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Peter Perkins will be along shortly to explain under what conditions this can happen.
One thing that can cause it is a faulty neutral switch. I.e the ecus think you out of gear when you aren't. Also the clutch and brake pedal switches. So these are what I would check.
Presumably nothing to do with final drive being changed?!
 

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;) This is a bit of a thread hijack by SnoopG. However

FarmerGiles is correct.

If the car thinks the clutch is pressed it may well not assist or regenerate when driving.
The neutral switch is also a distinct possibility.

A faulty brake switch would be easy to spot as the brake lights would be on all the time. (Check this)

This where an HDS comes in real handy as you can see brake, clutch and neutral switch flags in the live data.
A broken clutch switch can and does happen on other IMA cars causing this symptom.

So lets try this first before we delve into the multitude of other reasons why assist and regen stops working!! ;)

The CRZ has three clutch switches, my preliminary research suggest clutch switch A the yellow one in this picture of my UK MT6 car is most likely to be associated with this symptom.
Note I have not personally tested this yet as 1) My car is in pieces 2) I am waiting for some harness parts to make up a parallel clutch switch.

62662


Note its a real PITA to get at.

It maybe easier to access the Clutch switch wires at the ECM wherever that is?

Anyway the clutch A switch wire is ECM Connector B pin 12 (Red wire)

This should read 5V with reference to ground when the clutch is not pressed.
With clutch pressed it should read 0V
 

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Neutral switch definitely. I forced it into neutral while coasting downhill in 6th, when charging had been happening, which then stopped. I think its worth investigating as I obviously couldn't check if assistance was cancelled as well.
 

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Neutral switch definitely. I forced it into neutral while coasting downhill in 6th, when charging had been happening, which then stopped. I think its worth investigating as I obviously couldn't check if assistance was cancelled as well.
Handily the neutral switch is also on ECM Connector B, pin 13 (Red/Black wire) next to the clutch switch wire.
This should be 0v in neutral and 5V when in gear with reference to ground.
 

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If even with a new battery under the hood you may have a DC to DC converter issue. You may want to have a dealer look at it. Load test your under hood battery. If you are seeing 11 volts without load it must drop even further under load. If DC to DC converter is failing I would expect charging of both batteries to be affected since we have no alternator. Hopefully it is the DC to DC converter as the IMA motor is much more expensive. As it is a 2012 have you had the update done which affects the charging (or the apparent charging)of the IMA Battery? This last is aside from the DC to DC converter or other IMA issues.

The more I read and reread your postings you are probably looking at the DC to DC converter or other IMA issue.

The OP knows his transmission was changed and we have surmised in his case the Final drive ratio is probabably his issue.



im having this issue right now.
No regen braking or assist happening
No IMA light.

its a 2012 Zf1
6 Manual
that has done 150000 km which is 95000 miles
my 12volt was changed and even that will see volt drop to now 11v or so .
its almost as thou its draining power potentially . But the fact IMA isnt working isnt helping.
Any thoughts and suggestions also would help.
 

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If even with a new battery under the hood you may have a DC to DC converter issue. You may want to have a dealer look at it. Load test your under hood battery. If you are seeing 11 volts without load it must drop even further under load. If DC to DC converter is failing I would expect charging of both batteries to be affected since we have no alternator. Hopefully it is the DC to DC converter as the IMA motor is much more expensive. As it is a 2012 have you had the update done which affects the charging (or the apparent charging)of the IMA Battery? This last is aside from the DC to DC converter or other IMA issues.

The more I read and reread your postings you are probably looking at the DC to DC converter or other IMA issue.

The OP knows his transmission was changed and we have surmised in his case the Final drive ratio is probabably his issue.
Cheers boss. .your right cause my electrical guy said the same thing

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
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Let's get a few basic facts from Snoop. .. Then we can make some further deductions.

Use a proper multimeter on the battery terminals to measure the below.

What is the voltage of the 12v battery when the car is off?
What is the voltage of the 12V battery with the IGN on and engine not running?
What is the voltage of the 12V battery with the ign on and engine idling?
What is the voltage of the 12V battery with the ign on and engine at about 2.5k rpm?

Thanks

Unfortunately 99% of dealer techs know very little about the inner workings of the IMA system.
They will follow Honda workshop manual diagnostics for known codes, but when you don't have any it's pretty much game over for them. :cry:

The IMA motor itself is virtually indestructible in normal use. I have never heard of an electrically failed IMA motor in over 15 years.
A failed IMA motor with an open or short in the phases etc would also give an immediate un-resetable IMA code, so we can eliminate that from our enquiries for now.

The DC-DC can fail, but again it's incredibly reliable and well built. I have only seen two failed IMA system DC-DC converters over the years.

The voltages I have asked you to obtain above will tell us if the DC-DC is operating Y/N.

Note. Not operating is not the same as failed/broken.

The DC-DC will disable itself if it overheats and the MCM and ECM can also command the DC-DC on or off.

If it isn't operating then we have to decide if it has failed or it has been shut down by other parts of the IMA system.
 

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im having this issue right now.
No regen braking or assist happening
No IMA light.

its a 2012 Zf1
6 Manual
that has done 150000 km which is 95000 miles
my 12volt was changed and even that will see volt drop to now 11v or so .
its almost as thou its draining power potentially . But the fact IMA isnt working isnt helping.
Any thoughts and suggestions also would help.
not sure how the 12v system would behave with a dead IMA battery. 11v isn't normal. It might be that your DC-DC converter is bad, which is the device that converts the 144 volts of the IMA battery down to 14v. It could also be that the DC-DC converter can't function properly with a dead IMA battery. When does the voltage drop to 11v? is it all the time or only when the auto-stop is engaged?
 
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