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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure this has been gone over a few times in this forum already. I just got my CRZ base model and I would like to replace the stock stereo with something aftermarket. It will most likely be a Pioneer Double Din Touch Screen deck, as well as install my amp and sub/s as well.

The questions I have about this are:

1) Is there a dash kit to allow for Double DIN decks to be installed? Part#? Where can I get it?
2) Is there a wiring harness available? Part#? Where?

3) I have a 1200W Hifonics Brutus Monoblock and Power Acoustik Capacitor that I had wired down to 450W in my Nissan Sentra. The reason I had it wired this way was because I did not want to add another battery to the car but also not kill the alternator/battery. It ran for about 2 years with no problems. The question is how much wattage do you think that CRZ can handle?

4) Can anyone tell me the best way to run an amplifier kit through the CRZ? Just any tips you can provide?

Thanks for hearing me out. I was driving a '99 Sentra for about 3 years and it has since passed on R.I.P. But the new CRZ has left my hungry for my bass back. Any help would be greatly appreciated for this bass starved young fellow.:bored:
 

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Your going to need to drill a hole through the firewall and install a gromit in it. If your car is an Automatic the clutch plate is where I drilled through. Than I ran the wires along the driver's side by pulling off the rubber door seal and the plastic covers along the door.

As far as a dash kit, have not seen anything yet. The harness seems to be the same as those for a Civic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any idea as to how many watts the stock battery/alternator can handle? I will just be using a Hifonics Brutus Bxi1206d amp which will be wired to 450W @ 4ohms and a 1.6 Farad Power Acoustik Capacitor. Do you think that the CRZ can handle this wattage without causing power problems? This is my biggest issue.
 

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I am running a Memphis SC2.120 which is 420W RMS when bridged at 4 ohms and I am having ZERO problems. No cap (honestly we kind of laugh a people who use them around here because the shop that I do work with sells HUGE Kinetik HC600 850 Amp High Current Power Cell's which replace the factory battery in many cases. They are like 10,000 farad caps.

But anyway in my case I run no cap, have zero dimming problems, can run my stereo and all my external LED's at a car show for 60min before I need to start the car and just rev the motor to charge things up a bit. The IMA system actually charges your starting battery, so remember you have the batteries from the IMA system to pull from when needed, it just has to step down the power back to your factory battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
And you're not running this Kinetik Power Cell, correct? You are just using the stock battery setup?

If that is just stock battery setup, I should be fine with 450W then. And thanks for the install advice, because drilling the hole is the worst part for me. I'm good with stereos and electrical stuff, just not cars. So when I start drilling holes in a new car, I get nervous.

This actually brings up a couple more questions though. If you haven't found a dash kit yet, then are you using the factory deck? And if so, can you wire a sub to the factory deck?(I'm sure you can, I have never done it though.)

Also, how do you have the subs in the car? Right now I have 2 12"s in a normal sealed box. It fits in the car nice, I was just wondering how everyone else is putting them in. Maybe there is a better box or enclosure that fits better in this car. And also, how did you secure the box down? I know the spare tire is underneath the trunk space so how should I secure the box down?

Thanks for all of the help by the way. Like I said, I'm good with stereo equipment, just not cars. I'm afraid I'll drill directly into something important. :cry:
 

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You need to get a PAC (Line Level Input) adapter to get a audio source from the factory stereo to run your RCA's from and than to your Amp. You can tap the signal from the factory subwoofer output in the trunk, that way your factory stereo will allow you to control the subwoofer level and it will get only bass tones just like your factory sub.

As far as a setup. I have 1 10in shallow mount sub in a custom built box in my "cargo area"

 

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i will be starting my quest on my stereo install on my crz and ill try to help out. i am sticking with the stock deck on my base model. using an Audison Bitone processor as my line out converter. will be running 3 zapco c2k amplifiers and a stereo Integrity Mag v4 12 sub sealed in 1 cube.

i am replacing my front battery with an XS Power D5100 and putting an xs power D680 in the rear.

i am running a Hybrid Audio 3 way component set active up front. 6.5" in the door and a 3" and a 1" tweeter in my A pillars. once i get them glassed.

im shooting for a competitive sound quality competition install.
 

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does anyone know where to run the power cable in a manual car since the clutch plate is not an option? and does anyone have a wire diagram for the radio because there is no factory sub cable like redefinedcrz stated there was, this is a base model and i could not find that cable anywhere behind that panel.
 

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IIRC the purple wire going to the radio can be used for your remote wire for your amplifier. I have the EX so my factory amp wiring is different I believe. You may take a look at some of the newer Civic sites and see if they have a wiring diagram. It should be the same for the CRZ
 

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What wires do you need info on? The CR-Z radio harness conforms to the standard color code that nearly call cars do, found here:

Wiring Harness Color Standards - Knowledge Base

Additionally, pin 16 (4th from the bottom-right, while looking at the pin side of the car harness) is for the steering wheel control signals, and pin 5 (5th form the top-right) is the ground pin for said control signals.

What are you looking for that isn't answered here?
 

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does anyone know where to run the power cable in a manual car since the clutch plate is not an option? and does anyone have a wire diagram for the radio because there is no factory sub cable like redefinedcrz stated there was, this is a base model and i could not find that cable anywhere behind that panel.
Just run it through whatever hole exists in the firewall already, or (and this is WAY easier) just drill a new one. It's not a big deal. You can peel the soundproofing back and it will cover up the hole if you ever remove the wire.

As for the sub wire, you are correct, it's not back there on the base model. You're going to want to patch into one of the rear speaker wires, and run the wire to the HI LEVEL input on your amp. DO NOT RUN TO THE LOW LEVELS. If you don't have hi level inputs, then you will need a line converter.
 

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sound system help????!!!!!

Hey I live in tulsa, oklahoma, and I have all the wires amp and sub and deck to make my car work and i have hooked it up all correctly and i was wondering if any cr z guys have ran into the fuse blowing issue when u connect all and turn on car to see if works?

Mine blew a fuse to where i dont have the taillights for dark driving. been told improper ground used but had ground wire to metal. i have all the wires hooked up and setup in the car just i dont know why it wont work and what i need to do bec from here the cr z hybrid can have a sound system but im having issues big time.

please help. i dont come on here and would like someone that would help me but i have to take my car to dealer to replace fuse though. heres email [email protected]
 

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Hey I live in tulsa, oklahoma, and I have all the wires amp and sub and deck to make my car work and i have hooked it up all correctly and i was wondering if any cr z guys have ran into the fuse blowing issue when u connect all and turn on car to see if works?

Mine blew a fuse to where i dont have the taillights for dark driving. been told improper ground used but had ground wire to metal. i have all the wires hooked up and setup in the car just i dont know why it wont work and what i need to do bec from here the cr z hybrid can have a sound system but im having issues big time.

please help. i dont come on here and would like someone that would help me but i have to take my car to dealer to replace fuse though. heres email [email protected]
HAPPENED TO ME TOO...
take out the radio head unit and make sure ALL loose wires are capped off and not exposed - there could be a wire touching the metal mounting plate in the radio area - cause the power flow to ground out and pop a breaker - my tail lights was the one that blew too...
once you've checked all the wires behind the head unit, maybe check all your positive and negative wire connections to the amps - its possible you have the positive flowing wire going into the negative connection in the amp...couldn't hurt to double check - try that out and let us know if that fixes the problem

also...no need to go to the dealer to spend $100 for them to replace a fuse...go to advanced auto parts (or any car store) and get a box of multi fuses...ours take the mini sized fuses - remove the small panel by your knee closest to the driver side door (when sitting in the driver seat) this is to the fuse box - on the back of the cover is a cheat sheet for what the fuses all go - the one you're looking for is a 10A, 4th column over and like 3rd row up from bottom.
 
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