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Discussion Starter #1
I just turned 135k miles on my 2011 EX. It has started making a noise from the rear of the car it sounds like. I am thinking it might be a rear wheel bearing. I jacked the car up and spun the wheels and I don't hear anything unusual. I have pushed and pulled on the top and sides of the rear wheels and I don't have any excess play. Tire wear appears even across the tread. No cupping or unusual wear I can see or feel. I think my next move is going to be to swing the calipers out of the way and see if there is anything unusal.

Any ideas on how to isolate whether it is wheel bearings or something else? Are the bearings similar in installation to a civic? I can go a search for info on civics. I am sure there have been wheel bearing replacements on civics.

Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
A little more information. The noise builds as I build speed. It's like a low rumbling sound, that's why I was thinking wheel bearings. My wife said it sounds like I have a fart pipe. It's not an exhaust leak because I can push the clutch in and rev the motor and the noise stays the same. Turn the car side to side and the noise stays the same. Rear MOOG bearings are $100 from Rock Auto while Timken are $86. Warranty on MOOG is 3 year vs. 1 year on Timken.
 

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Description of "noise" needs to be a little more precise. :smile2: Sounds like you did the wheel bearing test to rule that out--if no play, and it spins true/freely, but I was wondering if the noise could be more of a metal-to-metal sound, and/or is it steady, as opposed to a morse code type of sound, if you know what I mean. Like frozen caliper or e-brake....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's a steady roar type noise. The pitch changes as I get up to speed. I pulled on the emergency brake to see if that made any difference and I noticed no change there.

I've been searching around and there doesn't seem to be many examples of rear wheel bearings going bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know someone had posted a pdf of the shop manual. My computer crashed sometime back and I lost my copy. Anyone have the link to that still?
 

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I know someone had posted a pdf of the shop manual. My computer crashed sometime back and I lost my copy. Anyone have the link to that still?
Yeah--I keep this link (to the link) on the first page of my build thread, just in case my computer crashes, lol:
Miscellaneous:
─2011-2012 CR-Z Service Manual (no 2013 available at the time) click here for PDF version, thanks to KennyX
 

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First thing I'd check is the rear pads, the CR-Z chews up rear pads faster than the fronts due to the regenerative braking and you can hit the wear bars pretty quickly. Its quick and easy. While you're there check what Litz suggested for proper caliper function.

Second, your noise description does sound accurate to a rear bearing but if you can't feel play or any grinding/abnormalities while pushing and spinning the wheel yet or aren't positive I'd say keep driving. If it is the bearing it will get worse and you'll have confirmation and will also be able to feel the roughness while spinning by hand or side to side play, or both.

Also on those bearing replacements you listed does it come with the hub? The rear bearing hub assembly on the CR-Z is a slide/bolt on, the bearing is pressed onto the hub so you'd need to separate the parts if its just a bearing for those options just so you're aware. The Genuine Honda replacement comes as bearing and hub together.
 

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First thing I'd check is the rear pads, the CR-Z chews up rear pads faster than the fronts due to the regenerative braking and you can hit the wear bars pretty quickly. Its quick and easy. While you're there check what Litz suggested for proper caliper function.
I've heard that mentioned before on the forum, but I don't have enough mileage for it to show yet. The curious thing is that in my 1st Gen Insight, which has the drum/shoe set up on the rears, I still had the original shoes on the rear at 220,000+ miles--and they looked practically brand new! (but I had to do the front caliper rebuild by then.) [I just counted the long lasting wear pattern on the rears, as due to the regenerative braking on the Insight, but it seems the opposite is true on the CR-Z...curious.]


Also on those bearing replacements you listed does it come with the hub? The rear bearing hub assembly on the CR-Z is a slide/bolt on, the bearing is pressed onto the hub so you'd need to separate the parts if its just a bearing for those options just so you're aware. The Genuine Honda replacement comes as bearing and hub together.
Was wondering that too, since the ones in his link were so much cheaper than OEM. (I still choose OEM replacement over cheaper aftermarket replacement parts--just have more trust in them, but a good cheap part is better than a bad OEM part.) :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just came in from tearing the drivers side rear down.

The rear brake pads are worn. The inside pad more so than the outer pad. The inside pad was stuck in the slide. I took the slides out and cleaned everything up with a wire brush.

I also removed the rear hub and bearings. Once the nut is taken off, the hub and bearings are a slip fit over the axle. It is two bearings in the hub housing. The outer bearing has a rough feel to it while the inside bearing is nice and smooth. I do have the Timken bearings and hub coming as an assembly from Rockauto. Someone has been into this side before because there were no retainer screws in the rotor.

I greased the slides, cleaned the edges of the pads and greased them so they would slide easy and not get stuck.

The new hub assembly will be here in a few days and it will be an easy swap. Maybe an hour to change from start to finish. I'll let everyone know if that is my fix.

I guess I need to find some pads for the rear now.


If I had a press, I would have no problem buying bearings and pressing them in. I am sure You could probably save even more money over the Timken assembly. But my time is worth it not to have to go through that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I changed the rear hub out this morning. That was the noise. Super easy swap. I have a cordless impact wrench and it made easy work of the lug nuts and wheel hub nut. I had the hub changed out and back on its wheels in about an hour. Car runs smooth and quiet again. Well pleased with the Timken hub.

I assume the hub and bearings are stock in this picture.


This is the new Timken hub. Notice the bearings are the exact same. If the hub in the above picture is stock, then the Timken hub at Rockauto for $85 is a much better buy than buying from Honda for $250.
 

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I do not believe Honda makes Hubs or bearings they get them made by any number of Manufactures to their specifications. It is called private branding. This is the nature of manufacturing these days. As long as the parts meet or exceed the recommended specifications there should be no difference.


I changed the rear hub out this morning. That was the noise. Super easy swap. I have a cordless impact wrench and it made easy work of the lug nuts and wheel hub nut. I had the hub changed out and back on its wheels in about an hour. Car runs smooth and quiet again. Well pleased with the Timken hub.

I assume the hub and bearings are stock in this picture.


This is the new Timken hub. Notice the bearings are the exact same. If the hub in the above picture is stock, then the Timken hub at Rockauto for $85 is a much better buy than buying from Honda for $250.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I do not believe Honda makes Hubs or bearings they get them made by any number of Manufactures to their specifications. It is called private branding. This is the nature of manufacturing these days. As long as the parts meet or exceed the recommended specifications there should be no difference.
I agree with you on that. Denso corporation is not too far from where I live. I know they make parts for several car manufacturers. I searched on here and didn't find very much information about the rear wheel bearings. I was just pointing out that the Timken assembly matches the assembly I took off of my car. The Timken box did say made in Japan.
 
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