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If failed some states the emissions warranty is longer than others. If you are in one of those states then dealer will replace for free or a small charge. See chart attached but make sure you pull the same information for your year. Mine is a 2013. Although with your time and mileage may not apply. I hope you have not been driving it with codes long enough to fall out of the warranty.
Do you have error codes? If you do make sure it is the CAT(S) (There are 2 of them) have failed. Many things other than the CAT(s) can cause errors.It can be an 02 sensor or other issues. You can do it yourself or have any shop replace it with one made for CR-Z(or even a universal), some states (CA) you cannot replace with used or one that is not CARB certified. Check your laws in your area. I will warn you they are expensive. Go look at RockAuto to get an idea.
There are lots of already existing threads on the Cats and the codes they can generate. I merged your thread in with one of them. Never just throw parts at a problem, you will spend a lot of money for no reason. Get codes, look up test and repair process for that code. Most expensive place to replace one (or both) is a dealer.
Many here have removed them and replaced with "test pipes" and used a tuner to turn off the codes. In many places the car will then fail visual inspection and or never be in ready for an inspection.
If you replace a bad cat(s)( or 02 sensor(s)) with good after you drive the car X Miles or or Y Starts the light will go off and car will go into ready when scanned.
Do you have error codes? If you do make sure it is the CAT(S) (There are 2 of them) have failed. Many things other than the CAT(s) can cause errors.It can be an 02 sensor or other issues. You can do it yourself or have any shop replace it with one made for CR-Z(or even a universal), some states (CA) you cannot replace with used or one that is not CARB certified. Check your laws in your area. I will warn you they are expensive. Go look at RockAuto to get an idea.
There are lots of already existing threads on the Cats and the codes they can generate. I merged your thread in with one of them. Never just throw parts at a problem, you will spend a lot of money for no reason. Get codes, look up test and repair process for that code. Most expensive place to replace one (or both) is a dealer.
Many here have removed them and replaced with "test pipes" and used a tuner to turn off the codes. In many places the car will then fail visual inspection and or never be in ready for an inspection.
If you replace a bad cat(s)( or 02 sensor(s)) with good after you drive the car X Miles or or Y Starts the light will go off and car will go into ready when scanned.
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