Do you have an aftermarket headunit? If not, the stock stereo will not make a/m speakers sound that much better. It just doesn't have the power that better speakers need.
If you are doing an aftermarket stereo I'd suggest searching. maybe something like "D series amp" or some such. There was a professional stereo guy who posted in a thread about why it's difficult and risky to do an aftermarket system in the CR-Z. It included dual batteries, D series amps (old tech and one for each sub) and amps that are safe for the car to power the components.
You have to remove the door panel, and two plastic plate covers , one which covers the side view mirror, the other is a long piece that triangles in shape (if you where looking at the driver door the piece is on the outer edge on the rearward part of the door), you are looking at 80.00 if you break both pieces while working them off, which I was lucky, I only broke two one mirror cover plate on the passenger and the long piece on the driver side, I kept both broken pieces so I can reference them if I ever have to take them off again. This way I can work them off the correct way. And the factory head unit has enough power to drive after market speakers trust me, I have replaced all of them to include the factory sub with a 8" flat sub from pioneer which sounds alot better than the stock unit
another note, you will need spacer rings 1/2 inch thick, using the 1" spacer rings may not allow you to put the door assembly back on, I cant speak for if the 1" ring works because I used the .5 instead and had no problems. The speakers I used to replace the factory are the MB Quart Premium PVI216 6.5" 2-Way Component/Convertible Coaxial Speakers. With the Titanium Tweets and breath taking detail of vocals, and mid bass, I could not expect anything less from them
I used both MB Quart Premium PVI216 6.5"'s for the front and back speakers but found that as stated above by others , the rear speakers do not get much power like the front doors do, and I mean alot less power. In my opinion they are only filler speakers anyway. So what I ended up doing since for proper stereo imaging you don't really want rear speakers giving you a rear stage anyway I simply took mine out, however if you plan to get amps later, then go ahead and put matching PV1216's in your rear decks as well I recommend the PDX5 from Alpine its a good amp with clean power all rated at 4 ohms so the power you see on the sheet is what you get , you wont be disappointed i promise. as for the rear plastics, they are expensive to replace so I suggest having a shop do it so if they break it , its their money not yours, also get the wire harness adaptors for all of the speakers they make the install very clean and look factory utilising the same cannon plug design as the factory units did, its quicker too and what most professional shops use. Their cost is minimal and out weigh with convenience and install time: Also you will need extra speaker wire to make this all work with the addition of the cross overs. Your factory tweeters have wire with power but I just opted not using them since I was already using the speaker wire from the door units. And the tweeter's wire is not long enough to reach the cross over in the door from the dashboard. Even running the PDX5 you will not need to change your speaker wire to your 4 stage speakers just your sub woofer's will need to be updated since the current will change from 90 watts to 300.
Notes: rear plastic for Driver side only (sub woofer side) is $490.00!, and Passenger side's is a cheap $386.00, money I could not justify which is why my sides are not replaced yet, plus I have plans for a CUSCO roll cage unit so the sides would be trashed anyway. I used all the proper panel removing tools, as I used to work for Orion and did a lot of their installs. So trust me, if you are quoted 200 to install the rears that is still alot cheaper than almost 800.00, other notes, for the cross over networks which you will want to mount to each door you need to go to LOWES and get urethane bushings 1/4 inch to allow for a good mount position on a otherwise not flat panel, I suggest using locking nut and small stainless steel bolts, lets me honest once this is done how often do you plan to go into your door again, also with locking nuts not need to worry "if I hear something rattling in my door", because its not going to happen. also get some all purpose grease to help work your speaker wire that you will want to work back through the factory rubber boot on the door to install your new tweets, you will need a drumel if you plan to do this your self, trust me, also with the spacer rings there will be no need to hack up your door, and will give you the proper spacing needed to clear your powered window which has to come down at some point in its life. Please note that all of the spacings I have given you will work 100% on the above listed model of component speakers. I cannot speak for other name brands as for their magnet spacing , ring spacing may differ. Also one final note, its messy , there is black goo that adheres to plastic sheets that cover both doors, I removed mine and used brake cleaner to get rid of the stuff, now my door panels are pretty and clean. Do not rub in one spot too long with brake cleaner, it will make a night and day difference in how easily the crap comes off, but I suggest using a old credit card to take off the thick stuff first so you don't end up rubbing off paint on the inner door panel. And no you don't need the plastic sheet there. Since the install I have noticed no "road roar from air passing through the door" nor have I noticed any draft in the winter from the door panels since their removal so you will be fine removing them and cleaning up the area
I still have the stock deck.... but.... i added all new speakers w/ 2 12" subs in the back. To power all that i have a 5 ch amp with everything built in.... I thump down the road.. Also i had the whole car Dyno matted for better sound! I took it in to a stereo place and the installer couldn't believe how good it sound!
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