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I presume the default setting for this is "off"? I haven't intentionally messed with it but I'll keep this in mind just in case.
 

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So I replaced the ima fan with an aftermarket from rockauto and that fix the problem temporary, I didn't work at the beginning but after driving for like 10 min start at full blast it did work like that for like 40 min and then start to slowing down and stop working , again code p1448 showing together with P0A7F
Should I get the OEM fan or it might be the battery going out ?
Also when code p1448 is present and the Temperature outside is +90 degrees Fahrenheit the 12v battery stop being charge and the red battery light lit after driving like that the car start loosing A/C , steering, etc and then stall
Please help
2005 Honda Accord hybrid
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
This is the wrong forum for the 2005 Accord hybrid.. However...

Did you clear your old IMA fan code properly after installing the new fan?
If not it might still be there waiting to be read.

P0A7F is IMA battery deterioration IIRC so you have more than just a possible fan problem.
As your IMA battery is bad, it is shutting down the DC-DC so the 12v battery is not being charged, hence losing AC, steering and car stalling etc.
You need to fix the IMA battery, speak to Bumblebee batteries in the US.

Have you checked for things like blocked IMA inlet and outlet vents.
Mice make nests in weird places. If the code really has come back try and get a proper fan from a breakers yard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I recently got a bad fan back from a UK CR-Z owner who had the P1448 fault.

This video shows good V bad fan bench test using a 12V current limited power supply.


Note the bad fan may not move at all in this test, and visual inspection might reveal clearly blown mosfets. (This fan did not have obvious visual mosfet damage)
Anyway after removing the pcb from the motor and testing the bad fan 6 x mosfets with a multimeter on basic continuity, it shows a blown (short circuit) mosfet that I have now removed.

You can buy them on e-bay for $5 for ten so it should be a case of simply soldering in a new one and off we go.
Note the solder on the PCB is high melting point. I had to turn my soldering iron upto 480C before it would melt properly. :eek:
Careful you don't mangle the pcb traces.

The NEC K3755/2SK3755 mosfet is a slightly narrow TO-220 insulated body type and I don't have any suitable in stock, so will order some and report back when fitted.
Might be a while on the slow boat from the far east. Note you could use any compatible pinout similar spec N Channel part.

Data sheet attached.
 

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This is the wrong forum for the 2005 Accord hybrid.. However...

Did you clear your old IMA fan code properly after installing the new fan?
If not it might still be there waiting to be read.

P0A7F is IMA battery deterioration IIRC so you have more than just a possible fan problem.
As your IMA battery is bad, it is shutting down the DC-DC so the 12v battery is not being charged, hence losing AC, steering and car stalling etc.
You need to fix the IMA battery, speak to Bumblebee batteries in the US.

Have you checked for things like blocked IMA inlet and outlet vents.
Mice make nests in weird places. If the code really has come back try and get a proper fan from a breakers yard.
Yes , I did clear the codes with the scanner, disconnecting the 12v battery for a few min. And then run the scanner again, there wasn't any code on the computer so I went for a test and after 10 min. Of driving the fan kick in at full blast like crazy loud 📢 after of driving for 45 min. The fan start slowing dying, stop and turn on again , hook the scanner and saw that the 12v wasn't being charge and the 2 codes come back.
I want to mention that I got a grid charger hook and went I use it the fan works at high speed.
I did check the grid connection to make sure everything is good .
Also I haven't check the entire duct from the battery to the fan but I did take off the fan and the 2 pieces on both sides inside the trunk there is not blockage because I can feel the air when the fan was working at full blast
Thank you for your reply
 

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I recently got a bad fan back from a UK CR-Z owner who had the P1448 fault.

This video shows good V bad fan bench test using a 12V current limited power supply.


Note the bad fan may not move at all in this test, and visual inspection might reveal clearly blown mosfets. (This fan did not have obvious visual mosfet damage)
Anyway after removing the pcb from the motor and testing the bad fan 6 x mosfets with a multimeter on basic continuity, it shows a blown (short circuit) mosfet that I have now removed.

You can buy them on e-bay for $5 for ten so it should be a case of simply soldering in a new one and off we go.
Note the solder on the PCB is high melting point. I had to turn my soldering iron upto 480C before it would melt properly. :eek:
Careful you don't mangle the pcb traces.

The NEC K3755/2SK3755 mosfet is a slightly narrow TO-220 insulated body type and I don't have any suitable in stock, so will order some and report back when fitted.
Might be a while on the slow boat from the far east. Note you could use any compatible pinout similar spec N Channel part.

Data sheet attached.
Really good info, I would like to know which MOSFET are you referring too and if you test the continuity with the MOSFET still soldered to the board?
Also is there any chance to have the fan jumped from the pins that you try permanently so the fan sis always running ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
You cant wire the fan to run permanently in the car as the computer checks the speed and will throw a fault.

The MOSFETs can be checked for basic continuity once the circuit pcb has been removed from motor. MOSFETs are attached to the silver heatsink.
 
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