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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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Latest dyno chart**

Hi I'm Tim, bought my Z 1+ years back. So here's my build:

Built by previous owner:

Engine:
1. Garrett GT25 Turbo
2. Intercooler & pipings - generic
3. Tuned with Hondata Flashpro

Chassis:
1. Front Strut Bar
2. Rear Trick Bar (4 pts)
3. Zerone suspension kit

Wheels:
1. Rotiform Front 225/45/17 & Rear 215/45/17
2. Wilwood front brake set.

Results: 24.7kg/m - 4,700RPM / 191HP - 6,200RPM ( 0.70 bar )
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Current added on Mods:

Engine:
1. Ogura clutch.
2. Golden Eagle Intake Manifold.
3. SARD radiator.
4. Re-tuned

Other Parts:
1. Hybrid Racing Short Shifter.

Results: 26.34Kg/m - 4,600RPM / 198HP - 6,000RPM ( 0.72 bar)
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So, that's my simple introduction and built list. Future mod? Probably, going for lightweight build or bigger turbo on the hybrid motor. I'm enjoying the current power & fuel consumption. Most importantly, hybrid motor gives nearly 50:50 weight ratio chassis.
 

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More pics of the setup please

Sent from Samsung S10+
 
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for curious
24.7kg/m = 242N*m = 179Ib/ft
26.3kg/m = 257N*m = 190Ib/ft

Lovely built motor that mate! Love that Intake manifold! 198BHP /242N*m is a good power that! Is that engine only? Or is it with Hybrid included?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
for curious
24.7kg/m = 242N*m = 179Ib/ft
26.3kg/m = 257N*m = 190Ib/ft

Lovely built motor that mate! Love that Intake manifold! 198BHP /242N*m is a good power that! Is that engine only? Or is it with Hybrid included?
Sorry, hasn't follow up my thread recently.

Yes, it's stock engine with the hybrid motor. Garrett is pretty consistent turbo. Ace's has the same turbo as mine, results are pretty similar when he's still on 200HP
 

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What have you got planned. ?!? Anything lately ?

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

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2012 Sport / manual / NSBP
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Did you turn off the auto-stop feature? if not, are you not afraid of overheating turbo when the engine stops after hard driving? I'm currently under impression that turbo doesn't work well with CRZ because of that, that's why all the available kits are superchargers not turbo. I'm currently leaning towards custom Eaton M62 supercharger + intercooler build and turning it on only in sport mode. This supercharger should easily achieve 0.7bar of boost or even more, ofc total horsepower will be lower due to supercharger being powered by the engine, but I can keep the auto-stop.

Also, did the clutch slip after the first tuning?
Did it overheat before upgrading the radiator?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What have you got planned. ?!? Anything lately ?
Currently saving up for k swap in case it blew up and building carbon fiber parts myself to reduce more weight. Did the shark fin and side mirror's cover.

I bought gold reflect carbon for my front hood. Will start moulding it probably end of this month.

Did you turn off the auto-stop feature? if not, are you not afraid of overheating turbo when the engine stops after hard driving? I'm currently under impression that turbo doesn't work well with CRZ because of that, that's why all the available kits are superchargers not turbo. I'm currently leaning towards custom Eaton M62 supercharger + intercooler build and turning it on only in sport mode. This supercharger should easily achieve 0.7bar of boost or even more, ofc total horsepower will be lower due to supercharger being powered by the engine, but I can keep the auto-stop.

Also, did the clutch slip after the first tuning?
Did it overheat before upgrading the radiator?
On normal drive below 3,000rpm or turbo spools, everything is just fine with Auto-stop, even, the water temp will not go beyond 190°F. However, if you're doing hard pulls or attack, it's better to keep the AC run for a lower water temp. There is no particular type of force induction suitable for our Z's, it's just the matter of preferences.

The OE clutch will definitely slip on a forced induction setup. Thankfully, ORC metal series can withstand the current torque but I believe it won't hold GT28 (300ps) setup.

I'm not sure how much temp considered as overheating on this motor. I'm getting around 220°F on a full hill attack with the upgraded radiator.
 

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On normal drive below 3,000rpm or turbo spools, everything is just fine with Auto-stop, even, the water temp will not go beyond 190°F. However, if you're doing hard pulls or attack, it's better to keep the AC run for a lower water temp. There is no particular type of force induction suitable for our Z's, it's just the matter of preferences.
By overheating the turbo I mean that it's basically cooled by the engine oil. If you suddenly stop the engine, the heat from the hot side has nowhere to go and there's always a bit of oil in the turbo, which now doesn't flow. The turbo temperature can raise to few hundred degrees celsius, the oil is basically destroyed in this temperature. That's why you don't want to stop the oil flow when the turbo is that hot, so the temperature can spread evenly instead of heating that little bit of oil. Coolant temperature has nothig to do with this problem. Superchargers doesn't have this problem because they are not connected to hot exhaust. Yes, they heat up as well, but not nearly as much as turbo. Most of the twin screw superchargers are basically air cooled. I might be wrong, but I think HKS centrifugal supercharger is cooled by the engine oil.

Anyway, overall I think it's a cool project, not many CRZs are with turbo, but if it was me, I would turn off the auto-stop entirely and install oil temperature sensor. I don't think CRZ have one, as I was only able to access coolant temp through OBD port.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
By overheating the turbo I mean that it's basically cooled by the engine oil.
Well, turbo are designed to withstand heat. It's common for turbo engine to have shorter engine oil life span. As long as I get a consistent dyno chart every year or every oil change, it's still sitting there rock solid.

I'm not gonna discuss any further on supercharger, it's not gonna be Turbo VS Supercharger here.
 
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