[RedefinedCRZ]

Your going to need to drill a hole through the firewall and install a gromit in it. If your car is an Automatic the clutch plate is where I drilled through. Than I ran the wires along the driver's side by pulling off the rubber door seal and the plastic covers along the door.

As far as a dash kit, have not seen anything yet. The harness seems to be the same as those for a Civic.

 

[RedefinedCRZ]

I am running a Memphis SC2.120 which is 420W RMS when bridged at 4 ohms and I am having ZERO problems. No cap (honestly we kind of laugh a people who use them around here because the shop that I do work with sells HUGE Kinetik HC600 850 Amp High Current Power Cell's which replace the factory battery in many cases. They are like 10,000 farad caps.

But anyway in my case I run no cap, have zero dimming problems, can run my stereo and all my external LED's at a car show for 60min before I need to start the car and just rev the motor to charge things up a bit. The IMA system actually charges your starting battery, so remember you have the batteries from the IMA system to pull from when needed, it just has to step down the power back to your factory battery.

 

[RedefinedCRZ]

You need to get a PAC (Line Level Input) adapter to get a audio source from the factory stereo to run your RCA's from and than to your Amp. You can tap the signal from the factory subwoofer output in the trunk, that way your factory stereo will allow you to control the subwoofer level and it will get only bass tones just like your factory sub.

As far as a setup. I have 1 10in shallow mount sub in a custom built box in my "cargo area"

 

[RedefinedCRZ]

Should still have the hookup back there for it. It is behind the little panel on the driver side in the trunk. Should be grey with 2 wires going to it. Most likely taped off in your car.

 

[RedefinedCRZ]

Umm, I have a wiring diagram at home. I try and remember to look at it tonight.