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Doing this procedure will extend the time the battery is able to deliver a constant power and will also increase the maximum amount of instantaneous power it can deliver. .

If you go from 37.5 - 75% for instance the battery will last twice as long when climbing a hill.
Thanks again for the information! Then I understood it correct (but I probably explained it badly ;)). However, I didn’t know this process can will also increase the maximum amount of instantaneous power the IMA battery can deliver. Great process and well explained!
 

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The controller is very good at hiding the true health status of the battery under most conditions. 5 (or however many) bars is just a relative reading based on the current maximum allowable capacity.
To look "under the hood" and see what the battery is really doing requires either a Honda HDS (or a clone) or one of Peter's OBD C&C gadgets.
I went through this learning curve early on after I got my car last year, I now have both of the aforementioned devices. I also was fortunate in that my pack turned out to be in good shape and responded well to a capacity reset without the need for a grid charge.
 

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One thing to bear in mind is that the SOC indicator is not a linear representation of charge. 50% charge does not mean 50% of the bars are lit. It does a goes job of hiding that the battery is pretty close to the point that it will stop providing assist soon.
 

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The gauge since the TSB "update" has no relationship at all to actual State Of Charge. I think we all know this by now based on the excellent work by @PeterPerkins .

It can never hurt to do the processes you can that @PeterPerkins has mentioned. I have a LION car so grid charging is out for me.
 

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I don't know if mine has had the update, but observing with the C&C I did see a fairly consistent (although not perfectly linear) relationship between specific bars and charge ranges. So as long as my usable capacity stays the same I have a pretty good idea where the battery is. I guess the only way to know for sure is to check the numbers.
 

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I'm currently using a 60W 240V bulb for the discharging process and I'm starting to feel like I should have been using a 120v one. Although faintly, it does glow, but it's been 41 hours already and the pack is still reading 97V :)
 

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The bulb will be running at about a third of its rated output. If you have one, you could install a higher wattage incandescent 240V bulb, or wire additional 240V incandescent bulbs in parallel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 · (Edited)
The 240v 60w bulb keeps the current low which is best.
A slower discharge reactivates more dormant material. (y)

I don't really like using higher wattage bulbs or more current.
A 240V 60w bulb takes it's time but is a cheap reliable process.

In some cases cells will reverse during this discharging process so it's best to keep current low so the cells are not harmed.
 

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@PeterPerkins , in your write up you suggest the use of a 120V 60W bulb, which will draw significantly more power than a 240V 60W bulb on the Zs battery. I get that less is better, but surely there needs to be a balance drawn between slowly draining the battery and it taking forever? Even a 100W 240V bulb is still roughly half the power consumption of the suggested 60W 120V bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Oops that's my mistake then.
But slower is still better if you can spare the time.

I was probably being overcautious. ;)
I have amended my comments slightly.
 

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I'm currently using a 60W 240V bulb for the discharging process and I'm starting to feel like I should have been using a 120v one. Although faintly, it does glow, but it's been 41 hours already and the pack is still reading 97V :)
Yup I’ve used a 60W 240V bulb as well. Took me about 51hrs to discharge.
42hrs to slowly drop from 99.7V to 95V then reading starts to drop more rapidly.

Entire process took me 5 days.
At least my battery is significantly better after just 1 charge-discharge-charge.
Last checked my IMA usable capacity was 25%.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
To clarify. If you want to use a 120V 60w bulb for faster discharge you can........

But it does come with a slightly higher chance of negatively impacting reversed cells during discharge.
It's small risk and probably not very significant in the grand scheme of things when your pack needs attention.

I use 240V 60w bulbs as I am in the UK and that's what we have.
I also generally have time as packs are usually on the bench and can be left for days.

You can also use a fixed value 100w ceramic power resistor (200-300R) if you want.


I do prefer bulbs as you have a nice bright visual indicator that it is on and something is happening! ;)

Slower is better if you have the time as it allows more material in the cells to reactivate and is gentler on those cells that do mildy reverse.

Happy cycling.. (y)
 

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You can also use a fixed value 100w ceramic power resistor (200-300R) if you want.
I was going to ask if there was a way to just use a resistor for this process. I am still looking for a way to do similar for my LI-ION car but from your other postings that seems risky and not recommended.
 

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Aside from the potential safety risk of messing with the Li-ion pack I don't think there would be the same gains. NiMh chemistry can benefit from an occasional deeper than normal discharge, but Li-ion is different and can actually be damaged if discharged too deeply.
 

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At some point I may consider a reset using the HDS if i get money to afford one and a windows laptop to use with it. I currently have no laptop. Is there a stand alone device like an HDS that does not require a laptop? Another option is one of @PeterPerkins devices for monitoring, Manual control, and resetting just not charging. Still need to reread all of the postings and see what involved in installing one of those since it is not simply ODB2 connection.
 

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Other than another commercial scanner like the SnapOn Modus ($$$$) the only one I know of is Peter's C&C. But I don't know how well it plays with the Li-ion cars or if they can be reset the same way.
An HDS clone is about $100 so probably the cheapest option.
 

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and then I need a laptop which I have no need for and no money for. :(

But all of this is off topic but thank you for responding.
 

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Well it is possible to get a second-hand laptop for reasonable money. But that's another discussion, don't want to clutter up Peter's thread so I'll stop there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Just to be clear you cannot do the cycling process on Lithium to rejuvenate it so forget it.
It's a slow one way ticket to the battery morgue with Lithium from the moment they leave the factory.

So far I have been unable to reset the useable capacity in my stock Lithium car so it may not be doable in the same way as with Nimh ones,
or that HDS special functionality might require a connection to the Honda Servers like when doing key programming with the later car models.
It might really be dealer only... (I'm not convinced yet we shall see) I have not looked at it that deeply yet.
 

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For now I will just monitor your progress and drive the car as it is. I was considering a cloned HDS and associated used laptop but if even you can't reset the usable capacity then that would be a waste of my limited funds. Thank you!

Just to be clear you cannot do the cycling process on Lithium to rejuvenate it so forget it.
It's a slow one way ticket to the battery morgue with Lithium from the moment they leave the factory.

So far I have been unable to reset the useable capacity in my stock Lithium car so it may not be doable in the same way as with Nimh ones,
or that HDS special functionality might require a connection to the Honda Servers like when doing key programming with the later car models.
It might really be dealer only... (I'm not convinced yet we shall see) I have not looked at it that deeply yet.
 
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