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Charged battery overnight, removed both leads for 1/2 hour and same results. Under dash fuses are fine. Battery is stock 9/15 with claimed 100 month life, reads 12.22 volts. I'm not seeing any similar posts to match this group of issues.
 

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Usually if you get that series of warnings and symptoms it is a failing or failed under hood battery. I do not care about the warranty or anything else. Have battery load tested.12.22 volts with no load is useless information. You want a test with it under load with car not running. Or it needs to go to a dealer. Any fuses blown? Why did you disconnect the battery? That does nothing.
 

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Yep, warranty means nothing and load tests are all that do matter. The disconnect was something that showed up here as a way to reset and remove some codes/warnings of some sort. Fuses under the dash for the horn are OK.

So hope it's just a battery, especially with only 20,000 miles on it.
 

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Is it the OEM battery with the Hygrometer eye? Since it is a 2015 and has not been driven a lot I presume the battery is shot. Time to replace it. If warranty then they should replace it under warranty. My beloved Speed Bump has a dealer installed Honda replacement battery that was installed 2 years after I bought it new under warranty. My 2013 has over 76K miles on it now and is driven more than the 30 minutes a month as has been mentioned 100s of times on this forum. It has been driven this way since purchase. But with pandemic and not driving it a lot now I fully expect within the next few years to actually have to purchase a replacement under hood battery and am planning to buy it a Harbor Freight smart charger when I have the money to do so since my garage has an outlet I can use. 4A Fully Automatic Microprocessor Controlled Battery Charger/Maintainer

All that disconnect does ( and I use to say do that too) is reset things like codes only temporarily and is a waste of time and loses data that might be useful for other issues. The car over time learns and calibrates many systems. Doing a reset loses all that information and in some states will make the car fail emissions if the car does not return to a ready state prior to the inspection.
 

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OK, thank you for all the information, I'm off to learn about batteries for the CRZ. It hasn't an eye, but the car was used so no warranty for us! Thanks for that link too, I'm going to give that a try.
 

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Many talk about cutting the tray and getting a bigger physical battery but I see no real need for it. This is hotly debated!

You did say you charged the battery, do you have a charger just an old school dumb one? I lost mine like that when I sold my Dad's house. His was a Sears Diehard charger.

Many have had under hood batteries fail in CR-Zs with low mileage and usage. It is not a good car to have it sit due to having no alternator and not charging the battery all the time it is being driven ( this too is hotly debated). 30 minute (continuous) drive a month is minimum for this car for health of the IMA battery and under hood battery.

I reread your title and that appears to be at least 3 circuits not just one. Please check all the fuses for those functions. It also brings to mind a blown or failed fusible link(s) for the battery which is part of the battery leads but if that was blown you would have no power from the battery and car would be on side of the road dead I believe.

OK, thank you for all the information, I'm off to learn about batteries for the CRZ. It hasn't an eye, but the car was used so no warranty for us! Thanks for that link too, I'm going to give that a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Many talk about cutting the tray and getting a bigger physical battery but I see no real need for it. This is hotly debated!

You did say you charged the battery, do you have a charger just an old school dumb one? I lost mine like that when I sold my Dad's house. His was a Sears Diehard charger.

Many have had under hood batteries fail in CR-Zs with low mileage and usage. It is not a good car to have it sit due to having no alternator and not charging the battery all the time it is being driven ( this too is hotly debated). 30 minute (continuous) drive a month is minimum for this car for health of the IMA battery and under hood battery.

I reread your title and that appears to be at least 3 circuits not just one. Please check all the fuses for those functions. It also brings to mind a blown or failed fusible link(s) for the battery which is part of the battery leads but if that was blown you would have no power from the battery and car would be on side of the road dead I believe.
I had a Sears charger that gave up the ghost! My newer charger has a start setting and a deep/maintain battery cycles. It's about 15 years old. I replaced the 12v battery to no effect. The horn, turn signals, brake lights, VSA and Hill Assist are each on their own circuits? I believe I checked each in the dark last night...... Is it possible a fuse on the battery positive post could be it? The red cap on the battery positive post fuse group does not want to be opened- are these the possible failed fusible links at the battery post you mentioned? I did clean up a ground beneath the battery tray. Also, the double tap to lock doors followed by a horn beep has stopped. The car is stock. I removed the dashcam 12v plug in too, Some have mentioned possible conflicts but it did not help. We do drive a few times a week, just not many high mileage trips, the lithium battery is 3/4+ on the meter.
 

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The link is in the wire not at the terminal. You have to replace the whole wire and car would not start if it was blown. It would disconnect the battery. The cap for the red terminal is sometimes a bit tricky to open as the plastic drys out as time goes on. If you replaced the battery and those circuits are still not working they maybe on the fuse box under the hood rather than under the dash. There are 2 fuse boxes. The under hood one has the relays too.

As you have a charger maintainer you do not need the harbor freight one I mentioned you have the functions it provides.

I had a Sears charger that gave up the ghost! My newer charger has a start setting and a deep/maintain battery cycles. It's about 15 years old. I replaced the 12v battery to no effect. The horn, turn signals, brake lights, VSA and Hill Assist are each on their own circuits? I believe I checked each in the dark last night...... Is it possible a fuse on the battery positive post could be it? The red cap on the battery positive post fuse group does not want to be opened- are these the possible failed fusible links at the battery post you mentioned? I did clean up a ground beneath the battery tray. Also, the double tap to lock doors followed by a horn beep has stopped. The car is stock. I removed the dashcam 12v plug in too, Some have mentioned possible conflicts but it did not help. We do drive a few times a week, just not many high mileage trips, the lithium battery is 3/4+ on the meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The link is in the wire not at the terminal. You have to replace the whole wire and car would not start if it was blown. It would disconnect the battery. The cap for the red terminal is sometimes a bit tricky to open as the plastic drys out as time goes on. If you replaced the battery and those circuits are still not working they maybe on the fuse box under the hood rather than under the dash. There are 2 fuse boxes. The under hood one has the relays too.

As you have a charger maintainer you do not need the harbor freight one I mentioned you have the functions it provides.
Thanks again. Since my symptoms yield no results as a group throughout this entire site I went outside of it and found something that may be of great use for others should it ever arise again (and maybe not)
 

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That is the fusible link and can be blown or corroded. It is not where I thought it was but it is part of the cable.

Thanks again. Since my symptoms yield no results as a group throughout this entire site I went outside of it and found something that may be of great use for others should it ever arise again (and maybe not)
 

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It's about 25º warmer today and the cap of the fusible came off to reveal an identical situation from the fist youtube Honda Fit video. The clear cap does not appear removable for the band aid fix mentioned in the video. I guess the entire block must be replaced? Does anyone have a part # for this? Here's a pic, how unusual not to see this crop up on the site before.

The part is 38210-TK6-003. I checked and that is correct for my 2015 base MT. Others may differ......
 

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The tab in the upper left of the clear cover looks like you can release it with a small screw driver. Shoved bewee tab loop and edge and a little pry.

It's about 25º warmer today and the cap of the fusible came off to reveal an identical situation from the fist youtube Honda Fit video. The clear cap does not appear removable for the band aid fix mentioned in the video. I guess the entire block must be replaced? Does anyone have a part # for this? Here's a pic, how unusual not to see this crop up on the site before.

The part is 38210-TK6-003. I checked and that is correct for my 2015 base MT. Others may differ......
 
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