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Discussion Starter #1
People have known to use RSX-S brakes for a front upgrade for a long time, but what @HondaHolly's fiance put me on to at the dragon was whether the 2006-2011 Civic Si rear brake kits might fit on the CRZ. They can fit, but you have to delete the rear brake splash guard or run a spacer.

People have known about how hard it is to find reman CRZ caliper/bracket assemblies (rockauto currently has 2 right rears and no left rears). We can get upgraded pads and rotors, but not really any upgrade kits for the rear. This is only an upgrade in terms of serviceability. The brakes will not function any better with the Civic Si brakes than they will if you get CRZ pads and rotors from the corresponding sets. But if you are one of the many that are having issues with the rear slide pins seizing, and can't find a reman CRZ caliper/bracket, this might be for you. There are a lot more options out there for the Civic Si, just by virtue of mass production.

The Caliper and pads are identical form CRZ to Civic Si, but the mounting bracket and rotor are a little different. Notably, this is the only way to order pre-painted red calipers for the rear that isn't friggin expensive.

There's 10mm more backset from the hub face on the Civic Si rotors and brackets. If you wanted to run longer wheel studs and a 10mm spacer on the hub and bracket, you can keep the splash guard on. You can not swap Civic SI hubs onto the CRZ to solve the backspacing. As far as I can tell, the hub/bearing assy is a unique part. Spacing out the rotor would also give the wheel a little better fill on the wheel well, so take info that and do what you will with it.
It's basically the same process as a standard brake replacement. Those of us in the rust belt will have some issues getting the parking brake cable out of the bracket - the bracket can be removed from the caliper if you can't get it out. Mine came out with relative ease after using penetrating oil.
  1. Raise and safely support the back half of the vehicle on jackstands.
  2. Remove the wheel
  3. Use an impact screwdriver (I recommend an impact gun) to remove the rotor retainer screws
  4. Remove the upper from caliper bracket
  5. Install the upper mounting tab of the caliper onto the lower mounting location on the caliper bracket
  6. Remove the retainer clip from the caliper bracket
  7. Use a wrench on the parking brake return spring to release tension and slip the parking brake cable off the actuator.
  8. Either:
    1. remove the parking brake cable from the bracket
    2. remove the 2 bolts that hold the bracket to the caliper.
  9. Remove the caliper from the mounting bracket
  10. Remove the mounting bracket from the axle.
  11. Remove the caliper and set on a bucket so it isn't hanging by the hose.
  12. Remove the rotor splash guard - keep the smaller inner section in place.
    • I strongly encourage just taking a cutting wheel around the splash guard.
    • Depending on how badly rusted it is, you might be able to rip it right off - disconnect the ABS sensor to avoid damage.
    • You could also remove the hub and un-bolt the splash guard.
  13. Install the new rotor
  14. Install the rotor retaining screws
  15. Install the caliper bracket.
  16. Install the pad clips and pads on the caliper bracket
  17. Remove the banjo bolt and brake hose from the old caliper and install it on the new caliper
    • Use new crush washers on either side of the hose
  18. Install the new caliper
  19. Bleed the brakes.
  20. Bed in the brake pads.
    • This varies depending on the pads you get. Instructions should be included.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
This is how I mounted the brake caliper to get leverage to release the return spring in Step 5
59695


There's a nut at the bottom of the return spring that you can tighten with a wrench to take the parking brake cable on and off.
59696


I know the pads aren't installed. This was a dry-fit, I didn't have time to do both sides, so I just put the pieces in place. The original stuff was reinstalled, rusty parts and all.

See how nice the red looks? It will look even better when I have matching front and rear drilled/slotted rotors and red calipers
59697
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lol i thought was your screen name but nothing came up when i tried to @ you earlier.

Thanks for the idea and late night texts!
 

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I’ve seen non-factory powder coated calipers. It doesn’t last through the winter. Starts to chip and rust.
👎Rats I was planning to have my OEM ones powder coated black and was hoping it would last longer than the caliper Paint I had done to the last car.
 

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Previous car had professionally applied Caliper paint but while it looked better than before paint it still looked bad after 2 years.

I need something for The Speed Bump though. Thanks for suggesting this.
I think G2 caliper paint is better than powder coating....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
To clear up any confusion, I'll list the parts that are compatible.

Combo 1:
  • CRZ dust shield
  • CRZ caliper bracket
  • Civic Si caliper
  • CRZ Rotor
  • Pads (Compatible pads are used in a lot of cars; CRZ, Civic, S2K RSX, etc...)
Combo 2:
  • No dust shield
  • Civic Si caliper bracket
  • Civic Si caliper
  • Civic Si Rotor
  • Pads
Combo 3 (if you just have to be all kinds of Extra):
  • CRZ dust shield
  • Civic Si Caliper bracket
  • Civic Si caliper
  • Civic Si Rotor
  • Pads
  • 10mm Wheel spacer mounted between the hub and rotor
  • 10mm spacer mounted between the Caliper bracket and the Axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So to update this with some info I got while working on my truck... Apparently the Red Powdercoat that Powerstop uses is soluble in....brakleen. So yea. Buyer beware. I'm planning to Ceramic coat the calipers on the CRZ before I put them on in the hopes that they don't stay filthy like they do on the truck.
 

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So to update this with some info I got while working on my truck... Apparently the Red Powdercoat that Powerstop uses is soluble in....brakleen. So yea. Buyer beware. I'm planning to Ceramic coat the calipers on the CRZ before I put them on in the hopes that they don't stay filthy like they do on the truck.
Hello,
Was wondering when doing the rear upgrade using the Rockauto complete kit from a 2011 Civic Si , do i use the supplied rotors or my stock CR-Z rotors? I see the part numbers for rear CRZ rotors is different then the Civic Si
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hello,
Was wondering when doing the rear upgrade using the Rockauto complete kit from a 2011 Civic Si , do i use the supplied rotors or my stock CR-Z rotors? I see the part numbers for rear CRZ rotors is different then the Civic Si
Thank you
Use the rotors that come in the kit. The CRZ rotors will not fit with the Civic Si caliper bracket.
 

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Firephoenix,
Thanks Again! Completed the upgrade yesterday. The 2011 Civic Si set up works perfect. We installed New Hubs and bearings as well so since the Hubs where removed the access to the dust shield bolt (3) 10 MM where accessible. We cut the dust shield with the grinder and left the inner circle area that protects the hub bearing and Speed Sensor/ABS contact section.....so not leaving it totally exposed to road salt and debris
We also noticed that you keep the original CR-Z Emergency brake bracket and discard the one that comes on the 2011 Civic Caliper.
All in all this was a perfect upgrade as you said and glad i came across your post! No Regrets at all(y)
Thanks
Sal
 

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Discussion Starter #19
We also noticed that you keep the original CR-Z Emergency brake bracket and discard the one that comes on the 2011 Civic Caliper.
All in all this was a perfect upgrade as you said and glad i came across your post! No Regrets at all(y)
Thanks
Sal
Yea, i just noticed that last night when i installed it for real. Fit ok for a mockup but not on install.

Glad it helped.
 
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