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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have yet another subwoofer-related idea:
So we have this, folding back thingy.... which would be the backs of rear seats if we had any, and its about 4 inches thick or so. I wonder if a person could pull that out, gut it, build it into a shallow mount subwoofer box and put it right back in. Maybe increase the depth to five or six inches sticking out the back a touch farther.
I got that far into thinking and stopped to wonder which would be better over-all, construct it so that the subwoofer(s) face out the back to the hatch, or cut the plastic in the front so that they face forwards?
I know a typical setup would have the woofers face back but I see value in facing them frontside as well, because if they were positioned just right the seatback could still fold down and the exposed fronts of the woofers would tuck into the cubby-buckets where they would be pretty safe from damage (assuming the cubbies are empty of course). Then you could still fold the back down and have 0-loss on your total storage capacity (an elusive goal for sub installs).
Front-facing woofers may not be ideal quality-wise but if your talking shallow mount woofers they only have so-so performance in the first place, it would probably look pretty nifty.
Anybody else wanna pick up your jigsaws and start cutting holes in those seat-back things with me? :D Or, offer your thoughts and advice while you wait for the follow up post of my seatback with two big rediculous holes in it? :tong:
 

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you could make it stick out the front a bit since when it fold over there's those lower buckets that part would fit into.
just a thought. but I find the stock sub fine, i only wish to replace the 8" with a 10" if it'll still fit under that stock cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have the base model so no stock sub for me, thats ok though I'm not big into stock woofers, If I want woofers i'm going to be aiming for 1000-1500 watts wheras the stock one can't be more than about 200 watts. I came from twin 15's @ 4000w so its not like I'm unwilling to step down, just not to 200. I wanna FEEL the music, I suppose I need to be able to feel it since its questionable just how good I can *hear* it these days. Nothing like going deaf at age 20 ;)
 

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I have the base model so no stock sub for me, thats ok though I'm not big into stock woofers, If I want woofers i'm going to be aiming for 1000-1500 watts wheras the stock one can't be more than about 200 watts. I came from twin 15's @ 4000w so its not like I'm unwilling to step down, just not to 200. I wanna FEEL the music, I suppose I need to be able to feel it since its questionable just how good I can *hear* it these days. Nothing like going deaf at age 20 ;)
Please try not to take this the wrong way, but if you are the guy driving around with the 4000w subs booming your music into my car, or house, as you drive by...

I HATE YOU!
:bored::bored::bored:




I hope you can take a joke.
 

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I would love to see the cabling for that! 4000W might be the spec, but at 12V that is 330A, You would need less that 2/100ths of an ohm resistance to even get 6 volts at the other end of the power cable to that Amp. K

(Assuming 4KW RMS, the cable could be used for a heater!)
 

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Ive never understood car audio.. or most modern audio.. I'm in to building modern versions of tube amps, and I can deafen myself w/ 10 watts! ( here's one: SET | Flickr - Photo Sharing!)
Granted my speakers are 100db/watt at 1 meter efficiency. VS the about 80db/watt/meter for car speakers.. buy why!? why waste all that power?!?
The Difference is you have to have an extremely clean signal feeding the super efficient speakers as even a tiny bit of noise on the line will be loud.. But it's not tough to design a clean amp.. And, it's not a tube thing.. Solid State amps can be just as clean. (I built a few of those too, also on that flickr page)
Seems like w/ efficiency becoming such a hot item, manufacturers would start looking in to this stuff more.
 

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You mean like this? (Green CR-Z @ SEMA Show



I think this is a WAY cool idea for how to use completely wasted space. Just flip the divider down as a theft-deterrent when you park the car out in town. Looks like enough to give plenty of bass without needing to save-up for hearing aids for later...
 

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I think this is a WAY cool idea for how to use completely wasted space. Just flip the divider down as a theft-deterrent when you park the car out in town. Looks like enough to give plenty of bass without needing to save-up for hearing aids for later...
Will need a new Warning sign. "Do not let girlfriend or wife sit here with 30%+ bass setting. They will no longer need your services."

oops, did I say that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah just one would be good for me too. As far as my 4000 wat claims go, well, most of you are aware of how wattage inflation goes rampent in sub discussions. I know its not physically possible that I had the full 4000 watts, but as long as that number was stamped on the box I will keep throwing it out there, and I think I was close because the 1000 CCA Battery had only 8 inches of power cable from it to the amp... Whatever I did manage to convert to sound waves was... a sh1t-ton... lol yes you would be justified in hating me if I drove by your house. In one of my gen-ed writing classes the first day I introduced myself as "that jerk who drives by rattling the windows of the dorms." But its too much fun being a public nuisance!
Yeah that SEMA car is sweet SS2CRZ, very clean. I figured my idea couldnt be very origional but I didn't find much around the forum on it :)
 

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I know this thread is about a year old - but I'm planning on following through with this. Not for a sub box, though. I'm building out a CarPC, and I want to put it back there. :)

I pulled out the little cubbies on the bottom, and sadly the metal floor of car is right there and pretty much conforms to the shape of the cubbies, so my original plan of cutting those out to make more room is out the door.

So the plan now is to make a new 'back', make it attach to the stock hinges, and allow it lay down and sit on the cubbies just like OEM seat back. Except instead of being a useless piece of plastic, it will extend the height of the cubbies by a few inches - enough so I can put a small computer, control boxes, and maybe some batteries.
 
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