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Discussion Starter #161
But how do I prove that the shop did a swap and that I'm not an unscrupulous customer that was the party that did the swap and I am trying to scam the shop?
 

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Discussion Starter #163
Yes, I have an invoice for a transmission rebuild and a payment receipt. That only shows that particular shop worked on my car and that I paid for it.
The car was not operational when it was brought in, it was operational when I picked it up and continues to be operational.
So the shops can claim that the car was indeed repaired.
Proving that they did it incorrectly will require more substantial evidence.
 

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You'd have to pay someone else to take the gearbox off and either change the FD or swap the whole gearbox. If this fixes it, then you can ask the original shop for a refund. Personally, I would not let the the original shop touch the car even though will want the opportunity to fix it themselves, because they'll probably claim everything is in order and you'll be back to square one.
Once they receive some sort of official notification of legal action from you they should provide copies of invoices for the parts they fitted so you'd be able check the part numbers. If they don't, its fair to assume they swapped the gearbox. (then ask them to return your gearbox as an alternative to being sued )
 

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Discussion Starter #165
I'd rather just verify that the final drive gear ratio is wrong, have the proper gears installed and be done with it.
If that restores the regenerative charging of the IMA battery, great.
If not, move on to other possible causes.
 

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You could measure wheel/tyre and crank revolutions/degrees of movement while pushing the car an exact distance say 20M in 6th gear..

Tricky with accurate measurements to do and maths, but that might give you your current ratio. although you could probably extrapolate it now from the amount your speedo is off.

I suspect you will need an independent mechanical engineer to prepare a report $$$ if you want to go to court etc unless public shaming on FB/forums etc doesn't have the desired effect.

But you need some accurate facts first..
 

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I've already worked out the wheel turns per mile and proved using the calculator on page 5, and some maths*, that the Fd has been changed. The repair shop stated that there wasn't a problem as the mph at 3000rpm was within the range of 70-75mph. Total nonsense of course and that's them showing their ignorance or trying to fob off the OP.
*Page 5 post #97
 

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If he provides them with proof that the FD has changed from the calculator to back up his own speed readings at 3000rpm, and a copy of post #8 from this thread.
It's good enough evidence in my opinion, for a civil court to find that the shop has indeed inadvertently changed the FD and caused the charging issues. Maybe he should confront them with this and see what they say?
 

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Discussion Starter #171
I don't feel it's worth my time to have any more dealings with the repair shop. That renders moot whether they are not capable, or acting fraudulently, or both.
 

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I don't feel it's worth my time to have any more dealings with the repair shop. That renders moot whether they are not capable, or acting fraudulently, or both.
Unfortunately I think your right I think. You can bring them the printout of the various gear calculations provided in the thread. I doubt they'll take this as cannon.

If your willing to get a trustworthy shop to take the tranny out you can whip the casing off and count the teeth on the crown wheel and teeth on the countershaft and divide them. This will save the hassle of pulling the gears off the counter shaft and searching for part numbers.

If you come up with 4.11 after the division you have the wrong fd 😕
 

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Discussion Starter #173
If your willing to get a trustworthy shop to take the tranny out you can whip the casing off and count the teeth on the crown wheel and teeth on the countershaft and divide them. This will save the hassle of pulling the gears off the counter shaft and searching for part numbers.
Counting teeth on the drive gear and the driven gear is part of what I am planning to ask the new Honda specialist. I didn't know the teeth are visible by just removing the casing. That definitely simplifies the task.
 

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Yeah when you whip off the case essentially you'll have the back of the crown rear fully visible as the diff will be sitting face down pointing toward the engine.

The teeth on the lay shaft that form the pinion gear will be a little more awkward to see but a little dab of gear marking compound on one tooth will make it easier.
 

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The other thing to note is sealant between the bell housing and case.

If your tranny was built it could have non oem coloured sealant.

Hondas ive worked on it is normally black or opaque coloured sealent.

If it looks oem and its durty and grimey it'll be a dead giveaway that it's just a replacement unit.
 

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Also, the transmission number would be different, or look like its been tampered with if they swapped it over.
(to the OP, its easily visible in the engine bay)
 

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Discussion Starter #177
Yeah when you whip off the case essentially you'll have the back of the crown rear fully visible as the diff will be sitting face down pointing toward the engine.

The teeth on the lay shaft that form the pinion gear will be a little more awkward to see but a little dab of gear marking compound on one tooth will make it easier.
The other thing to note is sealant between the bell housing and case.

If your tranny was built it could have non oem coloured sealant.

Hondas ive worked on it is normally black or opaque coloured sealent.

If it looks oem and its durty and grimey it'll be a dead giveaway that it's just a replacement unit.
This is excellent information but beyond changing engine oil & filter and cleaning spark plugs, I haven't done any work on the cars that I have owned over the years.
I don't think I have enough experience (and possibly the tools) to follow through with your suggestions.
I can ask the Honda specialist if their technician can do these inspections.

Also, the transmission number would be different, or look like its been tampered with if they swapped it over.
(to the OP, its easily visible in the engine bay)
How do I find out what is the original factory installed transmission number?
 

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This is excellent information but beyond changing engine oil & filter and cleaning spark plugs, I haven't done any work on the cars that I have owned over the years.
I don't think I have enough experience (and possibly the tools) to follow through with your suggestions.
I can ask the Honda specialist if their technician can do these inspections.


How do I find out what is the original factory installed transmission number?
I tried that in the thread, the numbers don't coincide with the chassis vin. Not sure of what else or where this information could be got. Maybe a Honda dealer may be able to tell you.
What i didn't try actually was the engine number to see if any of the digits match the tranny. I can do tomorrow and maybe someone else here can also.
 

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im having this issue right now.
No regen braking or assist happening
No IMA light.

its a 2012 Zf1
6 Manual
that has done 150000 km which is 95000 miles
my 12volt was changed and even that will see volt drop to now 11v or so .
its almost as thou its draining power potentially . But the fact IMA isnt working isnt helping.
Any thoughts and suggestions also would help.
 
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