also could not find any downpipe flange to fit this turbo, I ordered a TD04 flange and it’s way too big, checked measurements against T3/T4/T25 and they were all a no go. so they used an odd variant, I made a template and am either going to handmake one or have it machined.
U said it both down pipe n turbo manifold need to be fabricated I'm going thru that process now .

Sent from Samsung S10+
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
U said it both down pipe n turbo manifold need to be fabricated I'm going thru that process now .

Sent from Samsung S10+
The Greddy kit used a small cast iron “manifold”, basically looks like a 2 inch adapter/spacer lol. I’m going to try my luck without the manifold and see how it goes with it bolted right to the exhaust flange on the head.
Only concerns I can think of is heat dissipation, clearance of the coolant fittings, and maybe a difference in a modulation of exhaust pulses.
I’m waiting on an adapter for the oil feed line and then I’m going to do a mock up with all the oil and coolant fittings and lines to see how it sits.
The oil feed port on the turbo is a 12x1.5 and the coolant ports at 14x1.5 if you didn’t already know.

Interested to see how you do the manifold, if anything I’d assume to just build something out of stainless, is that your plan?
 

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Looks like your going the same route I went. Read about my turbo build here, so far so good with my turbo set up, over 2000 miles on it. Let me know if I can help you answer some questions.

Otherwise good luck, by the way getting the oil pan off to aluminum weld the oil return line was tough for me.

 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Looks like your going the same route I went. Read about my turbo build here, so far so good with my turbo set up, over 2000 miles on it. Let me know if I can help you answer some questions.

Otherwise good luck, by the way getting the oil pan off to aluminum weld the oil return line was tough for me.

Funny you mention that, I was actually looking at your build thread last night. I already dreaded the idea of tapping the pan before I came across your thread, but it definitely solidified that fear lol.
It looked like a real pain in the ass.

I had a S2000 come into the shop with this setup pictured. A 14x1.5 adapter to the drain plug threads.

I’m going to try this method of going right to the oil drain on the pan and see how it fares.

Your build looks good, glad it’s running well and interested to see how you do on the dyno with final tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Here u go friend
I like how all the turbo guys come n support one another.


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something irks me about that manifold. I saw the problems you guys had making it fit and it just made me like it less lol. And I’m also not a fan of how it sits so deep in the bay.
I’ve been asking myself often what’s the point, when you see what Greddy did (pictured) it makes me realize that all they did was make an adapter to go from the head to the turbo.
But the thing with this turbo is that it’s primary flange matches the head perfectly. (pictured)

So I begin to believe with this configuration, this turbo doesn’t need a manifold, the head itself is already designed as the exhaust manifold.

Actually, I’d almost say that no engine configuration that uses the cylinder head as the exhaust manifold, and only has a single exhaust exit port, would need a manifold.

The reason any manifold exists, is to collect from individual exhaust ports and then flow into one path, or pipe.

So, since the engine does that for us, and even in stock configuration the catalytic converter is bolted up right to head... see where I’m going with this?

Now if there is a concern of fitment or a space limitation in a situation like this, then you would want to make a manifold in order to address that.

Now to be clear, any other turbo would likely require something like a adapter or manifold between the head and turbo. Like Formula’s turbo build, since his inlet flange is T4 style I believe? But he even didn’t necessarily need a “manifold” only something to bridge between the turbo and the one exhaust port, if that makes sense.

That’s why I bring up Greddy’s kit again, that cast iron “manifold” they made is not actually that, but an adapter to go from the exhaust port flange on the head to the turbo. Now that brings up a matter of strength, which is why I believe they used cast iron in that application.
There would be a fair amount of stress at that connection due to weight and heat cycles, I am unsure weather a simple stainless part would be up to the task, I think the possibility of cracking welds over time exists there.

But, for you and I Snoop, since this particular funky eBay turbo has a perfectly designed inlet flange to fit to the head, I can’t get think of a good reason why we need to go through all that trouble to fit a manifold.

I’d almost be worries about heat soak, but this turbo we chose is also water cooled, so is it really a concern? Enough clearance from the block for the water line fittings is a concern, but I have a feeling even with nipple style fittings, it will be okay.

I’d be fairly bold and confident to say that you don’t need that manifold.

It would make your general install easier as you’ll have way more clearance for your downpipe. If nipple hose fittings don’t work or clear, the banjo bolt option would certainly fix that issue.

I think we are caught up in, how do I say it, old traditions?
Since every other engine known to has to have a turbo manifold, we gotta have one too? But they need it because they need to connect all those individual cylinders, we don’t.

I’m not sure how the proximity of the inlet to the exhaust port would affect it, or how direct exhaust pulses would hit it vs. if there was a type of manifold in between. If anyone has any information conflicting with my theory here I’d love to get some discussion.
 

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2013 base model in CBP

-EX leather wrapped steering wheel
-EX Red trimmed floor mats
-2017 Honda CTR shift knob with Acuity shift boot ring kit
-eBay 6000k LED low beams
-Full interior and license plate light swap to cool white LED’s
-K&N drop in air filter
-20mm spacers (rear only)
-Freshly cut/polished with 6 month silica ceramic coating (done 12/9/19)

Turbo kit materials acquired thus far..

-eBay TD04-15g turbo w/ internal wastegate
-Ktuner reflash unit
-eBay RSX intercooler
-eBay 2.5” DIY aluminum piping kit w/ couplers and clamps
-Spectre weld on MAF adapter plate
-OEM Honda catalytic converter gasket to go between turbo and head
-eBay 2.5” DIY stainless steel piping kit for exhaust
-eBay 2.5 inch V band kits
-eBay 2.5” intermediate resonator/muffler
-ebay 2.5” inlet/3” outlet dual tip muffler
-14x1.5 thread to nipple fittings (for turbo coolant hoses)
-Turbo monkey 4AN to 12x1.5 turbo oil feed adapter w/restrictor
-eBay oil feed and drain line kit
-Russell 8AN to 14x1.5 adapter for oil drain hose to oil pan
-eBay HKS SSQV blow off valve kit
-eBay Stainless steel 02 sensor bung
-Miscellaneous piping couplers to go from turbo inlet/outlet/throttle body (different brands)
-1320 cone air filter
TD04 downpipe flange with V-band for Subaru (too big, doesn’t fit, using as reference for new flange)

Still need

-RDX injectors
I have been running on boost for almost 6 years by now. So far everything is fine. Run smoothly just like a factory car. Sure u will enjoy it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have been running on boost for almost 6 years by now. So far everything is fine. Run smoothly just like a factory car. Sure u will enjoy it.
Wow that’s awesome to hear! I know the tune is going to be the most important factor above all else, assuming everything functions properly when I get it running.
How much boost and hp do you make on your setup? It seems that 200hp is the general consensus but I did see “Aceryl” made 230 on his final tune before he sold his Z.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I spent a good part of yesterday cleaning these up and mounting and balancing. God those things were filthy!

got em on and they look awesome! They’re a +32 offset so the fronts are out just a smidge more than I’d prefer but that’s fine. I didn’t like the way the rears sat with the 1” spacers so I took them off. Will probably go with a pair of 10mm’s back there.

As far as the turbo I have not had enough time to test fit it to the car yet. I’m confident clearances are good because I did some rough measurements but I need that final reassurance.

Also still need to get my downpipe flange made up. A lot of my friends and myself have been busy with the holidays so I haven’t had an opportunity to get on that either.

I did however test fit a spare oil pressure sensor to the T fitting for the oil feed, threads perfect and the line seems to be long enough to be properly routed, so that’s good.

as soon as I get time to test fit I’ll be sure to update with more pictures.
 

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Needs moar low! :)
...but really, looks like a full day's work just cleaning them up. Most people hate white wheels because they get dirty, but my take is that they show dirt better, so you clean them more often. Mine get taken off sometimes, just so I can clean/wax the inner hubs. You're looking good now!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Needs moar low! :)
...but really, looks like a full day's work just cleaning them up. Most people hate white wheels because they get dirty, but my take is that they show dirt better, so you clean them more often. Mine get taken off sometimes, just so I can clean/wax the inner hubs. You're looking good now!
I appreciate the compliments Litz!

Definitely needs moar low! That is in future works as well!

Yeah I think the white wheels will keep me honest as to how wheel I clean the car compared to if I had another color like black or bronze, and I think white wheels look so good on our Z’s.

I wasn’t expecting to come across these at all honestly since both the Kosei’s and the Buddy Clubs seem to be so rare, I was doing a lot of browsing and settling on a set of bronze Konig Lockouts, but I put some posts out to a couple local wheel trader pages and I jumped on the chance.

The right rear has some especially deteriorated crevices near the spokes, I think before the year is over I’ll look into stripping and re-powder coating the white, along with new decals if I can find them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Back with a small update..
been really busy with work and all that.

did a couple things since, picked up a front lip and finally got around to test fitting.

turbo fits well, all the lines should clear no problem. The real challenge seems to lie in the intake piping design, not a lot of room with how it sits on the passenger side. I think I may try to make up a little jig, take some measurements, and see what I come up with.
 

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Just wondering, are you running top intercooler? Coz the other way round compressor will give you more spaces for the intake and routing to frontal intercooler.

It's just a piece of my opinion, no offences..
 
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