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You're not damaging the engine by driving it cold. Keep it below 4,000rpm and don't hit VTEC as Chaz stated.

From a technical standpoint, it's better to get in, start it up and drive as soon as possible. Idling the vehicle contributes to wear and stress, and idling to operating temperature (which would take at least 10 minutes to full operating temp, not just until the blue light goes off) is even worse. Plus it's a waste of a lot of fuel as the ECU dumps fuel through the engine onto the catalytic convertor to warm it up faster (cold catalytic convertor does nothing) and contributes to more pollution, automobiles pollute the most when started up cold.

In the Helm manual, when doing a coolant flush/bleed they used to state to hold the throttle open at 3,000 rpm to get the car to temp and the radiator fans to come on, because idling @750 rpm until the radiator fans come on (full operating temperature) would take far too long, increases wear and wastes fuel.

One thing to note is, when the blue light goes off, the vehicle is not actually at 'operating temperature'. Blue light goes off at 125F, but the thermostat doesn't even start opening until 169-176F. Fully open at 194F. Operating temperature is generally considered the 'heat-soaked' temperature, when the vehicle has to employ the water-cooling system as is designed. This is the temperature range the engine is in when at operating temperature.

Waiting to drive a cold car because of concerns of engine wear is one of the longest standing car myths. You'll save money (gas), time and help the environment by starting it up and driving it.
From this thread.
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